Zenith, established in Le Locle, Switzerland, in 1865, has consistently been a significant force in Swiss watchmaking. For over 160 years, the brand has built a reputation grounded in a pioneering approach and an unwavering dedication to precision. Its history is marked by innovation, particularly its achievement as the first vertically integrated Swiss watch manufacture, meaning it develops and produces its movements entirely in-house. This capability paved the way for numerous horological advancements.
One of Zenith's most notable achievements is the El Primero calibre, introduced in 1969. This movement holds a landmark position in watchmaking history as the world's first integrated automatic chronograph calibre. It quickly became renowned not only for its automatic winding but also for its high-frequency operation, enabling greater precision in timekeeping and chronograph measurements. The El Primero has remained a cornerstone of Zenith's identity and technical prowess ever since its inception.
Courtesy of Zenith
The legacy of the El Primero extends beyond its initial groundbreaking features. Interestingly, the movement was conceived from the outset with the potential to accommodate additional complications, including triple calendar and moon phase functions. Evidence of this foresight exists in a series of 25 prototype watches created by
Zenith as early as 1970. These prototypes utilized the round case design of the classic A386 model, demonstrating the planned integration of these complex functions almost immediately after the El Primero's launch.
Building on this rich history, Zenith reintroduced the triple calendar complication to its modern lineup in early 2024 with the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar. This revival brought back the full calendar and moon phase displays within the framework of the Chronomaster collection, specifically using a compact and historically referential 38mm case size that echoes the proportions of the original 1969 A386 chronograph, a model highly regarded by enthusiasts.
Following the initial launch of steel versions, Zenith has now unveiled a new iteration of this sophisticated timepiece, crafted from precious metal. The Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar in 18-carat rose gold (Reference 18.3400.3610/21.C911) presents a striking combination of materials and colours, blending the warmth of rose gold with the deep, contrasting tones of a black dial and strap, offering a decidedly modern take on this historically significant design.
The case of this new model measures 38mm in diameter, a size that respects the vintage proportions of its A386 ancestor while remaining well-suited for contemporary wear. Crafted from solid 18-carat rose gold, the case features design elements directly inspired by the 1969 classic, including distinctly tapered lugs and traditional pump-style chronograph pushers. A raised, box-shaped sapphire crystal protects the dial, adding another vintage cue while providing modern scratch resistance. The case has a thickness of 14mm and a lug-to-lug measurement of 46mm, ensuring a balanced presence on the wrist. It offers a water resistance rating of 5 ATM (50 meters), suitable for everyday exposure but not for swimming.
Courtesy of Zenith
The dial is where the complexity and balance of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar truly shine. Presented in a sleek black finish, it serves as a dramatic backdrop for the rose gold elements. The layout skillfully integrates the complete calendar functions – day, date, and month – alongside the moon phase indication and the classic El Primero three-register chronograph display. This integration is designed for clarity and intuitive reading, despite the density of information presented.
Visually, the watch offers a compelling study in contrasts. The polished and brushed surfaces of the 18-carat rose gold case catch the light, providing a warm counterpoint to the matte and sunray finishes potentially found on the black dial. The sub-dials, rendered in a matching rose gold colour, stand out against the black background, ensuring the chronograph readings are easily distinguished. Faceted hour markers and hands, also rose gold-plated, add depth and reflect light, enhancing readability. The pump pushers and the defined shape of the lugs contribute to its character, bridging sporty functionality with refined materials.
Functionality is paramount on this dial. The day of the week and month are displayed via apertures positioned symmetrically above the chronograph counters, located near the 11 o'clock and 2 o'clock positions respectively. The date indication is found in the traditional El Primero placement at the 4:30 position. Completing the calendar functions, the moon phase display is cleverly integrated into the 60-minute chronograph counter situated at the 6 o'clock position.
The chronograph functions are represented by the three subdials: a 60-second counter at 3 o'clock and a 60-minute counter at 6 o'clock (which also houses the moonphase). A small seconds display resides at the 9 o'clock position. The central chronograph hand is notable for its high-speed sweep, directly linked to the movement's high frequency. To further aid visibility in various lighting conditions, the faceted hour markers and hands are coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1, a luminescent material.
Courtesy of Zenith
At the heart of this timepiece beats the El Primero 3610 automatic calibre. This movement is a modern evolution of the legendary high-frequency chronograph, representing over five decades of continuous development and mastery by Zenith. It operates at a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour (VpH), or 5 Hz. This high frequency is crucial for the watch's signature chronograph feature.
The 5 Hz frequency enables the El Primero 3610 to measure and display time intervals with remarkable precision – down to 1/10th of a second. This capability is visually expressed through the central chronograph hand, which, when activated, sweeps around the dial at high speed, completing a full rotation in just 10 seconds instead of the standard 60 seconds. The dial features a corresponding 1/10th of a second chapter ring around its periphery, allowing the user to precisely read the elapsed fraction of a second as indicated by the rapidly moving hand.
Beyond the chronograph, the movement seamlessly integrates the complete calendar and moon phase complications. The El Primero 3610 consists of 366 individual components, a testament to its complexity. Despite the addition of the calendar and moon phase mechanisms, the movement maintains an efficient power reserve of approximately 60 hours when fully wound. It also includes a stop-second mechanism, allowing the time to be set precisely.
Turning the watch over reveals a sapphire display case back, offering an unobstructed view of the intricate El Primero 3610 movement. The integrated architecture of the calibre is clearly visible, showcasing the sophisticated arrangement of levers, gears, and bridges. Notable elements include a blue column wheel, a key component in high-end chronographs that ensures smooth pusher operation, and an open-worked oscillating weight (rotor) featuring Zenith's signature five-pointed star motif. The rotor features satined finishing, adding to the visual appeal of the movement.
Courtesy of Zenith
To complement the warm tones of the rose gold case and the deep black dial, the watch is fitted with a black calfskin leather strap. This choice reinforces the colour contrast and adds a touch of classic style. The strap is secured with a folding clasp, also crafted from 18-carat rose gold, ensuring a secure and comfortable fit while matching the case material perfectly.
Zenith continues to solidify its position within the upper echelons of Swiss watchmaking through pieces like the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar. Its core collections, including the Chronomaster (focused on high-precision chronographs), the Defy (emphasizing technical innovation and avant-garde design), and the Pilot (celebrating the brand's historical ties to aviation), each cater to different facets of horological interest while upholding the brand's commitment to quality and in-house manufacturing.
The brand's dedication to precision is not just a marketing claim; it's historically documented. Zenith holds an unparalleled record of 2,333 chronometry prizes awarded throughout its history, underscoring a long-standing commitment to accuracy and reliability. This legacy is embodied not only in the El Primero but also in historical movements like the Calibre 135, which won a significant number of these awards and has seen modern reinterpretations.
Throughout its long history, Zenith timepieces have been associated with individuals who pushed boundaries and achieved remarkable feats. From accompanying Louis Blériot on the first flight across the English Channel to being worn by Felix Baumgartner during his record-setting stratospheric free-fall, the brand cultivates an image linked to daring endeavours. This spirit of adventure and achievement informs the design and engineering philosophy behind its modern watches.
The Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar in rose gold exemplifies the meticulous craftsmanship Zenith applies to its watches. The finishing on the 18-carat gold case, the precise execution of the complex dial layout, the intricate details of the hands and markers, and the careful decoration of the El Primero movement visible through the case back all speak to a high level of attention to detail and manufacturing skill.
Courtesy of Zenith
This particular model appeals to watch enthusiasts who appreciate a sophisticated combination of functionalities. It brings together a high-performance, high-frequency chronograph capable of measuring 1/10th of a second, the practicality of a complete calendar (day, date, month), the poetic complication of a moon phase display, and the luxurious appeal of a solid 18-carat rose gold case, all within a historically resonant and well-proportioned 38mm design.
The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar in 18-carat rose gold, reference number 18.3400.3610/21.C911, is priced at $26,300 USD (with corresponding prices of 25,400 CHF and 27,400 EUR). This timepiece is available for purchase through Zenith's official boutiques, its online e-commerce platform, and selected authorized Zenith retailers worldwide.
Case: Material 18-ct Rose gold; Diameter 38.00mm; Thickness 14mm; Lug to lug 46mm; Water resistance 5 ATM; Design inspired by 1969 A386 model with tapered lugs and pump-style pushers.
Movement: El Primero 3610 automatic; 366 components; Frequency 36,000 VpH (5 Hz); Power reserve approx. 60 hours; Column-wheel chronograph mechanism; Stop-second mechanism; Star-shaped oscillating weight with satined finishings.
Dial: Black with rose gold-coloured counters; Hour markers Rose gold-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1; Hands Rose gold-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1; Functions Hours/minutes/small seconds, 1/10th of a second chronograph (central 10s hand, 60-min counter, 60-sec counter), Complete Calendar (Day, Date, Month), Moonphase indication.
Strap: Black calfskin leather strap; Clasp 18-ct rose gold folding clasp.
Price: $26,300 USD / 25,400 CHF / 27,400 EUR.
Reference Number: 18.3400.3610/21.C911.
Notes: Automatic El Primero chronograph measures and displays 1/10th of a second via central hand making one turn in 10 seconds. Combines high-frequency chronograph with complete calendar and moonphase indications, recalling functions Zenith prototyped for the El Primero as early as 1970.