Vulcain Skindiver Nautique 38 Orange

Vintage Spirit Meets Modern Functionality

Words by: Hourstriker Staff
April 15, 2024
For those unfamiliar with the brand, Vulcain has a rich history deeply woven into the world of horology. Founded in 1858 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, by Achille Le Roy, the company quickly established itself for its innovative and high-quality timepieces. Le Roy partnered with his brother Alfred in 1880 and together they filed numerous patents throughout the following decades. However, the development that cemented Vulcain’s place in watchmaking history arrived in 1947. It was then that the brand unveiled the world’s first commercially available wrist alarm watch, the Cricket.

The Cricket’s innovative alarm mechanism, was a revelation. The resounding sound it produced was powerful enough to be heard in even the most rugged environments. This distinctive feature made the Cricket particularly popular among military personnel, doctors, and business professionals who relied on timely reminders. Throughout the 20th century, Vulcain continued to develop and refine the Cricket, establishing a loyal following among watch enthusiasts who appreciated both its functionality and sophisticated design.

Courtesy of Vulcain


Beyond the Cricket, Vulcain produced a diverse range of timepieces, including chronographs, dress watches, and sports watches. One such line was the Nautique collection, introduced in the 1960s. A time of exploration and discovery, the 1960s saw a surge in interest in scuba diving. Watch manufacturers responded by introducing a new breed of timepieces: dive watches. Built to withstand the pressures of underwater exploration, dive watches needed to be legible, functional, and above all, reliable.

The Vulcain Skindiver Nautique embodied these qualities. Like many of its contemporaries, the Skindiver Nautique featured a bold, easy-to-read dial with large luminous hour markers and hands. A unidirectional rotating bezel enabled divers to track elapsed dive time. The case was constructed from corrosion-resistant stainless steel and was water-resistant to a depth suitable for recreational diving.

While the original Skindiver Nautique was discontinued several decades ago, it left a lasting impression on vintage watch collectors. The simplicity, durability, and understated sophistication of the watch remain appealing today.

In 2023, Vulcain announced the revival of the Skindiver Nautique collection. The new Skindiver Nautique drew inspiration from the original 1960s model but incorporated modern features and upgrades. The collection quickly found favor among watch enthusiasts who appreciated the blend of vintage aesthetics with contemporary performance.

Hot on the heels of the successful 2023 launch, Vulcain unveiled a new addition to the Skindiver Nautique family at Geneva Watch Week 2024: the Skindiver Nautique 38 Orange. This eye-catching timepiece adheres to the core principles that define the Skindiver Nautique collection – legibility, functionality, and reliability – but introduces a striking orange dial that sets it apart from its siblings.

Courtesy of Vulcain


A watch collector taking the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique 38 Orange in would undoubtedly be drawn to its vibrant orange dial. The matte orange surface provides a striking backdrop for the large black hour markers and hands. These elements are coated with super luminous material, ensuring legibility in low-light conditions. A black minute track runs along the outer edge of the dial, providing precise time measurement.

The dial is protected by a double-domed sapphire crystal. This distinctive feature not only offers superior scratch resistance but also creates a subtle distortion effect, adding a touch of vintage charm. Framing the dial is a unidirectional rotating black ceramic bezel marked with a 60-minute scale, essential for divers to keep track of their immersion time.

Housed within a 38mm stainless-steel case with a vertically brushed finish, the Skindiver Nautique 38 Orange boasts a compact and ergonomic design. This smaller size harks back to the era of vintage dive watches when 38mm or even smaller cases were the norm. It's a refreshing departure from the trend of larger, sometimes oversized dive watches, and it will certainly appeal to those who prefer a more understated, classic aesthetic on the wrist.

The watch is equipped with a solid stainless-steel screw-down case back, ensuring water resistance up to 200 meters. This water resistance rating makes it suitable for recreational diving, snorkeling, and other water-based activities. Additionally, the screw-down crown ensures that the watch remains watertight even under pressure.

Courtesy of Vulcain


Powering the Skindiver Nautique 38 Orange is the reliable ETA 2824 automatic movement. This Swiss-made workhorse movement is known for its robustness, accuracy, and ease of maintenance. With a power reserve of 38 hours, the watch will keep ticking even when off the wrist for a day or two.

A black carbon-pattern leather strap with matching stitching complements the bold orange dial of the watch. This combination adds a touch of ruggedness and visual texture. The strap is fitted with a stainless-steel pin buckle, keeping things classic and uncomplicated.

At the core of the Skindiver Nautique beats the ETA 2824, a mechanical workhorse renowned for its unwavering reliability. This Swiss-made, self-winding movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz), ensuring smooth and precise timekeeping. Watch enthusiasts often favor the ETA 2824 for its robustness, ease of maintenance, and accuracy. With a 38-hour power reserve, you can slip the Skindiver Nautique off your wrist with the confidence it will still be ticking when your next adventure calls.

The vibrant orange dial, a hallmark of this Skindiver Nautique edition, deserves further attention. Its matte finish offers a unique interplay of light and color, softening the orange's intensity without dulling its impact. The large, black hour markers and hands are generously coated in Super-LumiNova, ensuring readability even in the depths of a nighttime dive. This purposeful design choice emphasizes the Skindiver Nautique's functionality as a true diver's tool.

The unidirectional rotating bezel, crafted from scratch-resistant black ceramic, is a crucial component of the watch's dive-ready functionality. Its crisp, 60-minute markings enable divers to track elapsed time underwater, a potentially life-saving feature. The unidirectional rotation ensures that accidental bumps won't overestimate dive time, erring on the side of safety.

Courtesy of Vulcain


The 38mm vertically brushed stainless steel case further demonstrates Vulcain's commitment to vintage-inspired design. This smaller case diameter harks back to a time when dive watches were primarily seen as functional instruments rather than oversized fashion statements. The vertical brushing adds subtle texture, catching the light and playing up the watch's compact proportions.

Upon closer inspection, one can't help but appreciate the thoughtful design considerations that underpin the Skindiver Nautique 38 Orange. The double-domed sapphire crystal not only offers superior scratch resistance but also introduces a subtle distortion effect at its edges, adding a charming vintage touch. The solid case back and screw-down crown ensure water resistance up to 200 meters, solidifying its position as a practical tool for divers and ocean lovers alike. Vulcain's choice of a solid case back stays true to its vintage inspirations and keeps things fuss-free for the movement within.

The Skindiver Nautique 38 Orange wouldn't be complete without a strap equal to the task. The black carbon-pattern leather strap boasts a ruggedness that complements the tool-like nature of the watch while offering a touch of textural appeal. A classic, stainless steel pin buckle secures the strap, a testament to simplicity and reliability. For those drawn to the watch but desiring a different strap aesthetic, swapping out the strap can personalize the Skindiver Nautique for a completely different feel.

Given its heritage-inspired design and robust construction, the Skindiver Nautique 38 Orange would resonate with watch enthusiasts of various backgrounds.

The Vintage Dive Watch Aficionado: For those enamored with the charm and history of mid-century dive watches, this Skindiver Nautique delivers. Its compact size, legible dial, and faithful vintage details will transport the wearer back to the golden age of underwater exploration.

The Recreational Diver: Whether a seasoned diver or a snorkeling hobbyist, the Skindiver Nautique is more than capable of handling aquatic adventures. Its water resistance rating, rotating bezel, and reliable movement make it practical as well as eye-catching.

Courtesy of Vulcain


The Bold Individualist: The Skindiver Nautique 38 Orange is not for those who shy away from attention. The vibrant orange dial demands to be noticed, making it a conversation starter for those who appreciate a watch with personality.

The addition of the Skindiver Nautique 38 Orange to Vulcain's repertoire is more than just the launch of a new model – it reinforces the brand's commitment to revitalizing its diving watch heritage.
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