Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication La Premiere

Vacheron Constantin, a name deeply etched in the annals of high watchmaking since 1755, has consistently demonstrated an unwavering commitment to pushing the boundaries of mechanical complexity and artistic expression. Their history is not just about telling time, but about mastering its measurement through intricate mechanisms, often reaching for the stars with complex astronomical displays. This relentless pursuit, guided by their enduring motto, "Do better if possible, and that is always possible," has culminated in a new Zenith of horological achievement: the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première.

The journey to the Solaria wasn't instantaneous; it represents the accumulation of 270 years of expertise. Vacheron Constantin's legacy in Grand Complications stretches back centuries. From their early calendar watches in the late 18th century to the legendary 1929 commission for King Fouad I of Egypt featuring 13 complications, the Maison has perpetually explored the intricate dance of gears and springs. In recent years, the Les Cabinotiers department, specializing in unique and bespoke creations, has produced marvels like the Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 (2017) and The Berkley Grand Complication (2024), each a testament to combining technical prowess with aesthetic distinction, particularly in the realm of astronomical functions.



Now, the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première emerges, not merely as another complex watch, but as the most complicated wristwatch ever created. This double-sided masterpiece, the result of eight intensive years of research and development by a single dedicated watchmaker, boasts an astounding 41 complications powered by 1521 individual components. It represents a leap forward in innovation, holding 13 patent applications, and stands as a remarkable example of complex miniaturization.

At the core of the Solaria beats the newly developed manufacture Calibre 3655. This manual-winding movement is an intricate universe unto itself, measuring 36mm in diameter and 10.96mm thick. Constructing a movement with such a density of functions presented immense challenges, chief among them being how to arrange 1521 parts logically and compactly. The solution involved designing the calibre in two primary connected sections: a base movement housing the timekeeping, chronograph, and chiming mechanisms, and an additional module dedicated entirely to the vast array of astronomical indications.

Connecting these two intricate sections required significant innovation. Vacheron Constantin developed and patented an ingenious "plug and play" mounting system. This system uses two precisely manufactured sapphire components that fit together perfectly, ensuring precise indexing and optimal energy transmission between the base movement and the astronomical module. This allows the entire astronomical module, including its associated dial elements and hands, to be removed as a single unit for servicing, providing access to the base movement without disrupting the complex astronomical assembly.

Recognizing that time itself can be measured in different ways, the Calibre 3655 was engineered to display three distinct temporal readings simultaneously, each driven by its own dedicated gear train. The primary display on the front dial adheres to civil time – the standard 24-hour day governed by International Atomic Time, shown by central hour and minute hands, along with world time and a second time zone.

The reverse side of the watch is dedicated to sidereal time. This astronomical time scale measures Earth's rotation relative to fixed stars, resulting in a day that is approximately four minutes shorter than a civil day (23 hours, 56 minutes, 4 seconds). Sidereal minutes are indicated on the periphery of the fixed sapphire caseback, while the hours are displayed on a rotating disc beneath it. This allows the wearer to track the movement of the celestial sphere.



The third gear train, the tropical gear, manages the nuances of solar time. Due to Earth's elliptical orbit and axial tilt, the length of a solar day (the time between the Sun reaching its highest point on consecutive days) varies. This difference between true solar time and mean civil time is known as the equation of time, which can range from -16 to +14 minutes. The Solaria displays this equation of time on the counter located at 6 o'clock on the front dial.

Where the Solaria truly distinguishes itself is in its five rare and innovative astronomical complications, four of which focus on the Sun's apparent journey across the sky. These are predominantly displayed on the front dial. The first, the Position of the Sun, uses a small yellow circle screen-printed on a rotating peripheral sapphire disc (just 0.18mm thick) to track the sun's position in the sky relative to the cardinal points, also showing sunrise/sunset times and day length.

Three further solar complications are grouped within the counter at 6 o'clock. The Height of the Sun above the horizon is indicated by a dedicated hand, measuring the angle (between 20° and 68°). The Culmination of the Sun indicates the precise moment the sun reaches its highest point in the sky (solar noon) for the observer's longitude. Lastly, the Declination of the Sun displays the angle between the Earth's equatorial plane and a line connecting the Earth and Sun, shown by a hand pointing towards a three-dimensional 18K gold representation of the Sun, illustrating the seasonal variation from -23.5° to +23.5°. This same counter also features a rotating disc showing the 13 astronomical Zodiac constellations, seasons, solstices, and equinoxes.

The fifth astronomical complication, debuting in the Solaria, represents a world premiere: Temporal tracking of celestial objects. Integrated with the split-seconds chronograph function on the reverse side of the watch, this allows the user to calculate the time remaining until a specific star or constellation reaches the center of their field of vision on the displayed sky chart. The mechanism involves stopping one chronograph hand at a reference marker and the other at the star's current position on the chart; a green triangle on a central rotating disc then indicates the elapsed time required. The technical development behind the pivoting chronograph tubes, designed to minimize vibrational impact on the balance wheel, is subject to a patent.



Beyond these groundbreaking solar and celestial tracking functions, the Solaria incorporates a comprehensive Gregorian perpetual calendar within the counter at 12 o'clock on the front dial. It displays the day, date, month, and leap year indication. Further enhancing its utility, it includes digital dating elements according to the ISO 8601 standard: the four-digit year, the week number (1-52) indicated by a green-tipped hand, and the day number (1-7) in an aperture.

At the 9 o'clock position on the front dial resides the astronomical Moon phase display, accurate for 122 years without correction, showing the age of the moon. Complementing this is a mareoscope, indicating tide levels and distinguishing between the stronger spring tides and weaker neap tides that occur twice monthly, governed by lunar and solar alignments.

Even standard timekeeping functions receive meticulous attention. Central hour and minute hands provide the primary time display. A counter at 3 o'clock shows a second time zone on a 24-hour scale with a day/night indicator. Integrated with this is a world time function, displaying 24 city names representing the time zones on a rotating disc. Adjusting the second time zone or city is achieved via a single corrector, ingeniously employing a differential mechanism instead of a traditional clutch to save space – another patented innovation.

One of the most significant technical hurdles was integrating a sophisticated chiming mechanism without adding excessive bulk. The Solaria features the most complex type: a Westminster carillon minute repeater with four hammers striking four gongs to replicate the famous melody. This mechanism alone accounts for seven of the 13 patents. Ensuring clear, resonant sound was paramount, as the density of components in such a complex watch can dampen vibrations.

Vacheron Constantin's engineers developed novel solutions. The gongs, featuring a rectangular cross-section for increased rigidity and sound amplification, are attached directly to the case middle. This design also prevents the gongs from colliding during operation. The hammers were redesigned to be more compact yet possess increased mass for a powerful strike with minimal rebound; forged from steel, three of the four incorporate 18K gold to enhance their moment of inertia. They are positioned in pairs on either side of the base plate to optimize space. A patented selector allows the wearer to choose between hearing only the hours chime or the full hours, quarters, and minutes sequence on demand.

The sheer density of function within the Solaria necessitated extreme miniaturization across the board. Fitting 1521 components into a wristwatch case measuring just 45mm in diameter and a remarkably slender 14.99mm thick is a testament to engineering brilliance. This required not only shrinking components but also developing new construction methods. Some sapphire discs used in the displays are only 0.18mm thick, while the rotating celestial disc on the back is a mere 0.3mm. Handling and assembling such delicate parts demands extraordinary skill.



The 18K white gold case itself was a collaborative effort between the movement's designer (who conceived the entire project) and a case designer. Given the intricate relationship between the movement architecture and the external housing, the watchmaker took the lead on the technical development of the case. The polished white gold form discreetly incorporates the necessary controls: eight recessed correctors for setting various functions, two push-buttons (likely for the chronograph), two selectors (perhaps for chime mode or other functions), and the traditional slider on the case flank to activate the minute repeater.

With 41 complications spread across two dials, ensuring legibility was a critical aesthetic challenge. On the front, a modern look is achieved through contrasting tones and finishes. The main dial plate has a black sunray satin finish with a circular satin edge. Counters are sandblasted. White gold indexes are rhodium-plated and satin-finished. A sophisticated interplay of white, black, and grey, achieved through sunburst, sandblasted, and circular satin finishes, creates depth and clarity. The counter at 6 o'clock features a detailed 5mm diameter rhodium-plated 18K gold Earth dome with polished continents and sandblasted oceans, alongside the polished 18K yellow gold half-sphere representing the Sun. The 270th-anniversary emblem is discreetly placed on the dial.

The reverse side maintains legibility despite its complexity. The fixed sapphire crystal caseback is metallized to display constellations, the celestial equator (white circle), the ecliptic (yellow circle), months, and a 60-second track. The rotating disc beneath, showing the celestial vault and sidereal hours, uses metallization in two grey shades. To maximize contrast against the star chart, the two split-seconds chronograph hands are crafted from lightweight aluminum alloy and lacquered in vivid green and red. These colors are echoed in the 72-hour power reserve indicator, cleverly positioned on the periphery of the movement itself, resembling an automotive gauge.

The finishing applied to each of the 1521 components is executed entirely by hand to the highest standards of Haute Horlogerie, a task made more complex by the extreme fineness of many parts. Nine distinct finishing techniques are employed to enhance the movement's architecture: Bevelling, Brouillage (a fine swirling pattern), Circling (circular graining), Graining, Mirror polishing, Matt polishing, Sandblasting, Satin polishing, and Sunray brushing. Examples include the mirror-polished minute repeater hammers, angled and polished bridges with various finishes, chamfered jewel sinks, circled wheels, a circular-grained main plate, and a sun-rayed barrel ratchet. This meticulous decoration transforms the highly technical Calibre 3655 into a visual spectacle.

Christian Selmoni, Vacheron Constantin's Style & Heritage Director, highlights the logical and compact arrangement of complications on a single base plate as key to achieving the watch's harmonious proportions and energy efficiency, evidenced by the 72-hour power reserve. He emphasizes the feat of miniaturization, especially concerning the Westminster chime components. Selmoni also underscores the watch's astronomical significance, noting the rarity of combining civil, solar (with equation of time), and sidereal time displays, alongside the detailed solar tracking functions and the unique temporal celestial tracking feature. He confirms that this entire complex project, unlike some previous grand complications involving teams, was spearheaded by a single, exceptionally skilled watchmaker.



The watch, reference 9600C/000G-231C, bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva certification. It is presented on a black technical calfskin leather strap with a textured effect, hand-stitched detailing, and a calfskin lining, secured by an 18K white gold folding buckle. It comes in a special Les Cabinotiers presentation box with a corrector pen for setting the calendar and astronomical functions.

As a "Pièce unique," the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première is, by definition, a one-of-a-kind creation. Engravings on the case back confirm its unique status alongside the 'Les Cabinotiers' designation and the 'AC' (Atelier Cabinotiers) hallmark. Its availability is limited to a single discerning collector, representing the pinnacle of Vacheron Constantin's bespoke watchmaking capabilities. The price for such an unparalleled creation remains undisclosed, as is typical for unique pieces of this magnitude.

Case: 18K white gold, 45 mm diameter, 14.99 mm thick. Transparent sapphire crystal case back with metallization for constellations.

Movement: Calibre 3655, developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin. Mechanical manual-winding, 36 mm diameter, 10.96 mm thick. Approximately 72 hours power reserve, 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour), 1521 components, 204 jewels.

Dial: Front: Metal, black-coloured sunray satin-finished with circular satin-finished edge, sandblasted counters, 18K white gold hour-markers, 18K white gold sandblasted hour/minute hands. Features rhodium-finished 18K 3N yellow gold Earth applique and 18K 3N yellow gold Sun sphere. Back: Grey-tinted sapphire crystal with celestial vault made by metallization, lacquered aluminum alloy chronograph hands.

Strap: Black technical calfskin leather strap with textured effect, calfskin leather inner shell, hand-stitched, folded edges. 18K white gold folding buckle.

Reference Number: 9600C/000G-231C

Notes: The most complicated wristwatch ever made with 41 complications, including 5 rare astronomical functions (one world premiere) and an innovative Westminster minute repeater. Result of 8 years development, 13 patent applications filed. Single-piece edition ("Pièce unique").