In the landscape of luxury watchmaking, there are innovators, there are pioneers, and then there is URWERK. With its latest marvel, the UR-Satellite UR-100,
Urwerk continues to push the boundaries of what's possible in watch design and functionality. This first part of our two-part series delves into the history of URWERK, the philosophy behind the UR-Satellite collection, and a visual embrace of the UR-100's design, setting the stage for a closer inspection of the watch’s intricate details in our next installment.
The URWERK saga began with a bold vision in 1997 when founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei decided to reinterpret the canvas of time with a fresh perspective. Their approach was not to simply tell time but to tell a story of time through avant-garde design and complex mechanics. URWERK’s timepieces are not for the faint-hearted collector; they are for the aficionado who appreciates the narrative of engineering excellence combined with a radical aesthetic.
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The UR-Satellite series, in particular, exemplifies URWERK's signature approach. It's a line where innovation meets imagination, and the UR-100 is a shining example of that ethos. With its satellite hour display, this watch doesn't just indicate time; it offers a cosmic exploration on your wrist.
Looking at the UR-Satellite UR-100, one is immediately struck by its distinctive appearance. Its 54-layer ThinPly carbon case is a nod to the aerospace industry, robust yet lightweight, ready for the rigors of space travel. The domed sapphire crystal canopy shelters a satellite hour display that appears to hover over the dial. The watch not only captures the essence of time but also encapsulates the vast expanse of space within its complex mechanisms.
The visual impact of the UR-100 is immediate. A watch collector would be drawn to the harmonious interplay of the striking red strap against the dark, textured carbon case. The contrast is bold, intentional, and visually arresting. The satellite display, a hallmark of URWERK’s design language, does not simply point to the time; it also journeys through space, charting the distance traveled by Earth in 20-minute increments.
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As Baumgartner notes, the universe is governed by three dimensions—time, rotation, and orbit—and the UR-100 is a physical representation of these dimensions. It doesn’t just measure time in the conventional sense; it seeks to give a sense of our movement through space. This conceptual depth is part of what makes URWERK watches more than timepieces; they are philosophical instruments.
The UR-100’s face is a complex tableau, balancing readability with an array of information that would intrigue any horological enthusiast. As the minute pointers on the hour satellites disappear, they transition to subsidiary dials, offering a new dimension of timekeeping: the astronomical distances covered by Earth's rotation and orbit.
This is where URWERK transcends the traditional watchmaking narrative. Instead of focusing solely on the micro-mechanics of time, it positions the wearer within the macro context of the solar system. It’s an ambitious concept, one that reflects Baumgartner’s sentiment that while we may attempt to measure and master the dimensions of our universe, the notion of SpaceTime remains an elusive enigma.
The UR-100 is not just an artistic statement; it is a technical one as well. The self-winding movement is regulated by URWERK’s Planetary Turbine Automatic System, the latest generation of turbines developed by the brand. This proprietary technology ensures that the watch is as precise as it is innovative.
In terms of design, the UR-100 is a visual symphony, playing with light, shadow, and form. The red textured rubber strap adds a tactile dimension to the experience, while the folding clasp ensures a secure and comfortable fit. The case dimensions are deliberately proportioned to make a statement on the wrist, yet they maintain a certain ergonomic grace.
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At the heart of the UR-100 lies the caliber UR 12.01, a self-winding mechanical movement that is the lifeblood of the watch. This isn't just any movement; it's regulated by URWERK's Planetary Turbine Automatic System, an engineering marvel that showcases the brand's commitment to pushing the boundaries of what's mechanically possible in watchmaking. The system ensures that the winding is efficient yet protected from overwinding, thanks to its air turbine compressors that control the rotor's movement.
The satellite hour display, a signature of the UR-Satellite series, is a complex ballet of beryllium-bronze Geneva crosses, an aluminum carousel, and triple baseplates made from ARCAP alloy, all choreographed to indicate time with precision. The movement's frequency and power reserve are meticulously calibrated to ensure that the watch not only performs with superb accuracy but also carries the aesthetic flair for which URWERK is renowned.
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The case of the UR-100, measuring 43mm in width by 51.73mm in length, with a thickness of 14.55mm, is constructed from black carbon, utilizing a 54-layer ThinPly method that provides robustness without the weight. The DLC-treated titanium caseback and sandblasted finishes give the watch a stealthy, modern appearance, while the sapphire crystals on the front and back reveal the intricate workings inside.
A striking feature of the UR-100 is its dial. The hours, placed on three rotating satellites with red arrow-tipped indicators, travel along a 120-degree arched track. This isn't just about reading the time; it's about witnessing the motion of time. The additional complication of the 8 planets and the time taken for sunlight to reach them is more than just a design feature; it's a functional representation of the light-speed journey through our solar system.
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The UR-100's strap is a vibrant red textured rubber, providing a comfortable fit and a bold contrast to the black carbon case. This choice of material is not just for aesthetics; it’s durable, sporty, and adds a sense of adventure to the watch. The strap is completed with a folding clasp that ensures the watch stays secure on the wrist of the wearer.
Finally, the UR-100's price tag of CHF 65,000 (excluding taxes) places it in a bracket where expectations are high, and rightfully so. This watch delivers on those expectations by offering a horological experience that is as much about the mastery of time as it is about the appreciation of our place in the universe.