URWERK, founded in 1997, quickly established itself as a disruptor in the traditionally conservative world of horology. Co-founders Felix Baumgartner, a master watchmaker, and Martin Frei, an artistic director, fused their distinct visions to create watches that are both technically impressive and visually arresting. They didn't set out to simply reinterpret existing complications; they aimed to redefine what a watch could be. Their workshop, producing a limited 200 watches annually, operates on the principle of merging traditional craftsmanship with avant-garde design. The name itself, URWERK, is a nod to both the ancient Sumerian city of Ur, where the concept of time was first defined, and the German word "werk," signifying creation and innovation. This blend of history and forward-thinking philosophy is at the core of URWERK's identity.
The UR-101 T-Rex is the third iteration in URWERK's "T-Rex" series, and it embodies the raw, visceral aesthetic that defines this line. The watch immediately grabs attention with its case, crafted from bronze that has been meticulously guilloched, oxidized, and brushed. This isn't the polished, refined bronze of a dress watch; it's a material that feels alive, almost organic. The guilloché pattern, typically confined to the dial and hidden under a sapphire crystal, is boldly exposed here, covering the bezel, sides, and even the lugs of the watch. It's a texture that demands to be touched, inviting interaction and promising to evolve over time.
Courtesy of URWERK
Martin Frei describes bronze as a "fabulous metal," emphasizing its reactive nature. It's a material that records its history, oxidizing with each scratch and developing a unique patina. This aging process isn't seen as a flaw but rather as a desirable characteristic, akin to the natural regeneration of skin. The bronze of the UR-101 T-Rex will darken with age, the brown hues becoming more pronounced, but it will never develop the green patina often associated with this metal. The engraved grooves of the guilloché pattern, as well as the lugs integrated into the back of the case, will also participate in this transformation, adding further depth and character to the watch.
The case shape itself is distinctive, a rounded design that evokes the futuristic lines of the Millennium Falcon. Measuring 41mm in diameter and 11.86mm thick at its highest point, the UR-101 T-Rex is designed for a comfortable and natural fit on the wrist. Its curvature allows it to nestle snugly, while the asymmetry of the case – slightly higher at 12 o'clock than at 7 o'clock – draws the eye towards the time display. A "spoiler" with a crown puller, a detail inspired by the very first UR-101, further enhances the watch's unique profile and makes it easier to adjust.
Courtesy of URWERK
The dial, or rather, the time display, is a signature
Urwerk creation – a wandering hours complication. This isn't the typical arrangement of hands sweeping across a dial; instead, two satellites rotate, displaying the hours as they pass over a 180-degree minute track. This "wandering hours" system is a hallmark of URWERK's technical ingenuity, a reinterpretation of a classic complication that feels both familiar and utterly new. The hours and minutes markers are generously coated with Super-LumiNova, ensuring legibility even in low-light conditions.
Powering this unique display is the UR-1.01V caliber, a self-winding movement developed in-house by URWERK. Felix Baumgartner recalls the challenges of creating this movement, particularly the task of making a carousel – almost 150 times heavier than traditional hands – move with consistent precision (isochronously). The solution involved a Maltese cross mechanism, a testament to URWERK's commitment to pushing the boundaries of horological engineering. This concept had been developing since the earlier days of URWERK. The movement, with its 28 jewels and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), boasts a 48-hour power reserve. The finishing, visible through the case back, includes snailing, sandblasting, satin-brushing, and chamfered screw heads – details that underscore URWERK's dedication to craftsmanship.
Courtesy of URWERK
The UR-101 T-Rex is presented on a black rubber strap with a black calfskin lining, secured by a black DLC-treated steel pin buckle. The strap complements the rugged aesthetic of the watch, providing a comfortable and secure fit. The choice of materials further reinforces the watch's tool-like character, emphasizing functionality and durability.
The materials used throughout the UR-101 T-Rex are carefully chosen to reflect the watch's unique character. Copper, brass, and ARCAP P40 (an alloy known for its high resistance to corrosion and magnetism) are used in the movement, while the case combines the hand-painted guilloché bronze with a black PVD-coated steel caseback and a steel and PEEK crown puller. This blend of traditional and modern materials underscores URWERK's commitment to both heritage and innovation.
Courtesy of URWERK
The design of the UR-101 T-Rex is a masterful fusion of seemingly disparate influences. The textured bronze case evokes the scales of a dinosaur, while the overall shape hints at the futuristic lines of a spaceship. The watch draws inspiration from 18th-century watchmaking traditions, yet it feels undeniably contemporary. This juxtaposition of elements is central to URWERK's style, a "mash-up" of ideas and aesthetics that results in a truly original creation. It's a watch that appeals to those who appreciate both technical complexity and artistic expression.
This guilloché with a geometric pattern first appeared in 2016 on the UR-105 T-Rex, followed a few years later by the UR-100 T-Rex: “It's a traditional guilloched dial pattern”, says Martin Frei. “We applied it to the entire surface of our case, right up to the edges. You can touch it. It has an animal, physical, almost visceral power.” The art of finishing – that sometimes overlooked facet of URWERK’s approach – is revealed here on a large scale.
This UR-101 T-Rex measures 41 mm in diameter and 11.86 mm thick at its highest point. Above and beyond the numbers, the way it feels when worn makes all the difference. Its curvature ensures sa natural fit, sitting snugly on the front of the wrist, finding a small niche in which to nestle between two bones. From there on, the asymmetry of the case is revealed, tilting slightly towards the gaze, higher at 12 o'clock than at 7 o'clock thanks to the addition of a ‘spoiler’ with a crown puller that facilitates handling of this creation. Inspired by the very first UR-101, this detail further accentuates its originality.
Courtesy of URWERK
The strength of the URWERK universe lies in the collision of imaginations. Between the world of Martin Frei and that of Felix Baumgartner, between the pop culture of their adulthood and the tales of their childhood, between a variety of cinematographic, historical and literary references, the URWERK concepts interpenetrate and coexist in a mash-up where cool meets underground. Alluding to dinosaur scales and the Millennium Falcon, to 18th- and 21st-century watchmaking – all viewed through the prism of the brand's 25-year existence to date – is the essence of URWERK style. A name that evokes Ur the Sumerian city; Urzeit as in prehistory; Uhr meaning time (and clock); as well as Werk, the movement.
The UR-101 T-Rex is a limited edition of just 100 pieces, adding to its exclusivity and desirability. The watch is priced at CHF 38,000 (Swiss Francs, excluding tax). The UR-101 T-Rex is for a select few, those with an appreciation for the extraordinary and a desire to wear a piece of horological art that truly stands apart.
Case: Hand-painted guilloché bronze. Black PVD-coated steel caseback. Steel and PEEK crown puller. 41 mm in diameter, 9.33 mm thick. Glareproofed, metallised sapphire crystal. Water resistance pressure-tested at 30m / 3ATM.
Movement: UR-1.01V, self-winding. 28 Jewels. Frequency of 28,800 v/h - 4 Hz. 48 hours power reserve. Materials include Copper, brass, ARCAP P40. Finishes are Snailing, sandblasting, satin-brushing. Chamfered screw heads.
Dial: Wandering hours on two satellites, minutes. Hours and minutes markers painted with Super-LumiNova®.
Strap: Black rubber with black calfskin lining. Pin buckle in Black DLC-treated steel.
Price: CHF 38,000 (Swiss francs// excl. tax)
Reference Number: UR-101 T-Rex
Notes: Limited edition of 100 pieces. Features a unique textured bronze case that will develop a patina over time. The "wandering hours" complication is a signature of URWERK.