Ulysse Nardin, an independent Swiss watch manufacturer with a history steeped in marine chronometry and innovation, consistently operates under the principle that established limits are merely starting points for exploration. The brand's relentless pursuit of transcending the conventional boundaries of watchmaking is vividly demonstrated in the latest addition to its esteemed Diver collection. The result of this ambitious endeavor is the Diver [AIR], a timepiece that redefines expectations by achieving the distinction of being the lightest mechanical dive watch ever produced. This creation stands as a testament to the fusion of high horology, advanced technology, and peak performance.
Founded in Le Locle, Switzerland, in 1846,
Ulysse Nardin initially built its formidable reputation on the creation of exceptionally precise marine chronometers. These instruments were indispensable tools for naval exploration and scientific expeditions, relied upon by navies and researchers worldwide for their accuracy in fields ranging from geodesy to astronomy. Over generations, the Nardin family cultivated a legacy of reliability and precision. This foundation paved the way for continuous innovation in chronometry, the development of sophisticated in-house movements, and pioneering research into advanced materials, earning the manufacturer over 4,300 technical and design accolades throughout its history.
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
Ulysse Nardin's history is punctuated by groundbreaking achievements. The manufacture introduced revolutionary timepieces such as the first chiming watch featuring Jacquemarts automatons, the intricate Astrolabium Galileo Galilei, and the first perpetual calendar adjustable both forwards and backwards via the crown. Notably, Ulysse Nardin was at the forefront of utilizing silicon in watchmaking components and developed DiamonSil®, a unique surface treatment enhancing durability and performance. The launch of the Freak in 2001, a watch devoid of traditional hands, dial, and crown, perfectly encapsulated the brand's audacious approach, blending high technology with exceptional craftsmanship – a legacy continued by the Freak [ONE], awarded the "Most Iconic Watch" prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève more than two decades later.
The journey towards the Diver [AIR] can be traced through recent milestones in Ulysse Nardin's Diver collection. In 2019, the standard Diver 44mm represented a robust, capable dive watch, weighing in at a substantial 120.5 grams, typical for its category. Two years later, in 2021, the brand unveiled the Diver X Skeleton, a revolutionary piece that merged the demanding requirements of a dive watch with the intricate art of skeletonization. This model managed to shave off 15 grams, weighing 105.8 grams. While impressive, achieving significant weight reduction in a skeletonized watch, where much material is already removed, highlighted the immense challenge involved.
The Diver [AIR], however, represents a quantum leap. It manages to shed an astounding 68.6 grams compared to the 2019 Diver 44mm and weighs less than half of the already lightened Diver X Skeleton. This seemingly improbable feat brings the total weight, including its strap, to a mere 52 grams (and under 46 grams for the watch head alone). This drastic reduction was not merely about cutting weight; it was about fundamentally rethinking the watch's architecture and materials while upholding Ulysse Nardin's standards for reliability and performance. The conceptual groundwork for this approach was laid with the Diver Net concept watch in 2020, which first explored integrating innovative, often recycled, materials through strategic partnerships.
At the heart of the Diver [AIR]'s featherweight construction lies the newly developed Calibre UN-374. Building upon the architecture of the Diver X Skeleton's UN-372 movement, the UN-374 underwent a complete redesign and reconceptualization focused squarely on mass reduction without compromising structural integrity or timekeeping precision. Ulysse Nardin's engineers meticulously removed material from the movement, achieving a final weight for the calibre alone of just 7 grams – less than half the weight of the UN-372. This was accomplished through extreme skeletonization, leaving slender bridges that are mere millimeters wide and further hollowed out.
To ensure robustness despite the minimal material, the designers employed a principle borrowed from engineering and architecture: the triangle. The remaining slender bridges were configured to form triangular structures, known for their inherent rigidity and resistance to bending or warping. This technique, honed by Ulysse Nardin over three decades of creating skeletonized watches, allows the highly openworked UN-374 (where the internal space is roughly 80% air and 20% movement material) to withstand significant impacts, rated up to an impressive 5,000 G-forces. Extensive testing, including thousands of shocks over several days and real-world trials, validated its resilience.
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
Further weight savings within the UN-374 were achieved by minimizing the automatic winding rotor to its essential components and reconfiguring the mainspring barrel into a "flying" arrangement, eliminating the need for a heavier top bridge. Even the barrel itself had material strategically removed. Beyond pure function, components were redesigned to achieve a harmonious visual balance, ensuring the intricate mechanics are as compelling aesthetically as they are technically proficient. The decision to retain the self-winding mechanism, despite the potential for further weight reduction with a manual-wind movement, was driven by the stringent ISO standards for dive watches, which often mandate automatic winding for reliability during dives.
The technical specifications of the Calibre UN-374 underscore its sophistication. It comprises 199 individual parts and 21 jewels, operating within a diameter of 34mm (equivalent to 14lignes). The movement beats at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour), providing a substantial power reserve of 90 hours, thanks in part to the efficiency of the innovative flying barrel design. Its functions are focused on the essentials: hours, minutes, and seconds, displayed via the skeletonized structure. Key components, including the oversized oscillator with nickel flyweights, the escapement wheel, anchor, and balance spring, are crafted from silicon, leveraging Ulysse Nardin's long-standing expertise with this lightweight, anti-magnetic material. Significantly, the silicon used for the escapement components is derived from upcycled silicon wafers, adding an element of sustainability to the high-tech construction.
Creating the world's lightest mechanical dive watch necessitated a revolution in material science, moving beyond conventional choices. While brass (density 8.7g/cm) is common for movements, it's relatively heavy. Aluminium (2.7g/cm) is lighter but lacks the required hardness. Titanium (4.5g/cm) presents an ideal balance, being roughly 45% stronger than steel yet significantly lighter. However, titanium is notoriously difficult and slow to machine, even posing a fire risk during the process, which explains its rarity in watch movements. Undeterred, Ulysse Nardin embraced this challenge, utilizing titanium for the main plate and bridges of the UN-374 – a first for the brand's movements. This choice was pivotal in achieving the calibre's record-low weight.
The commitment to advanced materials extends to the watch case. The 44mm case features a modular construction designed to optimize weight and strength. The central container housing the movement is crafted from titanium, ensuring the watch's 200-meter water resistance. This core structure is protected by side parts made from an innovative composite material called Nylo®-Foil. This unique blend consists of 60% Nylo® (a polyamide derived from recycled fishing nets) and 40% carbon fiber, resulting in a material even lighter than traditional carbon fiber while retaining exceptional durability.
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
The unidirectional rotating bezel, a critical component for any dive watch, also showcases material innovation. Its insert is forged from CarbonFoil, which is composed of 100% upcycled carbon fibers recovered from the high-performance hulls of IMOCA racing yachts. These fibers are chopped and compressed, creating a distinctive, marble-like pattern unique to each watch, under a protective domed sapphire crystal. This use of recycled and upcycled materials is not merely incidental; it is central to the Diver [AIR]'s identity and reflects Ulysse Nardin's commitment to exploring sustainable practices within high watchmaking.
This focus on next-generation materials was facilitated by what Ulysse Nardin terms an "innovative ecosystem." Rather than simply sourcing materials from standard suppliers, the brand actively partnered with specialized market leaders and agile start-ups. The 90% recycled titanium used in the movement and middle case was sourced through a collaboration involving TiFast, a leading titanium producer specializing in recycling biomedical-grade titanium, and Thyssenkrupp, a global materials and technology giant that processed the recycled titanium to optimize its properties for watchmaking.
The Nylo® component of the Nylo®-Foil side parts originates from recycled fishing nets supplied by Fil & Fab, a French start-up dedicated to marine waste recycling. The carbon fiber element comes from CDK Technologies, manufacturers of elite racing yachts, with the complex task of recycling these advanced composites back into usable fibers undertaken by Extracthive, a company specializing in the circular economy. Lavoisier Composites then processes these distinct recycled materials into the final Nylo®-Foil composite. Finally, the upcycled silicon wafers for the escapement components are provided by Sigatec, a specialist in silicon micro-fabrication. This collaborative network underscores a modern approach to haute horlogerie, integrating cutting-edge technology with environmental consciousness.
The performance credentials of the Diver [AIR] are as impressive as its construction. The headline figure is its weight: just 52 grams complete with its strap. This makes it comfortable and almost unnoticeable on the wrist, a stark contrast to traditional, often hefty, dive watches. Despite its lightness, it maintains a robust water resistance rating of 200 meters, suitable for serious recreational diving. At this depth, the sapphire crystal withstands pressure equivalent to approximately 170kg. Furthermore, its ability to resist impacts up to 5,000 Gs demonstrates that lightweight construction does not equate to fragility.
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
Visually, the Diver [AIR] is striking. The minimal skeleton dial puts the intricate architecture of the UN-374 calibre on full display. The dark, geometric forms of the titanium bridges contrast sharply with the open spaces, creating a sense of mechanical depth. Legibility, crucial for a dive watch, is ensured by prominent black hands and rhodium-finished indexes, both generously filled with white Super-LumiNova® for visibility in low-light conditions. The overall aesthetic is technical and modern, showcasing the advanced materials used.
The 44mm case, with a thickness of 14.76mm, presents a bold profile, but its multi-material construction adds layers of visual interest. The textures vary between the matte finish of the recycled titanium middle case, the unique fibrous pattern of the Nylo®-Foil side parts, and the marbled effect of the CarbonFoil bezel insert. The concave shape of the bezel adds another distinctive touch. The openworked philosophy extends from the movement through to the case design, creating a cohesive, high-tech appearance.
Completing the lightweight package are two specially engineered straps provided with the watch. Made from an elastic fabric, one in vibrant orange and the other in clean white, these straps weigh less than 6 grams each. They feature a practical scratch-closing system (akin to Velcro) for easy adjustment and secure fit. Designed specifically for the Diver [AIR], they are easily interchangeable without requiring any tools, enhancing the watch's versatility. For owners who prefer different options, the watch remains compatible with Ulysse Nardin's standard R-STRAP and rubber strap offerings.
The Diver [AIR] successfully embodies the three pillars Ulysse Nardin set out: High Horology, High Technology, and High Performance. It pushes the boundaries first explored by the Diver X Skeleton even further, achieving an unprecedented level of lightness through radical movement design and the integration of advanced, often recycled, materials sourced through a unique collaborative ecosystem. It stands as a physical manifestation of the Nardin family philosophy, perhaps best expressed by Paul-David Nardin in 1876: "If it’s possible, it’s done. If it’s impossible, it will be done."
Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
This watch caters to individuals who appreciate not only the intricate craftsmanship of fine watchmaking but also cutting-edge material science and a design ethos that challenges convention. It offers the robustness and functionality expected of a dive watch – 200m water resistance, a unidirectional bezel, excellent legibility – within a package that is astonishingly light and technically advanced. It is a conversation piece, showcasing recycled materials and complex engineering in a way that few other timepieces can match.
The Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR], reference 3743-170-2A/0A, represents a significant statement in the evolution of the sports watch. It demonstrates that high performance and extreme lightness are achievable in a mechanical dive watch through ingenuity and a willingness to explore unconventional materials and partnerships. Priced at $38,000 USD, it occupies a niche focused on technological prowess and avant-garde design, available through Ulysse Nardin's network of boutiques and authorized retailers.
Case: 44mm diameter, 14.76mm thickness. Modular construction with 90% recycled Titanium middle case, Nylo®-Foil (60% recycled fishing nets Nylo® / 40% upcycled carbon fibre) side parts, and CarbonFoil (100% upcycled carbon fibres) concave rotating bezel insert. Sapphire crystal. Water resistant to 200 meters. Total watch head weight 51.51g. Openworked design.
Movement: Caliber UN-374, self-winding manufacture skeleton movement. Diameter 34mm (14lignes), 199 parts, 21 jewels. Frequency 3 Hz (21,600 vph), 90-hour power reserve. Features oversized Silicon oscillator with nickel flyweights, upcycled Silicon escapement wheel, anchor, and balance spring. 90% recycled Titanium bridges and main plate. Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds. Total calibre weight 7g.
Dial: Minimal skeleton dial, black. Features black hands and rhodium-finish indexes filled with white Super-LumiNova®.
Strap: Two included interchangeable elastic fabric straps (Orange and White) with scratch closing, each weighing under 6 grams. Compatible with Ulysse Nardin R-STRAP and rubber straps.
Price: $38,000 USD
Reference Number: 3743-170-2A/0A
Notes: The lightest mechanical dive watch ever created at 52g including strap. Features extensive use of recycled and upcycled materials (titanium, fishing nets, carbon fibre, silicon). Engineered to withstand impacts of 5,000 G-forces.