Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Marquetry

Explore the Innovation of Silicon Artistry

Words by: Hourstriker Staff
January 19, 2024
In the horological universe where tradition often intertwines with technology, there stands a pillar of innovation that perpetually surges ahead, ushering in the future of watchmaking – Ulysse Nardin. The Swiss watchmaker, known for its precision and avant-garde approach, has once again demonstrated its prowess in marrying the artistry of the past with the foresight of tomorrow in the form of the Blast Free Wheel Marquetry. This timepiece is not just a watch; it's a statement – a testament to Ulysse Nardin's relentless pursuit of merging artistic craftsmanship with groundbreaking technology.

The heritage of Ulysse Nardin is as deep and vast as the oceans it has been associated with for over a century and a half. Founded in 1846 by its namesake, Ulysse Nardin, the brand has anchored its reputation on the precision of its marine chronometers, a crucial instrument for navigators at sea. The maison has, throughout its history, been a beacon of horological innovation, consistently pushing the boundaries of what is possible within the confines of a wristwatch.

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin


The Blast series, a relatively new entrant to the Ulysse Nardin family, carries the torch of this innovative spirit. It's a collection that speaks to the modern watch enthusiast, one who values both the mechanics of time and the statement it makes upon their wrist. The Blast collection, with its bold angles and complex geometries, encapsulates the energy of creation – a blast, if you will – in horological form.

As we delve into the specifics of the new Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Marquetry, one can't help but be enthralled by its visual impact. Presented at Geneva Watch Days 2023, this timepiece is a canvas where art meets mechanics in a symphony of blue. The watch's face, with its 103 radiant blue marquetry slivers of silicon, is not merely a dial; it's an artwork that captivates and challenges the onlooker to appreciate the fusion of traditional métiers d'art with the modernity of silicon.

The inclusion of silicon in watchmaking is a revolution that Ulysse Nardin pioneered in 2001 with the Freak. Silicon parts are lighter, more durable, and more resistant to temperature changes and magnetic fields than traditional materials, making them ideal for the precision required in high-end watchmaking. The Blast Free Wheel Marquetry isn't shy about showcasing its silicon escapement, a marvel of contemporary watch engineering that shines both literally and figuratively within its white gold case.

Measuring 45mm in diameter, the case is a satin-finished and polished white gold that gleams with a luster that only high-quality materials can provide. Its geometry is a testament to Ulysse Nardin's design language, which embraces both the boldness of contemporary aesthetics and the respect for traditional watchmaking forms. The sapphire crystal, known as an ultra-glass box in this instance, provides a clear and unobstructed view of the intricate movement within, visible from not just the top but also the sides, inviting admirers to a visual feast of horological mechanics.

The movement itself, the in-house UN-176 caliber, is a spectacle of its own. With 249 components, it boasts a 7-day power reserve, which for the layman, means the watch can run for an entire week without needing a wind. It's not just functional but also visually spectacular. The flying tourbillon, a component that counters the effects of gravity on the watch's accuracy, features the Ulysse Anchor Constant Escapement – another nod to Ulysse Nardin's maritime roots and commitment to precision.

The watch's aesthetic and functional elements converge seamlessly, much like the ocean's depth melds into the horizon – endless and awe-inspiring. The blue velvet effect waterproof rubber strap complements the blue tones of the dial, creating a cohesive narrative that is both a joy to behold and a privilege to experience on the wrist.

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin


Collectors and aficionados of fine watches will recognize the care and expertise that goes into the assembly of such a masterpiece. The artisans at Ulysse Nardin have outdone themselves, demonstrating incredible dexterity and precision in setting the tiny silicon plates into the dial. This isn't just craftsmanship; it's a performance of patience and skill, where each sliver of blue silicon is meticulously placed to form the marquetry masterpiece that is the watch's face.

The Blast Free Wheel Marquetry's back is not neglected either. For the first time, Ulysse Nardin has adorned the case back with a blue silicon plate, ensuring that every angle of the watch is an exhibition of the brand's dedication to excellence and innovation.

The very soul of the Blast Free Wheel Marquetry lies within its innovative caliber UN-176, an in-house movement meticulously assembled by the master watchmakers at Ulysse Nardin. This manual winding mechanism is a testament to the brand's commitment to autonomy in its creation process. Comprised of 249 individual components, each piece works in concert to produce a ballet of mechanical precision that is as much a pleasure to observe as it is a technical feat.

In a world that’s constantly racing against the clock, the 7-day power reserve of the UN-176 stands out as a remarkable feature. What this means is quite simple yet profound: once fully wound, the watch can operate for an entire week without the need for intervention. This is not just convenience; it’s a bold statement on efficiency and the expert engineering that allows for such an impressive reserve of energy.

At the heart of the UN-176's timekeeping prowess is the flying tourbillon, which includes the Ulysse Anchor Constant Escapement. This ingenious system, a brainchild of Ulysse Nardin's quest for perfecting the accuracy of their timepieces, provides a constant force to the escapement, regardless of the state of wind of the mainspring. This translates to a level of precision that few timepieces can claim, making the Blast Free Wheel a standout in a sea of luxury watches.

The escapement wheel, anchor, and balance spring are all fashioned from silicon. This isn't just a choice of material; it's a strategic decision. Silicon, with its anti-magnetic properties and resistance to changes in temperature, ensures that the watch’s accuracy is unaffected by the everyday elements that would typically influence a mechanical watch's performance.

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin


But what truly sets the Blast Free Wheel Marquetry apart is its audacious design – a visual spectacle that captures the gaze and sparks the imagination. The "métiers d’art" dial, a canvas of blue-toned silicon marquetry, comprises 103 pieces that come together in a harmonious pattern, reminiscent of the waves and the wind. These pieces are not merely placed; they are orchestrated by the artisans’ hands with precision that rivals the movement itself.

The geometric design that decorates the dial is not a mere aesthetic choice. It resonates with the symmetry and balance inherent in nature – a concept that Ulysse Nardin has mastered and interpreted through its maritime history. This natural elegance is encapsulated within the ultra-glass box sapphire crystal, offering an expansive view of the movement that seems to defy gravity. The components appear to float within the case, lending a sense of magic to the mechanics.

The attention to detail is relentless. The case back, often overlooked in many timepieces, is given equal importance in the Blast Free Wheel Marquetry. For the first time, Ulysse Nardin has embellished the case back with a blue silicon plate, ensuring that the artistry is not just a frontal affair but a 360-degree experience.

The housing of all these technical and artistic marvels is the 45 mm white gold case, its surface a mixture of satin-finished and polished areas, catching the light and the eye with every movement of the wrist. The height of the case stands at a proud 12 mm, a stature that gives the watch a significant presence without overwhelming the wrist.

Attached to the case is the blue velvet effect waterproof rubber strap, carefully chosen not just for its aesthetic appeal but also for its comfort and durability. It’s a strap that’s ready for the rigors of daily life while maintaining the luxury one expects from a high-end timepiece.

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin


The clasp, a deployant buckle fashioned from white gold, provides a secure and stylish method of fastening the watch. It's these touches, often unnoticed at first glance, that showcase Ulysse Nardin’s dedication to comfort and security in equal measure to design and performance.

The mesmerizing allure of the Blast Free Wheel Marquetry extends beyond its physical beauty. It represents a bridge between the rich heritage of Ulysse Nardin and the boundless potential of future innovations. It’s a watch that doesn’t just tell time; it tells a story of ambition, precision, and artistic expression.
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