The watch world is a fascinating blend of artistry, engineering, and heritage. It's a realm where timekeeping transcends mere functionality and becomes an expression of personal style, a connection to history, and sometimes, even a badge of honor.And within this world, few brands have mastered the art of blending rugged capability with refined design quite like Tudor.Their latest release, the Pelagos FXD GMT, is a testament to this mastery, a watch born from a collaboration with the French Naval Aviation that pushes the boundaries of both form and function.
Tudor has a long and storied history, often overshadowed by its more famous sibling, Rolex. Founded in 1926 by Hans Wilsdorf, the man behind Rolex,
Tudor was initially conceived as a way to offer high-quality watches at a more accessible price point.But over the decades, Tudor has carved its own distinct identity, becoming synonymous with robust tool watches that can withstand the harshest conditions.From the iconic Submariner, a favorite among divers and adventurers, to the sleek and stylish Black Bay, Tudor has consistently delivered timepieces that are as reliable as they are aesthetically pleasing.
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One of the most compelling chapters in Tudor's history is its enduring relationship with the French Navy, the Marine Nationale. This partnership, which began in the 1950s, has resulted in some of the most iconic and sought-after military watches ever produced.Tudor's divers, with their distinctive snowflake hands and oversized crown guards, became essential tools for the French Navy's underwater commandos, earning a reputation for their unparalleled durability and precision.This collaboration wasn't just about supplying watches; it was a true partnership where Tudor actively sought feedback from the divers to continually improve and refine their designs.
The Pelagos collection, first launched in 2012, represents the pinnacle of Tudor's diving watch expertise.Crafted from titanium, a lightweight and incredibly strong material, the Pelagos is built for extreme depths and demanding missions.Its sleek, minimalist design, characterized by its matte finish and lack of unnecessary embellishments, is a testament to its utilitarian purpose.The Pelagos is a watch that doesn't just tell time; it's a tool that empowers its wearer to explore the depths of the ocean with confidence.
In 2021, Tudor introduced a groundbreaking addition to the Pelagos family: the FXD.Developed in collaboration with a specialist unit of the French Navy, the FXD was designed with a specific set of requirements in mind.Its most distinctive feature is its fixed strap bars, a design choice that enhances the watch's robustness and security, making it ideal for the rigorous demands of underwater missions.The FXD also boasts a unique bezel, calibrated for underwater navigation, further solidifying its status as a purpose-built tool for professional divers.
Now, in 2024, Tudor is taking the Pelagos FXD to new heights, quite literally, with the introduction of the Pelagos FXD GMT. This latest iteration is specifically designed for the Aéronautique Navale, the French Naval Aviation, marking a significant expansion of Tudor's partnership with the French military.The Pelagos FXD GMT is not just a watch; it's a precision instrument engineered to meet the unique needs of aviators and flight support personnel.
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Imagine a watch that can effortlessly track time across three different time zones, a crucial capability for pilots operating in international airspace.The Pelagos FXD GMT does precisely that, with a dedicated 24-hour hand that allows the wearer to keep tabs on "Zulu time," the military term for Coordinated Universal Time (UTC).Zulu time is the standard time reference for all aviators, ensuring synchronized operations and precise navigation across the globe.The GMT function is seamlessly integrated into the watch's design, with a distinctive orange-tipped hand that provides clear and immediate legibility.
But the Pelagos FXD GMT is more than just a GMT watch. It retains all the core characteristics that have made the Pelagos line so successful.The 42mm case, crafted from grade 2 titanium, is both lightweight and incredibly robust, capable of withstanding the rigors of aerial missions.The fixed strap bars, a hallmark of the FXD platform, ensure a secure and comfortable fit, even during high-G maneuvers.And the watch's impressive 200-meter water resistance means it can handle any unexpected splashes or immersions.
The dial of the Pelagos FXD GMT is a masterpiece of legibility.The matte black surface provides a stark contrast to the beige hour markers and hands, ensuring optimal readability in all lighting conditions.The 24-hour bezel, crafted from titanium with a black ceramic insert, allows for quick and easy tracking of a second time zone.And the luminous material applied to the hands, hour markers, and bezel ensures that the time can be read at a glance, even in the dark confines of a cockpit.
Under the hood, the Pelagos FXD GMT is powered by the Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and produced by Tudor. This high-performance movement is COSC-certified, guaranteeing exceptional accuracy and precision.It also boasts an impressive 65-hour power reserve, ensuring that the watch will keep ticking even after being taken off the wrist for an extended period.
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Tudor's commitment to quality extends beyond the movement.The Pelagos FXD GMT has earned the prestigious METAS Master Chronometer certification, a rigorous testing process that goes beyond the standards of COSC.To achieve this certification, the watch must meet stringent criteria for precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness, and power reserve.This certification is a testament to Tudor's dedication to producing watches that are not just aesthetically pleasing but also technically exceptional.
The Pelagos FXD GMT comes equipped with a durable green fabric strap, featuring a titanium pin buckle and keeper.The strap is designed for comfort and security, with an extra removable keeper adorned with the French Naval Aviation roundel, a subtle nod to the watch's military heritage.This strap perfectly complements the watch's rugged aesthetic, making it equally at home in the cockpit or on the deck of an aircraft carrier.
The Pelagos FXD GMT is a watch that exudes purpose and capability from the moment you lay eyes on it. Its 42mm case, crafted from grade 2 titanium, strikes a perfect balance between wrist presence and wearability. Titanium is a material prized for its exceptional strength-to-weight ratio, making it ideal for a tool watch designed for demanding environments. It's also hypoallergenic and incredibly resistant to corrosion, ensuring that the watch will maintain its pristine appearance for years to come.
One of the defining features of the FXD platform, and carried over to the GMT, is the fixed strap bars. Unlike traditional spring bars, which can be prone to failure under extreme stress, the fixed bars are integrated directly into the case, creating an incredibly secure attachment point for the strap. This design choice not only enhances the watch's overall robustness but also contributes to its distinctive aesthetic.
The bezel of the Pelagos FXD GMT is another element that sets it apart. Crafted from titanium with a black ceramic insert, the bezel is bidirectional and calibrated for 24 hours. This allows the wearer to easily track a second time zone, a crucial function for pilots and frequent travelers. The bezel's knurled edge provides excellent grip, even with gloves on, ensuring that it can be easily manipulated in any situation.
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Beneath the sapphire crystal, the dial of the Pelagos FXD GMT is a masterclass in legibility. The matte black surface provides a perfect backdrop for the beige hour markers and hands, which are generously coated with luminous material for optimal visibility in low-light conditions. The square hour markers, a signature element of the Pelagos collection, are instantly recognizable and contribute to the watch's distinctive personality.
The GMT function is indicated by a dedicated 24-hour hand, tipped with a vibrant orange arrowhead. This hand makes one full rotation of the dial every 24 hours, allowing the wearer to track a second time zone in conjunction with the bezel. The orange tip provides a clear visual distinction from the hour and minute hands, ensuring that the GMT time can be read at a glance.
But the true heart of any mechanical watch lies in its movement, and the Pelagos FXD GMT is no exception.Powering this timepiece is the Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U, a self-winding movement entirely developed and produced by Tudor. This movement is a testament to Tudor's commitment to in-house manufacturing and its dedication to producing high-quality, reliable calibers.
The MT5652-U is a COSC-certified chronometer, meaning it has undergone rigorous testing by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute to ensure exceptional accuracy and precision. It also boasts an impressive 65-hour power reserve, allowing the watch to keep running for almost three days when not in use.
One of the most remarkable aspects of the MT5652-U is its robustness. It features a variable inertia balance, held in place by a sturdy traversing bridge, ensuring stability and shock resistance. The movement is also equipped with a non-magnetic silicon balance spring, making it impervious to the effects of magnetic fields, a common cause of timekeeping errors in mechanical watches.
Tudor's commitment to quality extends beyond the movement itself. The Pelagos FXD GMT has earned the prestigious METAS Master Chronometer certification, a testament to its exceptional performance and durability. To achieve this certification, the watch must pass a battery of tests that go above and beyond the standards of COSC, including tests for water resistance, magnetic resistance, and precision in various positions and temperatures.
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The Pelagos FXD GMT comes fitted with a comfortable and durable green fabric strap, secured by a titanium pin buckle. The strap features an extra keeper adorned with the French Naval Aviation roundel, a subtle nod to the watch's military heritage. The fabric strap is perfectly suited to the watch's rugged aesthetic and provides a comfortable and secure fit on the wrist.
With a retail price of $4,625, the Pelagos FXD GMT offers exceptional value for a watch of its caliber. It's a timepiece that seamlessly blends functionality, durability, and style, making it an ideal choice for adventurers, pilots, and anyone who appreciates a well-crafted tool watch.