TUDOR has expanded its popular Black Bay collection, introducing a notably larger model designated the Black Bay 68. This new iteration, available with either a striking "TUDOR Blue" or a classic silver dial, addresses a segment of the market seeking a more substantial case size within the iconic Black Bay design language. The launch signifies TUDOR's commitment to offering diverse sizing options, ensuring the Black Bay's appeal across a wider range of wrist preferences.
The name "Black Bay 68" serves as a direct nod to a significant year in TUDOR's design evolution. 1968 marked the conception of the distinctive angular hands, widely known as "Snowflake" hands, which would officially debut in the brand's catalogue the following year, 1969. These hands have since become an unmistakable hallmark of
Tudor dive watches, and their presence on this new model underscores the connection to the brand's rich heritage in underwater timekeeping instruments.
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While nodding to the past, the Black Bay 68 is firmly planted in the present, incorporating advanced watchmaking technology. A major highlight is its certification as a Master Chronometer by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS). This demanding certification speaks volumes about the watch's performance, particularly its precision and resistance to magnetic fields, setting it apart as a technically proficient modern timepiece.
TUDOR's decision to introduce a 43mm Black Bay might seem counter to recent industry inclinations towards smaller case diameters. However, the brand embraces this move, framing it as "thinking big" – a deliberate expansion to ensure the Black Bay family truly caters to every wrist size. This addition rounds out the collection, providing a robust option for those who prefer a larger watch with significant wrist presence.
The Black Bay line itself draws heavily from TUDOR's dive watch legacy dating back to the 1950s. It skillfully blends historical aesthetic cues, like the aforementioned Snowflake hands and the general case profile reminiscent of early TUDOR Submariners, with contemporary manufacturing standards. This neo-vintage approach results in watches that feel familiar yet perform to modern expectations of reliability and durability.
Delving into the specifics of the Black Bay 68, the case measures 43mm in diameter, crafted from stainless steel featuring a combination of polished and satin finishes. This interplay of finishes adds visual depth and highlights the case's lines. The case thickness is specified at 13.6mm, contributing to its substantial feel, while the lug width is a standard 22mm, offering compatibility with various strap options, though it comes fitted with a bespoke bracelet.
A key functional element for any dive-inspired watch is the bezel. The Black Bay 68 features a 60-minute unidirectional rotating bezel, also made from stainless steel. It incorporates a matte black aluminium insert marked with silver accents for the diving scale. The bezel's edge is designed for easy gripping, ensuring practical usability, while the subtly curved numerals align smoothly with the bezel's outer ring contour.
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Water resistance is a foundational characteristic, rated at 200 meters (660 feet). This capability is ensured partly by the stainless steel screw-down winding crown. The crown is thoughtfully designed, featuring the TUDOR rose emblem in relief and sitting flush against the case middle band, concealing the tube for a more integrated look reminiscent of historical TUDOR technical watch crowns.
Two dial options distinguish the initial Black Bay 68 offerings. The first is Reference M7943A1A0NU-0001, featuring a sun-brushed "TUDOR Blue" dial. This signature brand color provides a vibrant yet sophisticated look. The second, Reference M7943A1A0NU-0002, presents a sun-brushed silver dial, offering a brighter, more classic aesthetic. Both dials are gently domed and feature applied hour markers filled with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova for excellent low-light visibility. The sun-brushed finish on both dials creates a subtle radial pattern that catches light beautifully.
Protecting the dial is a domed sapphire crystal. Sapphire is chosen for its exceptional scratch resistance, ensuring the watch face remains clear and legible over time. The domed shape adds a vintage-inspired touch, contributing to the overall aesthetic derived from mid-century dive watches, while slightly magnifying the dial features depending on the viewing angle.
The hands are central to the Black Bay identity. The characteristic "Snowflake" hour hand provides instant recognition, paired with a straight minute hand and a "lollipop" seconds hand – another detail recalling early TUDOR dive models. Like the hour markers, the hands are generously treated with Swiss Super-LumiNova, ensuring legibility in dark conditions, a critical feature for any watch with diving heritage.
Powering the Black Bay 68 is the Manufacture Calibre MT5601-U. This self-winding mechanical movement features a bidirectional rotor system for efficient winding. It operates at a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) and contains 25 jewels. The movement displays central hour, minute, and seconds hands and includes a stop-seconds function for precise time setting. Its construction emphasizes robustness and precision.
Courtesy of Tudor
A significant attribute of the Calibre MT5601-U is its impressive power reserve, certified by METAS at 70 hours. This "weekend-proof" capability means the watch can be taken off on a Friday evening and will still be running accurately on Monday morning without needing to be wound, adding considerable convenience for the wearer.
The movement's architecture includes a variable inertia balance wheel, held in place by a sturdy traversing bridge with two-point anchoring – a design choice that enhances shock resistance and stability. It also incorporates a non-magnetic silicon balance spring, crucial for achieving the high level of anti-magnetism required for METAS certification and contributing to sustained accuracy over time.
Visually, the Calibre MT5601-U aligns with TUDOR's Manufacture Calibre aesthetic. Although hidden behind a solid case back, it features bridges and a mainplate with alternating sand-blasted and polished surfaces, along with laser decorations. The tungsten monobloc rotor is openworked and showcases laser radial grooving with sand-blasted details. The "Master Chronometer" designation is visible on the bridges, highlighting its certified performance.
The METAS Master Chronometer certification is a cornerstone feature of the Black Bay 68. This independent certification, governed by a Swiss federal body, goes beyond the standard COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute) certification. While COSC tests uncased movements for precision within -4 to +6 seconds per day, METAS tests the fully assembled watch, demanding stricter precision within a 0 to +5 second daily range.
Courtesy of Tudor
Furthermore, METAS certification guarantees performance under significant magnetic influence. The Black Bay 68, powered by the MT5601-U, is certified to function smoothly and maintain its accuracy even when exposed to magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss. This resistance is increasingly relevant in daily life due to the prevalence of electronic devices. The certification also independently verifies the claimed waterproofness and power reserve. Obtaining this certification requires meeting Swiss Made criteria and prior COSC certification of the movement.
TUDOR presents the Black Bay 68 on a newly designed 3-link stainless steel bracelet. A notable departure from other Black Bay models, this bracelet features smooth side flanks on the links, omitting the vintage-inspired simulated rivets. The entire bracelet has a satin-brushed finish, providing a tool-watch look consistent with the model's character. The taper from the lugs to the clasp is gradual, differing from the more pronounced "ladder-style" taper seen on some other Black Bay bracelets.
Comfort and convenience are addressed through the inclusion of the TUDOR "T-fit" rapid adjustment clasp. This system allows the wearer to make fine adjustments to the bracelet length without tools. It offers five positions across an 8mm adjustment window, enabling a perfect fit as wrist size fluctuates due to temperature or activity. The clasp mechanism incorporates ceramic ball bearings, ensuring a secure closure and providing satisfying tactile feedback during operation.
The introduction of the Black Bay 68 reinforces TUDOR's commitment to enhancing product quality and pushing technical boundaries. Achieving METAS certification for another model signals the brand's ambition, potentially hinting at a future where a larger portion, if not all, of the TUDOR collection meets this high standard. It serves as independent validation of the engineering and manufacturing capabilities housed within the TUDOR Manufacture.
Established with the vision of Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, TUDOR has historically focused on producing robust, reliable timepieces offering exceptional value. Created in 1946, Montres TUDOR SA aimed to provide watches with Rolex-level quality and dependability at a more accessible price. This philosophy continues today, with TUDOR leveraging its state-of-the-art manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland, completed in 2021, and its movement production facility, Kenissi, to ensure high standards and control over strategic components.
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Confidence in the product is backed by a comprehensive five-year transferable guarantee. This warranty requires no registration or periodic maintenance checks to remain valid, offering peace of mind to owners. TUDOR generally recommends servicing approximately every ten years, depending on usage patterns, reflecting the durability built into their timepieces.
The Black Bay 68 models, references M7943A1A0NU-0001 (Blue dial) and M7943A1A0NU-0002 (Silver dial), are positioned within the upper tier of the Black Bay line due to their size and advanced METAS-certified movement. Priced at $4,700 USD, they represent a compelling package of heritage-inspired design, robust construction, and cutting-edge chronometric performance. Availability is through TUDOR's network of authorized dealers worldwide.
Case: 43mm stainless steel case with polished and satin finishes. 13.6mm thickness, 22mm lug width. 60-minute unidirectional bezel in stainless steel with matte black aluminium insert. Domed sapphire crystal. Stainless steel screw-down crown with TUDOR rose in relief. Waterproof to 200m (660 ft).
Movement: Manufacture Calibre MT5601-U. Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system. COSC certified and METAS Master Chronometer certified. 70-hour power reserve. Features non-magnetic silicon balance spring, variable inertia balance, frequency of 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz), 25 jewels, stop-seconds function.
Dial: Sun-brushed TUDOR Blue (Ref M7943A1A0NU-0001) or Sun-brushed Silver (Ref M7943A1A0NU-0002). Domed profile with applied hour markers. Features characteristic "Snowflake" hands. Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® on hands and markers.
Strap: 3-link stainless steel bracelet with polished and satin finishes. Features smooth side flanks (rivet-less design). Includes TUDOR “T-fit” rapid adjustment clasp.
Price: $4,700
Reference Number: M7943A1A0NU-0001 (Blue Dial), M7943A1A0NU-0002 (Silver Dial)
Notes: Represents a larger 43mm addition to the Black Bay line, offering a size for every wrist. Pays homage to the 1968 conception of the Snowflake hand. Features high-standard METAS Master Chronometer certification, ensuring top-tier precision and magnetic resistance. Debuts a new rivet-less bracelet design with T-fit clasp.