Trilobe, a watchmaking brand established to challenge the conventional methods of time display, presents its latest additions to the Une Folle Journée collection: the Rhodium-plated editions. These new models continue the brand's tradition of innovative design, showcasing a unique approach to representing the passage of time. The Une Folle Journée, which translates to "A Crazy Day," is an apt descriptor for these timepieces, which reject standard hands in favor of a dynamic, visually arresting display.
The distinguishing feature of these new editions is the rhodium-plated finish applied to the bridges of the movement. Rhodium, a rare and precious metal belonging to the platinum group, is known for its bright, reflective quality and resistance to corrosion. This finish serves not merely an aesthetic purpose, but also functional. By enhancing the reflectivity of the movement's components, it draws the eye deeper into the watch's inner workings, highlighting the intricate architecture and the interplay of light and shadow. This is a watch designed to be observed, examined, and appreciated on multiple levels.
Courtesy of Trilobe
One of the most striking aspects of the Une Folle Journée Rhodium is the introduction of a new dial color – a distinctive green. The brand describes it as being neither overly traditional nor ostentatious, a description that captures its nuanced appeal. This green is not a static, flat color; it appears to shift and change with varying light conditions, reacting to reflections and lending an energetic, vibrant character to the timepiece. It's a color that adds an element of surprise and visual interest without sacrificing a sense of mature design.
The core design principle of the Une Folle Journée remains consistent across these new editions. Instead of traditional hands, the watch utilizes three rotating rings to indicate the hours, minutes, and seconds. These rings, elevated 10.2 mm above the base of the dial, create a sense of depth and dimension, giving the appearance that the timekeeping mechanism is floating within the case. A fixed pointer serves as the reference point for reading the time. The largest ring displays the hours, the middle ring the minutes, and the smallest ring the seconds. This unconventional arrangement challenges the user to engage with the watch in a new way, prompting a more deliberate and thoughtful interaction with the concept of time itself.
The construction of these rings is itself a feat of engineering. Each ring is composed of two parts: an outer cornice made of titanium, meticulously hollowed and polished, and an inner ring with a curved, satin finish. This inner ring is crafted from a titanium-aluminum-vanadium alloy, chosen for its lightweight strength. The assembly of these components requires a high degree of precision, underscoring the technical challenges involved in realizing Trilobe's vision.
Courtesy of Trilobe
The case of the Une Folle Journée Rhodium is crafted from grade 5 titanium, a material favored in high-performance applications for its exceptional strength-to-weight ratio. This titanium alloy is also known for being challenging to work with, requiring specialized tooling and techniques for shaping and polishing. The finished product, however, showcases a remarkable finish. The case features an interplay of mirror-polished and satin-brushed surfaces, adding another layer of visual complexity to the design.
Protecting the intricate dial and movement is a domed sapphire crystal, manufactured in Japan and then further refined in Switzerland. Sapphire crystal is prized for its hardness and scratch resistance, making it the ideal material for a watch designed to be worn and admired. This particular crystal has been fused by flame and treated with a multi-layered anti-reflective coating to ensure optimal clarity and legibility, allowing for an unobstructed view of the dial and movement.
Turning the watch over reveals a sapphire crystal caseback, offering a clear view of the X-Centric calibre, the heart of the Une Folle Journée. This automatic movement, designed and developed exclusively by Trilobe, is notable for its micro-rotor. The micro-rotor, significantly smaller than a traditional rotor, allows for a thinner movement profile – in this case, just 6.49 mm thick – while still providing efficient winding. The movement beats at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and offers a power reserve of 48 hours.
Courtesy of Trilobe
The X-Centric calibre is meticulously finished. The bridges and plates, arranged in a multi-tiered configuration, feature sharp edges that have been carefully polished by hand or with diamond tools. This polishing contrasts beautifully with the microblasted treatment applied to the flat surfaces of the components, highlighting the three-dimensional architecture of the movement. The movement comprises 196 custom-made components, a testament to the complexity and craftsmanship involved.
The rhodium plating, visible through the case back and dial, lends a cool, almost ethereal quality to the movement. The reflective surfaces catch and play with light, emphasizing the intricate details of the mechanism. The open dial further enhances this visibility, providing an unobstructed view of the movement's architecture. It's a deliberate design choice that underscores the brand's commitment to showcasing the inner beauty of its watches.
The technical specifications of the Une Folle Journée Rhodium editions emphasize the meticulous engineering behind its design. The watch features 33 functional rubies, minimizing friction within the movement and ensuring long-term performance. The display, a patented concept, utilizes three distinct devices for hours, minutes, and seconds. The titanium rings that display the time are colorized through a DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) coating process, which provides durability and enhances the color's vibrancy. The numerals on the rings are pad-printed for crisp legibility.
Courtesy of Trilobe
The functionality of the watch, while unconventional, is straightforward. The rotating rings, combined with the fixed pointer, allow for a clear reading of the hours, minutes, and seconds. This unique display mechanism differentiates the Une Folle Journée from traditional timepieces, offering a fresh perspective on the presentation of time. It is a deliberate move away from the conventional, prompting a more engaging interaction with the watch.
The case dimensions further contribute to the watch's distinctive presence. With a diameter of 40.5 mm and a total thickness of 17.8 mm (including the dome), the watch has substantial wrist presence. The dome itself is a significant 10.2 mm in height, contributing to the overall visual impact of the watch. Despite its size, the use of titanium ensures that the watch remains relatively lightweight and comfortable to wear. The lug-to-lug distance of 48 mm and lug width of 20 mm provide further insight into the watch's proportions and how it will sit on the wrist.
The water resistance of the Une Folle Journée Rhodium is rated at 5 bar, approximately equivalent to 50 meters. While not intended for deep-sea diving, this level of water resistance provides protection against accidental splashes and brief immersion in water, ensuring the watch can withstand everyday use. The crown, a push-button design, contributes to the watch's overall streamlined aesthetic.
Each Une Folle Journée Rhodium edition is paired with a leather strap, secured by a pin buckle. The choice of leather adds a touch of traditional watchmaking to the otherwise contemporary design, providing a comfortable and secure fit. The strap material and color complement the overall aesthetic of the watch, enhancing its visual appeal.
Courtesy of Trilobe
The Une Folle Journée Rhodium collection includes three distinct variations, each differentiated by the color of the dial and rings: blue, black, and the newly introduced green. These color options provide versatility and allow collectors to choose the version that best suits their personal style. Each version carries the same technical specifications and design features, with the color being the primary point of differentiation.
The brand's philosophy is evident in the design and execution of these watches.
Trilobe aims to break free from established conventions, offering a timepiece that is both technically sophisticated and visually striking. The unconventional display, with its rotating rings, challenges the traditional norms of watchmaking, offering a fresh and engaging way to experience time. The Trilobe Une Folle Journée Rhodium editions are priced at 20,400 Euros excluding tax.
Case: Grade 5 titanium. Mirror-polished surfaces alternating with satin-brushed treatments. Domed bezel with sapphire crystal and multi-layered anti-reflective treatment (ARDUR) - 1.2 mm thickness. Anti-reflective sapphire back. Push button crown. Water-resistance tested to 5 bar (˜ 50 meters). Thickness: 17.8 mm, Dome height: 10.2 mm, Diameter: 40.5 mm, Lug to lug: 48 mm, Lug width: 20 mm.
Movement: X-Centric calibre. Self-winding integrated mechanical calibre with micro-rotor. 48 hours of power reserve. Balance frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz). Functional rubies: 33. Total components: 196. Bridges plated with rhodium. Thickness: 6.49 mm, Diameter: 35.2 mm.
Dial: Hours, minutes, seconds subdial displayed by rotating rings and a fixed pointer. Titanium rings colorized through DLC coating (Diamond-Like Carbon). Pad-printed numerals. Open dial design.
Strap: Leather with a pin buckle.
Price: 20,400€ exc. tax
Reference Number: Blue (40.5 mm) UFJ01BR, Green (40.5 mm) UFJ01VR, Black (40.5 mm) UFJ01NR
Notes: Features a patented display concept composed of three devices representing the hours, minutes and seconds. The bridges of the movement feature a rhodium-plated finish. A new green dial color is offered in the collection.