The horological world often feels awash with timepieces that prioritize heritage over innovation, tradition over audacity. It is in this landscape that Trilobe, a relatively young Maison founded in Paris in 2018, has carved a distinct niche for itself, reimagining the very language of watchmaking. With its latest offering, the Les Matinaux L'Heure Exquise Dune,
Trilobe pushes the boundaries of both mechanical ingenuity and poetic expression, crafting a watch that is as much a philosophical statement as it is a timekeeping instrument.
From its inception, Trilobe has distinguished itself by challenging the conventional norms of watch design. The Maison's name itself, "Trilobe," references the three-lobed architectural motif found in various cultures throughout history, a symbol of harmony and balance. This motif is woven into the very DNA of Trilobe's watches, manifesting in the unique configuration of three rotating rings that indicate the hours, minutes, and seconds.
Courtesy of Trilobe
The Les Matinaux collection, launched in 2020, marked a significant milestone for Trilobe. It was the Maison's first foray into the world of automatic movements, introducing a proprietary caliber developed in collaboration with the renowned movement maker Chronode. This collection also established a design language that would become synonymous with Trilobe: the clean lines, the minimalist aesthetic, the emphasis on the three rotating rings, and the absence of traditional hands.
The L'Heure Exquise Dune represents a further evolution of this design language, incorporating a moon phase complication into the already intricate dance of the rotating rings. The moon phase, a beloved horological complication with a long and storied history, is given a decidedly modern interpretation by Trilobe. Instead of the traditional aperture revealing a portion of the moon, Trilobe has opted for a more dynamic display. A starry sapphire crystal, adorned with a delicate pattern of stars, rotates in harmony with the seconds ring, revealing a crescent moon that waxes and wanes over the course of a lunar cycle.
The dial, a symphony of textures and finishes, is a testament to Trilobe's commitment to craftsmanship and attention to detail. The sandblasted surface, reminiscent of the rolling dunes of a desert landscape, provides a subtle backdrop for the intricate ballet of the rotating rings. The moon phase display, nestled within a polished and satin-finished flange, adds a touch of celestial elegance to the watch's overall aesthetic. The hour and minute numerals, rendered in a clean and modern typeface, are printed directly onto the rotating rings, further emphasizing the watch's unconventional approach to timekeeping.
Courtesy of Trilobe
The case, available in either grade 5 titanium or 18k rose gold, is a study in understated luxury. The combination of mirror-polished and satin-brushed surfaces creates a play of light and shadow that accentuates the watch's sculptural form. The domed bezel, crafted from sapphire crystal with a multi-layered anti-reflective treatment, adds a touch of vintage charm while ensuring optimal legibility. The caseback, also made of sapphire crystal, offers a glimpse into the intricate workings of the X-Centric caliber, a movement that was specifically designed for this collection.
The Les Matinaux L'Heure Exquise Dune is a watch that rewards close inspection. The dial, a captivating canvas of celestial artistry, is where Trilobe's horological ingenuity truly shines. The rotating rings, a hallmark of Trilobe's design language, perform a mesmerizing ballet, defying the conventional notions of timekeeping. The largest ring, representing the hours, makes a full rotation every 12 hours. The middle ring, indicating the minutes, completes a revolution every 60 minutes. And the smallest ring, a sapphire crystal adorned with a constellation of stars, sweeps across the dial every 60 seconds.
Courtesy of Trilobe
The numerals on the hour and minute rings are not merely functional markers; they are integral elements of the watch's aesthetic vocabulary. The slight tilt of the numerals, a subtle yet impactful detail, accentuates the movement of the rings, creating a visual representation of time's inexorable flow. The single trilobe, serving as a fixed reference point for both the hours and minutes, adds a touch of whimsy to the dial's otherwise minimalist design.
The moon phase complication, a poetic addition to the Les Matinaux collection, is a testament to Trilobe's commitment to innovation. The rotating starry sapphire crystal, powered by the watch's automatic movement, reveals a crescent moon that waxes and wanes in sync with the lunar cycle. The moon itself, a delicate disc crafted from blue-azured brass, is laser-textured to create a realistic representation of its cratered surface.
The X-Centric caliber, a self-winding movement developed exclusively for Trilobe, is the beating heart of the L'Heure Exquise Dune. This micro-rotor movement, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, is a marvel of mechanical engineering. The bridges, plated with black gold, create a striking contrast against the rhodium-plated mainplate. The oscillating weight, crafted from tungsten, ensures efficient winding while maintaining a slim profile.
Courtesy of Trilobe
The case of the L'Heure Exquise Dune is available in two distinct variations: grade 5 titanium and 18k rose gold. Both options exude a quiet confidence, eschewing ostentation in favor of understated elegance. The titanium case, with its matte finish, offers a contemporary look and feel, while the rose gold case, with its warm glow, adds a touch of classic luxury. The case dimensions, with a diameter of 40.5mm and a thickness of 9.2mm, strike a balance between wrist presence and wearability, making the watch suitable for both men and women.
The strap, crafted from brown alligator leather, complements the watch's refined aesthetic. The pin buckle, echoing the case material, ensures a secure and comfortable fit. The attention to detail extends even to the underside of the strap, where the Trilobe logo is subtly embossed, a testament to the Maison's unwavering commitment to quality.
The Les Matinaux L'Heure Exquise Dune, priced at $14,400 USD excluding taxes, is more than just a watch; it is a wearable work of art, a testament to Trilobe's unique vision and unwavering pursuit of horological excellence. It is a watch that invites us to slow down, to appreciate the beauty of mechanical complexity, to reconnect with the natural rhythms of the cosmos.
Courtesy of Trilobe
The moon phase, a celestial complication that has fascinated watchmakers and enthusiasts for centuries, is given a fresh and innovative interpretation by Trilobe. The rotating starry sapphire crystal, with its delicate constellation of stars, adds a touch of magic to the watch's already captivating dial. The moon itself, a laser-textured disc crafted from blue-azured brass, is a miniature masterpiece of craftsmanship.
The Les Matinaux L'Heure Exquise Dune is not merely a timekeeping instrument; it is a conversation starter, a statement piece, a reflection of its wearer's discerning taste and appreciation for the finer things in life. It is a watch that transcends trends and fads, a watch that will be cherished for generations to come. It is, in essence, a testament to the enduring power of human creativity and the timeless allure of horological artistry.