Let's talk about a watch that's making waves in the horological world, not for being some ostentatious display of wealth, but for its sheer charm and ingenuity. We're diving deep into the Studio Underd0g x Fears collaboration, a timepiece they've aptly named "The Gimlet." This isn't your typical watch release; it's a celebration of British watchmaking, blending the old with the new in a way that's both refreshing and respectful of tradition.
Now, picture this: two British watch companies, one with roots stretching back to 1846 and the other a fresh-faced newcomer, decide to join forces. That's exactly what Fears, one of Britain's oldest watch companies, and Studio Underd0g, a young brand making a name for itself with bold designs, have done. The result? A watch that feels as fresh as a newly poured Gimlet, a popular cocktail, but with a nod to the past that's impossible to ignore. This collaboration brings together 175 years of watchmaking history, representing a bridge between the heritage of Fears and the innovative spirit of Studio Underd0g. It's a meeting of minds that's resulted in something truly special, a watch that speaks to both the seasoned collector and the newcomer to the world of horology.
Courtesy of Studio Underd0g
Fears, established in 1846 by Edwin Fear in Bristol, carries with it a legacy of British watchmaking excellence. The company thrived for 130 years before closing its doors in 1976. However, in 2016, the great-great-great-grandson of Edwin Fear, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, resurrected the brand, bringing it back to its historical home in Bristol. Today, Fears continues to honor its heritage by designing watches in Bristol and assembling them by hand in Britain, a testament to its commitment to quality and craftsmanship.
Studio Underd0g, on the other hand, represents the new wave of British watchmaking. Known for their playful designs and vibrant color palettes, Studio Underd0g has quickly made a name for itself in the watch community. Their approach to watchmaking is characterized by a willingness to experiment and push boundaries, making them the perfect partner for a collaboration that seeks to blend tradition with innovation.
The Gimlet's design is a masterclass in subtlety and detail. The pale green gradient dial is a standout feature, achieved through modern machining techniques and materials. This isn't just a simple green dial; it's a complex creation that plays with light and shadow in a way that's simply captivating. The dial is composed of a base layer featuring seven coats of custom-made Super-LumiNova pigment. This meticulous layering process is time-consuming, as each layer must dry completely before the next is applied. Atop this luminous base sits a 1mm thick sapphire disc, adorned with the co-branding of Fears and Studio Underd0g, along with a minute track and Arabic numerals.
Courtesy of Studio Underd0g
When these two elements are combined, affixed together with two slotted head pins, they create a dial with a remarkable sense of depth, reminiscent of the cocktail it's named after. In daylight, the printed details appear to float above the base dial, casting subtle shadows that shift as the watch moves. This creates a dynamic visual effect that's constantly changing, depending on the angle of the light. In the dark, the Super-LumiNova base dial illuminates the printing details, making them appear as if they're floating in space. It's a mesmerizing effect that sets The Gimlet apart from other watches.
The Gimlet is housed in a 38mm Brunswick case, a size that strikes a nice balance between presence and wearability. With a width of 12mm, a lug-to-lug measurement of 43.5mm, and a lug width of 20mm, the watch sits comfortably on the wrist. The case is constructed from 316L stainless steel, known for its durability and corrosion resistance, and features a two-part construction. It's water-resistant up to 10 ATM, making it suitable for everyday wear.
Powering The Gimlet is the Sellita SW210-1, a manual winding Swiss movement known for its reliability. This movement boasts a 42-hour power reserve and an accuracy of -7/+7 seconds per day. It's a fitting choice for a watch that celebrates both heritage and innovation, providing a reliable and precise timekeeping experience. The choice of a manual wind movement also adds a tactile element to the watch, allowing the wearer to connect with it on a daily basis.
Courtesy of Studio Underd0g
The watch is paired with a handmade Swift Calfskin strap in Vert Marquis, crafted by The Strap Tailor. This 20mm strap tapers to 16mm at the buckle and is designed to fit wrists ranging from 6 to 7 inches. The quick-release spring bars make it easy to change the strap, while the co-signed 316L stainless steel buckle adds a final touch of elegance.
Studio Underd0g ensures that each watch is assembled in Great Britain and undergoes a thorough independent quality control inspection before shipping. This process includes demagnetization, accuracy and rate review in three positions, and regulation if necessary. A report card is included with each watch, providing the owner with a detailed overview of their timepiece's performance.
Looking at the dial, the co-branding of Fears and Studio Underd0g is prominently displayed, a testament to the collaborative nature of this project. The Arabic numerals are clear and legible, and the minute track is precise, allowing for accurate time reading. The hands, simple yet distinct, complement the overall design without overpowering it. One of the most striking features is the way the printing on the top sapphire crystal appears to float above the base dial. This effect is particularly noticeable in the shadows cast by the numerals and branding, which move and change with the light. It's a subtle detail, but one that adds a layer of visual interest and depth to the watch.
The crown, located at the 3 o'clock position, is finely knurled, providing a good grip for winding the watch. Its size is proportionate to the case, ensuring that it doesn't dig into the wrist while still being easy to operate. The lugs are gently curved, hugging the wrist for a comfortable fit. The combination of polished and brushed surfaces on the case adds another layer of visual interest, catching the light in different ways and highlighting the watch's lines and curves.
Courtesy of Studio Underd0g
The strap, a rich green hue, complements the dial perfectly. The stitching is precise and even, a sign of the high-quality craftsmanship that went into its creation. The buckle, made from stainless steel, features the co-branding of both Fears and Studio Underd0g, a small but important detail that ties the whole design together.
In terms of technical specifications, The Gimlet is a well-rounded watch. The 38mm case diameter is a versatile size that will suit a wide range of wrist sizes. The 12mm thickness gives the watch a substantial presence without being overly bulky. The 43.5mm lug-to-lug measurement ensures that the watch sits comfortably on the wrist, while the 20mm lug width provides plenty of options for strap changes.
The choice of the Sellita SW210-1 movement is a smart one. It's a reliable and robust movement that's known for its accuracy and durability. The 42-hour power reserve is ample for a watch that's likely to be worn regularly, and the accuracy of -7/+7 seconds per day is well within the acceptable range for a mechanical watch.
The Gimlet's water resistance of 10 ATM (100 meters) means that it can handle everyday splashes and even swimming without any issues. This, combined with the durable stainless steel case and the high-quality strap, makes The Gimlet a watch that's built to last.
Courtesy of Studio Underd0g
The use of Super-LumiNova on the base dial is a thoughtful touch that enhances the watch's legibility in low-light conditions. The fact that seven layers of lume are applied speaks to the attention to detail that went into the design of this watch. It's not just about making the watch visible in the dark; it's about creating a unique visual effect that sets The Gimlet apart.
The decision to limit The Gimlet to just 200 pieces adds to its exclusivity. It's a watch for those who appreciate the finer details, the craftsmanship, and the story behind the collaboration. This limited production run ensures that each watch is a unique piece, a wearable work of art that's as much about the journey as it is about the destination. Each of those 200 pieces will be made available exclusively during British Watchmakers' Day 2025 on a first-come, first-served basis. The price tag of £1,000.00 places it in a competitive segment of the market, offering a compelling blend of heritage, innovation, and craftsmanship. For those unable to attend the event, there's an option to express interest, with the possibility of acquiring one if any become available.
Case: Ø38mm Brunswick case, 316L Stainless Steel. Dimensions Ø38mm * W12mm, lug width 20mm, lug to lug 43.5mm. 2-part case construction, water-resistance 10 ATM.
Movement: Swiss Sellita SW210-1. Manual Winding, beat rate 28,800 (4Hz), clockwise wind system with hacking. 42 hours power reserve, accuracy -7/+7 s/d.
Dial: Multi-layer dial. Top-dial 1mm thick sapphire crystal, base-dial brass with 7 layers of Super-LumiNova.
Strap: Handmade Swift Calfskin in Vert Marquis by The Strap Tailor. 20mm tapered to 16mm, sizing 120/70mm (6 - 7" wrist). Quick-release spring bars, co-signed 316L Stainless Steel buckle.
Price: £1,000.00
Reference Number: 02SERIES
Notes: Limited to 200 pieces. Available exclusively during British Watchmakers’ Day 2025. Collaboration between one of Britain's oldest watch companies, Fears, and one of its youngest, Studio Underd0g.