Studio Underd0g first burst onto the scene in 2020, captivating watch enthusiasts with their distinctive approach to design and their commitment to delivering high-quality, mechanically driven watches at accessible prices. The brand's philosophy centers around the idea of "affordable luxury," offering timepieces that boast impressive specifications and meticulous craftsmanship without the hefty price tag often associated with mechanical watches. This commitment to value, combined with their unique design language, has quickly garnered them a loyal following among collectors and enthusiasts alike.
Central to Studio Underd0g's identity is the 01SERIES, their flagship collection of chronographs. The 01SERIES embodies the brand's core principles, showcasing a harmonious blend of vintage-inspired aesthetics and modern watchmaking techniques. The watches in this series are characterized by their distinctive panda dials, a classic design element in the chronograph world, often featuring contrasting sub-dials against a main dial color, creating a visually striking and highly legible layout. The 01SERIES has undergone several iterations since its inception, with each generation refining and evolving the core design while introducing new features and enhancements.
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The latest iteration, the 01SERIES Gen3, marks a significant step forward for Studio Underd0g. It's a testament to the brand's dedication to continuous improvement and their commitment to pushing the boundaries of what's possible in affordable watchmaking. This new generation retains the core DNA of the 01SERIES, with its signature chronograph layout and playful use of color, but introduces a host of refinements and upgrades that elevate the collection to new heights.
One of the most notable changes in the Gen3 is the introduction of the exclusive ST-1901B movement, a bespoke caliber developed in partnership with Seagull, the renowned Chinese movement manufacturer. This movement represents a significant upgrade from the previous generation, boasting enhanced accuracy, increased power reserve, and a visually captivating design. The ST-1901B features an all-black main plate that provides a striking contrast to the movement's bridges, wheels, and balance. The addition of a silver swan neck regulator not only adds a touch of elegance but also allows for more precise regulation of the movement.
The Gen3 also sees refinements to the case design, with a slimmer mid-case that enhances wearability and a thicker crown that ensures a smooth and satisfying winding experience. The dial has been re-tooled, now proudly bearing the "Assembled in Great Britain" mark, a testament to the brand's commitment to local craftsmanship. Furthermore, a larger sapphire exhibition crystal offers an unobstructed view of the intricate workings of the ST-1901B movement.
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The 01SERIES Gen3 launches with four distinct dial variations, each offering a unique personality and appeal. The Watermel0n, with its vibrant red and green color scheme, is a playful and energetic take on the classic chronograph. The Desert Sky, inspired by the color palette of a pair of sneakers, offers a more subdued and sophisticated aesthetic. The Go0fy Panda, with its grey and black panda dial, is a nod to the traditional chronograph design, while the Mint Ch0c Chip, inspired by the popular ice cream flavor, presents a refreshingly cool and modern look.
At the heart of the Gen3 beats the ST-1901B, a manually wound, column-wheel chronograph movement developed exclusively for Studio Underd0g by Seagull. This isn't your run-of-the-mill ST-1901; it's been re-engineered with an all-black main plate, showcasing the mechanical ballet of gears and springs in a whole new light. The addition of a swan neck regulator isn't just for show; it allows for finer adjustments, bringing the accuracy down to an impressive -10/+15 seconds per day. This movement is a workhorse, offering a solid 50-hour power reserve when the chronograph isn't running, and a respectable 45 hours when it is.
Now, let's talk about the case. Crafted from 316L stainless steel, it measures a versatile 38.5mm in diameter, making it a comfortable fit for a wide range of wrist sizes. The case design strikes a balance between vintage cues and modern sensibilities. It's got a classic round shape with those signature chronograph pushers, but the slimmed-down 12.9mm thickness gives it a contemporary edge. And don't forget the crown – they've beefed it up a bit, making it easier to grip and wind.
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The dial is where the 01SERIES Gen3 truly shines. Each of the four variations – Watermel0n, Desert Sky, Go0fy Panda, and Mint Ch0c Chip – tells a different color story. They've used a two-layer dial construction, with a satin-blasted base and a coarse dégradé top layer, creating a depth and texture that plays with the light. The sub-dials are perfectly proportioned, offering a clear view of the chronograph functions without cluttering the dial. And of course, the hands and indices are coated with Super-LumiNova C3, ensuring legibility in any light. Like mentioned earlier that 01SERIES Gen3 is offered in four different dial combinations, let's take a look at each.
Watermel0n: This one's a real head-turner. The vibrant red and green color scheme is inspired by, you guessed it, a watermelon. It's a bold and playful choice that's sure to spark conversations. The red dégradé top dial fades into a rich green towards the center, creating a dynamic and eye-catching effect.
Desert Sky: If you're looking for something a bit more understated, the Desert Sky might be your jam. The color palette is inspired by a pair of sneakers, with a cool blue dégradé top dial fading into a sandy beige. It's a sophisticated and versatile option that can be dressed up or down.
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Go0fy Panda: This is a modern take on the classic panda dial. The main dial is a light grey, providing a clean backdrop for the black sub-dials. It's a timeless and elegant look that's perfect for everyday wear.
Mint Ch0c Chip: Inspired by the classic ice cream flavor, the Mint Ch0c Chip is a cool and refreshing option. The light green dégradé top dial fades into a creamy beige, creating a unique and visually appealing combination.
Flipping the watch over, you're greeted by a sapphire exhibition caseback, giving you a front-row seat to the ST-1901B in action. You can see the column wheel doing its thing, the balance wheel oscillating, and all those gears meshing in perfect harmony. It's a mechanical symphony for the eyes.
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Studio Underd0g hasn't skimped on the strap either. Each Gen3 comes fitted with a 20mm Italian Saffiano leather strap that tapers down to 16mm at the buckle. This leather is known for its durability and its subtle crosshatch texture, adding a touch of refinement. The strap is secured with a signed stainless steel buckle and features quick-release spring bars, making it a breeze to swap out for a different look.
But it's not just about the physical components; it's about the attention to detail. Every Studio Underd0g watch is assembled in Great Britain and undergoes rigorous quality control checks. They even include a report card with each watch, detailing its performance after being demagnetized and regulated. This commitment to quality is rare at this price point, with the Gen3 watches retailing for $675.