Seiko Presage Classic Semi-Skeleton

A Glimpse Into the Mechanics

Words by: Hourstriker Staff
March 14, 2024
Seiko, a name synonymous with Japanese watchmaking excellence, has been a leading innovator in the industry for over 130 years. The company's rich history began in 1881, when a young entrepreneur named Kintaro Hattori opened a shop selling and repairing timepieces in central Tokyo. Just over a decade later, in 1892, Hattori established Seikosha, a factory that would produce Seiko's first clocks. Seiko's dedication to quality and precision watchmaking has earned it a loyal following among watch enthusiasts around the world.

In 2016, Seiko unveiled the Presage collection, a line of mechanical watches that embodied the spirit of Japanese craftsmanship. Each Presage timepiece seamlessly blends traditional Japanese design elements with Seiko's advanced watchmaking techniques. The collection quickly captured the imagination of watch collectors who appreciated the distinctive aesthetic and exceptional quality offered by Presage watches.

Courtesy of Seiko


For 2024, Seiko expands the Presage universe with the introduction of the Classic Series. This new series of five watches stays true to the core tenets of the Presage collection, drawing inspiration from Japanese arts and aesthetics. The Classic Series takes a decidedly subtle approach, emphasizing softness and a gentle touch.

The dial is the focal point of the Classic Series watches. The designers have opted for richly textured, curved dials that evoke the supple feel of natural textiles. These textiles have a long and storied history in Japanese culture, and their incorporation into the watch design adds a layer of depth and sophistication. The textured dials capture and reflect ambient light, creating an ever-changing display of light and shadow on the wrist.

Continuing the theme of softness, the indexes curve gently to follow the contours of the dial. The watch hands are likewise subtly bent to match the curve of the dial and indexes. The result is a cohesive and balanced design that pleases the eye.

The case of the Classic Series watches mirrors the softness of the dial. The curved surfaces of the case complement the dial shape and contribute to the overall impression of comfortable elegance. A dual-curved sapphire crystal rests atop the case, further echoing the curvature of the dial and adding to the watch's depth.

Courtesy of Seiko


The Classic Series is outfitted with a newly designed multi-row bracelet inspired by 1970s aesthetics. The bracelet's links are short and ergonomically shaped to provide a comfortable fit on the wrist. The curved upper surface of each link and the reduced contact points minimize any bulk and ensure a sleek, comfortable feel against the skin.

The Classic Series embraces the Japanese aesthetic through its color palette as well. Each watch in the series features a dial in a traditional Japanese color. These colors include shiroiro, the color of natural unbleached fabric; sensaicha, a subdued greenish-brown popular during the Edo period; araigaki, a washed and bleached persimmon color; and sumiiro, a greyish black once used in monks' garments.

The dial remains the primary focus in the Semi-Skeleton, and it's here that the watch truly comes to life. While the other dials in the series showcase textured surfaces, the Semi-Skeleton opts for a pattern resembling spun raw silk. This pattern seems to swirl on the dial, adding a dynamic quality that draws the eye in.

Courtesy of Seiko


This captivating pattern is achieved by using a process of radial stamping on the base of the dial. The end effect is a fascinating depth and texture that changes and shifts depending on how light interacts with the watch, providing constant visual interest.

However, the star of the show on the Semi-Skeleton is undoubtedly the open-heart aperture at the 9 o'clock position. This carefully placed opening gives us a window into the watch's mechanical world. Watching the escapement move in rhythmic pulses adds a touch of horological theater to the wrist.

Seiko ensures that form doesn't entirely eclipse function. The hands, shaped to complement the dial's curve, are designed to remain clearly visible despite the Semi-Skeleton's bolder aesthetic. A 24-hour scale circles the periphery of the dial, adding to the watch's functionality and visual complexity. Balancing the dial's design is the date display discreetly placed at the 6 o'clock position.

The Semi-Skeleton reveals not only a portion of the dial-side mechanics but also provides a view of the movement through its exhibition case back. The Caliber 6R5J is a workhorse of a movement, combining reliability and performance. It's an automatic movement, meaning it naturally charges itself using the wearer's movements. This translates to convenience – there's no need for manual winding as long as the watch is worn regularly.

Courtesy of Seiko


The 6R5J offers a generous 72-hour power reserve. This feature is a real asset for everyday wear, ensuring that the watch won't stop running if taken off for the weekend. The gold-colored oscillating weight is on full display through the case back, adding a touch of visual warmth and demonstrating Seiko's attention to detail, even on components hidden largely from sight.

Consistent with the Classic Series, the Semi-Skeleton features a smoothly curved case that blends seamlessly with the curvature of the dial and crystal. The stainless steel case boasts what Seiko calls a "super hard coating," a treatment that enhances scratch resistance and keeps the watch looking sharp for years to come.

At 40.2mm in diameter and 13mm thick, the Semi-Skeleton maintains a presence on the wrist without feeling bulky or oversized. Its moderate dimensions should comfortably fit a wide variety of wrists and suit diverse personal styles.

The Semi-Skeleton ships on the same newly designed multi-row bracelet that's featured throughout the Classic Series. This bracelet delivers remarkable comfort thanks to its ergonomic links and shorter overall length, ensuring a snug and satisfying fit on the wrist. The deployment clasp neatly integrates into the bracelet design, keeping the overall aesthetic clean and streamlined. The push-button release adds a layer of security and ease of use.

Courtesy of Seiko


The Seiko Presage Classic Semi-Skeleton delivers a compelling blend of Japanese design flair and solid watchmaking. It's a versatile timepiece that straddles the world of dress watches and more casual everyday wear. The dial's captivating texture and the open-heart display elevate it from simple functionality, bringing a sense of playfulness to the wrist.

For seasoned watch enthusiasts, the Semi-Skeleton offers a glimpse into the heart of its mechanics without sacrificing practicality. The 72-hour power reserve and 100-meter water resistance make this watch a capable companion for everyday adventures. And even for those newer to the world of watches, the Semi-Skeleton is an invitation to explore what makes mechanical watches so captivating.
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