Schofield Obscura

Fifteen years in the making, the Schofield Obscura is a watch that defies convention, embraces the mysterious, and solidifies Giles Ellis' reputation as a true visionary in the world of horology. In a market saturated with predictable designs and mass-produced timepieces, the Obscura emerges as a testament to the enduring spirit of independent watchmaking. It's not just a watch; it's an artifact, a conversation starter, and a glimpse into the mind of a designer who refuses to be constrained by the ordinary.

But before we delve into the intricate details of this enigmatic timepiece, it's essential to understand the brand and the man behind it. Schofield Watch Company, founded in 2008 by Giles Ellis, has always been a bit of an outlier. Ellis, with his self-proclaimed enthusiasm for all things "extra," has carved a unique niche for his brand, attracting a devoted following of watch enthusiasts who appreciate the unconventional. Schofield watches aren't for everyone, and that's precisely the point. They're for those who dare to be different, who value craftsmanship over conformity, and who see a watch as more than just a tool to tell time.



The Obscura, in many ways, is the culmination of Ellis' journey as a watchmaker. It's a project of self-indulgence, a watch that he describes as his best work yet. It's a watch that could only have been made now, with the experience, team, and makers that Ellis has accumulated over the past fifteen years. In his own words, the Obscura is unfettered by expense, detail, materials, and craftsmanship.

So, what makes the Obscura so special? To put it simply, it's a watch that doesn't play by the rules. It was designed within the constraints of a traditional timepiece—a round watch with central hour and minute hands—but it was manipulated to look less conventional and more like a mysterious timing device. It's the kind of watch that, if found in the undergrowth, you might hesitate to pick up, unsure of its origins or purpose.

The name "Obscura" is fitting, as the watch is intentionally obscure in its design choices and materials. It's not the kind of watch that can be easily summarized in a list of bullet points. It's a watch that demands a closer look, a deeper understanding of its many intricacies. It's a watch that reveals its secrets slowly, like a puzzle that you can't help but try to solve.



One of the most striking features of the Obscura is its Damascus steel case. This isn't your ordinary Damascus steel, though. It's made by Vegas Forge in the United States, using enormous Nazel Hammers to smash different steels together, resulting in a cellular pattern that's more akin to superconductor material than the wavy form typically associated with Damascus steel. It's a timeless, traditional, and artisan material that sets the Obscura apart from the crowd.

The case is then machined and finished in Sussex, England, using acid etching to create a unique texture. In a recent update, bronze bushings were added around the strap bar holes, adding a touch of contrast and visual interest. These bushings act like friction bearings, but they also frame the steel strap bar screws, creating an obvious boundary and shadow line.

The Obscura's crown is another standout feature. It's oversized, like all Schofield crowns, for better leverage and easier handling. It's DLC coated and features fine knurling, a nail groove, multiple steps, and different finishes. But the real fun is in the red/pink Super-LumiNova fill in the engraved front face. This glowing dot under your cuff is a concept that Schofield introduced with the Blacklamp in 2013, and it's a subtle yet captivating detail that adds to the Obscura's mystique.



The case back is a story in itself. It's built around three smoked sapphire crystals that partially obscure the manual wind Unitas movement beneath. These crystals slightly magnify elements on the movement, like the blued screws, creating a mesmerizing effect as they catch the light. The three circles in a triangle arrangement are a classic sci-fi trope, evoking images of alien spacecraft or advanced technology.

The fonts used on the case back are also intriguing, with one that could be Mayan, Witcher, or Incal in origin. It's not the most legible font, but it adds to the watch's overall sense of mystery and intrigue. The other font shows semaphore flag positions, with a contraction of the N and D forming the CND logo, a masterpiece of design by Gerald Holtom in 1958.

The Obscura's dial is a masterpiece of complexity and multi-layered intrigue. It's a canvas for Schofield's signature lume design, which Ellis describes as "austere in the day and a laser show at night." Runnels of Super-LumiNova in different colors and emission properties create a mesmerizing spectacle in low-light conditions. Some of these lume colors were even developed specifically for Schofield, pushing the boundaries of what's possible in watch lume design.

The dial base is rhodium-plated, featuring a dark grey hue and a fine matte texture that adds a touch of sophistication. The hour and minute hands are different colors, with the minute hand skeletonized and the hour hand lumed. At 12 o'clock, the hands align, revealing the lume strip of the hour hand through the window of the minute hand. This clever design element allows for easy timekeeping in the dark, as the minute hand obscures the lume ring on the dial beneath, marking time with an absence of luminescence.



The sub-seconds dial is another example of Schofield's attention to detail. It's a milled pocket of Super-LumiNova, and the seconds hand unusually sweeps beyond its boundary. The sub-dial is white, the hand blue, and the dot red, a subtle nod to the watch's British manufacture.

The Obscura's strap is a testament to Schofield's commitment to quality materials and craftsmanship. It's made from high-quality Italian tanned and British finished grey calf leather, featuring a mottled and matte finish that Schofield refers to as "Cloud leather." The underside is bark calf with a green foiled logo, adding a touch of luxury and exclusivity. While the Obscura strap is designed specifically for this watch, all other Schofield straps are compatible, offering a degree of versatility for the wearer.

The buckle, while not made of Damascus steel like the case, is no less impressive. It's designed to be retro-fittable to all other Schofield watches, showcasing the brand's commitment to backward compatibility. Slightly larger than previous Schofield buckles, it's bead-blasted and DLC coated, with engraved and paint-filled details that add a touch of vintage charm. The buckle uses a blued pocketed strap bar that prevents accidental slippage, a thoughtful feature for watch enthusiasts who appreciate both form and function.

Perhaps the most intriguing aspect of the Obscura is its presentation. It doesn't come in a traditional watch box; it comes in a canister. This canister, made specifically for the Obscura, is an object of beauty in its own right, designed to be displayed alongside the watch. Inside, the watch spins on a gimbal, eliminating the need for upholstery and adding a touch of theatrical flair. The canister's design is inspired by Japanese tea caddies and military ordnance, with a stainless-steel bolt resembling a precision cap.



All of this meticulous design and craftsmanship doesn't come cheap. The Schofield Obscura, with its 44mm case size, is a limited edition of only 40 pieces, and it retails for a cool £9,558. It's a significant investment, but for those who appreciate the artistry, exclusivity, and sheer audacity of the Obscura, it's a price worth paying.

In conclusion, the Schofield Obscura is more than just a watch; it's a statement piece, a conversation starter, and a testament to the enduring spirit of independent watchmaking. It's a watch that challenges convention, embraces the mysterious, and rewards those who take the time to truly understand its many intricacies. It's a watch that will undoubtedly leave a lasting impression on anyone fortunate enough to experience it firsthand.