Roger Dubuis, the maverick watchmaker known for pushing the boundaries of mechanical luxury, has unveiled a new masterpiece – the Orbis In Machina. This timepiece isn't just a watch; it's a captivating testament to the brand's legacy of innovation and its unwavering commitment to the art of Haute Horlogerie.
For the uninitiated,
Roger Dubuis is a relative newcomer in the grand scheme of Swiss watchmaking. Founded in 1995 by Carlos Dias and Roger Dubuis, the brand set out to redefine the genre with bold designs and an audacious approach to watchmaking. They brought together the talents of visionary designers and master watchmakers, fostering a unique environment where artistic freedom met technical prowess. The result? Genre-bending watches that blurred the lines between jewelry and haute horology, each one a captivating feat of mechanical engineering.
Courtesy of Roger Dubuis
The Orbis In Machina perfectly embodies this philosophy. This watch isn't just about telling time; it's a statement piece designed to captivate and enthrall. On the surface, it's a study in contrasts. The watch features a 45mm pink gold case that offers a bold and contemporary presence. The bezel, crafted from the same 18K pink gold, houses a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, offering a clear view into the complex mechanics at the heart of the watch. Those familiar with Roger Dubuis's "Excalibur" collection will recognize the signature pink gold crown. However, unlike other Excalibur models that often sport a black alligator strap, the Orbis In Machina features a sleek black calf leather strap. This choice reinforces the watch's modern aesthetic while maintaining a touch of timeless sophistication.
But the true marvel of the Orbis In Machina lies on its face. Here, Roger Dubuis throws tradition to the wind and embraces a radical design. The watch eschews a traditional dial in favor of a multi-layered masterpiece of contrasting pink gold and grey rings. These concentric circles are crafted at various heights, creating a three-dimensional effect that draws the eye into the very heart of the watch. Through these open sections, the wearer enjoys a mesmerizing glimpse of the RD115 caliber, the complex mechanism that brings the Orbis In Machina to life.
Courtesy of Roger Dubuis
While the front of the Orbis In Machina is a celebration of radical design, the Rückseite (German for "back side") tells a different story. Here, tradition reigns supreme. The pink gold case back features another sapphire crystal window, offering a tantalizing view of the movement in all its glory. Unlike the contemporary facade, the back of the watch showcases the meticulous detail and hand-finishing techniques that are the hallmarks of Genevan watchmaking. The sliced bridges and rounded lines harken back to a more classical era, and the immaculate finish is a testament to the enduring skills of Roger Dubuis's watchmakers.
What exactly powers this mechanical marvel? The Orbis In Machina boasts the RD115 caliber, a manual-winding movement that boasts a central flying tourbillon. This captivating complication is a marvel of engineering, neutralizing the effects of gravity on the watch's timekeeping accuracy. The RD115 caliber also offers a 72-hour power reserve, ensuring the watch keeps ticking even when unworn for a few days.
Courtesy of Roger Dubuis
The Orbis In Machina is brought to life by the RD115 caliber, a hand-wound powerhouse with a flying central tourbillon at its core. To watch a tourbillon in motion is mesmerizing. This intricate complication rotates the watch's escapement (comprising the balance wheel and hairspring) within a cage. It's a dance designed to combat the negative effects of gravity on timekeeping precision – gravity constantly tugs at the watch's regulating organs, causing variations in timekeeping in different positions. The tourbillon cage, typically rotating once per minute, averages out these positional errors, resulting in a more accurate timepiece. It's a captivating spectacle and a true testament to Roger Dubuis's technical mastery.
In the case of the RD115, the lack of a traditional dial allows an unimpeded view into the hypnotic movements of the flying central tourbillon. Unlike a standard tourbillon, which is anchored by a bridge on one side, the flying tourbillon features only a lower supporting bridge, creating the illusion of the entire complication floating in mid-air.
Another striking feature of the Orbis In Machina is the way the watchmakers had to re-engineer how the hands are set. With the skeletonized architecture taking center stage, they needed a solution for the watch to remain functional. Their groundbreaking solution led to a new, patent-pending system. Instead of a traditional central stem for winding and setting the time, the Orbis In Machina features two discreet wheels positioned at the edge of the case back. The lower wheel is used for winding the movement, while the upper wheel is cleverly designed for setting the unconventional flying hands.
Courtesy of Roger Dubuis
The Roger Dubuis Orbis In Machina proudly bears the Poinçon de Genève, or the Hallmark of Geneva, on its movement. This is no mere decoration. It is one of horology's most prestigious and stringent certifications, guaranteeing superlative craftsmanship, performance, and origin. Watches earning this seal meet 12 rigorous criteria encompassing aesthetics, finishing, and functionality. Each component within the movement must be meticulously finished and decorated by hand, employing time-honored techniques such as perlage (circular graining), côtes de Genève (straight-lined graining), and anglage (chamfering and polishing of edges). Only a select few watchmakers possess the skills and dedication necessary to meet the exacting standards of the Poinçon de Genève.
The Roger Dubuis Orbis In Machina is an extraordinary feat of watchmaking, limited to a mere 88 pieces worldwide. This exclusivity, coupled with its exceptional design and craftsmanship, makes it incredibly sought-after by discerning collectors. The 45mm pink gold case, while large, feels perfectly balanced on the wrist due to its ergonomic lines and the supple black calf leather strap. The quick-release system of the strap also adds a level of convenience, allowing collectors to easily swap in different straps to change up the look of their timepiece.
Courtesy of Roger Dubuis
The Orbis In Machina isn't just a watch; it's a testament to Roger Dubuis's unwavering commitment to pushing boundaries and embracing the avant-garde. It's a celebration of Haute Horlogerie's rich traditions and a declaration of mechanical ingenuity. This watch is not for those who wish to fade into the background. It commands attention and serves as a symbol of appreciation for those who dare to be different.
The Roger Dubuis Orbis In Machina is a triumph of watchmaking, a timepiece that demands attention and admiration. From its bold design to its intricate mechanics, it's a watch designed for those seeking the extraordinary. With its limited availability and impeccable attention to detail, the Orbis In Machina is destined to become a coveted treasure in the world of high watchmaking.