Ressence TYPE 8 Indigo

The Art of Indigo Dyeing

Words by: Hourstriker Staff
November 25, 2024
Ressence has consistently pushed the boundaries of watchmaking, captivating collectors with its distinctive approach to timekeeping. The TYPE 8 collection, known for its minimalist design and orbital display, has become a hallmark of the brand's commitment to redefining contemporary watchmaking. Now, Ressence unveils a limited-edition masterpiece that seamlessly blends cutting-edge technology with the ancient Japanese art of indigo dyeing—the TYPE 8 Indigo.



This remarkable timepiece is more than just a watch; it's a testament to Ressence's unwavering pursuit of excellence and its deep appreciation for cultural heritage. The TYPE 8 Indigo is the brand's contribution to The Indigo Project, an initiative spearheaded by Shellman, Ressence's esteemed partner in Tokyo. This project celebrates the renewal and expansion of Shellman's retail space at the prestigious Isetan Shinjuku department store, now the largest luxury watch destination in Japan.

Courtesy of Ressence


To fully understand the significance of the TYPE 8 Indigo, we must first delve into the history of Ressence and its unique approach to watchmaking. Founded in 2010 by industrial designer Benoît Mintiens, Ressence has challenged the conventions of traditional horology, stripping away superfluous elements and focusing on the essence of timekeeping. The brand's signature orbital display, where rotating discs replace conventional hands, offers a mesmerizing and intuitive way to read time.



The TYPE 8 collection, launched in 2022, epitomizes Ressence's minimalist philosophy. With its pared-back design and focus on essential timekeeping functions, the TYPE 8 is a study in purity and elegance. The expansive dial, devoid of extraneous details, provides the perfect canvas for showcasing the intricate beauty of indigo dyeing.



Ressence's journey to create the TYPE 8 Indigo began with a quest for authenticity. The brand sought to capture the true essence of natural indigo, a dye with a rich history and cultural significance in Japan. This led to the choice of thread as the ideal medium for expressing the depth and vibrancy of this ancient craft.



To ensure the highest quality and respect for tradition, Ressence partnered with Buaisou, a renowned company based in Tokushima Prefecture, the heart of indigo dyeing in Japan. Buaisou cultivates its own indigo plants and meticulously manages every step of the dyeing process, from harvesting the leaves to extracting the pigment and dyeing the thread. This commitment to artisanal craftsmanship is reflected in the exquisite beauty of the TYPE 8 Indigo's dial.



The dial itself is a work of art, meticulously crafted from 2.5 meters of indigo-dyed silk thread. The thread is applied in a mesmerizing spiral pattern, reminiscent of the growth rings of a tree, symbolizing the passage of time. The vibrant blue hues of the indigo dye, ranging from electric blues to deep, almost black tones, create a captivating visual experience that evolves with every glance.

Courtesy of Ressence


The creation of the TYPE 8 Indigo's dial involved a collaboration between Ressence and skilled Swiss Arts & Métiers artisans. This marks the first time Ressence has incorporated an Arts & Métiers craft into one of its watches, further demonstrating the brand's dedication to pushing the boundaries of horological innovation.



The delicate task of applying the silk thread to the dial requires exceptional skill and precision. Each dial takes two days to complete, with a skilled craftswoman meticulously placing and bonding the thread to the titanium components. Special bonding materials are used to prevent the glue from seeping into the fibers and altering the color of the silk, ensuring that the natural beauty of the indigo dye shines through.



The TYPE 8 Indigo is not only a testament to Ressence's innovative spirit but also a celebration of Japanese cultural heritage. The use of natural indigo dye and the collaboration with Buaisou underscore the brand's deep appreciation for traditional craftsmanship and its commitment to preserving ancient techniques.



To further understand the significance of the TYPE 8 Indigo, it's essential to explore the history of indigo dyeing in Japan. Indigo, known as "Japan Blue," has been an integral part of Japanese culture for centuries. Believed to have been introduced to Japan through the Silk Road or ancient Chinese cultures, indigo dyeing has been practiced in the country since as early as the 6th century.



The indigo plant, Indigofera tinctoria, is prized for its rich blue dye and medicinal properties. The leaves of the plant are harvested and fermented over months to produce "sukumo," the natural pigment that has been a cornerstone of Japanese art and textiles for generations.

Courtesy of Ressence


The process of indigo dyeing is a labor of love, requiring patience, skill, and a deep understanding of the natural materials involved. The fermented indigo leaves are combined with other natural ingredients to create a dye bath. The threads are then carefully dipped into the bath multiple times, allowing the dye to penetrate the fibers and create the characteristic Deep Blue hue.



The resulting color, known as "Japan Blue," is renowned for its depth, richness, and unique character. It is a color that has been associated with Japanese culture for centuries, symbolizing tradition, craftsmanship, and the enduring beauty of natural materials.



At the heart of the TYPE 8 Indigo beats the patented ROCS 8 – Ressence Orbital Convex System – module. This ingenious mechanism, driven by the minute axle of a customized automatic base caliber, is a marvel of micro-engineering. The ROCS 8 module orchestrates the mesmerizing dance of the dial's rotating discs, creating a captivating display that reimagines the way we perceive time.



The self-winding movement boasts a 36-hour power reserve, ensuring that the watch keeps accurate time even when not worn. With 28,800 vibrations per hour, 31 jewels, 20 gears, and 4 ball bearings, the movement is a symphony of precision and reliability. The intricate interplay of these components ensures smooth and accurate timekeeping, a testament to Ressence's dedication to horological excellence.



The dial of the TYPE 8 Indigo is a testament to the brand's artistry and technical prowess. Crafted from Grade 5 titanium, the dial measures 75mm in diameter and runs on a jewel ball bearing with eccentric satellites rolling on jewel ball-bearings inclined at 9.75° (hours). This intricate construction allows for the mesmerizing orbital display that has become synonymous with Ressence watches.

Courtesy of Ressence


The application of silk thread to the dial is a meticulous process that requires exceptional skill and patience. The thread is applied in a single piece, spiraling from the outer edge inward, following the contours of the cavity. To preserve the silk's natural visual effect, special bonding materials are used to prevent glue from seeping into the fibers and altering the color.



The result is a dial that is both visually stunning and technically impressive. The indigo pigments reveal a spectrum of shades, from electric blues to nearly black tones, creating a vibrant, ever-evolving watch that offers something new with each glance.



The case of the TYPE 8 Indigo is crafted from polished Grade 5 titanium, a material known for its exceptional strength, lightness, and biocompatibility. The domed sapphire crystal, with an anti-reflective coating on the inside, provides a clear view of the captivating dial while protecting it from scratches and impacts.



Measuring 42.9mm in diameter and a mere 11mm in thickness, the TYPE 8 Indigo strikes a perfect balance between presence and wearability. The watch sits comfortably on the wrist, its lightweight construction ensuring that it can be worn all day without discomfort.



The TYPE 8 Indigo features a unique winding and setting mechanism. The watch is manually wound over 12° and set via the caseback, eliminating the need for a traditional crown. This innovative design not only enhances the watch's aesthetic appeal but also contributes to its user-friendly operation.



The watch is fitted with a medium warm grey Saffiano calf leather strap, adding a touch of sophistication and comfort. The titanium ardillon buckle securely fastens the strap to the wrist, ensuring a perfect fit.

Courtesy of Ressence


With a total of 188 components, the TYPE 8 Indigo is a testament to Ressence's meticulous attention to detail and its commitment to creating watches that are both technically impressive and aesthetically pleasing. Weighing a mere 42 grams, the watch is remarkably lightweight, making it a joy to wear.



The Ressence TYPE 8 Indigo is a limited-edition timepiece, with only 8 pieces available worldwide. This exclusivity adds to the watch's allure, making it a coveted collector's item. The retail price is CHF 25,000 (excluding taxes), reflecting the watch's exceptional craftsmanship, innovative technology, and limited production.
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