Raymond Weil Millesime Automatic Tri-Compax Chronograph

Raymond Weil continues to build upon its successful Millesime collection by introducing three new automatic chronographs. These timepieces further explore the collection's core idea: marrying design cues drawn from historical watchmaking with the expectations and technology of contemporary horology. The chronograph function itself, a complication often associated with precision timing and sporting pursuits, is experiencing a renewed appreciation among watch buyers, making this launch particularly relevant. These new models aim to capture that interest with carefully considered proportions and a look rooted in mid-century watch design.



Founded in 1976 by Mr. Raymond Weil himself during a challenging period for the Swiss watch industry, the brand carved its niche by focusing on accessible Swiss-made quality with a strong sense of design, often drawing inspiration from music and the arts. Remaining one of the few independent, family-run watchmaking companies provides Raymond Weil with a distinct perspective, allowing it to pursue specific design directions like the Millesime collection without the constraints faced by larger conglomerates. This independence seems to fuel its ability to create watches that resonate with enthusiasts looking for character and solid mechanics without reaching stratospheric price points.



The Millesime collection, as its name suggests (Millesime translates to 'vintage' or 'year' in French, often used for wines), serves as a vessel for Raymond Weil to interpret historical watch aesthetics. It's not about creating exact replicas of past models but rather capturing the spirit and charm of specific eras, particularly the clean lines and functional layouts often seen in mid-20th-century watches. The collection seeks to blend this nostalgic appeal with modern practicality and reliability, offering designs that feel familiar yet fresh.



Chronograph watches are currently enjoying significant attention in the watch community. Collectors and enthusiasts appreciate them for several reasons: the technical intricacy of the complication, the visual interest added by sub-dials and pushers, and their inherent connection to measuring performance and speed. A well-executed chronograph is often seen as a versatile piece, capable of fitting both casual and slightly more formal settings. Raymond Weil's new Millesime chronographs enter this active market segment aiming for sophistication, clarity, and balanced design.



The design approach for these three new additions centers on visual harmony and functional clarity. They feature the classic tri-compax layout, positioning the chronograph sub-dials at the 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions. This arrangement is inherently balanced and allows for easy reading of the elapsed time. The overall aesthetic leans towards a subtly retro feel, achieved through specific choices in dial configuration, case shape, and crystal design. A key inspiration is the "reverse panda" dial configuration – a dark main dial contrasted with light-colored sub-dials – a look popularised in the 1960s and 70s and favored by many collectors today for its legibility and visual punch.



All three models share a common case structure, crafted from stainless steel and measuring 39mm in diameter. This size is quite contemporary, hitting a sweet spot that appeals to a broad range of wrist sizes and preferences, moving away from the larger dimensions often seen in chronographs over the past couple of decades. The case thickness is kept to a relatively slim 12.9mm, enhancing wearing comfort, especially considering it houses an automatic chronograph movement. The case surfaces feature a mix of finishes, likely incorporating brushed and polished areas to create visual depth and highlight the case lines. Water resistance is rated at 50 meters (5 ATM), suitable for everyday wear and protecting against splashes or rain, though not intended for swimming.



A significant contributor to the vintage character of these watches is the sapphire crystal. Instead of a flat crystal, Raymond Weil employs a "glassbox" style crystal, which is distinctly domed and rises above the bezel. This shape mimics the look of acrylic crystals used on watches decades ago but provides the superior scratch resistance of modern sapphire. To ensure excellent readability despite the domed shape, the crystal features anti-reflective coating on both its inner and outer surfaces, minimizing glare and allowing a clear view of the detailed dial below.



Powering these chronographs is the Caliber RW5030. This is a mechanical, self-winding chronograph movement. The automatic winding means the watch is powered by the motion of the wearer's wrist, negating the need for daily manual winding. The movement provides the energy for the standard timekeeping (hours, minutes, seconds) as well as the chronograph functions (start, stop, reset, measuring elapsed seconds, minutes, and hours via the sub-dials). A notable specification is the power reserve, quoted at an ample 62 hours. This is a healthy duration, meaning the watch can be taken off for a couple of days (over a weekend, for example) and potentially still be running when picked up again. The movement's height is listed as 4.6mm, contributing to the watch's overall manageable thickness.



Adding to the appeal for those fascinated by mechanical watchmaking, the Millesime chronographs feature an exhibition case back. A snapped case back fitted with a sapphire crystal window allows the owner to view the RW5030 movement inside. Observing the oscillating weight spin, the balance wheel pulse, and the intricate levers of the chronograph mechanism engage provides a connection to the complex machine ticking away on the wrist. While details on the specific finishing of the movement aren't extensively provided, exhibition backs typically imply a degree of decoration worthy of display.



The dials are a focal point, employing a sector layout – a design style using concentric circles to demarcate different zones or tracks on the dial, aiding legibility. Common elements across the variants include a snailed finish (a pattern of fine concentric circles) on the minute track, adding texture and visual interest. The central area of the dial features a delicate vertical brushing, offering a subtle contrast to the snailed track and sub-dials. Encircling the main dial area is a tachymeter scale, a common feature on chronographs used (in conjunction with the chronograph seconds hand) to measure speed over a known distance. This scale reinforces the watch's sporty character. Readability in low light is addressed through the application of Super-LumiNova® on both the hands and the hour indexes.



The first variation, reference 7765-ST-60651, presents a cool, somewhat technical aesthetic. It features an anthracite (dark grey) main dial, providing a sophisticated backdrop for the three contrasting silver sub-dials – achieving that classic reverse panda look. The Super-LumiNova® applied to the indexes has a rose gold shade, adding a hint of warmth to the otherwise monochromatic scheme. This model comes housed in a full stainless steel case and is paired with a matching stainless steel bracelet. The bracelet closes with a stainless steel folding clasp equipped with a double push-security system, offering both convenience and assurance against accidental opening. This all-steel configuration gives it a robust and versatile appearance, suitable for a wide range of situations.



The second model, reference 7765-PC5-20631, offers a distinctly warmer and arguably dressier profile. Here, the stainless steel case receives a rose gold PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) coating. PVD is a modern process used to apply a thin, durable layer of material – in this case, one mimicking the color of rose gold – onto the steel base. This is paired with a black sector dial, creating a strong contrast with the three white chronograph sub-dials. The Super-LumiNova® on the indexes of this version is white, maintaining a crisp look against the black dial. Instead of a bracelet, this reference is fitted with a black strap made from genuine calf leather, fastened with a traditional stainless steel pin buckle that would also likely feature the rose gold PVD coating to match the case. The combination of the rose gold tone case and black leather strap lends it a more classic, perhaps slightly formal character compared to the steel bracelet version.



The third iteration, reference 7765-STC-60651, provides a different take on the anthracite dial. Like the first model, it uses a stainless steel case without PVD coating and features the anthracite sector dial with silver sub-dials and rose gold shaded SLN indexes. However, instead of the steel bracelet, this version is matched with a camel-colored genuine calf leather strap. This pairing creates a more casual, arguably more vintage-leaning vibe compared to its bracelet counterpart. The camel strap offers a warmer contrast to the cool steel case and grey dial. It secures with a standard stainless steel traditional buckle. This option provides the same dial configuration as the steel bracelet model but presents a different personality through the strap choice.



Shared details across all three watches include the hands and the crown. The hour and minute hands are described as "obelisk-style," suggesting a shape that tapers towards the tip, likely faceted to catch the light. They feature a brushed finish and are filled with luminescent material for visibility. The crown, used for setting the time and potentially winding the watch if needed, is fluted for easy grip and bears the Raymond Weil "RW" monogram, a subtle branding detail. The chronograph functions are operated via two pushers flanking the crown, typically located at the 2 o'clock (start/stop) and 4 o'clock (reset) positions.



The choice of straps and bracelet significantly influences the character of each watch. The stainless steel bracelet on the 7765-ST-60651 offers durability and a sporty look, secured by a deployant clasp known for its security and ease of use. The black calfskin strap on the rose gold PVD model (7765-PC5-20631) provides a supple feel and a more traditional, dressier appearance suitable for its aesthetic. The camel calfskin strap on the other anthracite dial model (7765-STC-60651) leans into a more relaxed, everyday style, offering a comfortable leather option that pairs well with casual wear. The use of traditional pin buckles on the leather strap models is standard and effective.



These chronographs appear tailored for a clientele that appreciates authenticity in design inspiration, seeking watches with balanced proportions and clear ties to horological history, but executed with modern reliability. They cater to individuals who value the mechanical complexity of a chronograph but prefer it presented in a refined, versatile package rather than an overly aggressive or tool-watch specific design. The blend of sporty elements like the tachymeter scale with the refined dial finishes and case size aims for broad appeal.



The Millesime collection, particularly with these new chronograph additions, successfully occupies a space that bridges the gap between respect for watchmaking heritage and the demands of contemporary life. They offer a considered and stylish interpretation of the modern chronograph, balancing form and function without resorting to overly complex or niche designs. They represent Raymond Weil's distinctive approach – creating watches that are visually appealing, mechanically sound, and positioned at a relatively accessible price point within the Swiss watch industry.



The attention to detail evident in elements like the glassbox crystal, the sector dial layout with its varied finishes (snailed, brushed), and the application of Super-LumiNova® contributes to the overall perceived quality. The combination of brushed and potentially polished finishes on the case, along with the signed crown, further enhances the tactile and visual experience, suggesting a level of craftsmanship aligned with the brand's positioning.



Regarding availability and cost, all three Raymond Weil Millesime Automatic Tri-Compax Chronograph models are slated for release in mid-April 2025. The pricing structure reflects the different materials and strap/bracelet configurations. The stainless steel model with the camel leather strap (7765-STC-60651) is priced at $3,625.00. The stainless steel version on the matching steel bracelet (7765-ST-60651) comes in slightly higher at $3,725.00. The model featuring the stainless steel case with rose gold PVD coating and a black leather strap (7765-PC5-20631) carries the highest price tag of the trio at $3,775.00. These price points position them competitively within the market for Swiss-made automatic chronographs.



Anthracite Dial / Steel Bracelet



Case: Stainless steel, 39 mm diameter, 12.9 mm thickness. Round shape. Snapped case back with sapphire crystal. Water resistance 50 m (165 ft, 5 atm). Glassbox sapphire crystal with dual-sided anti-reflective coating. Fluted crown with RW monogram.

Movement: RW5030 mechanical chronograph self-winding movement. 62-hour power reserve. Caliber height 4.6 mm. Tri-compax layout.

Dial: Reverse panda style. Anthracite sector dial with vertical brush center, snailed minute track. Silver counters. Rose gold shade Super-LumiNova® indexes and obelisk hands. Tachymeter scale.

Strap: Stainless steel bracelet. Stainless steel folding clasp with double push-security system.

Price: $3,725.00

Reference Number: 7765-ST-60651

Notes: Features a vintage-inspired glassbox sapphire crystal and reverse panda dial layout. All stainless steel construction. Available Mid-April 2025.





Black Dial / Rose Gold PVD / Leather Strap



Case: Stainless steel with rose gold PVD coating, 39 mm diameter, 12.9 mm thickness. Round shape. Snapped case back with sapphire crystal. Water resistance 50 m (165 ft, 5 atm). Glassbox sapphire crystal with dual-sided anti-reflective coating. Fluted crown with RW monogram.

Movement: RW5030 mechanical chronograph self-winding movement. 62-hour power reserve. Caliber height 4.6 mm. Tri-compax layout.

Dial: Reverse panda style. Black sector dial with vertical brush center, snailed minute track. White counters. White Super-LumiNova® indexes and obelisk hands. White tachymeter scale.

Strap: Black genuine calf leather strap. Stainless steel traditional buckle (likely PVD coated).

Price: $3,775.00

Reference Number: 7765-PC5-20631

Notes: Features a rose gold PVD coated case for a warmer look, paired with a classic black leather strap. Vintage-inspired glassbox crystal. Available Mid-April 2025.





Anthracite Dial / Leather Strap



Case: Stainless steel, 39 mm diameter, 12.9 mm thickness. Round shape. Snapped case back with sapphire crystal. Water resistance 50 m (165 ft, 5 atm). Glassbox sapphire crystal with dual-sided anti-reflective coating. Fluted crown with RW monogram.

Movement: RW5030 mechanical chronograph self-winding movement. 62-hour power reserve. Caliber height 4.6 mm. Tri-compax layout.

Dial: Reverse panda style. Anthracite sector dial with vertical brush center, snailed minute track. Silver counters. Rose gold shade Super-LumiNova® indexes and obelisk hands. Tachymeter scale.

Strap: Camel genuine calf leather strap. Stainless steel traditional buckle.

Price: $3,625.00

Reference Number: 7765-STC-60651

Notes: Combines the anthracite reverse panda dial with a casual camel leather strap. Features the vintage-inspired glassbox crystal. Available Mid-April 2025.