Parmigiani Fleurier consistently charts its own course in the intricate landscape of Swiss watchmaking. Rather than simply following established trends, the manufacture often delves into the demanding realms of material science and mechanical ingenuity. The introduction of the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet duo stands as a prime example of this pioneering spirit, marking a significant advancement not just for the brand, but for the application of avant-garde materials within the luxury watch sector. These new chronographs represent a bold exploration into uncharted territory, utilising a material previously unseen in such comprehensive application on a timepiece.
The story of
Parmigiani Fleurier is intrinsically linked to its founder, Michel Parmigiani. A master watchmaker with a profound background in the restoration of historical timepieces, Parmigiani established his eponymous brand in 1996 with the backing of the Sandoz Family Foundation. This foundation in restoration instilled a deep respect for traditional craftsmanship, precision, and horological artistry. However, this respect for the past was always coupled with a forward-looking vision, driving the brand to develop its own unique aesthetic codes and, crucially, its own technically advanced in-house movements and innovative material applications, ensuring complete independence in its creative and manufacturing processes.
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The Tonda PF collection, introduced more recently in the brand's history, quickly established itself as a cornerstone. It embodies a specific vision of understated sporty sophistication, characterized by integrated bracelets or straps, the signature fluted bezel, and a focus on refined details and ergonomic design. The collection successfully balances a casual appeal with the high-end finishing and mechanical prowess expected from the manufacture. The new Ultra-Cermet models build upon this successful foundation, pushing the boundaries of the Tonda PF Sport line into a new technological dimension while retaining its core design language.
In recent years, high-tech materials have increasingly found their way into watchmaking, with ceramic and various forms of carbon fiber becoming relatively common, especially in sports watches, valued for their lightness and scratch resistance. Parmigiani Fleurier, however, sought something beyond the existing options. The result of a dedicated three-year development process is Cermet – a material poised to redefine expectations. The name itself, a portmanteau of CERamic and METal, hints at its hybrid nature, designed to combine the most desirable properties of both material families into a single, high-performance composite.
Delving deeper into Cermet reveals a sophisticated composite material. It's specifically formulated as a precise alloy combining titanium with ceramic components. The manufacturing process is exacting, demanding an extreme selection of fine powders, likened by the brand to the meticulous refinement needed for producing high-grade sake. This careful composition yields remarkable physical properties. Cermet boasts exceptional hardness, measuring 1450 on the Vickers scale (HV), granting it superior scratch resistance compared to traditional metals. Simultaneously, it leverages the metallic component (titanium) to maintain relative lightness, avoiding the density sometimes associated with pure ceramics.
The impressive characteristics of Cermet are not merely theoretical; they have practical applications in some of the most demanding fields. This alloy is utilized in aerospace engineering and other cutting-edge technological sectors where components must withstand extreme conditions, high temperatures, and significant wear while remaining lightweight. Its adoption by Parmigiani Fleurier brings this aerospace-grade performance to the wrist, signaling a commitment to utilising materials engineered for ultimate durability and resilience in a luxury context.
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What truly sets the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet apart is the extent of its application. While other brands might use advanced materials for bezels or case components, Parmigiani Fleurier achieves a world first by crafting the entire watch exterior from Cermet. This includes the main case body, the intricately fluted bezel, the crown, the chronograph pushers, and even the pin buckle securing the strap. This comprehensive use demonstrates a mastery over the challenging machining and finishing processes required for this advanced composite, representing a significant manufacturing feat.
The case construction itself is a testament to the complexity involved. Measuring a contemporary 42.5 mm in diameter and 13.3 mm in thickness, its form required meticulous engineering. The assembly process involves 72 distinct components and reportedly takes a full day to complete for each watch, highlighting the precision required to work with Cermet at this scale. The resulting case features a distinctive satin-polished anthracite finish, a deep grey that interacts intriguingly with light.
Visually, the watch presents a compelling blend of technical modernity and refined sportiness. The dark anthracite hue of the Cermet case provides a strong, almost monolithic foundation. The signature Parmigiani Fleurier fluted bezel, also rendered in Cermet, adds a touch of texture and visual interest, catching light differently than the satin-finished case surfaces. The overall impression is one of purposeful design, where the material itself is central to the aesthetic appeal, offering subtle metallic reflections that shift with the viewing angle, yet maintaining a sophisticated, almost minimalist character despite its technical complexity.
Beyond the visual, Cermet offers a unique tactile experience. The material possesses a distinct coolness to the touch, a characteristic sensation that adds an unexpected sensory dimension when handling and wearing the watch. This physical property, stemming from the material's thermal conductivity, differentiates it immediately from steel, titanium, or traditional ceramics. The fine structure inherent in the Cermet composite also contributes to its unique interaction with light, creating a subtle visual depth that enhances its luxurious feel without overt ornamentation.
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Two distinct dial variations are offered, adding personality to the Cermet framework. The first, designated "Milano Blue" (PFC931-1020022-400182), features a base dial treated with Blackor. This proprietary process involves a 9-carat gold-nickel deposit, resulting in a rich, grey-black surface with a satin finish. Against this backdrop, the chronograph subdials, minute track accents, and the integrated rubber strap are rendered in a vibrant "Milano Blue," providing striking contrast and a decidedly sporty feel. The applied hour markers, crafted from 18-carat gold and plated with Blackor, along with the Delta-shaped hour and minute hands, ensure coherence with the case's dark tones.
The second version, "London Grey" (PFC931-1020021-400182), employs the same Blackor-treated grey-black base dial and 18-carat gold Blackor-plated indices and hands. However, the contrasting elements – the subdials, minute track details, and the integrated strap – are presented in a subtle, sophisticated "London Grey." This execution offers a more monochromatic and perhaps more understated look compared to the blue variant, emphasizing the interplay of textures and the metallic sheen of the Cermet case and Blackor dial elements.
Readability remains paramount in a chronograph. The dial layout features chronograph counters positioned logically, and the contrast provided by either the Milano Blue or London Grey accents against the dark Blackor dial facilitates quick reading of both time and elapsed chronograph measurements. The use of Delta-shaped hands, partially skeletonized and filled with luminescent material (though not explicitly stated, typical for sports models), aids low-light visibility. Protecting the dial is a sapphire crystal treated with an ARunic anti-reflective coating, minimizing glare and maximizing clarity.
Powering these innovative timepieces is the Calibre PF070-CSND, an exceptional movement developed and manufactured in-house by Parmigiani Fleurier. Crucially, this is an integrated chronograph calibre, meaning it was designed from the ground up with the chronograph complication built into its architecture, rather than being a base movement with an added module. This approach is generally favoured by purists for its technical elegance and potentially slimmer profile.
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The performance specifications of the PF070-CSND are impressive. It operates at a high frequency of 5 Hertz, which translates to 36,000 vibrations per hour (Vph). This high beat rate allows the chronograph seconds hand to move more smoothly and enables the measurement of time down to 1/10th of a second, enhancing precision. Furthermore, the movement is COSC-certified (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres), guaranteeing its accuracy and reliability meet stringent independent standards. Despite the high frequency, which typically consumes more energy, the calibre boasts a substantial power reserve of 65 hours.
Visible through the sapphire crystal case back (which features a ruby cabochon setting detail), the PF070-CSND showcases Parmigiani Fleurier's commitment to fine finishing, even within a sporty context. The movement features automatic winding via a skeletonized oscillating weight crafted from 22-carat rose gold, adding a touch of warmth and luxury. The bridges are openworked and feature a satin finish, complemented by hand-beveled edges (anglage), a hallmark of high-end watchmaking that requires significant skill. Comprising 288 components and running on 42 jewels, the movement measures 30.6 mm in diameter and 6.95 mm in thickness. It incorporates a column wheel mechanism, considered a more refined solution for controlling the chronograph functions (start, stop, reset) compared to cam-actuated systems.
Complementing the advanced case material and sophisticated dial are integrated straps designed to flow seamlessly from the lugs. These straps feature a textured pattern reminiscent of woven fabric and are colour-matched to the dial accents – Milano Blue for one model, London Grey for the other. This integration enhances the cohesive and sporty look of the watch. Securing the strap is a pin buckle, also crafted from Cermet, ensuring material consistency throughout the watch's exterior. A small, refined detail mentioned is a ruby cabochon set somewhere on the bracelet/strap assembly, likely near the buckle or case connection, adding a subtle jeweled touch.
In terms of wearability, the 42.5 mm diameter places the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet firmly in the category of modern sports watches, offering substantial presence without being overly cumbersome for most wrists. The relative lightness of the Cermet and titanium construction, compared to steel, should contribute positively to comfort during extended wear. The 100-meter water resistance rating adds a layer of practicality, ensuring the watch can handle daily exposure to moisture and is suitable for swimming and surface water sports, reinforcing its "Sport" designation.
Parmigiani Fleurier positions these watches for a specific type of enthusiast: one who values not only traditional craftsmanship but also actively seeks out technological innovation and a distinct style that stands apart from more common luxury offerings. The Ultra-Cermet models are presented as a choice for individuals who appreciate functional design and cutting-edge materials, seeing them as expressions of a forward-thinking approach to watchmaking. It’s about pushing boundaries in the pursuit of excellence, where the material itself becomes a statement.
Courtesy of Parmigiani Fleurier
The introduction of the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet represents a recontextualization of luxury in watchmaking. Here, value is derived not solely from precious metals or intricate gem-setting, but significantly from the mastery of advanced materials science and the technical achievement of incorporating Cermet so comprehensively. It fuses Parmigiani Fleurier’s horological heritage with a bold, futuristic vision, where innovation in materials is a defining characteristic of distinction.
For those captivated by this blend of high-tech materials and horological artistry, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet is priced at CHF 39,900 for both the Milano Blue (PFC931-1020022-400182) and London Grey (PFC931-1020021-400182) versions. Prospective owners should note that availability is slated for June 2025. Reflecting the confidence in its manufacturing quality, Parmigiani Fleurier provides a three-year international warranty against manufacturing defects for these timepieces.
Case: Entirely Cermet (case, fluted bezel, crown, pushers). Ø 42.5 MM diameter, 13.3 MM thickness. Satin-polished anthracite finish. ARunic anti-reflective sapphire crystal. Sapphire case back with Ruby cabochon set. Water resistant to 100 meters.
Movement: Calibre PF070-CSND, automatic winding integrated chronograph. COSC-certified. High frequency 5 Hz (36,000 Vph). 65-hour power reserve. 288 components, 42 jewels. Ø 30.6 MM diameter, 6.95 MM thickness. Features column wheel, 22ct rose gold skeletonized rotor, hand-finished bridges.
Dial: Blackor treated (9ct gold-nickel deposit) base with satin finish. 18ct gold blackor-plated appliqué indices. Delta-shaped hands. Available with Milano Blue accents or London Grey accents.
Strap: Integrated textured rubber strap matching dial accents (Milano Blue or London Grey). Cermet pin buckle. Features a Ruby cabochon set detail.
Price: CHF 39,900.
Reference Number: PFC931-1020022-400182 (Milano Blue), PFC931-1020021-400182 (London Grey).
Notes: World's first timepiece with case, bezel, crown, pushers, and buckle entirely made from Cermet (ceramic-titanium alloy). Cermet offers high scratch resistance (1450 HV) and lightness. Available from June 2025.