Omega, a brand synonymous with precision, innovation, and adventure, has a history intertwined with some of humanity's greatest achievements. From timing Olympic Games to accompanying astronauts on their journeys to the moon, Omega has consistently pushed the boundaries of what's possible. The Speedmaster, in particular, holds a special place in the hearts of watch enthusiasts and space exploration aficionados alike. Its role in all six lunar missions has cemented its status as an icon, a testament to human ingenuity and the relentless pursuit of exploration. This watch is no different, except that the briliance is shown at first sight.
The new Speedmaster Calibre 321 Full Platinum is a tribute to this incredible legacy, but with a twist of unparalleled luxury. This isn't just a reissue of a classic; it's a reimagining, a bold statement that elevates the Speedmaster to new heights of opulence. The watch is crafted from a special platinum alloy, Pt950Au20, which incorporates gold, lending it a distinctive weight and an undeniable feeling of substance on the wrist. Platinum, known for its rarity and resistance to corrosion, gives the watch a luster, that is brilliant from far away.
Courtesy of Omega
The 42mm case, a size that strikes a balance between presence and wearability, houses the legendary Calibre 321 movement. This isn't a modern approximation; it's a faithful recreation of the original Calibre 321, built using the original specifications. This movement, famously worn on the moon, is a manual-winding chronograph with a column-wheel mechanism, a feature cherished by collectors for its smooth and precise operation. The fact that Omega has resurrected this movement, with each one meticulously assembled by a single watchmaker in a dedicated workshop, speaks volumes about their commitment to preserving horological heritage.
One of the most captivating aspects of this Speedmaster is the ability to view the Calibre 321 in all its glory through the sapphire-crystal caseback. The movement, with its 18K Sedna gold PVD coated finish, is a sight to behold, a symphony of gears, levers, and bridges working in perfect harmony. It's a reminder that, at its heart, a mechanical watch is a miniature engine, a testament to human ingenuity and craftsmanship. The transparent back allows the wearer to feel closer to the watch.
Courtesy of Omega
Moving to the dial, we encounter another element that sets this Speedmaster apart: the step dial in black onyx. This deep, lustrous black provides a striking contrast to the applied 18K white gold indexes and hands. The vintage Omega logo, also in 18K white gold, adds a touch of nostalgia, harking back to the golden age of space exploration. The layout is clean, legible, and instantly recognizable as a Speedmaster, but with a level of refinement that elevates it above the ordinary.
But the dial holds a secret, a detail that truly makes this watch extraordinary: the three subdials are crafted from actual lunar meteorite. Each subdial is a tiny slice of a celestial body that has traveled through space and time to land on Earth. This connection to the moon, the very destination that made the Speedmaster famous, is more than just a design element; it's a tangible link to the spirit of exploration and adventure. The unquie lunar meteorite is almost a statement of luxury.
The black ceramic bezel, with its white enamel tachymeter scale, is another nod to the Speedmaster's functional heritage. The tachymeter, a scale used to measure speed based on time traveled over a fixed distance, is a hallmark of chronograph watches and a reminder of the Speedmaster's racing and aviation roots. The use of ceramic, a material known for its scratch resistance and durability, ensures that the bezel will retain its pristine appearance for years to come. It almost allows the wearer to put their mind at ease when it comes to worrying about damaging the watch.
Courtesy of Omega
This exceptional timepiece is presented on a polished and brushed platinum bracelet, perfectly complementing the case. The clasp features a vintage Omega logo, a subtle detail that adds to the watch's overall sense of heritage. The bracelet not only enhances the luxurious feel of the watch but also ensures a comfortable and secure fit on the wrist. The platinum carries the theme of the case down the wrist, and allows for the beautiful metal to be seen at all angles.
The technical specifications of the watch are as impressive as its aesthetics. The Calibre 321 movement boasts a 55-hour power reserve, ensuring that the watch will keep ticking even if not worn for a couple of days. The watch is water-resistant to 5 bar (50 meters / 165 feet), making it suitable for everyday wear, although one might hesitate to take such a precious timepiece for a swim. The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, ensures optimal legibility in all lighting conditions. The platinum case speaks for itself.
The Calibre Omega 321 is a manual-winding chronograph movement, the re-birth of the original 321. It has a column wheel mechanism, a feature that allows the user to admire more of the movement in the caseback. The original 321 was a descendant of the 27 CHRO C12, an enhanced chronograph movement. The 321 was the choice movement for the missions to space, used by NASA astronauts. The 321 was followed up by the 861 from 1968 to 1997. The 861 was a modified version of the 321, including a flat balance-spring and the replacement of the column-wheel by a shuttle cam, making the watch more consistent. The frequency was increased to 21,600 v/h to improve precision. The 1861 was the next rendition, used in many Moonwatch models. The 1861 made use of rhodium plating for greater stability, and the same shuttle cam and chronograph brake. Omega worked in secrecy for two years to come out with a perfect match of the 1861 dimensions and achieve Master Chronometer certification. Finally releasing the 3861 in 2019, improving on power reserve, performance and magnetic resistance and included OMEGA’s Co-Axial escapement and silicon Si14 balance spring.
Courtesy of Omega
The Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 Stainless steel, a different watch in the 321 line, shares some similarities with the Platinum version, but is made of stainless steel. The stainless steel version takes inspiration from the style of the 3rd generation style watches worn on the first spacewalk in 1965. This model features a polished black ceramic bezel, a tachymeter scale in white enamel and a black step dial. To add to the history, the steel 321 includes the classic ‘Dot over 90’ on the bezel.
Inside Omega's workshop, every Calibre 321 is created inside OMEGA’s Calibre 321 Workshop. This workshop is only used for the iconic movement, and all of the steps are performed by the same watchmaker. This ensures that each new calibre is just as precise and legendary as the original, with the attention to detail from the watchmaker.
The platinum material is known for its rarity, shine, and white color. It is a strong metal, which is corrosion resistant. Omega uses 950 platinum, offering a unique feel, unlike any other metal. Omega has also used ceramics in many other watches. Ceramics originate from the Greek word "keramos", an inorganic substance obtained by firing at high temperatures. The ceramic parts are very dense, and have exceptional mechanical properties. They are two times lighter than steel, are very hardwearing, highly scratch-resistant, chemically inert, hypoallergenic, and non-magnetic. Omega has been using ceramics for over 10 years.
Courtesy of Omega
The watch's design, materials, and craftsmanship all speak to a level of quality that is rarely seen. From the meticulously finished movement to the unique lunar meteorite subdials, every detail has been carefully considered and executed to perfection. It's a watch that embodies the Omega spirit, a commitment to precision, innovation, and enduring style. The caseback that shows off the movement brings excitement to the wearer.
The Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 Full Platinum is priced at $96,900, reflecting its exclusivity and the exceptional materials and craftsmanship involved in its creation. Availability is likely to be limited, given the intricate nature of the Calibre 321 movement and the meticulous production process. This is a watch for the serious collector, the individual who appreciates the history and legacy of the Speedmaster and desires a timepiece that represents the pinnacle of horological artistry.
Case: 42 mm diameter, 13.4 mm thickness, 47.6 mm lug-to-lug, 20 mm between lugs. Crafted from a special platinum alloy with gold (Pt950Au20). Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides. Water resistance of 5 bar (50 meters / 165 feet).
Movement: Omega Calibre 321, manual-winding chronograph movement. Column-wheel mechanism, Breguet balance-spring. 18K Sedna gold PVD coated finish. 55-hour power reserve. Frequency of 2.5 Hz. Reborn for today using the original specifications.
Dial: Black onyx step dial. 18K white gold indexes and most hands. Vintage Omega logo in 18K white gold. Three subdials formed from lunar meteorite. Black ceramic bezel with white enamel tachymeter scale.
Strap: Polished and brushed platinum bracelet. Foldover clasp type. Vintage Omega logo on clasp.
Price: $96,900
Reference Number: 311.90.42.30.99.002
Notes: The watch houses the iconic OMEGA Calibre 321, a movement that has been reborn using original specifications. The subdials are crafted from lunar meteorite. It was a part of all six lunar missions.