NOMOS Tangente and Orion neomatik dore

Embracing Gold

Words by: Hourstriker Staff
October 17, 2024
NOMOS Glashütte, the German watchmaking powerhouse known for its Bauhaus-inspired designs and impressive in-house movements, has once again captured the attention of enthusiasts with the introduction of the Tangente and Orion neomatik doré. These two new models, while rooted in the classic Tangente and Orion lines, offer a fresh perspective with subtle yet impactful golden accents.



The term "doré," French for "gilded," perfectly encapsulates the essence of these timepieces. More than just a description of color, it evokes a sense of refinement and understated luxury. NOMOS, typically associated with clean, minimalist aesthetics, has ventured into the realm of gold sparingly in the past. When they have, the results have been undeniably captivating, and the neomatik doré models are no exception.

Courtesy of NOMOS


Both the Tangente and Orion neomatik doré are exemplary dress watches, characterized by their slender profiles and elegant simplicity. The white silver-plated dials provide a crisp backdrop for the golden hands and indices, creating a harmonious contrast that is both striking and refined. At the heart of each watch beats the ultra-thin automatic caliber DUW 3001, a testament to NOMOS's dedication to horological excellence.



The Orion neomatik doré, with its signature rounded case and flowing lugs, embodies a sense of classicism and understated luxury. The golden accents add a touch of warmth and sophistication, elevating the design without compromising its minimalist appeal. This is a watch that whispers rather than shouts, exuding an air of quiet confidence that is sure to resonate with discerning collectors.



The Tangente neomatik doré, on the other hand, takes a slightly bolder approach. While still adhering to the Tangente's iconic design language of straight lines and sharp angles, the golden hands introduce a touch of unexpected flair. This juxtaposition of classic and contemporary elements creates a dynamic tension that makes the watch both familiar and refreshingly new.



Imagine yourself slipping the Tangente neomatik doré onto your wrist. The smooth leather strap embraces your skin, while the cool stainless steel case provides a reassuring weight. As you glance at the dial, your eyes are drawn to the interplay of light and shadow on the white silver-plated surface. The golden hands, slender and elegant, trace their paths with precision, marking the passage of time with quiet grace. The sub-seconds dial, nestled discreetly above the six o'clock marker, adds a touch of visual interest without disrupting the overall harmony of the design.



Now, picture the Orion neomatik doré. The gently curved case, reminiscent of a smooth pebble, sits comfortably on your wrist. The domed sapphire crystal glass, both front and back, creates a captivating play of light, inviting you to peer into the intricate mechanics within. The golden indices, meticulously applied to the dial, catch the light with every subtle movement, adding a touch of sparkle to the otherwise understated design.

Courtesy of NOMOS


These two watches, while sharing a common thread of understated elegance, offer distinct personalities. The Orion, with its flowing lines and harmonious proportions, exudes a sense of timeless sophistication. The Tangente, with its bold geometry and unexpected golden accents, presents a more contemporary take on classic design. Whether your taste leans towards classicism or modernity, there is a neomatik doré model that is sure to capture your imagination.



But the beauty of these watches extends beyond their aesthetics. Inside each case beats the remarkable DUW 3001 caliber, a testament to NOMOS's commitment to innovation and horological excellence. This ultra-thin automatic movement, developed entirely in-house, represents a significant achievement in watchmaking.



The creation of DUW 3001 was a long and meticulous process, requiring countless hours of research and development. The result is a movement that is not only incredibly thin, measuring a mere 3.2 millimeters in height, but also highly precise and reliable. This exceptional caliber is a key component of what makes the Tangente and Orion neomatik doré such compelling timepieces.



Another noteworthy feature of these watches is the Nomos swing system, the company's proprietary escapement. This innovative component, which replaces the traditional Swiss lever escapement, is a testament to NOMOS's dedication to independence and watchmaking prowess. By producing their own escapement, NOMOS has achieved a level of vertical integration that is rare in the industry, allowing them to maintain strict quality control and ensure the long-term serviceability of their watches.



The Tangente neomatik doré, priced at $3,460, is a study in contrasts, seamlessly blending the Tangente's signature austerity with a touch of understated opulence. The 35-millimeter stainless steel case, with its clean lines and sharply angled lugs, is a quintessential example of Bauhaus design principles. It's a case that commands attention without being overly assertive, its form following function with unwavering precision.

Courtesy of NOMOS


Beneath the domed sapphire crystal glass, the white silver-plated dial provides a crisp canvas for the Tangente's distinctive typography. The slender black numerals and indices, hallmarks of the Tangente design, stand in stark contrast to the golden hands, creating a dynamic interplay of light and dark, classic and contemporary. This subtle yet significant addition of gold elevates the Tangente's aesthetic, adding a touch of warmth and sophistication to its otherwise austere persona.



The off-center sub-seconds dial, a hallmark of the Tangente collection, is recessed and azurized, adding a touch of depth and texture to the dial. This traditional technique, often found in high-end watchmaking, involves creating a fine concentric pattern on the sub-dial, giving it a subtle shimmer that catches the light with every movement.



Turning the watch over, we are greeted by the sapphire crystal glass case back, which offers an unobstructed view of the DUW 3001 caliber within. This meticulously finished movement, with its Glashütte ribbing, blued screws, and tempered blue balance spring, is a testament to NOMOS's dedication to horological craftsmanship.



The Tangente neomatik doré is a watch that seamlessly transitions from day to night, from casual to formal. Its versatility is a testament to its well-considered design, which balances classic elements with contemporary touches. Whether paired with a crisp white shirt and tailored suit or a simple t-shirt and jeans, the Tangente neomatik doré is sure to make a statement.



The Orion neomatik doré, priced at $3,580, takes a different approach, embracing a more curvaceous and organic aesthetic. The 36.4-millimeter stainless steel case, with its gently rounded bezel and flowing lugs, is a study in harmonious proportions. It's a watch that feels incredibly comfortable on the wrist, its smooth contours conforming to the natural shape of the arm.

Courtesy of NOMOS


The white silver-plated dial, like its Tangente counterpart, provides a clean backdrop for the golden accents. However, in the Orion, the gold takes center stage, with both the hands and indices rendered in this precious metal. The indices, embossed and diamond-polished, catch the light with every subtle movement, adding a touch of sparkle to the otherwise understated design.



The sub-seconds dial, located above the six o'clock marker, is seamlessly integrated into the dial, maintaining the Orion's clean and uncluttered aesthetic. Even the dot detail at the center of the sub-dial is rendered in gold, a testament to NOMOS's attention to detail.



Flipping the watch over, we are once again treated to a view of the DUW 3001 caliber through the sapphire crystal glass case back. This movement, shared by both the Tangente and Orion neomatik doré, is a marvel of micro-engineering, its slender profile and impressive performance setting a new standard for automatic movements.



The Orion neomatik doré is a watch that exudes refinement and understated luxury. Its harmonious proportions, subtle golden accents, and exceptional movement make it a true dress watch icon. Whether worn for a special occasion or as an everyday companion, the Orion neomatik doré is sure to impress with its quiet confidence and impeccable craftsmanship.



Both the Tangente and Orion neomatik doré are powered by the DUW 3001 caliber, an in-house automatic movement that represents a significant achievement in watchmaking. This ultra-thin caliber, measuring just 3.2 millimeters in height, allows for exceptionally slender case designs without compromising performance or reliability.



The development of DUW 3001 was a long and meticulous process, requiring countless hours of research and development. NOMOS engineers focused on optimizing every aspect of the movement, from the gear train to the winding mechanism, to achieve the perfect balance of thinness, precision, and efficiency.



One of the key innovations of DUW 3001 is the NOMOS swing system, the company's proprietary escapement. This crucial component, which regulates the flow of energy from the mainspring to the balance wheel, is typically sourced from external suppliers. However, NOMOS took the bold step of developing their own escapement, allowing them to achieve a level of vertical integration that is rare in the industry.

Courtesy of NOMOS


The NOMOS swing system not only ensures the accuracy and reliability of the movement but also represents a significant milestone in the company's pursuit of horological independence. By producing their own escapement, NOMOS has demonstrated their commitment to innovation and their ability to compete with the biggest names in the watchmaking world.



The Tangente and Orion neomatik doré are more than just watches; they are symbols of NOMOS's unwavering dedication to quality, craftsmanship, and innovation. These timepieces, with their subtle golden accents, exceptional movements, and distinctive designs, represent a new chapter in the NOMOS story, one that builds upon the company's rich heritage while pushing the boundaries of horological excellence.
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