Moser Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy

Red Gold and Refinement

Words by: Hourstriker Staff
January 29, 2025
In the world of fine watchmaking, H. Moser & Cie. stands as a beacon of innovation and independent spirit. The recently unveiled Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is a testament to the brand's dedication to pushing boundaries while honoring traditional craftsmanship. This timepiece isn't just another entry in the luxury watch market; it's a bold statement, a blend of rugged durability and sophisticated design, captured in a stunning 5N red gold case. The Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is designed to be an everyday companion, but make no mistake it is not an everyday watch.

Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.


H. Moser & Cie., a name synonymous with ingenuity, was born in 1828 from the vision of Heinrich Moser. Based in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, Switzerland, the company has grown into a powerhouse of horological expertise. With over 90 dedicated employees, 18 in-house calibers to its name, and an annual production of approximately 4,000 watches, Moser has carved a unique niche for itself in the industry. One of its remarkable feats is the development of its own regulating organs and balance springs, thanks to its sister company Precision Engineering AG. This vertical integration ensures an unparalleled level of quality control and allows Moser to push the envelope of what's possible in watchmaking. This is the beauty of a brand that is part of a family group such as MELB Holding. Their independence means the freedom to innovate in the spirit of freedom, while holding tight to their heritage.



The Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is an embodiment of this very spirit. Its 40mm 5N red gold case exudes a warmth that is both inviting and commanding. The watch’s aesthetic presence is hard to ignore. The warm tone of the gold case is a welcome departure from the more common stainless steel or platinum found in many luxury timepieces. It's a choice that speaks to a desire for something different, something that stands out without being ostentatious. The case is crafted with meticulous care, each curve and angle reflecting light in a way that highlights the material's inherent beauty. The case height is also worth noting at 10.4mm without the crystal, making this one of the thinner tourbillons on the market. This not only allows for better wearability, but speaks volumes to the engineering capabilities of the H. Moser team. It is a true achievement.

Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.


The dial is where the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy truly shines, literally. The fumé technique, a signature of Moser, is employed here to stunning effect. The Burgundy fumé dial is a deep, rich hue that transitions from a vibrant center to a darker, almost black, edge. This gradient effect gives the dial a sense of depth and dynamism. The way the light plays off the fumé dial creates an ever-changing display of color and texture, making it a pleasure to look at in any environment. This isn't just a flat surface; it's a canvas that seems to come alive with every shift of light, thanks to the sunburst pattern that adds another layer of visual interest. Its subtle texture adds another layer of visual interest, a subtle touch that elevates the overall aesthetic.



Adding to the dial's allure are the faceted applique indices and leaf-shaped hands. These elements are not merely functional; they are design choices that enhance the watch's readability and aesthetic appeal. The hands are generously filled with Super-LumiNova, ensuring that the time can be easily read even in low-light conditions. This practical consideration is a nod to the watch's "Pioneer" moniker, suggesting a timepiece that's ready for any adventure. The H. Moser & Cie. logo is cleverly applied in transparent lacquer, a subtle branding element that doesn't detract from the overall design. It's a detail that might be missed at first glance but, once noticed, adds to the appreciation of the watch's sophisticated design.

Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.


But the visual allure of the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is only part of the story. At its heart lies the HMC 805 automatic caliber, a movement that is as impressive technically as it is beautiful. The HMC 805 automatic Manufacture calibre is the evolution of the HMC 804, which it replaces. The HMC 805 offers a wider opening onto the mechanism through partially skeletonised bridges. Combined with a highly contemporary anthracite grey finish. This opening allows the gear train and bi-directional automatic winding system wheels to be viewed. The rotor has also been bevelled so as to not obstruct the view of the movement. This calibre is a testament to Moser's technical prowess, featuring a flying tourbillon with a double hairspring. This intricate mechanism, visible through the aperture at 6 o'clock, is a marvel of micro-engineering. The tourbillon is a device designed to counteract the effects of gravity on the watch's accuracy. The HMC 805 features an original double hairspring that is extremely impressive. The tourbillon cage rotates continuously, a mesmerizing dance that showcases the precision and artistry of watchmaking at its finest. The double hairspring, a technical feat in itself, further enhances the movement's accuracy and isochronism. The tourbillon, often considered one of the most challenging complications to master, is presented here not as a mere technical achievement, but as a visual spectacle. The skeletonized bridge that supports the tourbillon adds to its allure, allowing the wearer to appreciate the intricate workings of the movement.



The technical specifications of the HMC 805 caliber are impressive. It beats at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour and boasts a power reserve of at least 3 days, which is impressive for a tourbillon watch, thanks to the bi-directional pawl winding system. The movement is not just about performance; it's also about aesthetics. The anthracite finish with Moser double stripes adds a modern touch to the traditional complication, while the partially skeletonized bridges offer a glimpse into the inner workings of the watch. It’s a harmonious blend of form and function. The skeletonized oscillating weight in 18-carat red gold is another detail that showcases Moser's commitment to excellence. Each component is finished to the highest standards, reflecting the brand's dedication to craftsmanship.

Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.


The choice of an olive green rubber strap for the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy might seem unconventional for a watch of this caliber, but it's a decision that perfectly aligns with the watch's adventurous spirit. The strap is made from a high-quality rubber that is both comfortable and durable. It's a practical choice for a watch that's designed to be worn in a variety of settings, from the boardroom to the great outdoors. The 5N red gold clasp, engraved with the H. Moser logo, adds a touch of luxury to the otherwise sporty strap. The strap is not just about practicality; it's also about style. The khaki color complements the warm tones of the red gold case and the burgundy dial, creating a cohesive and visually appealing package. This strap not only provides comfort and durability but also adds a touch of ruggedness to the overall aesthetic, reinforcing the watch's adventurous spirit. It's a material that can withstand the rigors of daily wear, making it a practical choice for a watch that's meant to be worn, not just admired. For those who prefer a more traditional look, H. Moser & Cie. also offers the option of a hand-stitched alligator leather or textile strap, available separately. This flexibility allows the wearer to customize the watch to their personal style and preference.



The Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is water-resistant to 12 ATM, a remarkable feat for a tourbillon watch. This level of water resistance is usually reserved for dive watches, and it speaks to Moser's ambition to create a timepiece that can handle any situation. It's a watch that's equally at home in the ocean as it is in the boardroom, a testament to its versatility and robustness. This level of water resistance means that the watch can be worn while swimming, snorkeling, or even diving to shallow depths. It's a feature that sets the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy apart from many other high-end watches, which often have limited water resistance.

Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.


The Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is a rare watch, not just in terms of its limited production, but also in its unique combination of features. It's a watch that defies easy categorization. It's a sports watch with a tourbillon, a luxury watch with a rubber strap, a technical masterpiece with a stunningly beautiful dial. It's a watch that's full of contradictions, and that's precisely what makes it so compelling. It represents a harmonious blend of traditional watchmaking techniques and modern design sensibilities. It's a watch that's sure to appeal to collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate both the technical and aesthetic aspects of horology.



The Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is priced at CHF 59,900, positioning it within the realm of high-end luxury watches. While this is undoubtedly a significant price tag, it's important to consider the watch's unique features, exceptional craftsmanship, and the exclusivity that comes with owning a timepiece from an independent brand like H. Moser & Cie. It is available for purchase through authorized H. Moser & Cie. retailers and directly from the brand's boutiques.



Case: 5N red gold. Diameter of 40.0 mm. Height without sapphire crystal is 10.4 mm; height with sapphire crystal is 12.0 mm. Domed sapphire crystal and see-through case-back. Screw-in crown adorned with an "M". Water-resistant to 12 ATM.



Movement: HMC 805 automatic Manufacture calibre. Diameter of 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes. Height of 5.5 mm. Frequency of 21,600 vibrations/hour. Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system. Skeletonised oscillating weight in 18-carat red gold with engraved H. Moser & Cie. logo. Power reserve of minimum 3 days. Original double hairspring. One-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o'clock with skeletonised bridge. Anthracite finish with Moser double stripes. Partially skeletonised bridges.



Dial: Burgundy fumé with sunburst pattern. H. Moser & Cie. logo in transparent lacquer. Faceted applique indices, with hour markers in Super-Luminova®. Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, filled with Super-LumiNova®.



Strap: Rubber strap (hand-stitched alligator leather or textile also available separately). 5N red gold clasp, engraved with the H. Moser logo.



Price: CHF 59,900



Reference Number: 3805-0400



Notes: The HMC 805 automatic Manufacture calibre replaces the HMC 804. The double hairspring is a rare feature that improves accuracy and isochronism.
Copyright © 2023 hourstriker.com. All Rights Reserved.