H. Moser & Cie. presents a compelling fusion of traditional artistry and modern mechanical innovation with the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel. This timepiece stands out through its intensely colored dial and the sophisticated mechanics visible both front and back, offering a distinct perspective within the realm of high-end watchmaking. It represents a specific direction for the brand, emphasizing aesthetic purity alongside complex horological engineering.
The history of
H. Moser & Cie. dates back to 1828, founded by Heinrich Moser in St. Petersburg, Russia, before establishing operations in Switzerland. The company quickly gained recognition for its reliable and well-crafted pocket watches. After navigating various challenges through the 20th century, including the quartz crisis, the brand was revitalized in the early 2000s. Based in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, Switzerland, the modern iteration of H. Moser & Cie. prides itself on its independence and its commitment to developing and manufacturing its movements in-house, a significant feat for a manufacturer of its scale.
Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.
Currently employing around 120 individuals, H. Moser & Cie. maintains a relatively limited annual production of approximately 4,000 watches. This controlled output allows the company to focus meticulously on quality and craftsmanship. A key element of its independence and technical capability is its sister company, Precision Engineering AG (PEAG). Acquired by Moser Watch Holding in 2012, PEAG specializes in the design and production of critical movement components, including regulating organs and balance springs, supplying not only Moser but also other partner brands within the industry.
The Moser legacy is actively preserved through the Heinrich and Henri Moser Foundation, overseen by a Moser family member who serves as Honorary Chairman. The foundation aims to maintain the family's historical narrative and curates antique Moser timepieces for the Moser Museum, located in Charlottenfels Manor, Heinrich Moser's former family home. This connection to its origins provides a historical anchor for the brand's contemporary activities, which are further supported by MELB Holding, an independent family group invested in H. Moser & Cie., Hautlence, and Agenhor SA, known for its expertise in the watchmaking sector.
The "Concept" series from H. Moser & Cie. represents a deliberate move towards minimalism and essentialism in watch design. By stripping away elements often considered standard, such as logos and hour indices, the Concept watches place the unadulterated focus on the dial's color, texture, and finish, along with the inherent beauty of the watch's form and mechanics. This philosophy challenges conventional branding practices and allows the core aesthetic qualities of the timepiece to take center stage, appealing to those who appreciate subtlety and purity in design.
Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.
The defining feature of the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel is undoubtedly its dial. Moser has applied its signature fumé effect to a vibrant turquoise hue, achieved through the demanding technique of Grand Feu enamelling. This ancient craft involves firing vitreous enamel powders at extremely high temperatures (around 800°C). The process for this specific dial begins with a solid white gold base, which is meticulously hammered to create a unique, textured surface before the enamelling process even starts.
Creating the final turquoise fumé dial is a multi-stage procedure requiring immense skill and patience. Expert enamellers apply multiple layers of translucent enamel powder by hand. Three distinct pigment shades are used and carefully distributed to achieve the characteristic gradient effect, transitioning from a lighter, more luminous center to darker, richer tones towards the periphery. Each layer requires a separate firing in a kiln, a process that fuses the pigments permanently to the base and to each other without diminishing their chromatic intensity. The hammered texture beneath interacts with the translucent enamel, adding depth and a subtle shimmer as light moves across the surface.
The result is a dial that is visually arresting. The turquoise color possesses a remarkable depth and vibrancy, shifting in appearance depending on the angle and intensity of the light. The fumé effect draws the eye inward towards the center and the tourbillon aperture, while the hammered texture provides an organic, almost liquid quality to the surface. The absence of indices or branding leaves the expansive turquoise canvas unbroken, allowing the color and the tourbillon mechanism to be the sole focal points.
Housing this exceptional dial is a case crafted from 5N red gold. Measuring 40.0 mm in diameter and 11.2 mm in height, the case strikes a balance between presence and wearability. The warm tone of the red gold provides a rich contrast to the cool brilliance of the turquoise enamel dial. The case features classic lines with polished and brushed surfaces, showcasing Moser's attention to finishing. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, while a see-through sapphire case-back offers an unobstructed view of the intricate movement within. The crown, also in 5N red gold, is subtly fluted for grip and adorned with an engraved "M", signifying the Moser manufacture.
Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.
At the core of this timepiece is the HMC 805 automatic Manufacture calibre. This movement represents an evolution from the preceding HMC 804, incorporating several technical and aesthetic updates. Designed and produced entirely in-house, it reflects Moser's commitment to horological self-sufficiency. The movement operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), a traditional beat rate often favored for tourbillon movements.
The architecture of the HMC 805 is designed for visual appreciation through the sapphire case-back. It features partially skeletonised bridges finished with a modern anthracite grey coating and Moser's characteristic double stripes decoration. This openworking allows glimpses into the gear train and the operation of the automatic winding system's components. The oscillating weight, responsible for winding the mainspring, is crafted from 18-carat red gold and is also skeletonised, ensuring that the view of the movement remains as unobstructed as possible while efficiently harnessing the wearer's motion.
A key mechanical feature visible on the dial side is the one-minute flying tourbillon, positioned prominently at 6 o'clock. The tourbillon mechanism, which places the escapement and balance wheel within a rotating cage, was originally conceived to average out gravitational errors on the regulating organ in pocket watches. In a modern wristwatch, particularly one with a flying tourbillon (supported only from below), it serves as a captivating display of mechanical complexity and precision engineering. The bridge holding the tourbillon cage is itself skeletonised, further enhancing the sense of lightness and mechanical transparency.
Enhancing the timekeeping performance of the HMC 805 is the incorporation of a double hairspring. Produced by Moser's sister company, Precision Engineering AG, this pair of matched hairsprings works in tandem. As one spring expands, the other contracts, effectively correcting the displacement of the center of gravity that occurs with a single hairspring during its oscillations. This significantly improves the movement's accuracy and isochronism (consistency of rate across different states of wind). Furthermore, the double hairspring configuration helps to reduce the effects of friction, contributing further to stable timekeeping over the duration of the power reserve.
The HMC 805 calibre boasts practical specifications alongside its technical sophistication. It provides a minimum power reserve of 72 hours, or three days, meaning the watch can be set aside over a weekend and still be running accurately on Monday morning. The automatic winding system is bi-directional, utilizing a pawl system for efficient energy transfer to the mainspring regardless of the rotor's direction of spin. The movement measures 32.0 mm (14 1/4 lignes) in diameter and 5.5 mm in height, dimensions that allow for the relatively slim profile of the finished watch.
Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.
In keeping with the Concept philosophy, the watch performs the essential functions of displaying hours and minutes. Time is indicated by leaf-shaped hands, also crafted in 5N red gold to match the case. Their slender, traditional form provides a subtle counterpoint to the modern dial execution and the technical nature of the tourbillon, ensuring legibility without distracting from the dial's artistry.
Completing the watch is a hand-stitched strap made from grey ostrich leather. This choice of material and color is deliberate; the textured pattern of the ostrich leather adds another layer of visual interest, while the neutral grey hue complements the turquoise dial and red gold case without competing for attention. It subtly enhances the richness of the dial and underlines the watch's blend of sophisticated aesthetics and understated presentation. The strap is secured by a pin buckle clasp, also fabricated from 5N red gold and engraved with the H. Moser logo.
The Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel offers a water resistance rating of 3 ATM (atmospheres), equivalent to approximately 30 meters. This level of resistance protects the watch against splashes and brief encounters with water, such as rain or handwashing, but it is not suitable for swimming or diving. This is typical for dressier watches featuring complex mechanisms and precious materials.
This timepiece exemplifies H. Moser & Cie.'s distinct approach to Haute Horlogerie. It blends age-old artisanal techniques like Grand Feu enamelling with contemporary movement technology, including the double hairspring tourbillon. The minimalist "Concept" dial execution pushes boundaries, prioritizing color, texture, and mechanical beauty over conventional branding. It is a watch that makes a statement through its materials and craftsmanship rather than overt logos.
The visual experience of the watch is dominated by the interplay between the deep, shifting turquoise of the enamel, the warm glow of the 5N red gold case, and the constant, mesmerizing rotation of the flying tourbillon at the dial's base. The hammered texture beneath the enamel catches the light uniquely, ensuring the dial never appears static. Through the case-back, the dark, structured beauty of the anthracite-finished HMC 805 movement provides a different, more technical kind of visual appeal, highlighting the complexity within.
Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.
This model appeals to collectors and enthusiasts who value artisanal dial work, in-house movement development, and a design philosophy that favors purity and material expression. It showcases how traditional crafts can be reinterpreted in a modern context and paired with advanced mechanical engineering to create something distinctive in the contemporary watch landscape.
The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel is identified by the reference number 1805-0400. It is presented as a 5N red gold model featuring the Turquoise fumé Grand Feu enamel dial and paired with a grey ostrich leather strap. The suggested retail price for this piece is CHF 75,000.
Case: 5N red gold, Diameter: 40.0 mm, Height: 11.2 mm, Sapphire crystal front and see-through case-back, Crown adorned with an "M". Water resistance 3 ATM.
Movement: HMC 805 automatic Manufacture calibre, Diameter: 32.0 mm / 14 1/4 lignes, Height: 5.5 mm, Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour, Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system, Skeletonised 18-carat red gold oscillating weight, Power reserve: minimum 3 days (72 hours), Original double hairspring, One-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o'clock with skeletonised bridge, Anthracite finish with Moser double stripes, Partially skeletonised bridges. Functions: Hours and minutes.
Dial: Turquoise fumé "Grand Feu" enamel with hammered texture on a white gold base, Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands in 5N red gold. Concept style (no logo, no indices).
Strap: Hand-stitched grey ostrich leather, 5N red gold clasp engraved with the H. Moser logo.
Price: CHF 75,000
Reference Number: 1805-0400
Notes: Features a Concept dial focusing on purity (no logo/indices). Showcases a vibrant Turquoise fumé dial created using the traditional Grand Feu enamelling technique over a hammered white gold base. Incorporates a one-minute flying tourbillon with a double hairspring for improved accuracy and isochronism.