Moser Endeavour Pop Collection

H. Moser & Cie., a watch manufacturer established in 1828, has carved a distinct niche for itself through a commitment to minimalist design principles and technically proficient watchmaking. Often recognized for its signature fumé dials, which feature a gradient color effect, and a deliberate absence of excessive branding, the company has cultivated a reputation for understated sophistication. However, adhering to its own spirit of occasional disruption, Moser has introduced the Endeavour Pop Collection, a vibrant departure from its established aesthetic codes. This new line embraces bold color combinations and the natural beauty of gemstones, representing a fusion of high-level watchmaking craft and expressive art.

The history of H. Moser & Cie. begins with Heinrich Moser, who founded the company in St. Petersburg, Russia, before eventually establishing operations back in Switzerland. Throughout its long history, interrupted and later revived, the brand has maintained a focus on producing high-quality movements and timepieces. Based in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, the modern iteration of the company employs skilled artisans and engineers, developing numerous in-house calibres. A key component of its independence and capability is its sister company, Precision Engineering AG (PEAG), which specializes in manufacturing critical movement components like regulating organs and balance springs, supplying both Moser and partner brands. This vertical integration underscores Moser's technical prowess. The brand is currently part of the MELB Holding group, an independent family entity rooted in the Vallée de Joux. A member of the Moser family serves as Honorary Chairman, linking the contemporary brand to its historical roots, further supported by the Heinrich and Henri Moser Foundation which preserves the family legacy.



The Endeavour Pop Collection marks a deliberate pivot, described by Moser as a "chromatic odyssey." While the brand has previously utilized color, it often did so within a monochromatic framework. This collection breaks that mold, introducing unexpected pairings of vividly colored gemstones. It's presented as a playful rebellion against conventional watch design, injecting a sense of fun and brightness into the often staid world of Haute Horlogerie. The core philosophy remains rooted in minimalism, but the execution shifts focus. Instead of relying solely on dial finishing techniques like the fumé effect, the Pop Collection lets the inherent beauty and color of natural materials take center stage. In a move consistent with Moser's 'Concept' dial philosophy, logos and indices are completely omitted, ensuring the gemstones are the undisputed stars.

This collection comprises 18 distinct watch variations, built upon six different types of gemstones. These carefully selected stones form the foundation for three distinct watch models within the Endeavour line: the Endeavour Small Seconds Concept Pop, the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Pop, and the exceedingly rare Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon Concept Pop. Each gemstone is paired with another contrasting stone to create unique bi-material dials, offering a dynamic interplay of color and texture across the collection. The choice of gemstones includes Burmese jade, turquoise, coral, pink opal, lapis lazuli, and lemon chrysoprase, each selected for its intensity and visual appeal.

The selection process for the gemstones was rigorous, prioritizing exceptional vibrancy, purity, and clarity. Beyond their visual characteristics, Moser notes the powerful symbolism associated with each stone. Jade is linked to wisdom and harmony, lapis lazuli to intuition and creativity, turquoise to vitality and protection, deep orange coral to passion, lemon chrysoprase to self-confidence, and pink opal to gentleness and love. This adds another layer of personality to each timepiece, positioning them as potential personal talismans reflecting different emotional expressions.

Lemon chrysoprase, sourced from South Africa, stands out with its almost neon-like yellowish-green hue. The material presents significant challenges in sourcing, as finding large, homogeneous sections suitable for watch dials is exceptionally rare. Each dial made from this stone is therefore a testament to careful selection and precise cutting. In the Pop Collection, lemon chrysoprase is paired with the Deep Blue of lapis lazuli, creating a striking contrast that highlights the unique character of both stones. This combination offers an unexpected yet harmonious visual dialogue.



Deep orange coral, harvested from the Pacific Ocean, is another material chosen for its rarity and intense color. Securing a single piece of coral large enough (over 40mm in diameter) and of sufficient quality to craft multiple dials was a significant undertaking; the original specimen reportedly weighed over 6 kilograms. This speaks to the difficulty in working with certain natural materials at this scale. The intense orange is juxtaposed with the vibrant blue of turquoise, resulting in a visually arresting combination that commands attention and reflects a daring artistic sensibility.

The turquoise selected for the collection is noted for its exceptional clarity and intense blue color, making it a highly sought-after variety. It possesses a smooth, uniform texture largely free from the dark matrix patterns (veining) often seen in other types of turquoise, giving it an almost ethereal quality. When paired with the deep orange coral, the resulting dial presents a bold contrast, playing the cool intensity of the blue against the fiery warmth of the orange. This combination emphasizes the luminous quality of the turquoise.

Burmese jade, also referred to as Imperial Jade, holds significant cultural reverence, particularly in Asia. It is prized for its translucency and characteristic vibrant green color. Unlike some other green gems, the presence of subtle green veins, cloudy patches, or speckles within Burmese jade is often seen as a signifier of its high quality and uniqueness. For the Pop Collection dials, this esteemed jade is paired with the softer, gentle hue of pink opal. This pairing creates a dial that balances the jade's vibrancy with the opal's delicate appearance, transforming the watch face into a piece of wearable art.

Pink opal, sourced primarily from Peru, is distinguished by its often cloud-like internal patterns and natural fissures. Achieving a smooth, uniform appearance required for a watch dial necessitates selecting only the highest quality segments of the stone, carefully working around its inherent characteristics. Paired with the vibrant Burmese jade, the pink opal provides a soft contrast, highlighting the natural elegance of both materials. The combination results in a refined yet bold aesthetic, showcasing the unique beauty drawn from the earth.



Lapis lazuli chosen for these timepieces is described as being of the highest grade, characterized by a deep, luminous blue coloration with minimal pyrite (fool's gold) inclusions. Finding lapis lazuli of this exceptional quality is uncommon, making each dial a showcase of the stone's finest potential. In the Pop collection, this deep blue stone is paired with the bright, almost electric tones of lemon chrysoprase. The resulting combination is sophisticated yet daring, juxtaposing the profound depth of the blue with the vibrant energy of the yellowish-green chrysoprase.

Visually, the Endeavour Pop Collection watches are immediately striking due to their bi-material dials. The sharp division between the two chosen stones creates a distinct, graphic look. The colors range from the cool pairing of lapis lazuli and lemon chrysoprase to the warm contrast of turquoise and coral, and the more subtle interplay of Burmese jade and pink opal. The leaf-shaped hour and minute hands provide a classic touch against the modern backdrop of the gemstone dials. The case design adheres to the established Endeavour silhouette – a rounded form with sculpted lugs and a polished finish, available in either stainless steel or 5N red gold, providing a frame that enhances the dial's vibrancy.

The cases are offered in two sizes depending on the model. The Endeavour Small Seconds Concept Pop features a 38.0 mm diameter case with a height of 10.4 mm. The more complicated Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Pop and Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon Concept Pop models are housed in slightly larger 40.0 mm diameter cases, with a height of 13.5 mm to accommodate their respective movements. Both sizes utilize sapphire crystals for the front glass and the see-through case back, allowing views of the movement within. The crown is tastefully adorned with Moser's signature "M".

The dials are the collection's centerpiece. As mentioned, they are bi-material constructions using natural gemstones paired as follows: Burmese jade with pink opal, lapis lazuli with lemon chrysoprase, and turquoise with coral. The complete absence of logos or hour markers directs all focus to the stones themselves. Time is indicated by leaf-shaped hour and minute hands. The specific model dictates additional dial features: the Small Seconds version has an offset subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o'clock, the Tourbillon model showcases a one-minute flying tourbillon with a skeletonized bridge in the same position, and the Minute Repeater Tourbillon uniquely displays the repeater's hammers and chimes directly on the dial side, offering a visual spectacle when the complication is activated.



Powering the Endeavour Small Seconds Concept Pop is the HMC 202 automatic calibre. This in-house movement measures 32.0 mm in diameter and 5.5 mm in height. It operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) and contains 27 jewels. Winding is achieved via an automatic bi-directional pawl system, driven by a solid 18-carat gold oscillating weight engraved with the Moser logo. It offers a minimum power reserve of 3 days and includes a hacking seconds function for precise time-setting. The movement features an original Straumann hairspring (produced by Moser's sister company PEAG) and is finished with an anthracite treatment and Moser's characteristic double stripes decoration on partially skeletonized bridges.

The Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Pop utilizes the HMC 805 automatic calibre. Sharing the same 32.0 mm diameter and 5.5 mm height as the HMC 202, it also operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour. It features an automatic bi-directional winding system, but in this calibre, the oscillating weight is made of 18-carat red gold and is skeletonized to provide better views of the movement architecture beneath. The power reserve is also a minimum of 3 days. A key technical feature is the original double hairspring, designed to improve accuracy and isochronism. The defining complication is the one-minute flying tourbillon positioned at 6 o'clock, visible through an aperture in the dial and featuring a skeletonized bridge. The movement finishing includes an anthracite treatment and Moser double stripes on partially skeletonized bridges.

At the pinnacle of the collection sits the Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon Concept Pop, driven by the HMC 904 calibre. This is a hand-wound movement, partially skeletonized to reveal its intricate workings. It measures 33.0 mm in diameter and has a height of 9.62 mm. Operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour, it incorporates 35 jewels and boasts an impressive power reserve of 90 hours. The movement and its components are hand-finished and decorated, featuring Moser double stripes on the main plate and bridges. Like the HMC 805, it includes a one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o'clock with a skeletonized bridge. Its most complex feature is the minute repeater, which chimes the hours, quarter-hours, and minutes on demand, with the striking mechanism (hammers and gongs) visible on the dial side.

Completing the timepieces are carefully chosen straps. The steel models (Small Seconds and Tourbillon) are paired with hand-stitched grey ostrich leather straps. The unique 5N red gold Minute Repeater Tourbillon models come with hand-stitched grey alligator leather straps. The fastening method varies by model: the Endeavour Small Seconds uses a steel pin buckle engraved with the Moser logo, while the Endeavour Tourbillon features a steel folding clasp, also engraved. The Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon utilizes a folding clasp made from 5N red gold to match its case material.



The Endeavour Pop Collection exemplifies H. Moser & Cie.'s capacity for surprise and its unique perspective on watchmaking. It demonstrates that adherence to minimalist principles doesn't equate to a lack of color or expressiveness. By foregrounding natural gemstones and pairing them in unexpected ways, Moser transforms the dial into the primary design element. The collection successfully integrates high complications like the flying tourbillon and minute repeater into watches that feel fresh, vibrant, and deliberately unconventional, showcasing the historic art of the lapidary in a contemporary context.

These watches represent a fleeting opportunity, produced in highly limited quantities. The Endeavour Small Seconds Concept Pop models are limited to 28 pieces per gemstone combination. The Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Pop versions are even rarer, with only 5 pieces made for each combination. The Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon Concept Pop watches are designated as unique pieces, meaning only one of each specific gemstone and complication combination in red gold exists. Pricing reflects the materials, craftsmanship, and exclusivity. The Endeavour Small Seconds Concept Pop starts at $33,500 USD, increasing to $42,900 USD for the turquoise and coral versions. The Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Pop is priced at $82,500 USD, rising to $86,900 USD for the turquoise and coral models. The unique Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon Concept Pop pieces are priced at $340,000 USD each.

Case: Steel or 5N red gold. Diameter 38.0 mm (Small Seconds) or 40.0 mm (Tourbillon, Minute Repeater). Height 10.4 mm or 13.5 mm. Sapphire crystal front and see-through case back. Crown adorned with an "M".

Movement: HMC 202 automatic (Small Seconds), HMC 805 automatic (Tourbillon), HMC 904 hand-wound (Minute Repeater). Frequency 21,600 Vib/h. Power reserve min. 3 days (HMC 202/805) or 90 hours (HMC 904). Features include small seconds, one-minute flying tourbillon, minute repeater. Automatic movements feature bi-directional winding and gold/red gold rotors. Finished with Moser double stripes.

Dial: Bi-material dials made from natural gemstones (Burmese jade/pink opal, lapis lazuli/lemon chrysoprase, turquoise/coral). No logos or indices. Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands. Model-specific features: offset small second, one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o'clock, or minute repeater hammers and chimes visible on dial side.

Strap: Hand-stitched grey ostrich leather (steel models) or hand-stitched grey alligator leather (red gold models). Steel pin buckle (Small Seconds), steel folding clasp (Tourbillon), or 5N red gold folding clasp (Minute Repeater), all engraved with Moser logo.

Price: Endeavour Small Seconds Concept Pop: $33,500 USD (or $42,900 USD for turquoise/coral). Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Pop: $82,500 USD (or $86,900 USD for turquoise/coral). Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon Concept Pop: $340,000 USD.

Reference Number: Small Seconds (1202-xxxx), Tourbillon (1805-xxxx), Minute Repeater Tourbillon (1904-xxxx). Specific references include 1202-1200, 1202-1205, 1805-1201, 1805-1206, 1904-0403, 1904-0407, among others.

Notes: Limited editions: 28 pieces per colour (Small Seconds), 5 pieces per colour (Tourbillon), unique pieces (Minute Repeater). Collection focuses on vibrant gemstone pairings and high watchmaking complications, representing a colourful departure from Moser's typical minimalist aesthetic. Gemstones selected for rarity and vibrancy, like large-diameter coral and homogeneous lemon chrysoprase.