Moser Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel

H. Moser & Cie. introduces a striking new addition to its lineup with the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel, reference 1201-1200. This timepiece merges the fundamental display of hours, minutes, and seconds with a profound execution of artisanal enamelling, creating a vibrant interpretation of the brand's recognized fumé dial aesthetic. It represents a focused expression of watchmaking, where traditional craft meets a distinctly modern sensibility, housed within a meticulously crafted steel case.



The story of H. Moser & Cie. begins with its founder, Heinrich Moser, who established the company in 1828. From its base in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, Switzerland, the brand cultivated a reputation for robust and well-engineered watches. After a period of dormancy during the quartz crisis, the name was revived, bringing back the spirit of Heinrich Moser's enterprise but with a fresh, often audacious, approach to modern watchmaking. Today, the company employs around 120 individuals and prides itself on significant in-house capabilities, having developed 20 distinct calibres.



A key element of Moser's manufacturing strength lies in its sister company, Precision Engineering AG (PEAG). Acquired by Moser Watch Holding in 2012, PEAG is a specialist in crucial watch components, particularly regulating organs and balance springs, including the Straumann double hairspring found in many Moser movements. This vertical integration allows Moser not only to supply its own production needs but also to provide these high-specification components to partner brands, underscoring its technical expertise within the industry.



The legacy of the founding family continues through the Heinrich and Henri Moser Foundation. Headed by a Moser family member who also serves as Honorary Chairman for the company, the foundation works to preserve the brand's rich history and curates the Moser Museum, located in Heinrich Moser's former family home, Charlottenfels Manor. This connection to its roots provides a historical counterpoint to the brand's often contemporary and sometimes provocative designs.



The Endeavour collection serves as a primary platform for H. Moser & Cie.'s explorations in dial artistry and mechanical ingenuity. Characterized by classically proportioned cases, often with flowing lines and refined finishing, the Endeavour provides a canvas where the brand showcases its mastery of color, texture, and minimalist design principles. It’s within this collection that Moser frequently introduces its signature fumé dials and artistic techniques like enamelling.



A defining feature of this specific model is its adherence to Moser's "Concept" philosophy. This design approach strips the dial bare, removing all indices and even the brand logo. The intention is to allow the dial's inherent beauty – its color, texture, and finish – to be the sole focus. It's a bold move that relies entirely on the quality of the dial craftsmanship and the intrinsic appeal of the materials used, demanding attention through purity rather than branding.



The focal point of the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel is undoubtedly its Purple Haze dial. Moser has taken the traditional art of "Grand Feu" enamelling and applied its own contemporary interpretation. Grand Feu, meaning "Great Fire," involves fusing powdered glass onto a metal base at extremely high temperatures (typically 800-900°C). It's a demanding process where each firing carries the risk of cracking, discoloration, or imperfections, requiring immense skill and patience.



Moser's unique approach begins with a solid white gold dial base. Instead of a smooth surface, this base is first engraved with a pattern that imparts a distinct hammered texture. This texture is crucial, as it interacts with the overlying enamel to create a dynamic play of light and depth that standard flat enamel surfaces cannot achieve. This underlying structure is the foundation for the dial's visual complexity.



The creation of the specific Purple Haze color involves a meticulous process of pigment preparation and application. Six different enamel pigments are carefully selected, washed, and ground into an extremely fine powder. These powders are then applied to the textured gold base in a precise gradation. The master enameller must expertly blend these shades to achieve the desired transition from a lighter center to darker edges, characteristic of Moser's fumé effect.



Achieving the final fumé appearance requires multiple firings in the kiln. With each pass through the intense heat, the enamel powders fuse, vitrify, and bond to the gold base and each other. The enameller must precisely control the temperature and duration of each firing to develop the color and transparency correctly, ensuring the different shades melt together seamlessly without any pixelation or unwanted reactions. The transition must be smooth, creating that signature gradient effect.



The resulting Purple Haze dial possesses a remarkable visual quality. The deep purple hue shifts and changes depending on the angle of the light, thanks to the underlying hammered texture refracting light through the translucent layers of Grand Feu enamel. The fumé effect adds to this, drawing the eye towards the brighter center and giving the dial a sense of dimensionality. The difficulty in achieving this specific vibrant purple shade makes each dial a testament to the enameller's art. The absence of markers or logos leaves this intricate surface completely uninterrupted.



Encasing this artisanal dial is a 40.0 mm case crafted from steel. This choice of material provides a contrast to the richness of the enamel, lending the watch a degree of versatile wearability. The case measures 11.2 mm in height, a dimension that allows it to sit comfortably on the wrist. The surfaces feature polished areas, particularly on the bezel and lug tops, which catch the light, while brushed finishing might be present on the case sides, adding subtle contrast. Its classic round form is complemented by sculpted lugs that curve downwards.



Protecting the dial is a sapphire crystal, known for its scratch resistance. Another sapphire crystal is fitted on the case back, offering an unobstructed view of the mechanical movement within. The crown, located at the traditional 3 o'clock position, is appropriately sized for easy operation and is adorned with Moser's "M," subtly signifying the brand identity absent from the dial. The watch features a water resistance rating of 3 ATM, suitable for everyday exposure like splashes but not for swimming.



Powering the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel is the HMC 201 automatic calibre, developed and manufactured entirely in-house by H. Moser & Cie. This movement is designed with a focus on the core functions of timekeeping: hours, minutes, and central seconds. Its automatic winding system utilizes a bi-directional pawl mechanism, efficiently converting the motion of the wearer's wrist into stored energy for the mainspring.



The HMC 201 boasts a substantial power reserve of at least 72 hours, or three days. This allows the watch to keep running accurately even if taken off the wrist for an entire weekend. The movement operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), a common rate for reliable timekeeping, and incorporates 27 jewels to minimize friction at critical points within the gear train. A hacking seconds function allows the seconds hand to be stopped when setting the time for precise synchronization.



A significant technical highlight within the HMC 201 is the regulating organ produced by Precision Engineering AG. This includes an original Straumann double hairspring. Using two matched hairsprings arranged oppositely allows the mechanism to average out gravitational errors on the balance's center of gravity as it expands and contracts, leading to improved timekeeping accuracy (isochronism) across different positions and power reserve levels. The presence of the double hairspring is subtly indicated by the purple central seconds hand and a blue balance bridge visible through the case back.



The finishing of the HMC 201 reflects a modern aesthetic. The bridges feature an anthracite grey coating and are decorated with Moser's characteristic double stripes (a variation of traditional Côtes de Genève). Importantly, the bridges are partially skeletonised, meaning sections have been cut away. This open architecture provides intriguing glimpses into the movement's inner workings, revealing parts of the gear train, the motion works for the central seconds, and the automatic winding system.



Further enhancing the view through the sapphire case back, the oscillating weight (rotor) is crafted from solid 18-carat gold and is also openworked. This skeletonisation of the rotor minimizes obstruction, allowing a clearer view of the decorated movement bridges and components beneath it. The rotor itself is engraved, adding another layer of refinement to the calibre's presentation.



Time indication is handled by leaf-shaped (feuille) hands for the hours and minutes. These traditional, gently curved hands provide a soft contrast to the vibrant, textured dial. The central seconds hand is a thin, straight hand rendered in a purple color that echoes the dial's main theme and visually links to the technical feature of the double hairspring. Reading the time requires judging the position of the hands against the unmarked dial, emphasizing the watch's minimalist 'Concept' nature.



Completing the watch is a hand-stitched strap made from purple kudu leather. Kudu leather is known for its unique texture, often described as velvety or suede-like, yet durable. The deep purple color of the strap is carefully chosen to complement the Purple Haze dial, creating a cohesive and bold look. The strap is fastened with a standard steel pin buckle, likely engraved with the Moser name or logo.



In summary, the key technical specifications include the 40.0 mm steel case (11.2 mm height), the Purple Haze Grand Feu enamel dial with hammered texture, the HMC 201 automatic movement operating at 21,600 Vib/h with a 3-day power reserve and Straumann double hairspring, and water resistance of 3 ATM. Functions are limited to hours, minutes, and central seconds, presented without indices or logos.



This timepiece embodies H. Moser & Cie.'s philosophy of blending high-level craftsmanship with a contemporary, sometimes minimalist, design language. The revival of Grand Feu enamelling, combined with the unique hammered texture and the daring Purple Haze color on a Concept dial, showcases the brand's willingness to reinterpret tradition in its own distinct style. The technically proficient in-house movement further solidifies its credentials as a serious manufacture.



The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel (Reference 1201-1200) is priced at CHF 27,000. As a specific release announced for April 1st, 2025, prospective buyers should inquire with authorized H. Moser & Cie. retailers regarding actual availability and delivery timelines.



Case: Steel material, 40.0 mm diameter, 11.2 mm height. Features sapphire crystal on the front and a see-through case back. Crown is adorned with an "M". Water resistance rated to 3 ATM.

Movement: HMC 201 automatic calibre. Diameter 32.0 mm, height 5.5 mm. Operates at 21,600 Vib/h with 27 jewels. Equipped with automatic bi-directional pawl winding system, solid 18-carat gold openworked rotor, hacking seconds, and Original Straumann® double hairspring. Offers a minimum power reserve of 3 days (72 hours). Features anthracite finish with Moser double stripes and partially skeletonised bridges. Functions include hours, minutes, and central seconds.

Dial: “Grand Feu” enamel in Purple Haze fumé color, featuring a hammered texture on a white gold base. Concept style with no logo or indices. Hands are leaf-shaped for hours and minutes, with a purple central seconds hand.

Strap: Hand-stitched purple kudu leather strap. Fastened with a steel pin buckle.

Price: CHF 27 000

Reference Number: 1201-1200

Notes: Notable for its intricate "Grand Feu" enamel dial using a hammered texture base and achieving the difficult Purple Haze fumé effect. Minimalist "Concept" dial design omits logo and indices. Utilizes the in-house HMC 201 movement with advanced double hairspring technology from Precision Engineering AG.