• Moritz Grossmann Enamel Roman Vintage the Art of Enamel
  • Moritz Grossmann Enamel Roman Vintage

    The Art of Enamel

    Hourstriker Staff
    Words by: Hourstriker Staff
    November 13, 2024
  • Moritz Grossmann, with its rich heritage and unwavering commitment to traditional techniques, has consistently delivered watches that capture the essence of classicism while embracing innovation. To commemorate its 16th anniversary, Moritz Grossmann unveils a limited-edition masterpiece that embodies the brand's unwavering pursuit of horological excellence: the ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage.

    The story of Moritz Grossmann begins in 1854, when the visionary watchmaker established his workshop in Glashütte, Saxony, a region destined to become a cradle of German watchmaking. Grossmann's dedication to precision and craftsmanship quickly earned him a reputation for producing exceptional timepieces. His legacy extends beyond his technical prowess; he was also instrumental in founding the German School of Watchmaking in Glashütte, nurturing a new generation of skilled artisans.

    Courtesy of Moritz Grossman
    Courtesy of Moritz Grossman


    Fast forward to 2008, and the spirit of Moritz Grossmann is revived with the establishment of the eponymous watchmaking company. The manufactory, nestled in the heart of Glashütte, has remained true to the founder's principles, crafting timepieces that blend traditional techniques with modern sensibilities. Each watch is a testament to the meticulous attention to detail and the unwavering pursuit of perfection that defines Moritz Grossmann's horological philosophy.

    The ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage, limited to a mere eight pieces, is a contemporary interpretation of the brand's core values. The watch's design language is a symphony of contrasts, with black, white, and red interplaying to create a visually arresting aesthetic. The dial, a canvas of deep, mesmerizing black, is a testament to the ancient art of enameling, a technique that has been employed for centuries to adorn timepieces and decorative objects.

    Enamel, a vitreous substance, is created by fusing powdered glass with metal oxides at high temperatures. The process is as demanding as it is rewarding, requiring a skilled artisan to apply multiple layers of enamel, each fired to perfection, to achieve a flawless surface. The resulting dial is not only visually captivating but also remarkably durable, resistant to the ravages of time.

    The ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage's dial is a masterpiece of craftsmanship. The deep black enamel provides a striking backdrop for the white Roman numerals and indices, their stark contrast lending a sense of clarity and legibility. The numerals themselves are crafted from enamel, applied using a meticulous pad printing process and fired to ensure permanence. The railway-style minute track, also in white enamel, encircles the dial, adding a touch of classicism.

    Courtesy of Moritz Grossman
    Courtesy of Moritz Grossman


    At the heart of the ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage beats the calibre 100.1, a hand-wound movement that exemplifies Moritz Grossmann's dedication to mechanical excellence. The movement's architecture is based on the traditional pillar construction, a technique that ensures stability and durability. The bridges and plates are crafted from untreated German silver, a material prized for its warm hue and resistance to corrosion.

    The calibre 100.1 is not only technically impressive but also visually captivating. The hand-engraved balance cock, with its characteristic fine micrometer screw, is a testament to the brand's commitment to traditional finishing techniques. The movement's components are meticulously decorated with perlage, anglage, and Côtes de Genève, showcasing the artistry of Moritz Grossmann's watchmakers.

    The ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage is housed in a 41mm white gold case, its polished surfaces reflecting light with a subtle elegance. The case's design is understated, allowing the dial to take center stage. The slender bezel provides an unobstructed view of the enamel dial, while the gently curved lugs ensure a comfortable fit on the wrist.

    A sapphire crystal caseback offers a glimpse into the intricate workings of the calibre 100.1. The movement's rhythmic oscillations, the interplay of gears and levers, are a mesmerizing spectacle for any watch enthusiast. The transparent caseback also reveals the hand-engraved balance cock, a testament to the brand's dedication to traditional craftsmanship.

    Completing the ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage is a black alligator leather strap, its hand-stitched seams adding a touch of refinement. The strap is secured by a white gold prong buckle, its understated design complementing the watch's overall aesthetic.

    Courtesy of Moritz Grossman
    Courtesy of Moritz Grossman


    The ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage's dial is a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship that defines Moritz Grossmann. Crafted from black enamel, the dial's deep, lustrous surface provides a captivating backdrop for the contrasting white Roman numerals and indices. The numerals themselves are not merely painted on; they are formed from enamel, applied using a precise pad printing technique and fired to ensure permanence. This intricate process results in numerals that are not only visually striking but also remarkably durable, resistant to fading or discoloration over time.

    The dial's railway-style minute track, also rendered in white enamel, encircles the dial, adding a touch of classicism to the watch's overall aesthetic. The historical Moritz Grossmann inscription, positioned below the 12 o'clock marker, is a subtle nod to the brand's heritage, a reminder of the visionary watchmaker whose legacy continues to inspire.

    The ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage's hands are a study in minimalist design. Crafted from polished steel, the lance-shaped hour and minute hands glide effortlessly across the dial, their slender profiles complementing the watch's refined aesthetic. The hands' pointed tips enhance legibility, ensuring precise timekeeping at a glance.

    The watch's case, measuring 41mm in diameter, is crafted from 18k white gold, its polished surfaces reflecting light with a gentle radiance. The case's design is understated, allowing the dial to take center stage. The slim bezel provides an unobstructed view of the enamel dial, while the gently curved lugs ensure a comfortable fit on the wrist. The case's thickness, a mere 11.35mm, adds to the watch's overall elegance, making it suitable for both formal and casual occasions.

    Courtesy of Moritz Grossman
    Courtesy of Moritz Grossman


    Protecting the dial is a sapphire crystal, its anti-reflective coating minimizing glare and ensuring optimal clarity. The crystal's domed profile adds a subtle vintage touch, reminiscent of the pocket watches that inspired the ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage's design.

    Turning the watch over reveals a sapphire crystal caseback, offering a glimpse into the intricate workings of the calibre 100.1. This hand-wound movement, entirely developed and manufactured in-house by Moritz Grossmann, is a testament to the brand's unwavering commitment to horological excellence.

    The calibre 100.1's architecture is based on the traditional pillar construction, a technique that ensures stability and durability. The bridges and plates are crafted from untreated German silver, a material prized for its warm hue and resistance to corrosion. The movement's components are meticulously decorated with perlage, anglage, and Côtes de Genève, showcasing the artistry of Moritz Grossmann's watchmakers.

    One of the calibre 100.1's most distinctive features is its hand-engraved balance cock, a testament to the brand's dedication to traditional finishing techniques. The balance cock's fine micrometer screw allows for precise regulation of the watch's rate, ensuring exceptional accuracy.

    The calibre 100.1 also boasts a unique hand-setting mechanism, designed to prevent accidental adjustments and the ingress of dust or debris. With a gentle pull of the crown, the mechanism switches to hand-setting mode, simultaneously stopping the movement. The crown then returns to its original position, allowing for precise adjustment of the hands. A pusher located below the crown restarts the movement and resets the mechanism to its winding function.

    Courtesy of Moritz Grossman
    Courtesy of Moritz Grossman


    The ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage is secured to the wrist by a hand-stitched black alligator leather strap, its supple texture and refined aesthetic complementing the watch's overall design. The strap is fastened with a white gold prong buckle, its understated elegance echoing the watch's refined character.

    Limited to just eight pieces, the Moritz Grossmann ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage is a rare and exclusive timepiece, a testament to the brand's unwavering pursuit of horological perfection. Its captivating dial, meticulously crafted movement, and elegant design make it a watch that will undoubtedly appeal to discerning collectors who appreciate the finer things in life. The ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage is priced at 74,700 euros, a reflection of the exceptional craftsmanship and exclusivity that define this remarkable timepiece.
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