MING 37.02 Ghost

MING, an independent watch brand operating out of facilities in Switzerland and Malaysia, has carved a distinct niche for itself by focusing on unique aesthetics driven by the interplay of light, form, and innovative materials. Founded and led by Ming Thein – a designer, photographer, and business strategist – the brand seeks to rekindle excitement and discovery within the watch community. Their approach consistently yields timepieces that are immediately recognizable, prioritizing visual balance, legibility, and comfortable wearability through careful consideration of tactility and physical balance. This philosophy extends beyond mere looks, delving into advanced materials science and engineering.



The brand's history, though relatively short compared to century-old manufactures, is marked by significant achievements and a clear vision. MING doesn't just assemble watches; they conceptualize and engineer them, often pushing the boundaries of what's expected in their price segments. Their design language often incorporates layering and dynamic interaction with light, creating watches that seem to shift and change depending on the viewing angle and environment. This invites closer inspection and offers owners a continuous sense of discovering new facets of their timepieces over time.



Further demonstrating their commitment to innovation is the "Special Projects Cave," an initiative allowing customer participation in developing experimental watches centered around new technologies. This R&D incubator has produced notable firsts, including the sapphire Mosaic (an internal 3D structure laser-etched within sapphire crystal), Hyceram (a ceramic-fused luminous material offering unique applications), and the remarkable LW.01. The LW.01, realized using AZ31 magnesium alloy and finite element simulation, stands as likely the world's lightest production mechanical watch, weighing a mere 8.8 grams.



Recognition has followed MING's unique blend of design and technical prowess. The brand secured the Horological Revelation Prize at the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2019, a significant validation for a young independent. More recently, they added the Sports Watch Prize at the 2024 GPHG to their accolades, cementing their reputation for creating compelling and technically interesting watches. Their global operation combines Swiss production and assembly in La Chaux-de-Fonds with design, engineering, and final quality control overseen in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, leveraging expertise from both locations. Collaborations with established partners like Agenhor, La-Joux Perret, and Sellita, alongside specialists outside the watch industry, further bolster their capabilities.



The MING 37.02 Ghost emerged not from a desire to chase records for thinness, lightness, or extreme water resistance – goals addressed by models like the ultra-light LW.01 or the deep-diving 37.09 Bluefin – but from a distinct conceptual starting point. The team envisioned translating the ethereal play of light found in architectural settings, specifically how light interacts with a complex array of architecturally finished metallic surfaces like claddings, buttresses, pillars, and struts, onto the wrist. It was an exercise in capturing a specific mood and visual texture, drawing directly from the architectural inspirations that often inform MING's designs.



Central to realizing the Ghost's concept was the deliberate choice of material: Grade 2 titanium. This decision flew in the face of common practice in modern watchmaking, which predominantly uses Grade 5 titanium. Grade 5, an alloy containing aluminum and vanadium, was developed for aerospace and is favored for its relative ease of machining, milling, and cold working – properties that facilitated its wider adoption. It also presents a "whiter" and "brighter" appearance compared to pure titanium. MING, however, sought the inherent character of pure, unalloyed titanium.



Grade 2 titanium, confusingly the designation for commercially pure titanium, presents significant manufacturing hurdles. Its high ductility and low elastic modulus mean it can deflect away from cutting tools rather than being cleanly machined. Simultaneously, it exhibits work hardening – becoming harder and tougher through the heat and impact generated during the machining process itself, changing its behavior mid-operation. Furthermore, fine shavings and dust from Grade 2 titanium are highly flammable, demanding careful handling, even though the bulk material is exceptionally inert. Historically, before Grade 5 became readily available, titanium watches were made from Grade 2, rendering them rare and costly due to these exact challenges.



Embracing these difficulties, MING opted to construct as much of the 37.02 Ghost as possible from this demanding material. The entire case structure, the dial itself, and even the buckle are all fashioned from Grade 2 titanium. A key characteristic of this material is that it cannot be polished to a mirror finish like steel or Grade 5 titanium. This limitation became a design opportunity, allowing Ming Thein to fully explore the architectural inspiration through creative application of brushed finishes. Different brushing directions and pitches were employed across the watch's surfaces.



The result of this meticulous finishing work on the Grade 2 titanium is particularly evident on the dial. Despite the material's inability to be polished, the dial achieves a surprising brightness and visual dynamism. This is accomplished through the contrast between radially brushed and circularly brushed sections on the two-part dial construction. The interplay of light across these different textures creates depth and interest. Furthermore, the dial maintains MING's signature "inversion" effect – a sense of depth and floating elements – achieved here through the dial's concave shape and the concentration of internal reflections, cleverly bypassing the need for sapphire dial components often used by the brand.



Visually, the watch presents a cohesive, almost monolithic appearance due to the consistent use of Grade 2 titanium throughout. The metal's inherent warmth, distinct from the cooler tones of steel or Grade 5 titanium, gives the Ghost a unique presence. The all-brushed finish diffuses light rather than reflecting it sharply, contributing to the "ethereal" quality the designers sought. The characteristic MING flared lugs flow smoothly into the case body, and the extremely slim bezel maximizes the dial's visual real estate, making the watch appear broad and open despite its modest dimensions.



The case measures a versatile 38mm in diameter and 11mm in thickness, with a compact 44.5mm lug-to-lug distance. These proportions, combined with the lightweight material, result in a watch head weighing only 35 grams. This makes the Ghost exceptionally comfortable on the wrist, feeling lighter and perhaps thinner than its physical measurements might suggest. The extensive use of Grade 2 titanium contributes significantly to this airiness while simultaneously providing inherent durability and corrosion resistance.



Protecting the dial and the movement view is a domed sapphire crystal on both the front and rear of the watch. These crystals feature double-sided anti-reflective coatings to minimize glare and maximize clarity, allowing an unobstructed view of the intricate dial finishing and the customized movement within. MING further enhances the watch's character through the application of Super-LumiNova X1, known for its brightness and longevity. Uniquely, this luminous material is applied as a liquid fill within the crystal structure itself, in addition to being applied to the hands, ensuring excellent low-light visibility with a contrasting blue glow.



An unexpected outcome of the Ghost's design and material choices was its water resistance. While initially engineered and targeted for a respectable 100 meters of water resistance, testing revealed the watch could withstand pressures equivalent to 260 meters – more than two and a half times the design goal. This impressive performance, achieved through the combination of Grade 2 titanium's properties, the pressure-balanced domed crystals, and optimized internal engineering, surpasses that of some dedicated dive or sports watches. In a nod to their own engineering paranoia and the surprising result, MING decided to retain the 100m rating on the caseback as an internal anecdote.



Powering the MING 37.02 Ghost is a Sellita SW300.M1 automatic movement, specifically customized for MING. This reliable Swiss caliber has been given a specific aesthetic treatment, featuring all-anthracite skeletonized bridges and plates, along with a customized rotor visible through the exhibition caseback. The dark, open-worked finish of the movement complements the overall monochromatic and technical look of the watch. The movement provides hours and minutes functions and offers a power reserve of approximately 50 hours when fully wound.



Completing the watch package is a 20mm strap crafted from grey goat leather. The color and texture of the strap were chosen to harmonize with the brushed grey tones of the titanium case and dial. It attaches via standard spring bars, offering strap-changing options for the owner. The strap is secured by MING's distinctive 'flying blade' tuck buckle, which is also meticulously crafted from brushed Grade 2 titanium, ensuring material continuity and reinforcing the watch's design language down to the smallest detail.



The extensive use of Grade 2 titanium defines the 37.02 Ghost. It's not just a material choice; it's the core of the watch's identity, influencing its appearance, its feel, and even its unexpected robustness. The difficulty in machining this material translates into a unique finish that cannot be replicated with easier-to-work metals. The resulting timepiece feels paradoxically light yet substantial, ethereal yet durable, embodying the architectural play of light and shadow that inspired its creation.



The MING 37.02 Ghost represents a focused exploration within the brand's portfolio. It stands apart from the extreme lightweight focus of the LW.01 or the depth-defying specs of the 37.09 Bluefin. Instead, it offers a wearable interpretation of MING's core design principles – light, form, material – executed through the challenging yet rewarding medium of Grade 2 titanium. Its visual signature lies in the intricate brushed finishes and the way they interact with the domed crystals and the skeletonized movement architecture.



For the wearer, the Ghost offers a distinct experience. The 38mm size ensures broad appeal, fitting comfortably on a wide range of wrists. The featherlight 35-gram head weight makes it almost unnoticeable during daily wear, yet the visual presence delivered by the brushed titanium and open dial is significant. The combination of the unique material, the architectural finishing, the customized movement, and the surprising water resistance makes it a compelling example of MING's approach to modern, independent watchmaking.



Each MING 37.02 Ghost comes with a 2-year warranty covering manufacturing defects. Reflecting the brand's typical production model and the specialized manufacturing involved, the Ghost was produced as a limited edition. Only 250 examples of this model were made available to collectors and enthusiasts worldwide.



The MING 37.02 Ghost was priced at CHF 3,500 upon its release. Given the limited production run of just 250 pieces and MING's established collector following, securing one often requires prompt action during designated order windows announced by the brand. Availability is limited to direct sales through MING's official channels as well as authorized retailers, and limited editions often sell out very quickly.



Case: 38mm diameter, 11mm thickness, 44.5mm lug-to-lug; Grade 2 titanium, all-brushed finish; Domed sapphire crystals front and rear, double-sided AR coating, liquid Super-LumiNova fill; 100m water resistance (tested to 260m); 20mm lug width; 35g head weight.

Movement: Sellita for MING SW300.M1; Automatic winding; Anthracite skeletonized bridges and customized rotor; Approximately 50h power reserve.

Dial: Two-part Grade 2 titanium; Radial and circular brushed finishes; Super-LumiNova X1 coated hands.

Strap: 20mm grey goat leather strap; Fitted with ‘flying blade’ brushed Grade 2 titanium tuck buckle.

Price: CHF 3,500.

Reference Number: 37.02

Notes: Constructed extensively from Grade 2 titanium (case, dial, buckle); Achieved water resistance significantly higher (260m) than the stated 100m; Limited edition of 250 watches; Very light head weight at 35 grams.