Max Büsser, the founder of MB&F, isn't known for making conventional watches. His brainchildren aren't your typical timepieces; they're more akin to intricate, mechanical sculptures that just happen to tell time. From spacefaring spaceships to jellyfish with pulsating tentacles, MB&F's creations are conversation starters to say the least. But in 2015, Büsser decided to foray into the more traditional realm of haute horlogerie with the Legacy Machine Perpetual. This wasn't just any perpetual calendar watch, though. It was a reimagining of the complication, one that was as audacious in its design as it was innovative in its mechanics.
And now, in 2023, the Legacy Machine Perpetual has itself evolved into the Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO. It's still unmistakably an
MB&F creation, but it's been tweaked and refined to be more wearable and robust, making it a true companion for the modern adventurer.
Courtesy of MB&F
The perpetual calendar is one of the most prestigious complications in watchmaking. It's a mechanical marvel that can automatically keep track of the date, even accounting for leap years, for centuries to come. But traditional perpetual calendars can be finicky and delicate. Setting them can be a complex process, and they're not exactly known for their shock resistance.
The Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO throws all that out the window. Its innovative movement, designed by renowned watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, uses a "mechanical processor" to calculate the date. This means there's no need for the complex gears and levers that are typical of perpetual calendars. As a result, the EVO is more robust and easier to set. It's also more visually interesting, with the processor's components on full display beneath the domed sapphire crystal.
The EVO's case is made of either zirconium or titanium, both of which are lighter and more scratch-resistant than stainless steel. It's also water-resistant to 80 meters, so you don't have to baby it. And thanks to a new shock-absorbing system called the "FlexRing," it can even withstand a few knocks and bumps.
Courtesy of MB&F
But the EVO isn't just about toughness. It's also about comfort. The integrated rubber strap is supple and flexible, and the case curves ergonomically to hug the wrist. This is a watch that you can wear all day, every day, without it getting in the way.
The Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO is not your average watch. It's a bold statement piece that's as much about art as it is about horology. It's a watch for collectors who appreciate innovation and craftsmanship, and who aren't afraid to push the boundaries of what a watch can be.
Courtesy of MB&F
In the world of MB&F watches, the dial is akin to the stage at a high-end magic show. It's where the visual spectacle happens, where mechanical wizardry comes to life. The Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO Blue does not disappoint in this regard. Its mesmerizing dial is a layered composition of depth, color, and motion that rewards extended gazing.
Let's start with the most striking element – the massive suspended balance wheel. This isn't just an aesthetic flourish. The balance wheel is the beating heart of a mechanical watch, regulating the passage of time. But here, it's elevated to the status of protagonist. Hovering majestically above the rest of the dial, the gleaming balance wheel seems to pulse with its own independent life.
The rest of the dial is divided into subdials – little portholes into the inner workings of the watch. Each subdial features a beautifully etched and lacquered plate that catches the light in different ways. The icy blue CVD treated dial plate serves as the backdrop to this celestial spectacle, shifting from sky blue to deep indigo depending on how the light catches it.
But unlike other perpetual calendar watches, the EVO doesn't simply cram all the date information onto the dial. MB&F recognizes that sometimes less is more. The day, date, month, and leap year are each displayed in separate subdials, creating a sense of space and balance. Additionally, a power reserve indicator shaped like a segmented dome lets you know when it's time to replenish the energy stores of those double-barreled mainsprings.
Courtesy of MB&F
The Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO Blue is a study in contrasts. The cool blue of the dial is juxtaposed with the warm, almost pink hues of the exposed bridges and gears. The traditional complication of a perpetual calendar is delivered in a thoroughly modern and unconventional package. This tension is what makes the EVO Blue so captivating to look at – it's a harmonious clash of the old and the new.
Of course, MB&F's commitment to high-level craftsmanship is evident at every turn. The finishing on the movement components is simply superb. The polished surfaces gleam like mirrors, while the beveled edges catch the light in a way that only hand-finishing can.
One of the biggest changes with the EVO is its focus on wearability. The integrated rubber strap isn't just comfortable – it also gives the watch a sporty edge. But don't mistake sportiness for a lack of sophistication. The EVO Blue looks incredible paired with a suit, adding just a hint of rule-breaking zest. It's the kind of watch that can easily go from boardroom to beach to the bar.
The case also plays a big role in the EVO Blue's versatility. At 44mm, it's certainly on the larger side. However, thanks to the short lugs and ergonomically curved shape, it sits beautifully on most wrists. It's imposing without being overwhelming, making it ideal for folks who aren't afraid of a larger watch.
The Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO Blue isn't just a watch – it's a mechanical legacy destined to be passed down for generations. With its blend of innovative mechanics, robust construction, and avant-garde design, it's a testament to MB&F's visionary approach to watchmaking. Even in an era of fleeting trends and planned obsolescence, this is a piece crafted to endure – both physically and aesthetically.
Courtesy of MB&F
Let's not forget that the EVO Blue is also extremely limited – it's one of just a handful of models produced by MB&F each year. This scarcity adds to its allure, making it a true grail watch for collectors.
The Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO Blue is an impressive watch. It's a testament to the brand's ability to blend tradition with avant-garde design, innovation with craftsmanship. It is an investment piece, an object of desire, and a functional tool all rolled into a visually captivating package. It's the kind of watch that makes you question everything you think you know about traditional watchmaking. Above all, it's further proof that MB&F is in a league of its own.