The world of haute horology is often seen as a realm of tradition, where timepieces are meticulously crafted works of art that pay homage to a rich history. But every now and then, a collaboration comes along that throws a wrench into the works, in the best way possible. Such is the case with the new M.A.D.1 “Time to Love,” a unique timepiece that marks the first foray into watchmaking by legendary French artist and designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac (JCDC).
For those unfamiliar with JCDC, a quick introduction is in order. JCDC is a true maverick in the fashion world. Throughout his five-decade career, he has consistently challenged conventions with his avant-garde and often playful designs. He’s not afraid to use unconventional materials or juxtapose seemingly disparate elements. Some of his most famous creations include a teddy bear coat, a “poncho for two,” and even the robes worn by Pope John Paul II’s entourage for World Youth Day in 1997. His artistic sensibilities extend beyond fashion into installations, performances, and even street art.
Courtesy of MB&F
So how did this world-renowned artist end up collaborating on a wristwatch? The answer lies with Maximilian Büsser, the founder of MB&F, the independent watchmaking brand that created the M.A.D.1 line. Büsser, a longtime admirer of JCDC’s work, reached out to the designer on a whim via Instagram to see if he’d be interested in a collaboration. This chance encounter sparked a creative partnership that resulted in the M.A.D.1 “Time to Love.”
The “Time to Love” is more than just a watch; it’s a fusion of JCDC’s artistic vision and MB&F’s technical expertise. The watch itself is based on the M.A.D.1 platform, a series of more accessible watches from the
MB&F brand. However, JCDC has imbued the timepiece with his signature style. The most striking feature of the watch is the rotor, the disc that spins with the wearer’s movement and winds the automatic movement. Traditionally, rotors are rather utilitarian objects, often hidden from view. But not on the “Time to Love.” JCDC has transformed the rotor into a miniature work of art.
Imagine a vibrant disc divided into three sections, each colored in one of JCDC’s signature hues: red for passion, blue for hope, and yellow for human warmth. These colors are applied using lacquer to a newly-engineered rotor, where one of the wings is designed to be slightly heavier than the other two for optimal rotation. A bright green, another color close to JCDC’s heart, also graces the watch on the hour disc.
Courtesy of MB&F
JCDC’s artistic touches extend to the dial as well. The dial base features a quote from the artist in French, which translates to English as: “This rare and precious treasure is your life. Time flies with its white wings. You are the guardian of your time.” The watch hands are absent; instead, the time is indicated by two separate, revolving discs for the hours and minutes. The numbers on the discs are in JCDC’s own handwriting, adding a personal touch. The crown, the knob used to wind the watch and adjust the time, features an engraving of an angel talking to the moon, a recurring motif in JCDC’s artwork.
At first glance, the "Time to Love" might seem like a whimsical art object with a playful approach to timekeeping. And there's no denying its eye-catching, artistic flair. However, beneath the vibrant surface lies a reliable and technically impressive mechanical heart.
The watch is powered by an inverted Miyota 8215 automatic movement. "Inverted" means the movement is flipped over within the case, exposing the winding rotor with JCDC's artwork on top rather than tucking it away out of sight. This movement is known for its robustness and accuracy – a perfect base for this unconventional watch. It boasts a healthy 60-hour power reserve, meaning you won't need to worry about winding it frequently.
Courtesy of MB&F
The unique method by which the M.A.D.1 displays time is the real standout feature. Instead of traditional hands, the "Time to Love" uses separate engraved aluminum alloy discs for hours and minutes. These discs rotate smoothly beneath a sapphire crystal dome, providing a mesmerizing way to read the time. The numbers for both hours and minutes are rendered in JCDC's own handwriting and filled with Super-LumiNova, adding a touch of personality and ensuring visibility in low light.
The case of the M.A.D.1 "Time to Love" is crafted from stainless steel, providing a durable and timeless base for JCDC's colorful embellishments. It measures a substantial 42mm in diameter, giving it a bold wrist presence without venturing into overly large territory. The overall height of 18.8mm makes it thicker than a typical dress watch but ensures that the time-indicating discs clear the dial's base, which is crucial for legibility.
A combination of sapphire crystal for the top of the case and mineral glass for the sides gives the wearer a unique vantage point into the workings of the watch. This blend of materials provides optimal scratch resistance on the exposed, domed portion while reducing costs on areas less prone to impact. Water resistance of 30 meters or 3 ATM means you won't need to fret about light splashes or an unexpected rainstorm, but it's a reminder that this isn't a watch built for water sports.
Courtesy of MB&F
Completing the package is a choice of two leather straps: one in black and another in white. They both feature the words "Time To Love" stitched in JCDC's signature colors, tying them perfectly into the watch's vibrant theme. Each strap is equipped with a folding buckle crafted from stainless steel. It's a simple touch, allowing you to swap out strap colors quickly for a completely different look to match your mood or outfit.
JCDC has never been a conventional designer; he thrives on pushing boundaries and infusing his work with meaning. Likewise, MB&F is not a company that rests on its laurels, consistently taking creative risks. The M.A.D.1 "Time to Love" is a testament to both these entities' shared passion for challenging expectations. It's a statement piece – a conversation starter for those who appreciate a blend of technical mastery and artistic expression.
Courtesy of MB&F
JCDC's playful yet profound philosophy is woven seamlessly throughout the watch. His quote on the dial – "This rare and precious treasure is your life. Time flies with its white wings. You are the guardian of your time." – serves as a poignant reminder to savor each moment. The colorful rotor is a visual cue to seek out joy and the beauty of the ordinary. The slightly oddball way of reading time forces you to slow down, just for a second, and appreciate the passage of minutes in a fresh way.
The M.A.D.1 "Time to Love" won't be for everyone. That's precisely the point. There's an inherent contradiction in a high-watchmaking collaboration with an artist known for upcycling and accessibility, but that tension is exactly what makes this watch so intriguing. It represents a break from the often-stoic world of watches and a celebration of life, love, and a whole lot of color. It’s about finding that inner child in all of us, who looked at a wristwatch with the wonder of seeing it for the very first time.