Louis Erard x GoS Le Regulateur

The Louis Erard x GoS Le Regulateur represents a fascinating intersection of Swiss watchmaking mechanics and Swedish metalworking artistry. This collaboration, initiated in 2021 by Manuel Emch of Louis Erard and Patrik Sjögren of GoS Watches, aimed to seamlessly blend the distinct design languages of both brands. The outcome, after three years of development, is a limited-edition timepiece that highlights the unique beauty of Damascus steel.



Louis Erard, established in 1929, has a rich history in Swiss watchmaking. The brand is rooted in the Swiss Jura, a region renowned for its horological expertise. Under the guidance of Manuel Emch, Louis Erard has experienced a strategic resurgence, focused on making high-quality craftsmanship accessible while embracing collaborations with innovative creators. This approach is evident in their partnerships with artists like Alain Silberstein and Konstantin Chaykin, which frequently push the boundaries of traditional watch design. Louis Erard's core values focus on creativity and independence, driving the creation of timepieces that offer unique artistic expression.



GoS Watches, founded in 2007 by Patrik Sjögren, is based in Linköping, Sweden. Sjögren, a master watchmaker, is known for his meticulous craftsmanship and his focus on incorporating Damascus steel into his watches. This material, traditionally used in blades, is crafted by Swedish blacksmith Conny Persson. The collaboration between Sjögren and Persson is central to GoS, as they work together to bring ancient Scandinavian metalworking techniques into the realm of modern watchmaking. GoS's designs are deeply inspired by Scandinavian nature and history, reflected in the unique, handcrafted quality of each timepiece.



The Le Regulateur’s 39mm polished stainless steel case provides a frame for the remarkable dial. The case dimensions, with a 20mm lug width and 45.9mm lug-to-lug length, offer a comfortable and balanced presence on the wrist. The three-piece case construction, complete with a domed sapphire crystal treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides, emphasizes the dial's visual impact while ensuring durability. The watch is water-resistant to 5 bars (50 meters), making it suitable for daily wear, though not designed for deep-sea diving. A signature "fir tree" crown, a detail specific to this collaboration, adds a touch of unique branding to the case design.



The dial is the focal point of this watch. For the first time in Louis Erard's history, it features Damascus steel. Each dial is unique, forged by Conny Persson and hand-finished by Patrik Sjögren. The steel undergoes a special treatment that enhances the contrast between its light and dark areas, creating a pattern that evokes the natural grain of wood. This treatment results in a captivating visual texture, making each of the 178 pieces unique. The dial's design retains the classic regulator layout, with a central minute hand, an hour subdial at 12 o'clock, and a small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock.



The hands themselves are a distinct GoS design element. They are finished in blue, complementing the steel's tones. The small seconds counter at 6 o'clock incorporates a triskelion motif, a recurring symbol in GoS's designs. The hour and minute tracks feature sharp notches, another design cue from GoS, contributing to the watch's distinctive look. The outer and hour counter rehaute are rhodium-plated with a circular satin finish and diamond-polished angles. White transfers of the Louis Erard and GoS symbols are discreetly placed at the 3 o'clock position.



Inside the watch beats the automatic Sellita SW266-1 regulator movement. This Swiss-made caliber operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and features 31 jewels. It's an elaborated grade movement, meaning it has been carefully decorated. The rotor is specifically openworked and features a black lacquered Louis Erard symbol. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. The movement is visible through the crystal case back, allowing the wearer to appreciate the mechanical workings.



The watch is presented on a strap that continues the theme of natural inspiration. It's crafted from black salmon leather, a first for Louis Erard, and is lined with black calfskin. The use of salmon leather is a subtle nod to GoS's Nordic heritage. The strap features a polished stainless steel pin buckle and quick-release spring bars, making it easy to change. An additional strap, made of black grained calfskin with tone-on-tone stitching, is also included, offering a more traditional option.



The limited-edition nature of this watch, with only 178 pieces produced, adds to its collectible appeal. The number 178 is symbolic, representing the phrase "stronger together" in its calligraphy, reflecting the collaborative spirit between Louis Erard and GoS. This limited production run ensures a degree of exclusivity for those who acquire this timepiece.



The technical specifications of the watch are well-considered. The 39mm case diameter is a versatile size, suitable for a wide range of wrist sizes. The use of stainless steel provides durability, while the sapphire crystal ensures scratch resistance. The regulator layout, with its separate displays for hours, minutes, and seconds, offers a different way of reading time, adding a layer of interest for watch enthusiasts.



The dial's Damascus steel is the true star of the show. The complex patterns and contrasts in the steel are mesmerizing. The process of creating Damascus steel involves folding and welding different types of steel together, then treating the resulting material to reveal the intricate patterns. This ancient technique, combined with modern watchmaking precision, creates a watch that is both visually striking and technically sound.



The collaboration between Louis Erard and GoS is a good example of how two brands with different backgrounds can come together to create something unique. Louis Erard's expertise in Swiss watchmaking is complemented by GoS's mastery of Damascus steel and Scandinavian design. The result is a timepiece that transcends the boundaries of either brand, offering a blend of technical precision and handcrafted artistry.



The pricing of the Louis Erard x GoS Le Regulateur is set at CHF 4,250 (excluding VAT). This price point places it in the mid-range luxury watch market. While not inexpensive, it reflects the limited-edition nature of the watch, the craftsmanship involved, and the unique materials used.



Case: Polished stainless steel, 39 mm. Lug width: 20 mm, lug-to-lug: 45.9 mm, thickness: 12.82 mm. 3-piece construction. Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides. Movement visible through the crystal caseback. Water-resistant up to a pressure of 5 bars (50 m / 165 ft). Signature fir tree crown.



Movement: Automatic regulator, Sellita SW266-1 caliber. 11''' , Ø 25.6 mm, height: 5.6 mm. 31 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz). Elaborated grade movement, carefully decorated. Specially openworked rotor with black lacquered Louis Erard symbol. Approx. 38 hours of power reserve.



Dial: Outer rehaut and hour counter rehaut rhodium-plated with circular satin finish and diamond-polished angles. Lower plate made of Damascus steel by Conny Persson (blacksmith). Louis Erard and GoS symbols transferred in white at 3 o'clock. Dial designed by Patrik Sjögren (GoS). Blue signature GoS hands. Hour hand in counter at 12 o'clock, central minute hand, second hand in counter at 6 o'clock.



Strap: Seamless black salmon leather, black calfskin lining, polished stainless steel pin buckle, quick-release spring bars. Dimensions: width 20/18mm, length 80/115 mm. Additional strap: Black grained calfskin with tone-on-tone stitching, black calfskin lining, polished stainless steel pin buckle, quick-release spring bars. Dimensions: width 22/20mm, length 80/115 mm.



Price: CHF 4,250 (excluding VAT)



Reference Number: 85248AA03.BSA02



Notes: Watch developed in collaboration with Patrik Sjögren (GoS). Limited edition of 178 pieces. Each watch features a one-of-a-kind dial made from Damascus Steel.