Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon

Longines, a name synonymous with Swiss watchmaking since 1832, has consistently pushed the boundaries of horology, and the Ultra-Chron Carbon is a testament to their unwavering commitment to progress. This watch pulls inspiration from the iconic 1968 Ultra-Chron Diver, which was a trailblazer in its own right, being the first dive watch equipped with a high-frequency movement. Longines is a member of the Swatch Group Ltd, which is the world's leading manufacturer of timepieces. The Longines brand, with its winged hourglass emblem, is represented in over 150 countries.

The Ultra-Chron Carbon marks a significant milestone for Longines, as it's the first time they've utilized carbon fiber in a watch case. The watch world often sees carbon fiber employed in high-performance sports cars and cutting-edge aeronautics. This material, renowned for its exceptional strength-to-weight ratio, is a perfect fit for a watch that's built for both performance and comfort. The 43mm cushion-shaped case, a nod to the 1968 original, is meticulously crafted from strips of unidirectional carbon fiber and epoxy resin. This unique process involves layering the materials into a mold, subjecting them to high heat and pressure, and then cold-cutting the solidified form. What emerges is a case with a captivating, almost organic texture, where the random arrangement of carbon fibers ensures that no two watches are exactly alike. Each piece is essentially a unique fingerprint, an artistic expression of mechanical prowess. The case itself is extremely lightweight, weighing in at under 80 grams total.



Beyond its visual appeal, the carbon case offers tangible benefits. Its lightweight nature, combined with the ergonomic cushion shape, makes the Ultra-Chron Carbon incredibly comfortable to wear. This is a watch you can strap on in the morning and forget about, even during extended periods, while maintaining its status as a robust tool watch, ready for any adventure. Water resistance is a serious matter for any dive watch, and the Ultra-Chron Carbon doesn't disappoint. With a rating of 30 bars, equivalent to 300 meters, this watch is more than capable of handling the pressures of the deep. Whether you're a professional diver or simply enjoy the occasional swim, you can have complete confidence in the Ultra-Chron Carbon's ability to keep water at bay. This is a watch that's built to withstand the rigors of an active lifestyle.

The bezel of the Ultra-Chron Carbon is a functional and aesthetic masterpiece. Fixed and crafted from titanium, it features an aluminum insert engraved with a clear, legible 60-minute scale, numbered in convenient 10-minute increments. This scale is crucial for divers, allowing them to accurately track their bottom time and ensure safe ascents. The titanium case back, also screw-down, reinforces the watch's water resistance and provides a solid foundation for the high-frequency movement within. Even the screw-down crown, essential for maintaining water resistance, is made from titanium, contributing to the watch's overall lightweight profile and durability. These elements work in harmony to create a cohesive and purpose-driven design.

Visually, the Ultra-Chron Carbon exudes a modern, technical aesthetic. The carbon case, with its dark, textured surface, sets the stage for a minimalist yet highly legible dial. The sand-blasted anthracite dial provides a subtle, non-reflective backdrop for the applied silver indices and the gray PVD-coated hands. This treatment enhances the dial's depth and texture, adding a layer of visual interest without sacrificing clarity. The sapphire crystal, treated with multiple layers of anti-reflective coating, ensures that the dial remains visible even in bright sunlight or underwater. This attention to detail is characteristic of Longines' commitment to both form and function.



The use of Super-LumiNova on the indices and hands is a practical touch that enhances the watch's legibility in low-light conditions. The blue luminescence offers a cool, modern glow that contrasts nicely with the dark dial, making it easy to read the time at a glance, whether you're exploring a dimly lit cave or simply checking the time in a darkened room. It is interesting how all of the numbers are spaced in even increments of ten around the outside of the dial. The "Longines" logo sits right underneath the 60 marker on the dial, with the "Ultra-Chron" logo right underneath that. The "Swiss Made" logo is located at the bottom of the dial underneath the 30 marker. The hour and minute hands are a very contrasting and distinct shape. The minute hand is longer and thinner, while the hour hand is shorter and fatter. This makes it very easy to tell which hand is which when glancing quickly at the dial. This contrast is essential for a dive watch, where quick, accurate readings can be critical.

At the heart of the Ultra-Chron Carbon lies the Longines caliber L.836.6, an exclusive high-frequency movement that beats at an impressive 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5 Hertz. This is significantly faster than most mechanical movements, which typically operate at 4 Hertz or 28,800 vibrations per hour. The higher frequency translates to greater precision and stability. The L.836.6 is equipped with a silicon balance spring, a modern innovation that offers numerous advantages over traditional metal balance springs. Silicon is lightweight, resistant to magnetism and temperature variations, and requires no lubrication. These properties contribute to the movement's accuracy and longevity, ensuring that the Ultra-Chron Carbon will keep ticking reliably for years to come. It is also up to ten times more resistant to magnetic fields than the ISO 764 standard.



The L.836.6 isn't just a high-performance movement; it's also a certified chronometer. This means that it has undergone rigorous testing by TIMELAB, an independent watch testing laboratory in Geneva, and has met the stringent accuracy standards set by the ISO 3159. The certification process involves subjecting the finished watch to a 15-day battery of tests in various positions and temperatures, ensuring that it maintains its accuracy under a wide range of conditions. This certification is a testament to the quality and precision of the movement, and it provides the wearer with the assurance that they have a truly exceptional timepiece on their wrist.

The Ultra-Chron Carbon is paired with a black technical fabric strap that complements the watch's modern aesthetic. This strap is not only stylish but also durable and comfortable, thanks to its titanium buckle. The choice of a fabric strap over a metal bracelet further reduces the watch's overall weight, making it even more comfortable for extended wear. The watch is presented in a bespoke black box, a fitting touch that underscores its unique character and makes it a compelling option for collectors and enthusiasts alike. It is also fitted with a 5 year warranty, which is always a bonus.

Longines has a long and storied history with high-frequency movements, dating back to 1910 when they patented their first pocket chronograph stopwatch capable of measuring 1/10th of a second. In 1914, they introduced a high-frequency stopwatch with a split-second hand, capable of measuring time to 1/10th of a second. This was followed by a very high frequency stopwatch in 1916, capable of measuring time to 1/100th of a second. These early innovations cemented Longines' reputation as a leader in precision timekeeping, particularly in the field of sports. This expertise in high-frequency movements laid the groundwork for their later development of high-frequency wristwatches.



In 1959, Longines achieved a significant milestone by incorporating high frequency into a wristwatch for the first time, specifically for observatory chronometer competitions. This marked a turning point in the brand's pursuit of accuracy. Building on this success, Longines began applying their high-frequency expertise to mass production, aiming to offer improved stability and precision compared to traditional mechanical movements. The high frequency effectively mitigated the impact of disturbances associated with wearing a watch, such as shocks, changes in position, or acceleration. These high-frequency calibers demonstrated superior performance by recovering their frequency consistency more quickly.

Over the years, Longines continued to refine their high-frequency technology, developing a wide range of chronographs and chronometers that solidified their reputation in professional sports timekeeping and the production of high-precision watches. The introduction of the Ultra-Chron in 1966 marked another milestone, with Longines guaranteeing an accuracy of one minute per month, or two seconds per day. This was a remarkable achievement for the time and further established Longines as a leader in high-frequency watchmaking. The 1968 Ultra-Chron Diver, the first high-frequency diver's watch, further expanded the brand's reach and solidified its position in the world of sports watches.



The Ultra-Chron Carbon, with its cutting-edge materials and high-frequency movement, is a fitting tribute to Longines' legacy of innovation. It's a watch that seamlessly blends heritage with modernity, offering a unique combination of style, performance, and precision. This watch is a testament to Longines' unwavering commitment to pushing the boundaries of horology, and it's sure to be a coveted piece for collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate the brand's rich history and technical prowess.

The Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon is available for purchase at authorized Longines retailers and online, with a retail price of US$4,900. This price point positions it as a premium offering within the Longines collection, reflecting the watch's advanced materials, high-frequency movement, and chronometer certification. While it may be a significant investment, the Ultra-Chron Carbon offers a unique combination of features and a level of craftsmanship that justifies its price. For those who value precision, innovation, and a touch of exclusivity, the Ultra-Chron Carbon is a compelling choice that delivers on its promises.

Case: 43mm diameter, 48mm lug-to-lug, 13.6mm thick. Cushion-shaped case made from unidirectional carbon fiber and epoxy resin. Titanium bezel with aluminum insert, titanium screw-down crown and case back. Sapphire crystal with multi-layer anti-reflective treatment. Water-resistant to 30 bars (300 meters).

Movement: Longines exclusive caliber L.836.6. Automatic with manual winding and hacking. 36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz). 52-hour power reserve. 25 jewels. Silicon balance spring. Chronometer-certified by TIMELAB to ISO 3159 standards.

Dial: Sand-blasted anthracite gray. 12 applied silver indices. Gray PVD-coated hour and minute hands. Super-LumiNova blue luminescence treatment on indices and hands.

Strap: Black technical fabric. Titanium buckle.

Price: US$4,900

Notes: First Longines watch to feature a carbon fiber case. The unique manufacturing process ensures each case has a unique pattern. The entire watch is certified as a chronometer. The watch also features a fixed bezel which is uncommon on a dive watch.