The German watchmaking tradition is a tapestry woven with threads of precision, innovation, and a dedication to craftsmanship. Laco, a name synonymous with this legacy, has been a part of this intricate weave for nearly a century. From its roots in the "Golden City" of Pforzheim,
Laco has consistently delivered timepieces that embody both the rich history of German watchmaking and a forward-thinking approach to design and functionality. With the release of the Edition 99, Laco offers a commemorative piece that not only celebrates its past but also sets the stage for its future.
Laco's journey began in 1925, in the heart of Pforzheim, a city renowned for its expertise in the art of watchmaking. It was here that Laco established itself as a purveyor of high-quality timepieces, gaining particular recognition during the 1940s for its production of the iconic 55mm observation watches. As one of only five licensed manufacturers of these essential aviator tools, Laco played a crucial role in equipping pilots during a pivotal period in history. These robust and reliable watches, designed for clarity and precision in the demanding conditions of flight, became a testament to Laco's commitment to functional excellence.
Courtesy of Laco
The post-war era saw Laco grow into one of Germany's largest watch manufacturers, employing over 1200 individuals at its peak. While the company has since adapted to the evolving landscape of the watchmaking industry, it has never wavered from its dedication to quality and craftsmanship. Today, Laco retains its focus on producing timepieces that blend historical significance with contemporary appeal. The Edition 99 exemplifies this philosophy, serving as a bridge between Laco's storied past and its promising future.
The Edition 99 is more than just a commemorative watch; it's a culmination of Laco's watchmaking expertise, a piece that draws inspiration from the brand's extensive archives while incorporating modern design elements. This limited-edition timepiece, restricted to just 99 pieces worldwide, is a fitting tribute to Laco's nearly 100 years of dedication to the craft. It represents the fifth installment in Laco's "MISSION 2025" series, a collection of special edition watches leading up to the brand's centennial celebration.
One of the most striking aspects of the Edition 99 is its ability to seamlessly blend elements from different Laco collections. It's the first watch to combine features of the Original and PRO series with the accessibility of the basic collection. This unique fusion creates a timepiece that is both familiar and distinctive, offering a fresh perspective on Laco's design language. The watch's 42mm stainless steel case, for instance, bears the iconic FL23883 engraving, a hallmark of the Original and PRO series typically associated with historical observation watches. This engraving, now introduced to the basic collection, adds a touch of historical authenticity to the Edition 99.
The case itself is a study in contrasts, with its rounded lugs and matte sandblasted finish conveying a sense of ruggedness that is perfectly balanced by the refined elegance of the dark brown leather strap. The sandblasted buckle on the strap echoes the case's finish, creating a harmonious visual flow. This attention to detail, where each element is carefully considered and integrated into the overall design, is a hallmark of Laco's approach to watchmaking.
Courtesy of Laco
The Edition 99's dial is a testament to Laco's respect for its heritage. It features the classic Baumuster B layout, a design synonymous with traditional pilot watches. This layout, characterized by its clear and concise presentation of time, ensures optimal legibility, a crucial feature for pilots relying on their watches for accurate timekeeping during flight. Adding another layer of historical authenticity, the dial incorporates a unique detail from historical timepieces: only every second numeral on the outer minute ring is coated with Superluminova C3. This luminous material, nearly white in daylight, transforms into a vibrant green glow in low-light conditions, providing exceptional readability without compromising the watch's vintage aesthetic.
The thermally blued hands, another nod to traditional watchmaking techniques, further enhance the Edition 99's visual appeal. This intricate process involves heating the hands to approximately 300°C, creating a
Deep Blue oxide layer that not only adds a touch of sophistication but also provides protection against corrosion. The blued hands, combined with the Superluminova C3 coating, ensure that the Edition 99 remains legible in all lighting conditions, a testament to its functional design.
Laco has also taken the opportunity to introduce a redesigned crown with the Edition 99. Larger and more tactile than the crowns found on other basic models, yet more refined than those on the Original series, this new crown strikes a perfect balance between functionality and aesthetics. Its size and knurled texture provide enhanced grip and precise handling, making it easier to adjust the time. This subtle but significant improvement underscores Laco's commitment to continuous refinement and user experience.
At the heart of the Edition 99 beats the Laco 2S automatic movement, based on the reliable Miyota 82S0. This movement, visible through the sapphire crystal case back, offers a power reserve of 42 hours and a stop-seconds function for precise time setting. For those seeking even greater performance, Laco offers an optional upgrade to the Laco 31 caliber, based on the Miyota 8315, which boasts a 60-hour power reserve and thermally blued screws. This choice allows watch enthusiasts to personalize their Edition 99 according to their preferences.
Courtesy of Laco
At first glance, the Edition 99 commands attention with its 42mm stainless steel case. This is a size that strikes a harmonious balance between wrist presence and everyday wearability. It's substantial enough to make a statement without being overly cumbersome. The case's dark sandblasted finish adds a touch of ruggedness, hinting at the watch's pilot watch heritage. This finish not only enhances the watch's visual appeal but also provides a degree of scratch resistance, ensuring that the Edition 99 retains its good looks even with regular wear.
The decision to use a sandblasted finish, as opposed to a polished one, is a deliberate choice that speaks to the Edition 99's utilitarian roots. It's a finish that's more commonly found on tool watches, timepieces designed to withstand the rigors of demanding environments. By incorporating this finish, Laco subtly reinforces the Edition 99's connection to its aviation-inspired lineage.
Protecting the dial is a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. This choice of crystal is a hallmark of quality in watchmaking. Sapphire is known for its exceptional hardness, second only to diamond, making it highly resistant to scratches and abrasions. This ensures that the Edition 99's dial remains clear and legible for years to come.
The dial itself is a masterpiece of minimalist design. Executed in a matte black finish, it provides a stark contrast to the watch's luminous hands and numerals, enhancing readability. The dial layout follows the classic Baumuster B style, a hallmark of traditional pilot watches. This design prioritizes clarity and functionality, ensuring that the time can be read at a glance, even in challenging conditions.
The numerals and indices on the dial are coated with Superluminova C3, a high-performance luminous material that emits a bright green glow in low-light conditions. This ensures that the Edition 99 remains legible even in the dark, a crucial feature for any pilot watch. As mentioned previously, Laco has opted to apply the luminous material only to the even numerals on the outer minute ring, a detail inspired by historical observation watches. This subtle touch adds a touch of vintage charm to the Edition 99, further connecting it to its heritage.
Courtesy of Laco
The hands of the Edition 99 are another highlight. Crafted from stainless steel and thermally blued, they possess a deep blue hue that adds a touch of sophistication to the watch's overall aesthetic. The bluing process, a time-honored technique in watchmaking, not only enhances the hands' visual appeal but also provides a degree of corrosion resistance. The hands are also filled with Superluminova C3, ensuring optimal legibility in all lighting conditions.
One of the most distinctive features of the Edition 99 is its crown. Larger and more pronounced than the crowns found on other Laco basic models, it features a knurled texture that provides exceptional grip and ease of use. The crown is also engraved with the number "99," a subtle reminder of the watch's limited-edition status. This attention to detail, even on a component as seemingly small as the crown, speaks to Laco's commitment to quality and craftsmanship.
Powering the Edition 99 is the Laco 2S automatic movement, based on the Miyota 82S0. This reliable and robust movement offers a power reserve of 42 hours and features a hacking seconds function, which allows for precise time setting. The movement is visible through the sapphire crystal case back, allowing watch enthusiasts to admire its intricate workings. For those seeking even greater performance, Laco offers an optional upgrade to the Laco 31 caliber, based on the Miyota 8315. This upgraded movement boasts a 60-hour power reserve and features thermally blued screws, adding a touch of visual flair to the movement's appearance.
Completing the Edition 99 is a dark brown leather strap with light stitching and rivets. This strap perfectly complements the watch's overall aesthetic, adding a touch of vintage charm. The strap is made from genuine leather, ensuring both comfort and durability. The use of rivets, a detail often found on pilot watch straps, adds a touch of ruggedness and reinforces the Edition 99's connection to its aviation heritage.
Courtesy of Laco
The Laco Edition 99 is presented in a grey gift box with a zip fastener. The box also includes a limited-edition pin and a certificate of authenticity, further emphasizing the watch's exclusivity.
With a retail price of $590 USD, the Laco Edition 99 offers exceptional value for a limited-edition watch with such a rich heritage and impressive specifications. It's a timepiece that appeals to both seasoned watch collectors and newcomers to the world of mechanical watches. Its blend of classic design, modern features, and meticulous craftsmanship makes it a watch that can be enjoyed for years to come.
Case: Stainless steel case, dark sandblasted. 42mm diameter, 11.7mm thick, 50mm lug-to-lug. 20mm lug width. Sapphire crystal and 5 ATM water resistance.
Movement: Laco 2S automatic movement (Miyota 82S0 base). 42-hour power reserve. Hacking seconds. Optional upgrade to Laco 31 caliber (Miyota 8315 base) with 60-hour power reserve and thermally blued screws available.
Dial: Matte black dial. Baumuster B style layout. Even numerals with Superluminova C3. Thermally blued hands with Superluminova C3.
Strap: Dark brown leather strap with light stitching and rivets.
Price: 590 US$
Notes: Limited edition of 99 pieces. Each watch has an engraved serial number on the case back. Features design elements from the Laco Original, PRO, and basic collections.