The independent watch manufacture KUDOKE continues its journey through the art of watchmaking with the introduction of the KUDOKE 5 (K5), a significant new entry within its acclaimed HANDwerk collection. This timepiece represents a thoughtful evolution, building upon the foundation laid by previous models while introducing a distinct focus and refined execution. The K5 distinguishes itself by elevating the 24-hour display from a secondary complication to the very core of the watch's identity and function, creating a compelling narrative between the wearer and the passage of time.
Stefan Kudoke, the founder and master watchmaker behind the brand, embarked on his independent venture over two decades ago, driven by what he termed a "crazy idea" to create his own watches. His journey began after acquiring extensive experience and skills working with prestigious names in the industry, including Glashütte Original, Breguet, and Blancpain. Completing his training as a master watchmaker provided the technical foundation, but it was his passion for the craft that led him to establish KUDOKE in 2008. Initially, he gained recognition for his KUNSTwerk collection, showcasing exceptional hand-skeletonized and intricately engraved art pieces.
Courtesy of Kudoke
However, Stefan Kudoke felt a pull towards exploring deeper aspects of watchmaking technology. After more than ten years dedicated to mastering the art of skeletonization, he sought further development. This led to the creation of the HANDwerk collection, launched alongside the KUNSTwerk line. The HANDwerk series emphasizes the importance of traditional craftsmanship, utilizing centuries-old techniques to preserve the practical expertise of historical watchmaking. This dedication to craft is a cornerstone of the brand's philosophy.
The development of the in-house base movement, Kaliber 1, first presented in 2018, marked a pivotal moment for KUDOKE and the HANDwerk collection. It represented the fulfillment of a long-held ambition for Stefan Kudoke, providing a unique canvas for his vision. This movement drew inspiration from the design principles of historical English pocket watches, incorporating specific forms and aesthetics that resonated with Kudoke. He recalls purchasing an old English pocket watch movement years prior, which lay dormant until the idea for his own caliber began to solidify, providing valuable creative impulses.
Since the advent of Kaliber 1, the HANDwerk collection has seen a steady and creative expansion. KUDOKE 1 and KUDOKE 2, introduced in 2019, first established Stefan Kudoke’s distinct signature style within this series. These were followed by KUDOKE 3 in 2023, which offered a creative interpretation of time display, and KUDOKE 8 (Infinity) in 2024, a piece centered around the concept of infinity, often symbolized in the hand-engraved balance cock found across the collection. Now, the KUDOKE 5 continues this narrative, shifting the focus squarely onto the 24-hour indication.
The KUDOKE 5 takes the 24-hour complication, which played a more supporting role in the award-winning KUDOKE 2, and places it center stage. The defining feature is a large, domed celestial disk, meticulously hand-engraved, which serves as the primary time-telling element. This disk completes a single, slow rotation every 24 hours, visually representing the cycle of day and night. It’s a departure from conventional hour and minute hands, offering a more conceptual and intuitive way to perceive the daily rhythm.
This approach to time display aims to mirror our natural connection to the sun's progression across the sky. Instead of segmenting time into conventional 12-hour cycles with AM/PM indicators or a smaller 24-hour sub-dial, the K5 presents the entire day visually. The slow rotation reflects the steady, continuous flow of time, moving from sunrise through midday, sunset, and midnight, without breaking it into what the brand considers artificial phases. It encourages a different relationship with time, one perhaps more aligned with natural cycles.
Courtesy of Kudoke
Reading the time on the KUDOKE 5 is designed to be intuitive. The upper half of the dial reveals a portion of the rotating celestial disk, and this visible segment indicates the current time within the 24-hour cycle. A quick glance is sufficient to understand whether it is day or night. When the brightly finished, sun-like portion of the disk is positioned at the top center (12 o'clock position on a traditional dial), it signifies midday. Conversely, when the dark, night-sky portion is at the top, it represents midnight.
To aid in more precise time reading, the chapter ring surrounding the central disk is marked in 15-minute increments. Furthermore, integrated into the "night" section of the rotating disk is a subtle golden triangle. This pointer aligns with the chapter ring's markings, allowing the wearer to ascertain the time within a quarter-hour resolution. This combination of the broad visual indicator (day/night disk) and the specific marker (golden triangle and chapter ring) balances the conceptual display with practical usability.
The celestial disk itself is a miniature work of art, inviting close inspection. It is intricately hand-engraved, featuring details meant to evoke the wonder of stargazing. Prominently featured within the night sky section is the constellation Ursa Minor, also known as the Little Bear. Within this constellation, Polaris (the North Star), the formation's brightest star, is depicted. Polaris has served as a crucial navigational reference point in the northern hemisphere for centuries, adding a layer of historical and symbolic depth to the design.
The visual richness of the disk is further enhanced through a complex finishing process. Different sections undergo sequential galvanic treatments, applying layers of yellow gold, white rhodium, and black rhodium. This meticulous electroplating process creates strong contrasts between the day and night portions and highlights the intricate details of the hand-engraving, giving them a striking, almost three-dimensional relief against their background. The interplay of these finishes contributes significantly to the dial's character.
Courtesy of Kudoke
Surrounding this dynamic centerpiece is a two-part dial ring. This component features the easily readable 15-minute increments essential for telling time precisely. The main surface of the dial base has a frosted finish and is silvered, providing a subtle, textured background that allows the celestial disk and chapter ring to stand out. The chapter ring itself is rhodinized, offering a slightly different tone and finish that delineates it clearly.
A notable detail of the dial ring is its finely crafted diamond-cut edges. These polished bevels interact with ambient light, creating a dynamic play of reflections that changes depending on the viewing angle. This adds a subtle sparkle and visual interest to the dial's periphery, framing the central display and enhancing the overall perceived quality and attention to detail in the watch's finishing.
Visually, the KUDOKE 5 presents a compelling tableau. The large rotating disk dominates the view, its surface transitioning from the warm yellow gold representing day to the deep, contrasting black and white rhodium finishes of the night sky, studded with engraved stars. The domed shape of the disk, combined with the highly domed sapphire crystal above it, creates a sense of depth and volume, making the celestial display appear almost suspended within the case.
The case housing this intricate display has been newly designed by Stefan Kudoke for the K5. Crafted from stainless steel, it features brushed flanks that contrast subtly with potentially polished elements elsewhere (though the description focuses on the brushed finish). The diameter has been reduced to a versatile 38mm, aiming for a balance between presence on the wrist and comfortable wearability for a range of wrist sizes.
While the total height of the watch, including the prominent domed crystal, measures 12mm, the design cleverly minimizes the perceived thickness. The case band itself contributes to a visible height of only 7mm when viewed from the side. This design choice helps the watch wear thinner than its full measurement might suggest, enhancing comfort without sacrificing the dramatic effect of the domed crystal and internal display depth.
The case construction incorporates a screwed bezel and a screwed case back, contributing to its structural integrity and achieving a water resistance rating of 5 ATM (approximately 50 meters). This provides protection against everyday splashes and brief immersion, suitable for daily wear. The crown is a traditional onion shape, made of stainless steel, complementing the case design and offering easy grip for winding and setting.
Courtesy of Kudoke
Protecting the intricate dial is an anti-reflective sapphire crystal. Its significant dome is a key feature of the K5's design, not only providing scratch resistance but also acting as a lens that magnifies and enhances the three-dimensional quality of the celestial disk. It transforms the watch face into what feels like a miniature mechanical sculpture for the wrist, allowing the details of the disk and the play of light across its surfaces to be fully appreciated.
Turning the watch over reveals the heart of the KUDOKE 5: the in-house movement, designated Kaliber 1-24H_L. Visible through a sapphire crystal case back, this hand-winding movement is a version of the foundational Kaliber 1, adapted specifically for the K5's unique 24-hour display mechanism. It operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), contains 18 jewels, and offers a power reserve of approximately 46 hours when fully wound. The movement diameter is 30mm, with a height of 4.3mm, plus the additional height required for the disk and its bearing mechanism.
The finishing of the Kaliber 1-24H_L exemplifies KUDOKE's commitment to traditional handcraft. As with his earlier skeletonized work and other HANDwerk models, Stefan Kudoke places immense value on the manual refinement of components. Techniques include the careful polishing of edges on bridges and steel parts, intricate hand-engraving – most notably on the balance cock, which features Kudoke's signature infinity symbol – and a unique frosted surface treatment on the wheel bridge, achieved using a special reaming technology. Every step of the finishing process is executed exclusively by hand.
A specific technical challenge presented by the KUDOKE 5's design was the weight and friction associated with the large, rotating celestial disk. To address this and ensure smooth, reliable operation over time, KUDOKE integrated a ball bearing into the 24-hour mechanism. This is the first time such a solution has been implemented in a KUDOKE movement. The ball bearing significantly reduces friction, allowing the disk to rotate with minimal resistance and eliminating the need for additional lubrication in this part of the mechanism, contributing to the movement's longevity and stability.
Completing the KUDOKE 5 package are the strap and buckle options. The watch can be fitted with either a traditional leather strap or a strap made from Alcantara, a synthetic material known for its softness and durability, offering different textural experiences. The standard fastening is a pin buckle made of stainless steel, matching the case material. For those who prefer it, a deployment clasp is available as an optional alternative.
Courtesy of Kudoke
Reflecting on the KUDOKE 5, Stefan Kudoke emphasizes its role as a continuation of the brand's tradition of merging skilled mechanical watchmaking with creative, artistic design. He views the watch as representing a "conscious deceleration of time." In contrast to the fast-paced digital world often focused on fractions of seconds, the K5, with its slowly rotating 24-hour disk, invites the wearer to experience time as a continuous, natural flow. It serves as a reminder, Kudoke suggests, that time is a precious entity to be appreciated with mindfulness, rather than a torrent to be rushed through.
The KUDOKE 5 project reached a milestone with the first preview of a prototype during the AHCI "Masters of Horology" exhibition in Geneva in early April 2024. Following this initial showing, the brand anticipates that the first series production models will become available to customers in the fall of 2025. The KUDOKE 5 stands as a testament to the small manufacture's dedication to craft, creativity, and a unique perspective on horological expression.
Case: Stainless Steel with brushed flanks; Diameter 38 mm, Height 12 mm (visible height 7 mm); Water-resistant to 5 ATM; Stainless steel onion crown; Screwed base and bezel; Highly domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal.
Movement: In-house Kaliber 1-24H_L, hand winding; Diameter 30 mm, Height 4.3 mm plus disc mechanism; 18 jewels; Rate 28,800 vph (4 Hz); Power reserve 46 hours; Hand-finished with frosted wheel bridge and hand-engraved balance cock; Features ball bearing for 24-hour disc mechanism.
Dial: Frosted and silvered base; Rhodinized two-part chapter ring with 15-minute increments and diamond-cut edges; Large, domed, hand-engraved rotating 24-hour celestial disk electroplated in yellow gold, white rhodium, and black rhodium; Features Ursa Minor engraving; Golden triangle indicator on night side.
Strap: Available with Leather or Alcantara strap; Stainless steel pin buckle standard; Optional deployment clasp available.
Price: Upon Request
Reference Number: K5
Notes: Features a unique 24-hour time display via a large, rotating, hand-engraved celestial disk. The disk depicts day/night and the Ursa Minor constellation. Utilizes a ball bearing mechanism for reduced friction on the display disk. Highly domed sapphire crystal enhances the 3D effect.