Established in 1738 by Pierre Jaquet-Droz, the brand carved a niche for itself not just through meticulous craftsmanship, but also through the creation of automata – intricate mechanical marvels that brought figures to life. This spirit of blending artistry with complex mechanics continues to be a cornerstone of the brand, finding vivid expression in timepieces like the exceptional Skelet Sapphire Bushido.
Jaquet Droz has a rich history and carries the torch for rare handcrafts, with special techniques often incorporated into their one of a kind dials.
Jaquet Droz's relationship with Japanese art goes back a decade, and the Skelet Sapphire Bushido represents a powerful confluence of this appreciation and the brand's watchmaking expertise. This unique piece isn't just about telling time; it's a wearable sculpture, a celebration of Japanese culture through the iconic imagery of the Bushi warrior mask. The Bushidô mask, also known as the Samurai mask, holds a powerful place in Japanese culture, and it's far more than just a theatrical prop. These masks are deeply intertwined with the Samurai's code of honor, representing their values, power, and spiritual beliefs.
Courtesy of Jaquet Droz
The very core of the Skelet Sapphire Bushido lies in its breathtaking dial. The three-dimensional Bushidô mask is not merely a depiction, but a meticulously crafted micro-sculpture. The contours of the face – the imposing eyes, the defined nose, and the fierce mouth – are meticulously rendered in red gold. The gold's natural warmth contrasts starkly with the vibrant, almost otherworldly colors of the mask. These colors are achieved through a combination of hand-painting and the use of translucent enamel for the mask's distinctive horns. The face also showcases a first for Jaquet Droz: a setting of Murano glass beads, which accentuates the primary jade color and highlight the flashes of red, a color of the Samurai's strength.
The transparent nature of the case plays an important role in the overall visual impact. Instead of being just a protective enclosure, the sapphire case acts as a frame, offering an unobstructed view of the dial and movement. The effect is akin to wearing the mask itself directly on the wrist, the intricacies of the micro-sculpture visible from almost any angle. This all-sapphire construction, entirely Swiss Made in La Chaux-de-Fonds without the use of screws or inserts, is a testament to Jaquet Droz's technical capabilities. The 42mm diameter of the watch is bold, yet proportional. The dimensions provide ample space for the artistic elements to breathe without compromising wearability.
Courtesy of Jaquet Droz
Beyond the bold aesthetics, the Skelet Sapphire Bushido houses a sophisticated mechanical heart. The movement, visible through the transparent case back, is the Jaquet Droz calibre 2625SQ. This automatic movement is a showcase of skeletonization, where non-essential material is painstakingly removed to reveal the intricate inner workings. The tourbillon, positioned prominently at 12 o'clock, serves not only as a visual spectacle but also as a crucial element in enhancing accuracy by counteracting the effects of gravity. A tourbillon's practical function to provide a mechanical compensation for gravity's effect on the movement's accuracy is an impressive display.
Balancing the tourbillon at 6 o'clock is the barrel, the power source of the watch. This symmetrical layout adds to the visual harmony of the piece. The calibre 2625SQ offers a power reserve of 8 days. This extended power reserve means the watch can run for over a week without needing to be wound, a testament to the efficiency of the movement's design. The movement beats at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), a traditional rate that balances precision with durability. The automatic winding mechanism is facilitated by an openworked red gold oscillating weight, visible through the case back.
Courtesy of Jaquet Droz
The reverse side of the watch holds a hidden detail, one that speaks volumes about Jaquet Droz's commitment to artistry. The back of the Bushidô mask itself is hand-painted with sakura, or cherry blossoms. This delicate touch, applied to a surface that's typically polished but rarely decorated, adds another layer of artistic depth. It's a detail that only the wearer might fully appreciate, a secret garden on the wrist. This exemplifies Jaquet Droz's ethos of crafting exceptional quality, at every surface of the watch.
The watch is complemented by a vibrant turquoise rubber strap, a choice that might seem unconventional at first. However, the bold color echoes the vibrant hues of the mask and creates a striking contrast against the sapphire case and red gold elements. The rubber material also ensures a comfortable and secure fit on the wrist, aligning with the watch's overall modern and dynamic character. The strap blends in with the color pallet of the watch, and doesn't take anything away from the centerpiece.
Courtesy of Jaquet Droz
The creation of the Skelet Sapphire Bushido was a collaborative effort involving over half a dozen master craftspeople, their specialized skills ranging from engraving and painting to sculpting, enameling, and stone-setting. The culmination of their expertise required over 200 hours of painstaking work, a testament to the intricate detail and complexity involved in bringing this unique piece to life. Every individual involved in the creation has years and years of experience to perfect this one of a kind watch.
The use of 18k red gold for the mask and certain movement components adds a touch of warmth and luxury. Red gold, with its subtle reddish hue, complements the vibrant colors of the dial and creates a visually appealing contrast against the sapphire case. The choice of materials is carefully considered, enhancing both the aesthetic appeal and the overall durability of the watch. The watch uses only top tier materials to create an amazing product.
The 30-meter water resistance, while not intended for deep-sea diving, provides adequate protection against accidental splashes and everyday exposure to moisture. This level of water resistance ensures that the intricate mechanics and delicate artistry of the dial are shielded from the elements. The durability and design of the sapphire case is also a testament to the watch's durability.
Courtesy of Jaquet Droz
The Skelet Sapphire Bushido belongs to Jaquet Droz's exclusive collection of unique pieces. This means that only one example of this particular watch exists in the world. This exclusivity adds to its allure and underscores its status as a true collector's item. This adds the appeal of being a truly one of a kind piece.
The price of the Jaquet Droz Skelet Sapphire Bushido is CHF 427,000. This price point reflects not only the exceptional materials and craftsmanship involved, but also the watch's status as a unique work of art. It places the timepiece firmly within the realm of high-end horology, where artistry and technical innovation command a premium. The price is also so high because only the best artisans in the world can complete a watch with such detail and craftsmanship.
Case: 42mm diameter, 13.76mm thickness. 18k red gold. Sapphire case. 30m (3 bar) water resistance.
Movement: Jaquet Droz calibre 2625SQ. Automatic. 30 jewels. 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency. 8-day power reserve. Tourbillon.
Dial: Engraved and enamelled 18k red and white gold. Set with Murano glass beads. Hand-painted. Bushidô mask design.
Strap: Rubber
Price: CHF 427,000
Reference Number: J0135270341
Notes: Unique Piece 1 of 1. Over 200 hours of hand craftsmanship. Features a hand-painted sakura design on the back of the mask applique.