• Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 Mechanical Ingenuity and Artistic Craft
  • Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179

    Mechanical Ingenuity and Artistic Craft

    Hourstriker Staff
    Words by: Hourstriker Staff
    April 3, 2025
  • Jaeger-LeCoultre has once again demonstrated its capacity for combining complex watchmaking with artistic flair through the Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179. This timepiece represents a significant intersection of mechanical prowess and detailed craftsmanship, showcasing the skills housed within the Manufacture. It builds upon the legacy of the Hybris Artistica collection, which seeks to push the boundaries of both technical innovation and decorative arts within watchmaking.

    First unveiled in 2023, the concept behind the Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 was to fully utilize the unique swiveling case of the Reverso as a medium for high-level artistic expression and mechanical complexity. The initial release set the stage, and for 2025, Jaeger-LeCoultre revisited this model, rendering it in 18k white gold. This new iteration maintains the core principles of the original but offers a different aesthetic profile through the use of this cool-toned precious metal, strictly limited to just 10 pieces worldwide.

    Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre
    Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre


    The story of the Reverso itself is rooted in practicality and ingenuity. Born in 1931, its origins lie not in a boardroom but on the polo fields of India. British officers stationed there during the Raj era needed a watch robust enough to survive the impacts and stresses of a polo match. The challenge led to the creation of a watch with a case that could slide and flip over, protecting the dial and crystal behind a solid metal back. This clever integration of form and function was patented (CH159982) and became the Reverso's defining characteristic.

    While initially conceived for sports, the Reverso's distinctive rectangular shape and clean Art Deco lines quickly found favor beyond the polo grounds. It became a symbol of sophistication, adopted by discerning individuals from various backgrounds. Over the decades, numerous variations emerged for both men and women, yet the fundamental design—the reversible case and the stylistic nods to Art Deco—remained constant, securing its place as one of the most identifiable watch designs globally.

    A key aspect of the Reverso's development was the Manufacture's commitment to mechanical integrity. From the outset, Jaeger-LeCoultre designed movements specifically shaped to fit the rectangular case. This wasn't just an aesthetic choice; it was a technical solution to maximize the use of internal space, allowing for potentially more precise and robust calibers compared to fitting a standard round movement into a non-round case. In 1931, this concept of a shaped movement within a dedicated protective casing ring was a significant advancement in watchmaking.

    The technical potential of the Reverso platform truly began to be explored in the early 1990s when Jaeger-LeCoultre started incorporating high complications into the model. This brings us to the Calibre 179, the heart of the Hybris Artistica model. This movement features the fourth generation of the Gyrotourbillon, a multi-axis tourbillon developed by the Manufacture (patent CH694598A5). Creating such a complex regulating mechanism is challenging in any watch, but engineering it to fit within the specific constraints of a slim, rectangular Reverso case elevates the difficulty considerably.

    Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre
    Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre


    The Calibre 179 is not just about the tourbillon; it also incorporates the Duoface concept (patent EP0633514). This ingenious mechanism allows the watch to display different information on its two distinct faces. Typically, this means showing a second time zone on the reverse side, which is exactly the case here. The reverse dial features an hours and minutes display for a second time zone, complemented by a practical 24-hour indicator to distinguish day from night.

    The Gyrotourbillon itself is a captivating piece of micro-engineering. Designed to counteract the effects of gravity on the watch's regulating organs from multiple positions, it features two cages rotating on different axes at different speeds. The inner cage, crafted from ultra-light titanium to minimize inertia, completes a full 360-degree rotation every 16 seconds. The outer, peripheral carriage rotates once every 60 seconds. This constant, multi-dimensional motion is mesmerizing to watch.

    Comprising 123 individual components, the Gyrotourbillon is a complex assembly. Its peripheral carriage also serves a functional purpose, acting as a seconds indicator. A small pointer on the carriage tracks the seconds against a scale encircling the tourbillon aperture, visible on both the front and reverse dials. This integration ensures the complication adds practical value beyond its chronometric benefits and visual appeal.

    Delving deeper into the mechanism reveals further refinements aimed at precision. A greyed, semi-spherical balance spring beats at the core. This specific shape is not arbitrary; it's designed to work optimally within the spherical space at the heart of the Gyrotourbillon, enhancing isochronism while adding a unique visual element. Alongside it is the Gyrolab balance "wheel," which features a distinctive double-anchor shape rather than a traditional circular rim. This design was developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre to reduce air friction, contributing to greater timekeeping accuracy and mechanical efficiency.

    Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre
    Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre


    A significant feature contributing to the Gyrotourbillon's visual impact is its mounting. Instead of being secured by traditional bridges, the entire mechanism is supported by a ring of ball bearings. This creates a "flying" Gyrotourbillon effect, making it appear as though the intricate device is floating unsupported within the case, visible from both the front and back. This illusion is further enhanced by a polished blue lacquer disc placed on the watch's cradle, directly beneath the tourbillon, which reflects light and adds depth to the spectacle.

    The artistic execution of the Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 is central to its identity. The 2025 white gold version uses a specific color palette centered around Deep Blue lacquer. This lacquer provides a striking contrast against the cool tones of the 18k white gold case, bridges, and decorative plates. It's applied meticulously to elements on both the front and reverse dials, unifying the watch's two personalities.

    The front dial embraces the Reverso's Art Deco heritage. A delicate lattice pattern, formed by fine ribs of the white gold calibre plate metal, overlays the deep blue gradient lacquer background. Creating this involved precisely hollowing out the metal plate to form shallow depressions, which were then painstakingly filled with lacquer by hand. This process requires exceptional skill to achieve the correct color depth and richness. Only three artisans within the Manufacture possess the mastery for this specific lacquering technique, with one craftsman dedicated to each timepiece. The lacquered surface is then hand-polished until it is perfectly smooth and flush with the metal ribs.

    Flipping the case reveals the reverse side, which offers a more overtly technical aesthetic while maintaining the blue and white gold theme. Here, blue lacquer highlights the intricate, skeletonized hours-minutes ring and its supporting bridges. This contrasts beautifully with the warmer tones of some movement components visible through the openworking and the softer texture achieved through micro-blasting finishes on certain parts.

    The craftsmanship extends beyond lacquering. Bevelling, or chamfering—the process of hand-filing and polishing angled edges on movement components—is extensively applied. Just the cage of the Gyrotourbillon requires approximately 14 hours of dedicated bevelling work. On the reverse side, creating the signature shape and finish of a single prominent bridge demands another eight hours of this meticulous hand-finishing. This dedication to traditional handcraftsmanship is evident throughout the watch.

    Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre
    Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre


    Skeletonization is another key craft employed, particularly on the reverse side. The Calibre 179 is extensively openworked, reducing the dial and calibre plates to their essential structures. This not only reveals the inner workings of the movement but also creates an airy, almost ethereal look. The process involves modern techniques like laser cutting for initial shaping, followed by traditional hand-finishing, demonstrating a blend of innovation and heritage that Jaeger-LeCoultre often pursues.

    The case itself, measuring 51.1 mm lug-to-lug, 31 mm wide, and 13.63 mm thick, retains the iconic Reverso proportions and Art Deco details, including the signature horizontal gadroons above and below the dial area. The rectilinear geometry provides a structured frame for the complexity displayed on both dials. Even the inside surface of the cradle, usually hidden, is decorated with a deeply engraved sunray pattern emanating from the central blue lacquer disc beneath the tourbillon. Despite housing 382 components, including the multi-axis tourbillon, the watch maintains a profile designed for comfortable wear.

    Attention to detail continues to the strap and buckle. The watch is fitted with a blue alligator leather strap, complementing the lacquer work. The folding buckle is a technical feat in itself. Crafted from solid 18k white gold and weighing nearly 30 grams, it consists of 46 components. It features an innovative double-wheel mechanism allowing for micro-adjustments in 0.5mm increments, ensuring the wearer can achieve a precise and comfortable fit. This buckle blends functional sophistication with the substantial feel of precious metal.

    The manually-wound Calibre 179 operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) and offers a power reserve of approximately 40 hours when fully wound. Its functions include hours and minutes on both faces, the second time zone display with a 24-hour indicator on the reverse, and the visually prominent Gyrotourbillon which also provides the seconds indication. The movement itself measures 29.1 mm by 34.55 mm, with a thickness of 7.61mm, and contains 46 jewels to minimize friction. The watch offers a water resistance of 30 meters, suitable for everyday exposure but not swimming.

    Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre
    Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre


    The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 in white gold (Reference Q39434E1) is a testament to the integrated approach of the Manufacture, where some 180 different skills coexist under one roof. It represents a collaboration between engineers, watchmakers, and artisans, each contributing their expertise to create a unified whole that pushes technical limits while celebrating traditional crafts.

    As a limited edition of only 10 pieces worldwide, the Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 is an exclusive offering aimed at serious collectors and enthusiasts of high watchmaking and decorative arts. Pricing for such intricate and limited pieces is typically available upon request through Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques or authorized dealers. Its rarity, combined with the complexity of its movement and the level of hand-craftsmanship involved, places it firmly in the upper echelons of modern horology.

    Case: 18k white gold (750/1000), rectangular swivelling case, dimensions 51.1 x 31 mm x 13.63 mm thick, water resistance 30m.

    Movement: Manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 179, 40-hour power reserve, 21,600 VPH (3 Hz), 46 jewels, 382 components, 7.61mm thick, functions include hours/minutes (both sides), second time zone, 24-hour indicator, flying Gyrotourbillon.

    Dial: Duoface; Front dial features blue lacquer with white gold lattice pattern; Reverse dial is skeletonised with blue lacquer accents.

    Strap: Blue alligator leather strap with an 18k white gold folding buckle (46 components, ~30g, adjustable to 0.5mm).

    Price: Upon Request

    Reference Number: Q39434E1

    Notes: Limited edition of 10 pieces. Features the fourth evolution of the multi-axis flying Gyrotourbillon (123 components, inner cage 16s rotation, outer cage 60s rotation) and extensive hand-craftsmanship including lacquering, bevelling, and skeletonization.
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