IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Day and Night

For over 150 years, IWC Schaffhausen has been a leading manufacturer of luxury watches, renowned for its innovative engineering approach and commitment to quality. Founded in 1868 by American watchmaker and engineer Florentine Ariosto Jones, the company has built a reputation for creating professional instrument watches and functional complications that are both stylish and dependable. From its iconic Pilot’s Watches to the Portugieser collection, IWC timepieces are built with the user in mind, boasting robust construction and easy-to-use features.

A hallmark of IWC’s approach is its commitment to cutting-edge technology and materials. The company is a pioneer in the use of titanium and ceramics, and today leads the industry in crafting highly engineered watch cases from advanced materials such as colored ceramics, Ceratanium®, and titanium aluminide. IWC’s dedication to sustainability is another reason for its reputation as a leader. The company sources materials responsibly and works to minimize its environmental impact. They are committed to transparency throughout their supply chain and strive for continuous improvement in every aspect of their operations.



Within the IWC universe, the Portugieser collection stands out as a prime example of the brand’s philosophy of combining innovative engineering with timeless design. The Portugieser line traces its roots back to the 1930s when IWC designed a large wristwatch for two Portuguese businessmen. The timepiece was a bold departure from the smaller pocket watches that were popular at the time, and its clean, elegant lines and functionality quickly won over watch enthusiasts around the world.

Over the years, the Portugieser collection has grown to encompass a wide range of models, all staying true to the core principles of the line. These watches are designed to be worn and enjoyed, offering a perfect blend of style and functionality. They are ideal for the discerning watch collector who appreciates the finer details and the rich heritage that comes with an IWC Schaffhausen timepiece.

The newest addition to the Portugieser collection is the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night (Ref. IW545901). This exquisite timepiece is a testament to IWC’s watchmaking expertise and their dedication to creating exceptional complications. The watch features a polished and brushed 18-carat Armor Gold® case, a black alligator leather strap from Santoni, and a stunning Obsidian lacquered dial. The case measures 42.4 mm in diameter and only 10.8 mm in thickness.

The dial is dominated by a mesmerizing flying minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock, a technical marvel that is considered one of the most sophisticated complications in watchmaking. The tourbillon, which consists of 56 parts and weighs only 0.675 grams, rotates once every minute to counteract the effects of gravity on the watch’s accuracy.



Another standout feature of the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night is the innovative day and night display at 9 o’clock. This unique complication features a small globe that rotates on its axis once every 24 hours, with a dark side representing night and a bright side representing day. The day and night display is a captivating way to visualize the passage of time, and it is a testament to IWC’s commitment to creating not just functional timepieces, but also works of art.

The day and night display on the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night is particularly noteworthy because the concept originated from a former IWC watchmaker trainee named Loris Spitzer. This is a remarkable example of how IWC fosters a culture of curiosity and innovation, and how the company values the ideas and contributions of its employees at all levels.

At the heart of the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night lies the IWC-manufactured calibre 81925. This hand-wound movement is nothing short of an engineering marvel, a testament to IWC's expertise in fine watchmaking. The movement is elaborately finished with circular Geneva stripes and can be admired through the sapphire glass case back – it's like a miniature art gallery strapped to your wrist.



One of the most striking features of the calibre 81925 is the gold-plated base plate, which is partly skeletonized so you can see the barrel and other components clearly. This open design creates a mesmerizing play of light and shadow, making the watch even more visually captivating. Think of it like a high-performance sports car where they leave the engine exposed – they want you to see and appreciate the complexity that goes into building it.

The calibre 81925 boasts an impressive power reserve of 84 hours, meaning you can take your watch off for a few days without worrying about it winding down. This extended running time is an achievement in itself, especially within a watch that also houses complications like a tourbillon and a globe. What's more, the pallet lever and escape wheel are made of silicon and treated with Diamond Shell® technology. This unique coating reduces friction and improves energy flow within the movement, giving the watch superior precision and longevity.

IWC’s watchmakers understand that a high-complication watch shouldn’t be a hassle to use. That’s why the movement features an integrated tourbillon stop, allowing the mechanism to be brought to a complete stop and the watch set with down-to-the-second accuracy. It's these small but thoughtful details that make owning an IWC watch a real joy.



The day and night display might seem simple in principle, but this feature is a remarkable example of engineering ingenuity. Its integration into the calibre 81925 required exceptional design and construction. Because the movement is hand-wound and has no bulky oscillating mass (the big weight you see on the back of automatic watches), the display doesn't get obstructed by anything and is visible from both the front and back of the watch.

The globe itself is mesmerizing. Imagine the intricate miniature painting that goes into creating that contrast between the day and night sides, and then think about the fact that it rotates gracefully along with the movement of the watch hands. Each full rotation equals a 24-hour period and tells you if it's AM or PM, a poetic reminder of our planet's constant motion through space and time.

Let’s revisit a key material used in the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night: the 18-carat Armor Gold®. This isn’t the typical gold alloy you commonly find in watches. Thanks to its improved microstructure, Armor Gold® boasts significantly more hardness and wear-resistance than conventional 5N gold alloys, offering greater durability and scratch resistance. This means the beautiful case is going to retain its luster for much longer, retaining the "new watch" look for years to come.

Beyond the technical materials, we can’t ignore the artistry infused into this timepiece. The dial, with its high-polish finish, creates a captivating sense of depth. The gold-plated hands and intricate gold appliqués add subtle pops of color and texture that give the watch an undeniable richness. Every curve of the case and each angled facet seem perfectly considered.



The Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night is, frankly, a watch that's made for a very specific type of watch enthusiast. Someone who understands and appreciates not just the beauty of the final product but the years of thought, craftsmanship, and innovation behind it. This isn't just a status symbol, it's something you wear and engage with daily – a constant reminder of human ingenuity on your wrist.

True, the IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night belongs in the ultra-luxury price segment, a fact that will likely be the biggest barrier for most to owning one. But for the fortunate few able to bring it home, this watch is destined to become a treasured family heirloom. It’s a testament to IWC’s commitment to excellence and a testament to the enduring mystique of mechanical watchmaking.