For over 150 years,
IWC Schaffhausen has been a leading manufacturer of luxury watches, renowned for its innovative engineering and meticulous craftsmanship. Founded in 1868 by American watchmaker and engineer Florentine Ariosto Jones, the company has built a reputation for creating robust and functional timepieces that bridge the gap between cutting-edge technology and timeless design. A pioneer in the use of advanced materials like titanium and ceramics, IWC Schaffhausen is at the forefront of watchmaking, and the Portugieser collection is a prime example of this dedication to quality and advancement.
The Portugieser made its debut in 1939, a time when pocket watches were still the dominant mode of timekeeping. However, wristwatches were gaining popularity, and IWC Schaffhausen saw an opportunity to create a larger wristwatch that combined the precision of a marine chronometer with the functionality of a pocket watch. The resulting timepiece was the Portugieser, a large and elegant watch that featured a Pellaton automatic winding system and a distinctive design that has become its hallmark.
Courtesy of IWC
The Portugieser quickly gained a reputation for its robustness and functionality. Its large size and clear Arabic numerals made it easy to read, even in low-light conditions. The Pellaton automatic winding system ensured that the watch would keep running accurately, even if not worn for days at a time. These features made the Portugieser a favorite among sailors and businessmen who needed a reliable and easy-to-read timepiece.
Over the years, the Portugieser collection has grown to include a wide variety of models, but all share the same core design principles: large size, clear legibility, and robust construction. The collection has become a cornerstone of IWC Schaffhausen's brand identity, and it is a favorite among watch collectors around the world.
The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Dune is the latest addition to the Portugieser collection, and it represents the culmination of IWC Schaffhausen's long history of innovation and watchmaking expertise. The watch features a stunning 18-carat white gold case with a diameter of 44.4 millimeters and a height of 14.9 millimeters. The case is polished to a high shine and has a slim profile that makes it surprisingly comfortable to wear on the wrist.
Courtesy of IWC
One of the most striking features of the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Dune is its dial. The dial is made from brass and is intricately crafted in a complex process that involves applying 15 layers of transparent lacquer. The lacquer is then fine-ground and polished to a high gloss finish, which creates a beautiful depth of color and a unique shimmering effect. The hands and appliques on the dial are gold-plated, and they complement the overall elegance of the watch.
The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Dune is not just a beautiful timepiece; it is also a highly functional one. The watch features a perpetual calendar complication, which means that it can automatically keep track of the date, day, month, and year, including leap years. The perpetual calendar is one of the most complex watch complications, and it is a testament to IWC Schaffhausen's engineering prowess that it has been able to incorporate it into such a stylish and user-friendly watch.
The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Dune is also water-resistant to 5 bars, which means that it can withstand being submerged in up to 50 meters of water. This makes it a great choice for everyday wear, even for those who lead active lifestyles.
Courtesy of IWC
At the core of the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Dune lies the IWC-manufactured 52616 caliber movement. It's a testament to IWC's engineering mastery, assembled from an impressive 386 individual parts. This self-winding mechanical marvel boasts a 7-day power reserve – an entire week's worth of energy stored within its two mainspring barrels. That means you can confidently take this watch off your wrist for several days without the worry of it stopping.
The view through the see-through sapphire glass back offers a glimpse into the intricate dance of wheels, levers, and a substantial 18-carat gold rotor with its intricate engravings and cutouts. This rotor is part of the iconic Pellaton automatic winding system. A watchmaking innovation designed by IWC, it utilizes even the slightest movements of your wrist to wind the watch efficiently. Unlike traditional systems with gears that wear, the Pellaton system features components made of virtually wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic, enhancing the longevity of this remarkable timepiece.
The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Dune is no mere time-teller; it's a tireless calendar keeper. The perpetual calendar complication, a feat of miniature engineering, is fully mechanical and takes into account the different month lengths throughout the year. With its intricate network of gears and wheels, it flawlessly adds that extra day to February every four years in a leap year. Amazingly, it's programmed to run accurately until the year 2100. For those with a penchant for celestial details, the watch also incorporates the IWC-typical Double Moon™ display, offering a poetic view of the moon as seen from both the northern and southern hemispheres. To add another layer of complexity, the display is so accurate that it deviates from the moon's actual orbit by just one day every 577.7 years.
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The display of the perpetual calendar is beautifully arranged and intuitive. The date, day, month, and year in a four-digit display are positioned strategically on separate subdials. This layout allows for easy reading while maintaining a visually balanced aesthetic. To further enhance the watch's clarity, the moon phase display is seamlessly integrated into the month subdial. This meticulous attention to detail showcases both IWC's design genius and the wearer's ability to quickly grasp a wealth of calendar information.
The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Dune features a refined case construction optimized for comfort and wearability. Its redesigned casing ring sits narrower on the wrist, and the double box-glass sapphire crystals create a classic dome effect. The case itself has a polished finish, reflecting light and adding a touch of refined sparkle.
The intricate dial construction is the star of the show. Its captivating Dune color is achieved through a laborious, 60-step process. The brass base dial is coated with 15 meticulously applied layers of transparent lacquer, each patiently fine-ground and polished to a luxurious, high-gloss finish. The depth effect is breathtaking, almost as if the dial has its own shimmering, liquid dimension. This meticulous finishing isn't just about beauty; it amplifies the legibility of the gold-plated hands and appliques – ensuring quick and accurate time and calendar reading.
Courtesy of IWC
The watch is complemented by a high-quality black alligator leather strap from Santoni, adding a touch of understated refinement. The strap is secured with a comfortable and secure folding clasp in matching 18-carat white gold, completing the sense of understated luxury.
The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Dune is more than just a sophisticated watch; it's a continuation of a rich watchmaking heritage. IWC Schaffhausen's unwavering commitment to engineering excellence, innovative materials, and thoughtful design is evident in every facet of this timepiece. It's a watch designed for those who demand the best, a testament to IWC's continued leadership at the forefront of Haute Horology. It's destined for those who appreciate a blend of cutting-edge functionality with a sophisticated, yet understated, design language. It's a reminder that precision timekeeping and mechanical artistry can still coexist beautifully in the 21st century.