IWC Portugieser Chronograph Obsidian

For over 150 years, IWC Schaffhausen has been a beacon of excellence in Swiss watchmaking. The company, founded in 1868 by American watchmaker Florentine Ariosto Jones, has built a reputation for its fusion of innovative technology and meticulous craftsmanship. IWC timepieces are not just instruments for measuring time; they are testaments to human ingenuity and a commitment to quality. Within the illustrious portfolio of IWC collections, the Portugieser Chronograph stands out as a symbol of both sophistication and functionality.

The Portugieser story begins in the 1930s, when two Portuguese businessmen approached IWC with a specific request. They desired a timepiece that combined the precision of a marine chronometer with the elegance of a dress watch. IWC responded to this challenge by crafting the Portugieser, a large wristwatch featuring a distinctive, round case and a meticulously designed dial. The Portugieser quickly garnered a reputation for its legibility and robust construction, becoming a favorite among maritime professionals and watch enthusiasts alike.



In 1998, IWC Schaffhausen broadened the Portugieser’s appeal by introducing the Portugieser Chronograph. This timepiece retained the core design elements of the original Portugieser while incorporating the functionality of a chronograph complication. The chronograph function, which features a stopwatch function with a central seconds hand and additional subdials for elapsed minutes and hours, transformed the Portugieser into a versatile tool watch that could be used for a wider range of activities. A hallmark of the Portugieser Chronograph is the vertical arrangement of the subdials. This distinctive layout, with the minutes subdial at 12 o’clock and the running seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, enhances readability and has become a recognizable design feature of the collection.

The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Obsidian, the latest iteration of this iconic timepiece, embodies the essence of the Portugieser collection while incorporating several new design elements. The watch features a polished 18-carat 5N gold case, a black alligator leather strap from Santoni, and gold-plated hands and appliques. However, the most striking feature of the Portugieser Chronograph Obsidian is its dial. Crafted in a complex process involving 60 individual steps, the dial features a captivating Obsidian black finish. To achieve this depth of color, IWC applies 15 layers of transparent lacquer, which is then fine-ground and polished to a high gloss. The subdials are milled into both the brass blank and the lacquer layer, creating a three-dimensional effect that is further enhanced by a special printing process. Finally, the appliques are meticulously mounted on the dial by hand. The resulting dial is a mesmerizing display of light and shadow, with a richness that is both sophisticated and modern.



A watch is much more than its handsome exterior, and the Portugieser Chronograph Obsidian is no exception. At the heart of this timepiece lies the IWC-manufactured caliber 69355, a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement that IWC engineers built with robustness and reliability as guiding principles. The column-wheel design ensures precise control of the chronograph function and gives the pushers a satisfying, tactile feel.

Chronograph movements are inherently complex, but IWC has taken steps to maximize efficiency and durability. The seamless integration of the chronograph with the base movement and the careful coordination of the intricate components help maintain accurate timekeeping even under the strain of regular chronograph use. This is crucial since a chronograph is not a passive complication; it involves the activation of levers, wheels, and gears.



With a power reserve of 46 hours, the caliber 69355 ensures that your watch won't falter on you even if you take it off for a day or two. Winding the watch, either manually or through the automatic rotor visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, is smooth and satisfying – a delightful mix of modern precision and old-school watchmaking charm.

Let's return to that striking dial. Aside from its captivating Obsidian finish, the design choices in the Portugieser Chronograph Obsidian subtly maximize functionality. The classic vertical arrangement of the chronograph subdials makes reading elapsed time intuitive. Furthermore, a discreet flange around the dial features a quarter-second scale, allowing for precise measurements – a feature sure to be appreciated by serious chronograph enthusiasts.

The combination of polished gold hands and appliques against the deep black dial ensures excellent visibility. Whether you're glancing down in a dimly lit boardroom or timing laps at the racetrack, the time is always easy to discern. While primarily a dressy chronograph, the presence of a tachymeter scale around the circumference hints at the watch's sporty origins and adds a hint of dynamism to the design.



While the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Obsidian might seem like a delicate piece of jewelry, it's far from fragile. The 41mm case is made of durable 18-carat 5N gold and features a sapphire crystal that's both scratch-resistant and treated with an anti-reflective coating. With 3 bar (30 meters) of water resistance, you won't have to worry too much about the elements – unless you plan on taking this stunner for a deep dive.

Despite its dress watch pedigree, the Portugieser Chronograph has a sporty soul. The chronograph complication can be used for timing sprints, tracking your heart rate, or even measuring the speed of a moving object using the tachymeter scale. It's a versatile companion whether you're closing a business deal or enjoying a casual weekend outing.

The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Obsidian is a horological symphony, where each carefully considered detail contributes to the watch's overall appeal. From the intricate dial to the robust movement, and from the luxurious gold case to the supple Santoni alligator strap, the watch exudes a sense of confident refinement.



There's something undeniably satisfying about wearing a mechanical chronograph on your wrist. It's more than just a timekeeping device; it's a miniature marvel of engineering and a physical reminder of our relentless pursuit of measuring time. The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Obsidian elevates this concept by adding a layer of artistry and craftsmanship that speaks to both the head and the heart.

With its striking Obsidian dial, gold accents, and robust construction, this latest iteration of the Portugieser Chronograph is sure to become a coveted addition to any collection. Whether you're a seasoned watch aficionado or just beginning your journey into the world of fine watches, the allure of this timepiece is impossible to ignore.