IWC Schaffhausen stands as a beacon of Swiss precision and design ingenuity. Founded in 1868 by the American watchmaker Florentine Ariosto Jones,
IWC quickly made a name for itself by combining traditional Swiss craftsmanship with advanced American manufacturing techniques. This unique approach allowed IWC to create watches that were not only reliable and precise but also aesthetically captivating, a heritage that continues to this day.
Among IWC's illustrious lineup, the Portugieser collection holds a special place. Originally conceived in the late 1930s at the request of two Portuguese businessmen, Rodrigues and Teixeira, the Portugieser was designed to be a wristwatch with the precision of a marine chronometer. Its large size, clear dial, and exceptional accuracy set it apart, establishing a design language that has endured for over eight decades. Over the years, the Portugieser has evolved, embracing new materials, movements, and complications while staying true to its core identity. The collection is characterized by its clean lines, balanced dials, and a sense of understated sophistication that has made it a favorite among watch enthusiasts.
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The new IWC Portugieser Automatic Rose Gold Watches represent a stunning evolution of this iconic collection. Available in two distinct models—the Portugieser Automatic 42 (IW501706) and the Portugieser Automatic 40 (IW358404)—these timepieces showcase IWC's commitment to excellence in both form and function. Both models feature 18 ct 5N gold cases, a material that exudes warmth and luxury. The choice of rose gold is particularly noteworthy, as it offers a softer, more inviting hue compared to traditional yellow gold. This rich, warm tone is not just visually appealing but also carries a sense of historical significance. Rose gold, with its distinctive reddish tint, is an alloy that combines pure gold with copper and sometimes silver. The addition of copper not only imparts the unique color but also enhances the durability of the material, making it more resistant to wear and tear. This blend of beauty and strength is what makes rose gold an ideal choice for high-end timepieces, particularly those that are designed to be both functional and fashionable.
The cases of both watches have been meticulously reworked, featuring a thinner casing ring and box-glass sapphire crystals on both the front and back. This construction not only enhances the watches' refined appearance but also provides a clear view of the intricate movements within. The double box-glass sapphire crystals are a testament to IWC's dedication to quality. Sapphire crystal is renowned for its exceptional hardness and scratch resistance, second only to diamond in terms of durability. This ensures that the watch faces remain clear and unblemished, even after years of wear. The antireflective coating on both sides of the crystals further enhances visibility, reducing glare and allowing the dials to be read easily in any lighting conditions.
One of the most striking features of these watches is their dials. The silver-plated dials are masterpieces of craftsmanship, each one the result of a complex 60-step manufacturing process. This meticulous approach begins with a brass blank, into which the subdials are carefully milled. The dial is then coated with 15 layers of transparent lacquer, a process that creates an unusual optical depth. Each layer is fine-ground and polished to a high-gloss finish, resulting in a surface that seems to glow from within. A special printing process further enhances the three-dimensional effect, giving the dials a lifelike quality that is truly captivating. Finally, the appliques, including the Arabic numerals and other markers, are individually mounted by hand. This painstaking attention to detail ensures that each dial is a unique work of art, reflecting the skill and dedication of IWC's craftsmen.
Turning to the Portugieser Automatic 42, this model stands out with its slightly larger 42.4 mm case diameter, the Automatic 42 exudes a commanding presence on the wrist. Its height of 12.9 mm adds to its substantial feel, making it a watch that is both seen and felt. The larger size is not just about aesthetics; it also allows for a more expansive dial layout, enhancing readability and showcasing the watch's intricate details.
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The Portugieser Automatic 42 is powered by the IWC-manufactured 52011 caliber, a movement that is as impressive as it is reliable. This automatic winding movement features the renowned Pellaton winding system, which is reinforced with virtually wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic components. The use of ceramic parts is a significant innovation, as it greatly reduces wear and tear on the winding mechanism, ensuring long-term reliability. The movement builds up an impressive power reserve of seven days (168 hours) in two barrels, meaning the watch can run for a full week without needing to be wound. This extended power reserve is a practical feature for those who may not wear their watch every day, providing convenience and peace of mind.
The 52011 caliber is beautifully finished with circular Geneva stripes, a traditional decorative technique that adds a touch of elegance to the movement. The rotor, which winds the mainspring as the watch moves, features an 18-carat gold medallion, a subtle yet luxurious detail that highlights IWC's commitment to excellence. With 249 components and 31 jewels, the movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), ensuring accurate timekeeping. The inclusion of a power reserve display on the dial is another practical feature, allowing the wearer to easily monitor the remaining power.
The smaller Portugieser Automatic 40, with its 40.4 mm case diameter and 12.4 mm height, offers a more understated elegance. This model is powered by the IWC-manufactured 82200 caliber, another exceptional movement that reflects IWC's engineering prowess. Like the 52011 caliber, the 82200 features the Pellaton automatic winding system with zirconium oxide ceramic parts, ensuring durability and efficiency. However, the 82200 caliber has a slightly shorter power reserve of 60 hours, which is still more than sufficient for daily use.
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The 82200 caliber is equally well-crafted, with 192 components and 31 jewels. It also operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, ensuring precise timekeeping. The movement is finished with Côtes de Genève, a decorative pattern that adds a touch of sophistication. Both watches feature small hacking seconds, a useful function that allows the wearer to stop the seconds hand when setting the time, ensuring greater accuracy.
The Portugieser Automatic 40 is fitted with a brown alligator leather strap from Santoni with an 18-carat 5N gold pin buckle. The choice of a pin buckle is a nod to traditional watchmaking, offering a classic and secure way to fasten the watch.
Both watches are water-resistant up to 5.0 bar, which means they can withstand splashes and brief immersion in water. While not designed for deep-sea diving, this level of water resistance is more than adequate for everyday wear, providing protection against accidental exposure to water. The see-through sapphire glass back of both watches allows a clear view of the intricate movements, further enhancing their appeal to watch enthusiasts who appreciate the mechanical beauty of these timepieces.
The dials of these watches are where the true artistry of IWC shines through. The silver-plated surface provides a clean, classic backdrop for the applied Arabic numerals and slender hands. The subdial at 9 o'clock displays the small seconds, while the subdial at 3 o'clock on the Automatic 42 model indicates the power reserve. This balanced layout is both functional and aesthetically pleasing, a hallmark of the Portugieser collection.
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The applied Arabic numerals and hands are also made from 18 ct 5N gold, perfectly matching the case material. The hands are slender and elegant, with a subtle leaf shape that adds a touch of vintage charm. The combination of the rose gold elements against the silver-plated dial creates a warm, harmonious look that is both sophisticated and inviting.
The choice of a dark brown alligator leather strap by Santoni for both models is another nod to quality and luxury. Santoni, an Italian leather goods manufacturer, is renowned for its craftsmanship and attention to detail. The alligator leather is carefully selected and treated to ensure a supple, comfortable feel on the wrist. The rich brown color of the strap complements the rose gold case, creating a cohesive and stylish look.
The Portugieser Automatic 42 features a strap width of 22.0 mm, while the Automatic 40 has a slightly narrower strap width of 20.0 mm. This difference in width corresponds to the case sizes, ensuring that each watch has a balanced and proportionate appearance. The straps are secured with either a folding clasp (Automatic 42) or a pin buckle (Automatic 40), both made from 18-carat 5N gold. These clasps not only provide a secure fit but also add an extra touch of luxury to the overall design.
Visually, the watches are a treat for the eyes. The combination of the rose gold case, silver-plated dial, and brown alligator strap creates a warm, inviting aesthetic that is both classic and contemporary. The watches have a substantial presence on the wrist, but they are not overly bulky or ostentatious. They strike a perfect balance between elegance and functionality, making them suitable for both formal occasions and everyday wear.
Courtesy of IWC
From a collector's perspective, these watches are highly desirable. They represent the best of IWC's craftsmanship and design philosophy, combining traditional techniques with modern innovations. The intricate dials, meticulously crafted movements, and luxurious materials all contribute to their appeal. These are not just time-telling devices; they are works of art that can be appreciated on multiple levels.
The IWC Portugieser Automatic Rose Gold Watches are available for purchase through authorized IWC retailers and boutiques. The Portugieser Automatic 42 (IW501706) is priced at $25,400, while the Portugieser Automatic 40 (IW358404) is priced at $17,600. These prices reflect the high level of craftsmanship, quality materials, and technical sophistication that define these timepieces.
Case: Both models boast 18 ct 5N gold cases, the Automatic 42 (IW501706) with a 42.4 mm diameter and 12.9 mm height, and the Automatic 40 (IW358404) with a 40.4 mm diameter and 12.4 mm height. Each features a see-through sapphire glass back, a thinner casing ring, box-glass sapphire crystals on the front and back with antireflective coating on both sides, and a water resistance of 5.0 bar.
Movement: The Automatic 42 houses the IWC-manufactured 52011 caliber with a 7-day power reserve, 31 jewels, and 249 components, featuring a rotor with an 18-carat gold medallion and Pellaton automatic winding with ceramic components. The Automatic 40 utilizes the IWC-manufactured 82200 caliber with a 60-hour power reserve, 31 jewels, and 192 components, also featuring Pellaton automatic winding with ceramic parts and decorated with Côtes de Genève. Both movements beat at 28,800 VPH (4 Hz).
Dial: Both models sport silver-plated dials created through a 60-step process, including the application of 15 layers of transparent lacquer, fine-ground and polished to a high-gloss finish. The subdials are milled into both the brass blank and the lacquer layer, and a special printing process enhances the three-dimensional effect. The appliques are individually hand-mounted.
Strap: Both watches come with a dark brown alligator leather strap by Santoni. The Automatic 42 has a strap width of 22.0 mm and an 18-carat 5N gold folding clasp, while the Automatic 40 has a 20.0 mm strap and an 18-carat 5N gold pin buckle.
Price: The Portugieser Automatic 42 (IW501706) is priced at $25,400, and the Portugieser Automatic 40 (IW358404) is priced at $17,600.
Reference Number: Portugieser Automatic 42: IW501706. Portugieser Automatic 40: IW358404.
Notes: The intricate dial manufacturing process, involving 60 individual steps and 15 layers of lacquer, results in a unique optical depth and a captivating three-dimensional effect, which truly sets these watches apart. The use of virtually wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic components in the Pellaton winding system underscores IWC's commitment to long-lasting durability and mechanical excellence.