IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 Horizon Blue

or over 150 years, IWC Schaffhausen has been a leading manufacturer of luxury watches renowned for its engineering approach to watchmaking. Founded in 1868 by American watchmaker and engineer Florentine Ariosto Jones, the company has forged a reputation for its professional instrument watches and functional complications, particularly chronographs and calendars. Throughout its history, IWC has embraced cutting-edge technology and processes while maintaining a commitment to human craftsmanship and creativity. This unique blend is evident in their timepieces, which are crafted from high-quality materials and built to last for generations.

One of IWC Schaffhausen's most iconic collections is the Portugieser. The Portugieser's origins can be traced back to the late 1930s, when the company used a high-precision pocket watch movement to create a distinctively large wristwatch with chronometer precision. The first Portugieser was introduced in 1939, and it was designed for two Portuguese businessmen who requested a wristwatch with the accuracy of a marine chronometer. The Portugieser quickly gained popularity for its large size, elegant design, and exceptional functionality.



In 2000, IWC Schaffhausen introduced the Portugieser Automatic 42, a modern update to the classic Portugieser design. The Portugieser Automatic 42 features a clean and open dial with applied Arabic numerals, feuille-type hands, and a characteristic minute scale reminiscent of railway tracks. These elements ensure perfect legibility, which is a hallmark of IWC watches.

The new Portugieser Automatic 42 builds on this legacy with a carefully reworked case construction that features a slender side profile. This makes the watch more visually light and elegant than previous models. The Portugieser Automatic 42 also features a new double box-glass sapphire crystal that offers a stunning view of the intricate dial and the IWC-manufactured movement inside.



The dial of the Portugieser Automatic 42 is a work of art in itself. It is manufactured in a complex process comprising 60 individual steps. The rich blue color, christened “Horizon Blue” by IWC, is created by applying 15 layers of transparent lacquer, which is fine-ground and then polished to a high gloss finish. The lacquer creates an unusual optical depth that gives the dial a three-dimensional effect. The subdials are milled into both the brass base and the lacquer layer, and the printing is done in a special procedure that further enhances the three-dimensionality of the dial. Finally, the applied indexes are mounted by hand to ensure the utmost precision and quality.

IWC Schaffhausen offers the Portugieser Automatic 42 in a variety of configurations, including a model with an 18-carat white gold case, a Horizon Blue dial, and rhodium-plated hands and appliques. This version of the watch comes on a blue Santoni calfskin strap with an 18-carat white gold folding clasp.

Let's start with the case. The 18-carat white gold case measures 42.4 millimeters in diameter and 12.9 millimeters in height. The polished finish of the white gold adds to the watch's quiet refinement while also creating a canvas for light to play across its contours. The reworked casing profile boasts a thinner casing ring, adding to the sense of lightness and refined presence on the wrist.



However, don't let its streamlined profile fool you. The Portugieser Automatic 42 is built as solidly as any IWC timepiece. The see-through sapphire glass on the back reveals the IWC-manufactured 52011 caliber, a robust and sophisticated automatic movement that embodies IWC's dedication to high-quality watchmaking. This movement features a Pellaton automatic winding system, which is a highly efficient winding mechanism known for its durability. Additionally, the Pellaton winding system is reinforced with virtually wear-free ceramic components, ensuring reliability over time.

The movement boasts a 168-hour power reserve (that's a full 7 days!), conveniently indicated by the subdial at 3 o'clock. This means you could take this watch off Friday night and still find it ticking away reliably when you pick it up on Monday morning. The power reserve display is subtly integrated into the perfectly balanced dial – a detail watch enthusiasts will appreciate.

Speaking of subtlety, a closer look at the dial reveals its painstaking creation. IWC describes a 60-step process to achieve that mesmerizing Horizon Blue hue, achieved through a multi-layer application of transparent lacquer finished with a high-gloss polish. It's this type of attention to detail that separates watches like the Portugieser from the pack. It's not just about the color but the depth it conveys. It catches the light in a way that makes it feel like there's a tiny pool of the deepest blue sky right there on your wrist.



The rhodium-plated hands and appliques stand out in stark yet harmonious contrast to the blue dial, ensuring excellent legibility even at a glance. The subdial at 9 o'clock displays the small seconds, adding a touch of visual movement to the dial. It's a small detail that feels just right, reminding you that you're not just wearing a piece of jewelry, but a functional precision instrument.

The real magic of a watch, however, is experienced when you put it on. The IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 Horizon Blue wears exceptionally comfortably despite its substantial size. The curved lugs ensure a snug fit on the wrist, and the redesigned case profile sits lower, reducing the overall perceived height of the watch. The blue Santoni calfskin strap adds to the sense of refined wearability, feeling luxurious on the skin.

A dress watch with a difference, the Portugieser Automatic 42 isn't trying to be flashy. It's like the quiet star athlete who dominates through skill and precision, not bravado. That's the kind of confidence it projects on the wrist – refined, understated, and backed by serious engineering prowess.

IWC Schaffhausen has masterfully updated a pillar of their collection with the new Portugieser Automatic 42. It retains the DNA of the iconic original with its balanced dial layout and clean lines, yet elevates the design with thoughtful refinements – the slimmer profile, the multi-layered dial, and the re-engineered movement.



The Horizon Blue version, specifically, brings something unique to the table. The color choice is bold without being brash, giving this Portugieser a personality that feels both contemporary and lasting. It's the kind of watch you'd be equally happy passing down to a future generation or wearing on that big presentation day.

The IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 Horizon Blue might just be the perfect blend of respect for tradition and a keen eye on the future of luxury watches. It speaks to those who appreciate not only what a watch looks like, but what it's made of – the materials, the legacy, and the quiet confidence it conveys.