HAUTLENCE RETROVISION 85

HAUTLENCE has carved a niche for itself by consistently defying conventional watchmaking norms, and its latest creation, the RETROVISION ’85, stands as a potent example of this philosophy. Unveiled at Watches & Wonders, this piece is conceived as a direct tribute to the boundless imagination characterizing the 1980s, specifically drawing inspiration from a transformable robot toy produced by a well-known Japanese manufacturer during that era. It’s a mechanical ode to nostalgia, designed to resonate with individuals who recall the fascination of owning such a futuristic gadget on their wrist as children.



The 1980s represented a unique cultural melting pot. It was a time defined by the colorful animation of Saturday morning cartoons, where heroic robots were commonplace figures battling cosmic threats. Concurrently, the nascent world of home video gaming was capturing imaginations, substituting graphical realism with boundless interactive potential. Skateboarding culture was also solidifying its identity, bringing its own aesthetics and attitudes into the mainstream. The RETROVISION ’85 seeks to encapsulate this specific zeitgeist – an atmosphere charged with a sense of freedom, technological optimism, and playful futurism.



This watch is engineered to connect with those formative experiences. It taps into the memory of a specific type of watch that was popular among children in the 80s – one that did more than tell time. It transformed, becoming a miniature robot action figure, fueling countless hours of imaginative play. That simple toy became symbolic of the era's can-do spirit and fascination with robotics and transformation. Hautlence aims to recapture that specific feeling, translating it into the language of modern high-end watchmaking.



The genesis of HAUTLENCE dates back to 2004. The name itself is an anagram of Neuchâtel, the Swiss canton celebrated as a cradle of watchmaking artistry, signaling the brand’s respect for tradition even as it sought to innovate. Founded by individuals like Guillaume Tetu and Renaud de Retz, who brought experience from established industry names, HAUTLENCE was established with the explicit goal of injecting new energy into fine watchmaking. Their initial creations immediately garnered attention from collectors for their avant-garde approach and unconventional displays of time.



From the outset, HAUTLENCE distinguished itself with bold designs and unique mechanical solutions. Early collections, like the HL series introduced in 2005, featured distinctive rectangular or TV-shaped cases – a form factor that would become a brand signature – and complex movements showcasing functions like retrograde minutes and jumping hours. These initial offerings established HAUTLENCE's reputation for mechanical creativity and a willingness to depart from established aesthetic codes, prioritizing visible mechanics and novel ways to represent the passage of time.



Like many independent watchmakers, HAUTLENCE faced headwinds, particularly during the 2008 financial crisis. However, the brand persevered. A pivotal moment arrived in 2012 when it was acquired by MELB Holding, an independent, family-run watchmaking group spearheaded by Georges-Henri Meylan, the former CEO of Audemars Piguet. This acquisition provided crucial stability and resources, allowing HAUTLENCE to maintain its independent spirit while benefiting from synergies within the group, which also owns H. Moser & Cie. and the escapement specialist Precision Engineering AG. This partnership solidified HAUTLENCE's ability to continue developing unique, in-house capabilities.



Supported by MELB Holding, HAUTLENCE continued to refine its identity, often drawing inspiration from art, architecture, and even unexpected sources like arcade games, as seen in their Playground collection. This collection featured whimsical pieces, like a functional pinball game or a labyrinth puzzle integrated into a watch case, sometimes deliberately omitting the time-telling function altogether to emphasize mechanical art and interaction purely for enjoyment. This underlined the brand's belief that high horology could be interactive and fun, challenging the often-staid conventions of the luxury watch world.



After a brief pause in activities during 2020 and 2021, HAUTLENCE embarked on a strategic relaunch in 2022. Under new leadership, the brand embraced a refreshed direction described as more contemporary and sporty, while still building upon its foundational codes. This new chapter involved refining its distribution network to be more exclusive and aligning its visual identity with this updated positioning. With an annual production intentionally kept low – around 200 pieces – HAUTLENCE maintains its exclusivity, focusing on limited series like the Linear and Vagabonde lines, which continue to explore innovative time displays.



The RETROVISION ’85 fits perfectly within this revitalized framework. The concept reportedly originated from a spark of memory shared between the Meylan brothers, owners of MELB Holding, who wished to recapture the magic of that 80s transforming toy through the sophisticated lens of contemporary watchmaking. It embodies the tagline "Nostalgia, reengineered," taking a beloved concept from the past and executing it with the technical prowess and materials of modern haute horlogerie.



Visually, the RETROVISION ’85 presents a striking, angular form. Its structure is blocky and mechanical, strongly evoking its robotic inspiration. The multi-component case construction features distinct planes and facets, finished in a matte metallic grey that contrasts with polished or colored accents. On the wrist, it has a commanding presence due to its size and unconventional shape. When transformed into its robot mode, it stands upright, with articulated elements forming distinct "legs" and "shoulders," the watch face serving as the robot's torso.



The case, bezel, and crown are crafted from Grade 5 titanium using additive manufacturing, more commonly known as 3D printing. This modern technique allows for complex shapes and internal structures that might be difficult or impossible to achieve through traditional milling. Further enhancing its retro-tech aesthetic is the partial copper-colored PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) coating applied to specific facets of the case. This touch of color adds warmth and visual interest, breaking up the monochromatic titanium and contributing to the 80s-inspired look. The crown, positioned unconventionally, features an engraved HAUTLENCE logo.



A key feature of the RETROVISION ’85 is its dual functionality, enabled by clever engineering. As a wristwatch, it measures a substantial 64.0 mm by 60.0 mm, with a thickness of 11.8 mm – dimensions that ensure it makes a statement. However, integrated articulation points allow the case components and strap attachments to reconfigure. When deployed, these elements form a stable base, transforming the timepiece into a freestanding desk clock resembling a miniature robot, measuring 70.0 mm wide, 96.0 mm tall, and 43.0 mm deep.



Protecting the intricate dial is a large, rectangular sapphire crystal. Described as extra-hard and featuring bevelled edges, it offers excellent scratch resistance and clarity. An anti-reflective treatment is applied to minimize glare and ensure optimal legibility of the complex time display beneath. The case back also features a sapphire crystal, potentially offering a glimpse of the movement, though the primary mechanical theatre is undoubtedly the dial side. Practicality is considered with a water resistance rating of 5 ATM (approximately 50 meters), offering protection against splashes and brief immersion.



The dial itself is a multi-layered construction, creating a sense of depth and complexity. The foundation is a base dial made from titanium with a frosted finish, providing a textured, non-reflective background. Above this sits an intermediate dial crafted from rhodium-plated brass, treated with blue and purple PVD coatings. This colorful element likely frames the time display, drawing the eye towards the watch's functional center and adding another layer of retro-futuristic color reminiscent of 80s design palettes.



Time is indicated via HAUTLENCE's signature wandering hours system, implemented using the Calibre D31 mechanism. Instead of traditional hands, the display features a large, central disc made from sapphire crystal. This disc indicates the minutes, featuring applied numerals and rings made from Globolight®, a ceramic composite material containing Super-LumiNova for low-light visibility. Orbiting this central minute disc are three smaller satellite discs, each bearing four-hour numerals. As time progresses, the entire assembly rotates, and the satellite disc showing the current hour aligns with the minute track, while the disc itself rotates to present the correct hour numeral.



Powering this intricate dance is the Calibre D31, a self-winding mechanical movement developed by HAUTLENCE and previously utilized in models like the Vagabonde Tourbillon. This movement is the engine behind the watch's signature time display, managing the complex choreography of the rotating hour satellites and the central minute disc. Its automatic winding system ensures the watch remains powered through the wearer's motion, contributing to its practicality despite its complexity.



The D31 movement operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), a standard rate for many modern high-end movements balancing accuracy and longevity. It boasts a robust minimum power reserve of 72 hours, meaning the watch can be set down for three full days and still keep time without needing to be rewound. Composed of 217 individual components and incorporating 39 jewels to minimize friction at critical points, the calibre showcases the intricate engineering required for its unconventional display and tourbillon feature.



Adding another layer of mechanical sophistication is the inclusion of a flying tourbillon, visible on the dial side. This rotating cage houses the escapement and balance wheel assembly, completing one revolution typically every 60 seconds. The purpose of the tourbillon is historically rooted in counteracting the effects of gravity on the timekeeping components of a pocket watch; in a modern wristwatch, it primarily serves as a captivating demonstration of watchmaking skill. The D31 features a tourbillon equipped with a double hairspring, an advanced configuration aimed at improving timekeeping stability and precision.



Completing the watch is a practical and comfortable black rubber strap. This material choice complements the modern, technical aesthetic of the case and offers durability suitable for daily wear. The strap attaches via a quick-release system, facilitating easy removal for transformation into the table clock mode or for swapping straps. It secures to the wrist with a conventional steel pin buckle, providing a reliable closure.



Fine details extend to the engravings found on the strap's support structure or possibly the case back. These include the HAUTLENCE name, the model designation "Retrovision ‘85," the indication "SUISSE" denoting its Swiss origin, the 5 ATM water resistance rating, and significantly, the Möbius strip logo – a symbol frequently used by HAUTLENCE representing infinity and the continuous passage of time, subtly reinforcing the brand’s identity.



The RETROVISION ’85 is more than just a complex mechanism; it's a statement piece that embodies HAUTLENCE's core ideology. It reaffirms the brand's commitment, shared with its Playground collection, to the idea that high-end watchmaking can and should embrace playfulness and fun without compromising on technical execution or material quality. It directly challenges conventional design expectations, celebrating imagination and connecting with collectors on an emotional level through shared cultural memories.



Its appeal is multi-faceted. It directly targets individuals who grew up during the 80s and have a fondness for the era's distinctive pop culture, particularly its fascination with robots and futuristic technology. Simultaneously, it speaks to seasoned watch collectors who appreciate mechanical ingenuity, unique time displays, and the artistry involved in creating such an unconventional piece. It serves as a bridge between past inspirations and contemporary mechanical art.



Crucially, the HAUTLENCE RETROVISION ’85 is defined by its extreme exclusivity. Only eight pieces will be produced for the entire global market. This scarcity elevates it beyond a mere watch, positioning it as a rare collector's item for a very select clientele. Owning one means belonging to a tiny circle who possess this specific blend of nostalgia, technology, and watchmaking art.



Given its technical complexity, use of advanced materials like 3D-printed titanium, tourbillon movement, and extremely limited production run of just eight pieces, the HAUTLENCE RETROVISION ’85 occupies a significant price point within the high-horology market. Prospective buyers would need to inquire directly with HAUTLENCE or its authorized exclusive retailers regarding pricing and availability for one of the coveted eight examples.



Case: Titanium case, bezel, and crown created using 3D printing with partial copper-coloured PVD coating. Bevelled extra-hard rectangular sapphire crystal with antireflective treatment and sapphire crystal back. Dimensions (wristwatch): 64.0 x 60.0 x 11.8 mm. Dimensions (table clock): 70.0 x 96.0 x 43.0 mm. Water resistance: 5 ATM.

Movement: D31 self-winding mechanical movement. Features wandering hours and minutes, tourbillon with double hairspring. Minimum 72-hour power reserve. Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz). Composed of 217 components and 39 jewels.

Dial: Frosted titanium base dial. Rhodium-plated brass intermediate dial with blue and purple PVD coating. Sapphire minute disc with applied numerals and Globolight® rings.

Strap: Black rubber strap with a steel pin buckle. Features a quick attachment system. Support engraved with Möbius, "HAUTLENCE", "Retrovision ‘85", "SUISSE", and "5 ATM".

Reference Number: ED31-TI00

Notes: Highly limited edition of only 8 pieces. Design inspired by iconic 1980s transformable robot toys. Can be worn as a wristwatch or displayed as a miniature robot table clock.