Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38 MM Gem-Set

Girard-Perregaux introduces a sparkling dimension to its celebrated Laureato collection with the launch of two new 38mm models. These timepieces represent a confluence of the manufacture's established watchmaking expertise and the intricate skills associated with Métiers d’Art, specifically focusing on the craft of gem-setting. The iconic octagonal bezel of the Laureato serves as the canvas for these new interpretations, one gleaming with the fire of baguette-cut diamonds and the other presenting a captivating gradient of blue sapphires and diamonds.



The history of Girard-Perregaux is deeply woven into the fabric of Swiss watchmaking. Founded in 1791 and rooted in La Chaux-de-Fonds, within the Swiss Jura mountains, the brand stands as one of the oldest fine watchmaking manufactures still in operation. Its long-standing independence, maintained for over two centuries, has allowed it to cultivate and preserve exceptional horological skills in-house. This commitment to self-sufficiency extends across all aspects of production, from movement design to final assembly, ensuring a continuity of craftsmanship passed down through generations.



Girard-Perregaux's legacy is marked by significant contributions to horology. The company is credited with pioneering the very concept of a watch manufacture, consolidating various watchmaking crafts under one roof early in its history. Design innovation is also central to its identity, perhaps most famously embodied by the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, a signature design patented in 1884 that transformed functional movement architecture into a defining aesthetic element. With over 80 patents and a catalogue boasting more than 30 distinct movements, the manufacture has consistently demonstrated technical and artistic prowess.



The Laureato itself emerged during a pivotal era in watch design, the 1970s. While several prestigious watch houses introduced stainless steel sports watches with integrated bracelets during this period, Girard-Perregaux distinguished itself by developing the Laureato entirely in-house. This included not only the distinctive case and bracelet design but also the movement within. This holistic approach afforded the manufacture complete creative control, resulting in a watch conceived without compromise from its inception.



The Laureato's design language is immediately recognizable. It features a unique interplay of geometric shapes: an octagonal bezel positioned atop a circular plinth, which in turn rests on a gently curved tonneau-shaped case. This arrangement, combined with the seamlessly integrated bracelet, creates a distinctive silhouette. The case surfaces alternate between polished and satin-finished textures, enhancing the way light interacts with the watch and contributing to its visual depth. Over the decades, the Laureato has evolved, appearing in various materials, dial colors, and incorporating different complications, yet always retaining its core design identity.



The introduction of these two new 38mm gem-set models marks a further evolution, explicitly bringing the world of high jewelry craft into the Laureato family. Girard-Perregaux presents these pieces as enhancing the inherent geometry of the Laureato's bezel, using precious stones to accentuate its form and add a layer of brilliance. They represent a fusion of the model's established sporty character with the refinement of expert gem-setting.



The first of the duo, reference 81005-58S3463-1CM, makes a statement with its bezel lavishly set with 32 custom-made baguette-cut diamonds, totaling approximately 3 carats. Setting baguette diamonds, known for their elongated rectangular facets, demands exceptional precision from the gem-setter. Girard-Perregaux developed a custom white gold bezel specifically for this task. Each diamond is meticulously placed within a precisely engineered channel setting. This channel is designed to accommodate the minute variations inherent in natural stones, ensuring they align perfectly side-by-side.



The intricate setting technique on the baguette diamond model involves more than just alignment. The height of the bezel itself has been carefully calibrated to optimize the way light enters and reflects from the diamonds, maximizing their brilliance. Furthermore, the channel within the Laureato's signature octagonal bezel has a unique shape; it subtly widens towards each of the eight corners. This clever design accommodates the varying sizes of the baguette diamonds needed to seamlessly follow the bezel's contours, ensuring a fluid transition around the octagon. Secured using an invisible setting technique, the diamonds appear to float, their remarkable proportions and light play taking center stage.



Complementing the diamond-set bezel, the dial of this reference is crafted from white gold and features the intricate Clous de Paris guilloché pattern, a hallmark of the Laureato line. Unlike many other Laureato models, this version omits the customary dial text usually found between the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, creating a cleaner, more minimalist aesthetic that allows the texture and material to speak for themselves. At first glance, the watch presents a monochromatic look, but closer inspection reveals subtle tonal variations between the bezel, dial, and case, contributing to its sophisticated appearance. The sense of luxury is further reinforced by the applied GP logo and hour indexes, also fashioned from white gold and filled with luminescent material for visibility.



Visually, the 81005-58S3463-1CM presents a striking balance between the familiar robust architecture of the Laureato and the dazzling effect of the diamonds. The 38mm diameter and 10mm thickness provide contemporary proportions suitable for a wide range of wearers. The stainless steel case retains the characteristic interplay of polished and satin-finished surfaces, a finish that extends onto the integrated steel bracelet. This contrast catches the light beautifully, a quality that is significantly amplified by the continuous band of baguette diamonds encircling the dial. The anti-reflective sapphire crystal protects the intricate dial, while a second sapphire crystal on the case-back reveals the movement within. Water resistance is rated at a practical 100 meters.



The second new model, reference 81005-11S3464-1CM, offers a different take on gem-setting, incorporating color and a gradient effect. This version caters to those seeking a touch of vibrancy alongside the sparkle of diamonds. Its stainless steel bezel is adorned with a combination of 10 brilliant-cut diamonds (approximately 0.177 carats) and 46 brilliant-cut blue sapphires (approximately 0.798 carats), for a total gem weight of about 0.975 carats.



The arrangement of the gems on the blue gradient model is particularly noteworthy. The brilliant-cut diamonds are clustered adjacent to the 6 o'clock position, providing a bright focal point. Moving upwards around the bezel towards 12 o'clock, the blue sapphires transition in color, starting with lighter shades and gradually deepening to a rich, dark blue. This careful color gradation creates a dynamic visual effect, drawing the eye around the octagonal form.



Complementing the color gradient is a subtle variation in the size of the stones. The largest brilliant-cut sapphires are strategically placed at each of the eight corners of the bezel, further emphasizing the Laureato's signature geometry. The meticulous selection and placement of both the diamonds and the gradient sapphires demonstrate a high level of skill in gem-setting, ensuring the stones enhance rather than overwhelm the watch's design.



The dial of the sapphire and diamond model is executed in a sophisticated grey rhodium-plated finish, also featuring the traditional Clous de Paris pattern. Unlike the baguette diamond version, this dial includes text, rendered in a complementary blue color, linking visually with the sapphires on the bezel. The applied indexes and baton-style hands are rhodium-plated and feature luminescent material, ensuring legibility against the textured grey backdrop.



From an aesthetic perspective, the reference 81005-11S3464-1CM offers a cooler, more colorful counterpoint to the all-diamond version. The 38mm steel case and integrated bracelet share the same dimensions and finishing techniques – the mix of polished and satin surfaces providing visual interest. The gradient blue of the sapphires adds a distinct personality, shifting in hue as the watch moves on the wrist. Like its sibling, it features sapphire crystals on both the front and back and maintains a water resistance of 100 meters, making it suitable for daily wear.



Both new Laureato 38mm gem-set models are powered by the same engine: the Girard-Perregaux Calibre GP03300, specifically the GP03300-2564 variant. This in-house automatic movement is visible through the sapphire crystal case-back, offering a view into the mechanical heart of the watch. Developed and manufactured at the company's facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the GP03300 was optimally designed for the Laureato case dimensions.



The Calibre GP03300 is a self-winding mechanical movement, meaning it harnesses energy from the wearer's natural wrist movements to wind the mainspring. This function is facilitated by a pink gold oscillating weight, or rotor, which is itself decorated with a circular Côtes de Genève pattern. This eliminates the need for manual winding when the watch is worn regularly. When fully wound, the movement provides a minimum power reserve of 46 hours, allowing the watch to continue running autonomously for nearly two days off the wrist.



Measuring 25.95mm in diameter (11lignes) and a relatively slim 3.36mm in height, the movement allows the Laureato to maintain its slender profile. It operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), a standard for modern mechanical movements known for providing a good balance between accuracy and longevity. The calibre comprises 218 individual components and incorporates 27 jewels, which serve as low-friction bearings for rotating parts, enhancing efficiency and durability. The functions provided are central hours, minutes, and seconds, along with a date indication, typically displayed in an aperture on the dial.



Girard-Perregaux places immense importance on the finishing of its movements, viewing it as an integral part of high watchmaking. The GP03300 calibre showcases a plethora of traditional decorative techniques, reflecting the brand's reputation built over 230 years. Visible through the case-back are bridges adorned with straight Côtes de Genève stripes, bevelling (or chamfering) on component edges to catch the light, mirror-polished screws, circular graining (perlage) on the main plate, and engraved gilded text identifying the manufacture and calibre. Other refined finishes applied throughout the movement include satin finishing, snailing, and sunray patterns, demonstrating a comprehensive attention to detail even on parts not immediately visible.



The choice of a 38mm case diameter for these gem-set models positions them as highly versatile. This size strikes a balance that appeals to a broad audience, offering substantial presence on the wrist without being overwhelming. It fits comfortably under a cuff while still showcasing the distinctive Laureato design and the added brilliance of the set bezels. This considered sizing aligns with contemporary preferences and enhances the wearability of these luxurious pieces.



The integrated steel bracelet is fundamental to the Laureato's identity and comfort. Its design flows seamlessly from the case, creating a unified look. The bracelet links continue the alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces found on the case, contributing to the watch's overall intricate play of light. This integration is not merely aesthetic; it also enhances ergonomic comfort, allowing the watch to conform smoothly to the wrist. The bracelet is secured with a steel triple-folding buckle, providing security and ease of use.



These two new additions to the Laureato collection successfully blend the model's sporty origins and iconic design with the artistry of high gem-setting. They demonstrate Girard-Perregaux's ability to evolve its core collections while staying true to its heritage of in-house manufacturing and detailed craftsmanship. Whether opting for the pure brilliance of baguette diamonds or the colourful gradient of sapphires, these watches offer a distinct expression of the Laureato spirit, enhanced by the meticulous application of Métiers d’Art.



Regarding availability, Girard-Perregaux has announced that both versions of the Laureato 38mm Gem-Set are scheduled to go on sale starting today, April 15, 2025. They will be available worldwide through authorized retailers and Girard-Perregaux boutiques. The reference 81005-58S3463-1CM, featuring the white gold bezel set with baguette diamonds, is priced at USD 52,200. The reference 81005-11S3464-1CM, with the steel bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds and blue sapphires, carries a price of USD 20,100.



Laureato 38 mm Baguette Diamond



Case: Steel case with white gold bezel, 38.00 mm diameter, 10.00 mm height, anti-reflective sapphire crystal front, sapphire crystal case-back, 100 meters water resistance, bezel set with 32 baguette-cut diamonds (~3 cts).

Movement: Calibre GP03300-2564, self-winding mechanical, 25.95 mm diameter, 3.36 mm height, 28,800 Vib/h (4 Hz) frequency, 218 parts, 27 jewels, minimum 46-hour power reserve, pink gold oscillating weight, clockwise winding, functions: hours, minutes, central seconds, date.

Dial: White gold dial with Clous de Paris pattern, white gold GP logo and indexes with white luminescent material, gold-plated 'baton' hands with white luminescent material, no dial text between 4 and 8 o'clock.

Strap: Integrated steel bracelet with polished and satin finishes, steel triple-folding buckle.

Price: USD 52,200

Reference Number: 81005-58S3463-1CM

Notes: Features intricate Métiers d’Art gem-setting with custom-made baguette diamonds in a unique widening channel using an invisible setting technique.





Laureato 38 mm Diamond and Sapphire Gradient



Case: Steel case, 38.00 mm diameter, 10 mm height, anti-reflective sapphire crystal front, sapphire crystal case-back, 100 meters water resistance, steel bezel set with 10 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.177ct) & 46 brilliant-cut blue sapphires (~0.798ct), total ~0.975ct.

Movement: Calibre GP03300-2564, self-winding mechanical, 25.95 mm diameter, 3.36 mm height, 28,800 Vib/h (4 Hz) frequency, 218 parts, 27 jewels, minimum 46-hour power reserve, pink gold oscillating weight, clockwise winding, functions: hours, minutes, central seconds, date.

Dial: Rhodium-plated (grey) dial with Clous de Paris pattern, blue dial text, rhodium-plated indexes with white luminescent material, rhodium-plated 'baton' hands with white luminescent material.

Strap: Integrated steel bracelet with polished and satin finishes, steel triple-folding buckle.

Price: USD 20,100

Reference Number: 81005-11S3464-1CM

Notes: Features a striking gradient of blue sapphires on the bezel, transitioning from light near 6 o'clock to darker near 12 o'clock, with diamonds adjacent to 6 o'clock. Stone sizes vary, enhancing the octagonal bezel shape.