Gerald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal

A Fiery Legacy

Words by: Hourstriker Staff
January 22, 2025
Gérald Genta's name resonates through the halls of horological history, a maestro whose innovative spirit reshaped the landscape of watchmaking. Born in 1931, Genta's journey into the world of horology began in his native Switzerland, where he honed his skills as a jewelry designer. His creative genius quickly caught the attention of the watchmaking industry, leading to collaborations with prestigious brands like Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and IWC. Genta's designs were revolutionary, often featuring bold, geometric shapes and unconventional materials that challenged traditional notions of watch design. The introduction of the Royal Oak in 1972, with its octagonal bezel and exposed screws, was a groundbreaking moment that cemented Genta's status as a visionary. Another masterpiece, the Nautilus for Patek Philippe, followed in 1976, further showcasing his ability to blend luxury with sporty designs, creating timepieces that were both visually striking and highly functional. Genta's innovative approach wasn't limited to aesthetics; he was also a pioneer in the use of new materials, incorporating elements like tantalum and even rubber straps into his designs, pushing the boundaries of what was considered possible in high-end watchmaking. His daring spirit and commitment to pushing horological boundaries laid the foundation for his own brand, founded in 1969, which allowed him to fully realize his artistic vision. The Gérald Genta brand quickly became synonymous with avant-garde design and exceptional craftsmanship, attracting a clientele of discerning collectors who sought something truly unique. Over the years, Genta continued to innovate, creating iconic timepieces that are still celebrated today. His legacy endures, not only through his remarkable designs but also in the enduring influence he has had on the watch industry, inspiring a new generation of designers and watchmakers to pursue their own creative visions.

Courtesy of Gerald Genta


The Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal stands as a radiant testament to Gérald Genta's enduring legacy of innovation and bold design. This watch, the fourth in the Gentissima Oursin collection, immediately captivates with its striking blend of luxurious materials and distinctive aesthetics. The design draws inspiration from the sea urchin, a creature that fascinated Genta during a family vacation in Corsica in 1994. The Oursin Fire Opal continues the tradition of the original Oursin design, characterized by its round case adorned with beads that evoke the spiny exterior of the sea urchin. The 36.5mm case, crafted from glass-blasted yellow gold 3N, provides a warm, matte backdrop that contrasts beautifully with the 137 fire opal gems meticulously set around its circumference. Each fire opal is individually secured with a solid yellow gold pin, a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship that defines the Genta brand. This design choice not only enhances the watch's visual appeal but also highlights the intricate detail and dedication involved in its creation. The fire opals themselves are sourced from the depths of Mexican volcanoes, where trapped water gives them a distinct yellow, orange, or red hue. These gems are not just visually stunning; they are imbued with symbolism, representing creativity, well-being, and enhanced self-confidence. The choice of fire opal is a nod to Genta's fascination with meaningful and powerful stones, further enriching the watch's narrative and appeal.



The dial of the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal is a masterpiece in its own right, crafted from orange cornelian that echoes the warm hues of the fire opal gems. The rich, vibrant color of the dial is complemented by yellow gold 3N dots that serve as 5-minute markers, adding a touch of sophistication to the overall design. The faceted crystal, a signature shape of Mr. Genta, is also present in the slightly octagonal innermost edge of the case, a subtle yet significant detail that pays homage to the designer's iconic style. This combination of vibrant colors and geometric shapes creates a dial that is both visually striking and deeply meaningful. The dial is not just a functional component but a canvas that reflects Genta's artistic vision. The yellow gold 3N hands glide smoothly across the cornelian surface, ensuring legibility while maintaining the watch's luxurious aesthetic. The use of cornelian, a stone known for its warm, inviting color, enhances the overall vibrancy of the watch, making it a true statement piece. Each detail, from the placement of the markers to the shape of the hands, is thoughtfully designed to create a harmonious and visually engaging composition.

Courtesy of Gerald Genta


At the heart of the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal lies the GG-005 automatic movement, based on the Zenith Elite caliber, renowned for its reliability and precision. This movement, redesigned with a specific oscillating mass in 18 karat yellow gold, operates at a frequency of 4Hz and boasts a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. With a diameter of 25.6mm and a thickness of just 3.65mm, the movement is both compact and robust, comprising 126 components and 27 jewels. This sophisticated movement ensures that the watch is not only beautiful but also a paragon of horological engineering. The technical specifications underscore the commitment to quality and precision that is synonymous with the Genta brand. The choice of the Zenith Elite caliber, known for its accuracy and durability, further solidifies the watch's position as a high-end timepiece. The redesigned oscillating mass in 18 karat yellow gold is a bespoke touch that speaks to the attention to detail and craftsmanship invested in each component. The watch's 30-meter water resistance adds a practical element to its luxurious design, ensuring it can withstand everyday wear.



The craftsmanship involved in creating the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal is nothing short of extraordinary. Each of the 137 fire opal gems is individually screwed into the case with a yellow gold 3N pin, a process that demands precision and skill. This meticulous attention to detail ensures that each gem is securely set, creating a seamless and visually stunning perimeter around the case. The glass-blasted finish of the yellow gold case provides a subtle contrast to the brilliance of the fire opals, highlighting their natural beauty without overwhelming the design. The combination of traditional techniques and modern innovation is a hallmark of the Genta brand, and the Oursin Fire Opal is a perfect example of this synergy. The expertise of master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, from La Fabrique du Temps, is evident in every aspect of the watch's construction. Their commitment to upholding Genta's legacy is reflected in the precision and care with which each component is crafted and assembled. The result is a timepiece that is not only a functional instrument but also a work of art.

Courtesy of Gerald Genta


The strap of the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal is crafted from black alligator leather, a classic choice that complements the watch's luxurious aesthetic. The 17.5mm lug width ensures a comfortable fit, while the glass-blasted yellow gold 3N buckle, adorned with polished yellow gold beads, adds an extra touch of refinement. The buckle's design echoes the beaded detail of the case, creating a cohesive and harmonious look. The strap is not merely a functional element but an integral part of the watch's overall design, contributing to its visual appeal and wearability. The use of high-quality materials and meticulous craftsmanship extends to every detail of the strap, ensuring that it is both durable and comfortable. The black alligator leather provides a striking contrast to the warm tones of the gold and fire opals, enhancing the watch's luxurious feel. The strap's design is a testament to the thoughtful consideration given to every aspect of the watch's construction.



The Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal is a captivating timepiece that immediately draws the eye. The vibrant orange cornelian dial, framed by the fiery glow of the 137 opal gems, creates a striking contrast against the matte finish of the yellow gold case. The watch's design is a celebration of color and texture, with each element carefully chosen to enhance the overall aesthetic. The fire opals, with their unique ability to catch and reflect light, add a dynamic quality to the watch, making it appear to shimmer and glow from different angles. This interplay of light and color is a hallmark of Genta's design philosophy, and it is beautifully realized in the Oursin Fire Opal. The intricate setting of the gems, combined with the vibrant color of the dial, creates a visual spectacle that is both luxurious and playful. The watch's design invites closer inspection, revealing the meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail that went into its creation. For a collector, the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal is not just a timepiece but a piece of horological art, a conversation starter that embodies the spirit of innovation and creativity that defines the Genta brand.

Courtesy of Gerald Genta


The symbolism behind the fire opals adds another layer of depth to the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal. These gems, formed in the depths of volcanoes, are believed to embody creativity, well-being, and enhanced self-confidence. This aligns perfectly with Genta's approach to watch design, which was always driven by a desire to create something unique and meaningful. The fire opal is a stone associated with artists and those seeking to ignite their creative spark, making it a fitting choice for a watch that is itself a work of art. The use of these gems not only enhances the watch's visual appeal but also imbues it with a deeper significance. Each fire opal is a testament to the natural beauty and power of the earth, a reminder of the forces that shape our world. This connection to nature is a recurring theme in Genta's work, and it is beautifully expressed in the Oursin Fire Opal. The watch is not just a timekeeping device but a symbol of creativity and personal expression.



The Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal is more than just a beautiful watch; it is a tribute to Gérald Genta's enduring legacy. His wife, Evelyn Genta, for whom the Oursin remains one of her favorite designs, notes that the new Fire Opal model reminds her of her late husband's passion for adorning his watches with beautiful stones. The way the fire opals catch the light was a source of endless fascination for Genta, and this watch captures that spirit perfectly. The Oursin Fire Opal is a modern interpretation of Genta's design principles, combining his love for organic colors and powerful stones with contemporary craftsmanship. The watch embodies Genta's instinctive and personal approach to design, creating a timepiece that is both timeless and innovative. It is a fitting homage to a man who was not only a master watchmaker but also a visionary artist.

Courtesy of Gerald Genta


The revival of the Gérald Genta brand, under the stewardship of La Fabrique du Temps – Louis Vuitton, is a testament to the enduring appeal of Genta's designs. With the guidance of Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, both of whom worked directly with Genta, the brand continues to push the boundaries of horological design while staying true to its founder's vision. The focus on high-watchmaking complications, reinterpreted into whimsical creations, ensures that the Genta legacy lives on in each new timepiece. The brand's commitment to reviving Genta's DNA and uncompromising approach to watchmaking is evident in the Oursin Fire Opal. This watch is not just a continuation of the Oursin line but a bold statement about the future of the Genta brand. It represents a commitment to innovation, creativity, and excellence, values that were central to Genta's work throughout his career.



The pricing of the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal is available upon request, reflecting its status as a highly exclusive and limited-edition timepiece. The watch is slated for release in May 2025, and its availability will likely be limited to a select group of discerning collectors. This exclusivity adds to the watch's desirability, making it a coveted piece for those who appreciate the artistry and craftsmanship that define the Genta brand.



Case: Constructed from glass-blasted yellow gold 3N. Adorned with 137 fire opal gems, each individually fixed with solid yellow gold pins. Measures 36.5mm in diameter and 9.6mm thick. Water-resistant up to 30 meters.



Movement: Powered by the automatic Calibre GG-005. Offers a power reserve of 50 hours and operates at a frequency of 4Hz. The movement measures 25.6mm in diameter and 3.65mm in thickness. Comprises 126 components and includes 27 jewels.



Dial: Features a cornelian dial with yellow gold 3N 5-minute indexes.



Strap: Black alligator leather strap. Lug width of 17.5mm. Features a glass-blasted yellow gold 3N buckle with polished yellow gold beads. Other strap options are available upon request.



Price: Upon request.



Notes: The most flamboyant piece in the Gentissima Oursin collection. Availability begins in May 2025.
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