At Watches & Wonders 2024,
Gerald Charles unveiled the Masterlink, the newest iteration of the iconic Maestro case designed by Gérald Charles Genta himself. The Masterlink is the first watch from Gerald Charles to feature an asymmetrical integrated bracelet.
The Masterlink is thinner than the Maestro and retains the instantly recognizable design elements of its predecessor. It exudes a refined elegance that seamlessly blends sophistication with sporty flair. This timepiece is a testament to Gerald Charles’ ability to skilfully evolve upon the legacy of its founder.
Courtesy of Gerald Charles
The Masterlink is crafted from steel, a bold choice that pays homage to Monsieur Genta’s pioneering vision of this material as precious. The year 2024 marks a new chapter for Gerald Charles, as the brand builds upon its heritage and writes the next pages in its history.
The Masterlink name reflects the Maison’s intent to honor the founder’s creative vision. The watch adds links to the original Maestro design, but with a modern twist. A key challenge for Gerald Charles’ R&D team was to create an integrated bracelet that maintained the Maestro’s emblematic asymmetrical case, which includes the famous "smile" at 6 o'clock. They also had to ensure the design offered wearers a comfortable fit.
The resulting bracelet seamlessly follows the curves of the Maestro case. The asymmetrical nature of the watch adds complexity to the construction of the bracelet, as each link is meticulously crafted to perfectly conform to the case shape.
“The Masterlink represents the next step in the brand’s evolution,” says Federico Ziviani, CEO of Gérald Charles. “The piece represents a significant leap forward for the brand, propelling it into the future.”
Courtesy of Gerald Charles
Octavio Garcia, Director of the Creative Team at Gerald Charles, adds: “The initial sketches for the Masterlink date back to 2020, and the prototype was completed in 2024. Throughout this period, the core design remained unchanged. However the technical aspects continued to evolve to address the challenges inherent in creating an asymmetrical watch. Despite these technical hurdles, our goal was always to maintain a simple and clean aesthetic.”
Garcia goes on to say that his vision was to design the first Gerald Charles watch with an integrated bracelet. He drew inspiration from the Gerald Charles archives, which include the last 11 years of sketches and drawings by Monsieur Genta.
“The complexity lies in the details,” Garcia says. “It took nearly four years to bring this idea to life and to fulfil our goal of making the Masterlink a worthy successor to Gérald Charles Genta’s creative legacy.”
The Masterlink emerges as a stunning example of meticulous design and exceptional craftsmanship. It pushes the boundaries of watchmaking while retaining the core identity of the Gerald Charles brand.
The Masterlink's case subtly modifies the iconic Maestro design, the most notable feature being the signature "smile" curve at the 6 o'clock position. While the Maestro's case takes a rectangular shape, the Masterlink's case is based on a square, giving it a more compact, contained look.
A particularly noteworthy detail is the Masterlink's screw-down crown. The case itself boasts an amazingly slim 7.9mm profile, and a screw-down crown would typically add bulkiness. To maintain that slim aesthetic, Gerald Charles designers had to devise a way to make the crown functional and waterproof without impacting the case dimensions. The Masterlink delivers 100 meters of water resistance, a testament to the brand's technical ingenuity.
Courtesy of Gerald Charles
The Masterlink marks the first time Gerald Charles has equipped a watch with an integrated bracelet, and its design is as impressive as it is complex. At 6 o'clock, the bracelet's center links gently echo the "smile" curve of the case. The links then subtly straighten out as they extend upwards toward the 12 o'clock position, mirroring the straight lines of the case and bezel.
"Our aim was to let simplicity conceal complexity," explains Federico Ziviani. "Many watches try to create the illusion of complexity by using visible screws or basic folding clasps. The Masterlink does the opposite – you feel everything, but you can see none of the mechanical wizardry holding it together."
This attention to detail is evident even in the bracelet construction. The links are held in place by a hidden system that requires a magnifying glass to be fully appreciated. The butterfly clasp is also expertly concealed, and its components are specifically engineered to ensure comfort against the skin—a rarity in the world of integrated bracelets.
Gerald Charles has gone even further to ensure a perfectly snug and comfortable fit, creating an innovative sizing system for the Masterlink that lets the owner add or remove half-links instead of a full-size link. With such a precise adjustment mechanism, the watch can conform flawlessly to any wrist.
The watch's beauty lies in its finishes and unique details. The central links of the bracelet feature a brushed finish that aligns with the vertical lines of the dial, creating a sense of continuity in design. This touch, inspired by the sharp lines seen in classic Italian men's suits, is a subtle nod to Gérald Charles Genta's heritage.
Courtesy of Gerald Charles
The Masterlink's dial is adorned with a striking linear motif comprised of two separate layers, further emphasizing its unique verticality. Gerald Charles has opted for new indices, hands, and minute markers with this model, each designed to provide optimal readability while maintaining an exceptionally slim profile. The hands and indices are luminescent, a particularly remarkable feat given the thinness of the minute hand.
The Masterlink's 38mm stainless steel case features the same care given to the other components. The crown sports a geometry exclusive to the model, with its perimeter and apex adorned with the Clou de Paris pattern that graced its Maestro predecessor—a tasteful reference that reinforces the brand's design cohesion.
A peek through the case back offers striking visual elements. The circular satin-finished bezel is a highly unusual feature in watchmaking. "This is something that, to my knowledge, hasn't been done before," notes Octavio Garcia. "It's about rejuvenating the idea that every part of the watch can and should be beautiful, even those you normally don't see."
The Masterlink's movement is a marvel in itself, boasting a micro-rotor architecture that allows for an astonishing thinness of only 2.7mm. The micro-rotor features a dazzling two-part finish, sandblasted at the base and radiating outward in a sunburst pattern on top. Circular graining adds further contrast and complements the vertical Côtes de Genève stripes on the bridges, creating a dynamic balance between the watch's front and back faces.
The Gerald Charles design team even meticulously redesigned the screws—each is now an original Gerald Charles star-shaped screw, introduced first in the Maestro 8.0 Squelette. These unique screws, designed in-house and manufactured in partnership with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, are made to Gerald Charles' exacting standards.
"Our commitment to quality also extends to our partners. Working with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier ensures not only the highest quality movements but also unparalleled reliability, precision, and functionality," adds Ziviani.
Courtesy of Gerald Charles
The Masterlink's exceptionally compact 30mm manufacture movement embodies a technical signature coveted by collectors. This micro-rotor driven movement provides a full two days of power reserve while letting the wearer admire the stunning mechanical workings in their entirety.
The Gerald Charles Masterlink stands as a testament to the Maison's ability to evolve with the times while staying true to its roots. It is a bold and beautiful timepiece crafted with an uncompromising dedication to both technical excellence and design refinement. The Masterlink is available in two dial colors, Silver and Blue.