Franck Muller introduces a striking addition to its lineup with the Vanguard Royal Bauxite Skeleton collection, a series that merges advanced material science with the brand's established expertise in intricate watch mechanics. This line serves as a direct nod to the origins of aluminum, utilizing the metal itself as the primary case material and drawing its name from Les Baux, the French village pivotal in aluminum's history. The result is a timepiece that is both lightweight and structurally expressive, showcasing the inner workings through bold skeletonization.
The history of
Franck Muller is deeply rooted in pushing the boundaries of traditional watchmaking. Known affectionately in horology circles as the "Master of Complications," the brand built its reputation on creating exceptionally complex timepieces. Franck Muller himself, along with co-founder Vartan Sirmakes, established the company with a vision to innovate. This drive led to numerous world firsts, including the groundbreaking development of the first tri-axial tourbillon, a mechanism that compensates for gravity in multiple planes, and the creation of the Aeternitas Mega 4, widely regarded as the most complicated wristwatch ever produced, integrating a staggering number of functions. This spirit of invention continues at their Watchland manufacture in Genthod, Switzerland, where every aspect of a Franck Muller watch, from the complex movements to the distinct cases and dials, is conceived, developed, and assembled by skilled engineers and watchmakers.
Courtesy of Franck Muller
The Vanguard Royal Bauxite Skeleton takes its name and primary material inspiration directly from the history of aluminum. Bauxite is the chief ore from which aluminum is extracted, and it was first identified and named after the village of Les Baux-de-Provence in southern France. By choosing aluminum for the case material, Franck Muller not only leverages the metal's inherent lightness and potential for vibrant color treatments but also crafts a narrative connection to discovery and industrial progress. This material choice underscores the collection's theme: marrying the heritage of a foundational industrial material with contemporary high-watchmaking techniques.
The case itself adheres to Franck Muller's signature Vanguard design, a modern interpretation of the classic tonneau (barrel) shape. Measuring 44mm across, 53.7mm from lug end to lug end, and 12.7mm thick, the dimensions create a substantial presence on the wrist, yet the properties of aluminum ensure it remains surprisingly light and comfortable. The curves of the Vanguard case are carefully sculpted, flowing smoothly to integrate with the strap, presenting a profile that is both assertive and refined. The use of aluminum allows for a unique aesthetic, different from traditional steel or precious metals, emphasizing a modern, technical feel while housed within a shape that nods to early 20th-century watch design influences.
Central to the Vanguard Royal Bauxite's identity is its dramatic skeletonization. Franck Muller deliberately omits a conventional dial, instead using the structural bridges of the movement itself as the visual face of the watch. This openwork architecture lays bare the intricate mechanics beneath the sapphire crystal, transforming the functional components into the primary aesthetic elements. Every gear, lever, and spring becomes part of the display, offering an uninterrupted view into the heart of the timepiece. This approach is a hallmark of Franck Muller's commitment to celebrating mechanical artistry and technical prowess.
Courtesy of Franck Muller
Powering this intricate display is the in-house caliber MVT FM 1740-VS, a manually wound movement specifically designed for skeletonization. Comprising 175 individual components, this movement is a testament to Franck Muller's engineering capabilities. Each part is meticulously arranged not just for function, but for maximum visual impact, allowing the wearer to appreciate the complex interplay of the mechanism. The design philosophy ensures that the beauty of the engineering is as prominent as its timekeeping function.
The performance characteristics of the MVT FM 1740-VS are robust. It boasts an impressive 7-day power reserve, achieved through the use of two mainspring barrels working in sequence or parallel. This extended autonomy means the watch needs winding only once a week. The movement operates with a large balance wheel oscillating at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz). This traditional beat rate contributes to the movement's longevity and allows for a clear view of the balance wheel's rhythmic motion, a captivating aspect of any mechanical watch, especially one so openly displayed.
A particularly noteworthy and unconventional feature of the MVT FM 1740-VS is the placement of the regulator assembly. Typically, the mechanism for fine-tuning the watch's rate (the regulator) is situated on the back side of the balance cock or bridge, often hidden from view on the dial side. Franck Muller, however, positions this critical component prominently at the 8 o'clock position relative to the balance wheel, visible directly through the crystal. This audacious decision turns a technical element into a focal point, highlighting the brand's confidence in its mechanics and its desire to share the intricacies of watchmaking openly.
The finishing of the movement components is executed to a high standard, crucial for a skeleton watch where every detail is exposed. The regulator assembly, given its prominent placement, receives mirror polishing, also known as black polishing or poli noir. This demanding technique creates a surface so smooth that it appears black from most angles, reflecting light intensely only at a specific angle, showcasing exceptional hand-finishing skill.
Courtesy of Franck Muller
Further enhancing the visual depth and refinement of the movement is the extensive use of beveling, or anglage, applied to the edges of the mainplate and bridges, as well as the regulator assembly. This process involves hand-filing the sharp edges of components to a precise angle and then polishing them to a high shine. Beveling not only adds visual appeal by creating contrasting reflective surfaces but also historically served to remove burrs from manufacturing.
Additional decorative techniques contribute to the intricate look of the movement. Flank drawing, likely referring to straight graining or étirage, is applied to the flat sides (flanks) of the mainplate and bridges, creating a fine, linear texture. Diamond polishing is used on the sinks – the countersunk openings for screws and jewels – ensuring these functional points are also aesthetically refined with bright, sharp edges.
The wheels, the twin barrel drums, and their covers feature circular satin brushing. This technique creates a pattern of concentric circles with a soft, non-reflective sheen, contrasting nicely with polished elements and providing a clean, technical look to these rotating parts. This contrasts with the general satin brushing applied across the larger surfaces of the mainplate and bridges, which provides a smooth, matte texture that serves as a backdrop for the more polished and intricate components.
With no traditional dial present, the function falls to the meticulously finished bridges and the periphery of the case. The bridges form the structural support for the gear train and provide the visual architecture of the watch face. Applied hour markers are typically placed around the outer edge, mounted on the flange ring or directly interacting with the case structure, ensuring readability without obscuring the view of the mechanics below. Large, distinct hands, often matching the case color or providing a deliberate contrast, indicate the hours and minutes.
Courtesy of Franck Muller
Visually, the Vanguard Royal Bauxite Skeleton makes a bold statement. The tonneau case, rendered in brightly anodized aluminum, comes in striking colors like vivid red, deep blue, vibrant orange, cool teal, and rich green. This colorful frame surrounds the intricate, metallic landscape of the skeletonized movement. The interplay between the colored case, the metallic grey or decorated bridges and gears, and the specific placement of elements like the balance wheel and the small seconds sub-dial at 6 o'clock creates a dynamic and layered appearance. The depth achieved through the openworking allows light to pass through the watch, highlighting the complexity and the finishing of each visible part.
The integration of the strap is a key design element of the Vanguard case. Instead of using conventional spring bars fitted between lugs, the strap attaches directly to the case using a system of two unseen screws. This method creates a very smooth, uninterrupted flow from the case body into the strap, enhancing the cohesiveness of the design. The supplied strap is made of alligator leather, known for its durability and luxurious texture, and features meticulous stitching along its edges, adding a touch of refinement and reinforcing its construction. This thoughtful integration ensures the watch wears comfortably despite its size.
Complementing the strap is a buckle crafted to match the watch's aesthetic. A brushed finish to the buckle gives the metal a non-reflective, textured appearance, often associated with a modern or sporty character, which aligns well with the technical look of the Vanguard Royal Bauxite and the use of aluminum.
The essential functions provided by the MVT FM 1740-VS movement in this reference (V 45 S6 SQT BXT GRMC ACBR) are hours and minutes, indicated by the central hands, and running seconds, displayed on a sub-dial positioned prominently at 6 o'clock within the skeletonized framework. Operating the watch is straightforward via the crown, which has two positions: the first position (pushed in) is for manually winding the movement to build up the 7-day power reserve, and the second position (pulled out) allows for setting the time.
The case construction provides water resistance up to 30 meters. This level of resistance generally means the watch can withstand splashes of water, such as from rain or handwashing, but it is not suitable for swimming, showering, or any kind of immersion in water. This is typical for highly skeletonized watches where the complexity of the case and crystal assembly prioritizes visual display over high water resistance.
Courtesy of Franck Muller
The Franck Muller Vanguard Royal Bauxite Skeleton is a compelling demonstration of the brand's approach to modern watchmaking. It successfully combines an unconventional case material – aluminum – with a deep connection to industrial history, presents it in a bold, contemporary form via the Vanguard case and vibrant colors, and showcases intricate mechanical engineering through dramatic skeletonization. The in-house, manually wound movement with its lengthy power reserve and unique regulator placement further emphasizes Franck Muller's technical capabilities and flair for distinctive design choices.
As with many high-end timepieces from Franck Muller, the Vanguard Royal Bauxite Skeleton collection is available through authorized dealers and Franck Muller boutiques worldwide. Specific pricing details are generally provided upon request to these official points of sale, reflecting the exclusive nature and craftsmanship involved in creating such watches. Availability may vary depending on the specific color variant and region.
Case: Vanguard shape (tonneau) in Aluminium; Width: 44 mm, Length: 53.7 mm, Thickness: 12.7 mm; Sapphire crystal; Water resistant up to 30 meters.
Movement: In-House MVT FM 1740-VS; Manually wound; 7 days power reserve via two barrels; 175 components; Frequency 18,000 vph; Width: 37.05 mm, Length: 40.2 mm, Thickness: 6 mm; Skeletonized; Decorated with mirror polishing, beveling, flank drawing, diamond polishing, circular and standard satin brushing; Regulator assembly visible at 8 o'clock position.
Dial: No traditional dial; Skeletonized architecture using meticulously finished movement bridges; Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds at 6 o'clock.
Strap: Alligator strap; Seamlessly integrated into the case using two unseen screws; Meticulous stitching; Brushed buckle.
Reference Number: V 45 S6 SQT BXT GRMC (ACBR)
Notes: Named after the French village Les Baux where aluminum ore was discovered, featuring a distinct aluminum case. The timepiece highlights Franck Muller's technical expertise through its bold skeletonization, revealing the in-house MVT FM 1740-VS movement with its unusual regulator placement and 7-day power reserve.