Franck Muller Curvex CX Mineral

Natures Dial

Words by: Hourstriker Staff
April 28, 2025
Franck Muller timepieces often occupy a space defined by bold design choices and a commitment to complex watchmaking. The brand, established in Geneva, quickly gained prominence by challenging traditional aesthetics, most notably through its development of the distinctive Cintrée Curvex case. This unique, curved tonneau shape became a hallmark, setting Franck Muller apart and providing a three-dimensional canvas for both intricate mechanisms and artistic expression. The company, a joint venture between the talented watchmaker Franck Muller and entrepreneur Vartan Sirmakes, successfully merged Swiss horological tradition with a fresh, often avant-garde, perspective.



The early reputation of the brand was built on mechanical mastery. Franck Muller himself earned accolades for creating highly complicated wristwatches, introducing world-first combinations of functions that solidified the manufacture's place among technically proficient watchmakers. While these complex pieces demonstrated horological expertise, it was the Cintrée Curvex case, debuting in the early 1990s, that truly captured the public imagination and established the brand's enduring visual identity. Its complex geometry, curving along multiple axes, required innovative manufacturing processes and offered a unique profile and wrist feel.

Courtesy of Franck Muller


Drawing from this legacy of distinctive form and creative material use, Franck Muller introduced the Curvex CX Mineral collection. This series represents a thoughtful evolution, blending the established architectural lines of the Curvex case with an inspiration sourced directly from the natural world. The collection is conceptually grounded in the slow, powerful processes of mineral formation within the earth, translating the transformation of raw elements into crystalline beauty onto the watch dial. It's an homage to the patient artistry of nature.



At the heart of the Curvex CX Mineral collection lies its most defining feature: the use of natural stone for the watch dials. Instead of conventional metal or lacquered surfaces, each timepiece showcases a carefully prepared slice of mineral. The collection utilizes various stones, including the deep, often banded greens of malachite, the earthy and varied tones of jasper, and the subtle hues of lepis. These materials are specifically selected for their captivating colors, unique natural patterns, and inherent textures.



The incorporation of these geological materials means that every watch produced within the Curvex CX Mineral line possesses an individual character. The specific veining in a piece of malachite or the exact composition of colors within a jasper dial are unique products of natural formation processes. No two dials can ever be identical, offering a level of exclusivity inherent in the material itself. This uniqueness appeals to those who value individuality and the story embedded within natural objects. The light interacts differently with each stone surface, creating subtle shifts in appearance and depth.



Encasing these natural wonders is the Curvex CX case, a modern interpretation of Franck Muller's iconic tonneau shape. It retains the signature flowing curves but incorporates contemporary refinements. The dimensions across the collection typically measure 30 mm in width and 44 mm in length, with a thickness of around 8.2 mm, offering a balanced presence suitable for various wrist sizes. The cases are crafted from materials including robust Stainless Steel and precious metals like 18k gold, allowing for different expressions of luxury and style within the collection. Regardless of the material, the cases receive a meticulous hand-polished finish, enhancing their complex curves and surfaces.

Courtesy of Franck Muller


A notable feature of the Curvex CX case design is how the sapphire crystal extends nearly edge-to-edge, minimizing the visual interruption of a traditional bezel when viewed from the front. This design choice deliberately draws the eye towards the dial, emphasizing the beauty of the mineral surface. The crystal itself is curved to match the case's complex contours, requiring precision manufacturing to ensure optical clarity and structural integrity. This seamless integration of case and crystal enhances the overall fluidity of the design.



Positioned beneath the overarching sapphire crystal lies an internal bezel. This component, often crafted from the same material as the main case (be it steel or gold), adds a subtle structural layer to the watch face. More than just a spacer, this internal bezel features fine engraved lines. These engravings introduce a sense of geometric order and rhythm, providing a sophisticated contrast to the organic, free-flowing patterns found in the natural stone dials. This interplay between structured detail and natural form creates a balanced and visually engaging composition.



Readability against the varied backgrounds of the stone dials is ensured by meticulously hand-applied numerals. These numerals, often in Franck Muller's characteristic stylized font, are carefully positioned on the stone surface. Their polished or finished surfaces catch the light, making them stand out clearly while harmonizing with the overall aesthetic. The dials are further protected by a layer of Zapon varnish, helping to preserve the integrity of the stone and the applied elements over time.



Driving the hours, minutes, and seconds hands across these unique dials is the calibre MVT 2536-SC. This self-winding mechanical movement is the engine powering the Curvex CX Mineral collection. It operates at a standard frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), ensuring reliable timekeeping performance. The bidirectional winding mechanism efficiently replenishes the mainspring's energy, providing a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. Comprising 191 components, the movement is a durable and proven calibre appropriate for a luxury timepiece focused on aesthetic expression backed by solid mechanics.

Courtesy of Franck Muller


The movement's physical dimensions, a diameter of 25.6 mm and a thickness of 3.6 mm, contribute to the watch's wearable profile, allowing the Curvex CX case to maintain its signature curves without excessive bulk. While the primary focus of the Curvex CX Mineral is its dial artistry, the mechanical heart is built to provide dependable daily service, displaying the time with clarity via elegantly shaped central hour, minute, and second hands.



In keeping with fine watchmaking traditions, the MVT 2536-SC movement receives considerable attention in terms of decoration and finishing, even on components not always visible to the wearer. This dedication to finishing underscores the overall quality of the timepiece. Techniques commonly employed include Côtes de Genève striping on the bridges and rotor, creating visually appealing parallel waves that shimmer as they catch the light. Perlage, or circular graining, is often applied to the mainplate, providing a contrasting texture.



Other refinements involve beveling (Anglage) the edges of bridges and the rotor board, where edges are filed and polished to highlight their shape. Diamond polishing is used on countersinks and bevels for added brilliance. Sunray brushing creates radial patterns on parts like the rotor segment and barrel cover, while snailing adds concentric patterns to components like the ratchets. These traditional decorative techniques transform the movement from a mere machine into an example of meticulous mechanical craft, reflecting the artistic intention seen on the watch's exterior.



Attention to detail extends to how the strap or bracelet integrates with the case. The Curvex CX Mineral collection utilizes a system where the strap or bracelet attaches via concealed screws rather than conventional spring bars. This engineering choice results in a remarkably smooth and uninterrupted transition from the lines of the case lugs into the band. It reinforces the fluid, unified aesthetic of the Curvex design, making the watch and its attachment feel like a single, cohesive piece.

Courtesy of Franck Muller


Options for wear typically include high-grade alligator leather straps, known for their comfort and luxurious texture. These straps often feature fine edge stitching, enhancing both their appearance and longevity. Alternatively, models are available with bracelets crafted from the same material as the case, be it stainless steel or 18k gold. These metal bracelets continue the flow of the case lines and offer a different wearing experience and visual statement. Both strap and bracelet options are designed with ergonomics in mind, ensuring the watch sits comfortably despite its distinctive shape.



From a user perspective, the Curvex CX Mineral offers essential timekeeping functions: hours, minutes, and central seconds. Adjusting the time and manually winding the movement is done through the crown, which features two operational positions. Position 1 allows for winding, while Position 2 enables time setting. The collection generally offers a water resistance rating of 30 meters, providing protection against incidental contact with water like rain or splashes, though it's not intended for immersion activities.



Ultimately, the Franck Muller Curvex CX Mineral collection stands as a compelling fusion of the brand's established design identity and a novel exploration of natural materials. It leverages the dramatic canvas of the Curvex CX case to showcase the inherent beauty of minerals like malachite and jasper. The collection tells a story of transformation, connecting the slow geological formation of these stones with the precision and artistry of modern watchmaking.



The visual appeal is immediate and distinct. The vibrant colors and unique patterns of the stone dials offer a striking contrast to the polished curves of the steel or gold case. The edge-to-edge crystal and the subtle detailing of the engraved inner bezel work together to frame the natural material perfectly. Each piece promises a unique aesthetic experience, directly linked to the specific piece of stone used for its dial.

Courtesy of Franck Muller


This collection resonates with those who admire Franck Muller's non-traditional approach to watch design but seek an expression of luxury rooted in natural beauty rather than overt complexity or gem-setting alone. It offers individuality not just through design, but through the material itself. The use of earth-formed minerals provides a tangible connection to the natural world, rendered wearable through sophisticated craft.



Locating and acquiring a piece from the Curvex CX Mineral collection typically involves contacting Franck Muller boutiques or their network of authorized dealers. These official channels can provide details on the specific models currently available, including the various combinations of case materials, stone dials, and strap or bracelet options. Pricing will reflect the chosen configuration, with factors like precious metal cases, specific stone rarity, and the choice of strap versus a full metal bracelet influencing the final cost.



Case: Curvex CX shape; 18k white gold; Width: 30 mm, Length: 44 mm, Thickness: 8.2 mm; 18k white gold internal bezel; Hand polished finish; Sapphire crystal; Water resistant up to 30 meters.

Movement: MVT 2536-SC; Bidirectional automatic winding; 42 hours power reserve; 191 components; Diameter: Ø 25.6 mm, Thickness: 3.6 mm; Frequency: 28,800 vph; Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds; Decorations include Côtes de Genève, Perlage, Beveling, Sunray brushing.

Dial: Natural stone dial (e.g., jasper, malachite, lepis/lepidolite - specific stone varies); Numerals meticulously applied by hand; Protective Zapon varnish layer.

Strap: Options include integrated Alligator Strap or 18k white gold bracelet; Seamless integration using two unseen screws instead of spring bars; Stitching detail on strap edges.

Price: Upon Request

Reference Number: CX 30 SC AT FO MINERAL

Notes: Each dial features a unique piece of natural stone, inspired by mineral formation. The Curvex CX case includes an edge-to-edge sapphire crystal and an engraved internal bezel. Features seamless strap/bracelet integration.
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