Franck Muller Curvex CX Color Crazy Hours

Franck Muller timepieces often challenge conventional watchmaking, and the Curvex CX Color Crazy Hours collection stands as a vibrant testament to this spirit. These watches embrace a sense of playful disruption, building upon one of the brand's most recognizable and technically interesting complications. It's a celebration of time told differently, wrapped in a package bursting with color and dynamic design cues, offering a fresh perspective on wrist-worn art.



The brand Franck Muller itself carved a niche in the late 20th and early 21st centuries by combining traditional Swiss watchmaking prowess with a flair for the dramatic and complex. Known for pioneering tonneau-shaped cases when round watches dominated, and for developing intricate complications, the company established an identity centered on bold aesthetics and mechanical innovation. The Crazy Hours complication, introduced earlier, perfectly encapsulates this philosophy.



At the core of the Curvex CX Color Crazy Hours is its namesake mechanism, a patented complication that fundamentally alters how time is read. Instead of the hour hand sweeping sequentially around the dial, it jumps instantaneously to the correct hour numeral at the top of each hour. The numerals themselves are arranged in a seemingly random, non-sequential order scattered across the dial. While the minute hand follows a traditional 60-minute track, the hour hand performs a precise, unpredictable leap, making each check of the time a small moment of mechanical theater.



This intriguing display requires a sophisticated mechanism working behind the scenes. The "Disordered Jumping Hours," as the function is formally known, relies on a complex module built upon a reliable base movement. It’s engineered to ensure the hour hand lands perfectly aligned with the correct numeral instantly as the minute hand strikes 60. This offers a constantly surprising yet completely functional way to track the hours, challenging the wearer's perception of time's linear flow.



Housing this mechanical marvel is the distinctive Curvex CX case, a modern interpretation of Franck Muller’s signature tonneau (barrel) shape. Rendered in stainless steel for this collection, the case measures 36 mm across and a substantial 58.1 mm from lug-end to lug-end, with a thickness of 12.3 mm. Its profile is defined by flowing, harmonious curves that wrap comfortably around the wrist, creating a silhouette that is both bold and refined. The lines are fluid, giving the watch a seamless, organic appearance that is instantly recognizable as a Franck Muller creation.



A key feature of the Curvex CX case design is the sapphire crystal, which extends practically from edge to edge, minimizing the visual presence of the bezel from the top view. This expansive crystal enhances the view of the dial and contributes to the case's sleek, contemporary feel. Furthermore, the design incorporates an inner bezel, a distinct element that adds another layer of visual interest and depth between the crystal and the main dial surface. This inner bezel is often presented in colors that complement or contrast with the main dial.



The dial itself is a focal point of creativity in the Color Crazy Hours collection. It employs a striking two-layer construction that adds considerable visual depth and texture. The upper layer features a stamped Clous de Paris pattern, a traditional guilloché technique creating a hobnail texture, lending a touch of classic watchmaking craft to the otherwise avant-garde design. This upper layer is precisely cut out, creating apertures that reveal the hour numerals positioned beneath.



Beneath this textured top layer lies the lower dial plate, which serves as the canvas for the collection's vibrant colorways. This layer provides bold, varied tones that define the personality of each watch variant. Options range from intense greens to electric blues and other expressive shades, providing a dramatic backdrop for the numerals. The unconventional arrangement of the large, hand-applied numerals appears even more striking against these colorful backgrounds. The clean contours created by the cut-outs on the upper layer ensure the numerals are clearly legible despite their scattered placement.



The visual dynamism extends to the internal bezel, which is also offered in a range of coordinating or contrasting colors. This element frames the main dial display, adding a final playful accent and tying the color scheme together. The combination of the textured upper dial, the brightly colored lower dial, the uniquely arranged numerals, and the colored inner bezel creates a rich, multi-dimensional face that invites closer inspection.



Powering the jumping hour hand and the conventional minute hand is the MVD 2800-CHR automatic movement. This calibre operates with bidirectional winding, meaning the rotor winds the mainspring regardless of the direction it spins, enhancing winding efficiency during wear. Fully wound, it provides a power reserve of approximately 42 hours, a standard duration for modern automatic movements, ensuring the watch keeps running reliably off the wrist for nearly two days.



The complexity of the Crazy Hours mechanism is reflected in the movement's construction, which comprises 201 individual components meticulously assembled. The base movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). This beat rate is common in contemporary Swiss movements, contributing to accuracy and the smooth sweep of the minute hand (though the hour hand famously jumps).



Beyond its technical function, the MVD 2800-CHR movement features extensive decoration, showcasing traditional Swiss watchmaking finishes even if they aren't always visible through a solid case back (though exhibition backs are common on many Franck Muller models). These finishes include Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes) applied to the bridges, the rotor plate, and an additional plate, creating a wave-like pattern that catches the light.



Further decoration includes Perlage, a pattern of small, overlapping circles, applied to the mainplate. Beveling, the process of creating polished angles on component edges, is used on the additional-plate springs and the rotor plate, enhancing the visual definition and demonstrating meticulous hand-finishing. Sinks (countersinks for screws or jewels) and bridge bevels receive diamond polishing for a bright, reflective finish.



The attention to detail continues with Sunray brushing applied to the bridges, the rotor segment (the oscillating weight), the bearing cage, and the barrel cover, creating patterns that radiate from a central point. Snailing, a spiral pattern, is found on the ratchets, while circular satin brushing provides a smooth, non-reflective finish to the wheels of the gear train. Even the additional-plate springs feature satin brushing, ensuring a high level of finish throughout the calibre.



Franck Muller integrates the strap into the Curvex CX case in a unique way that enhances the watch's flowing lines. Instead of using traditional spring bars visible between the lugs, the strap attaches via two unseen screws. This method creates a very smooth, almost seamless transition from the metal of the case to the material of the strap, reinforcing the integrated design philosophy of the Curvex CX shape.



The strap itself is crafted from alligator leather, a premium material known for its durability and distinctive pattern. Meticulous stitching runs along the edges of the strap, adding a refined detail while also contributing to its longevity. This combination of a high-quality material, careful finishing, and the integrated attachment method results in a strap that is designed to be both comfortable for the wearer and visually harmonious with the watch head.



Securing the watch to the wrist is a stainless steel buckle, matching the case material. The buckle provides a reliable closure and complements the overall aesthetic of the timepiece. The thoughtful design of the strap and buckle system ensures the watch feels balanced and secure during wear, despite its relatively large case dimensions.



Operating the Curvex CX Color Crazy Hours is straightforward. The crown, located on the side of the case, has two positions. Position 1, when pulled out slightly or in its resting state depending on the specific design, is used for manually winding the movement. Pulling the crown out to Position 2 allows the wearer to set the time, moving the minute hand which in turn dictates the jumping of the hour hand.



The case provides water resistance up to 30 meters. This level of resistance generally means the watch can withstand splashes or brief immersion in water, such as rain or washing hands, but it is not suitable for swimming or diving. This is typical for watches focused more on complex mechanics and aesthetic design rather than rugged sporting use.



The Franck Muller Curvex CX Color Crazy Hours collection represents a convergence of the brand’s core tenets: mastery of complications, a unique design language centered on the tonneau case, and a fearless approach to color and creativity. The Crazy Hours mechanism remains a fascinating and amusing complication, offering a genuinely different time-telling experience. Paired with the modern Curvex CX case and the vibrant, multi-layered dials, it creates a statement piece that is both technically impressive and visually captivating.



Case: Stainless Steel Curvex CX tonneau shape. Dimensions: Width 36 mm, Length 58.1 mm, Thickness 12.3 mm. Edge-to-edge sapphire crystal. Water resistant up to 30 meters.

Movement: MVD 2800-CHR automatic movement with bidirectional winding. Features 201 components, 42-hour power reserve, frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. Diameter: 26.2 mm, Thickness: 5.2 mm. Functions: Disordered Jumping Hours, Minutes. Extensive decoration including Côtes de Genève, Perlage, Beveling, Sunray brushing.

Dial: Two-layer construction. Upper layer features stamped Clous de Paris pattern with cut-outs for numerals. Lower layer provides bold color (e.g., green, blue). Numerals are hand-applied and arranged non-sequentially. Features a colored inner bezel.

Strap: Alligator strap integrated into the case using two unseen screws. Features meticulous edge stitching. Stainless steel buckle.

Price: Upon Request

Notes: Features the patented Crazy Hours complication where the hour hand jumps to non-sequentially placed numerals. The collection is defined by its vibrant, colorful two-layer dials and the signature Curvex CX case shape.