Franck Muller introduces a captivating fusion of horological mechanics and high jewelry artistry with the Cintrée Curvex Cut Flower collection. This timepiece series seeks to capture the intense, concentrated beauty of a cut flower, translating the delicate forms of petals into a dynamic display on the wrist. Available in either 18k white or rose gold, the watch presents a compelling visual narrative, blending intricate mechanics with the brilliance of meticulously set diamonds. It stands as a testament to the brand's commitment to both technical innovation and expressive design.
The genesis of
Franck Muller as a brand is rooted in a desire to challenge the norms of traditional watchmaking. Established relatively recently compared to centuries-old houses, Franck Muller quickly carved out a distinct identity through audacious designs and a mastery of complex mechanisms. Known affectionately as the "Master of Complications," the brand gained renown for introducing world-firsts, such as the groundbreaking tri-axial tourbillon and the Aeternitas Mega 4, often cited as the world's most complicated wristwatch. This reputation wasn't built solely on complexity, but also on a unique aesthetic vision, often characterized by bold numerals and the signature Cintrée Curvex case shape.
Courtesy of Franck Muller
Central to the brand's capability is its integrated manufacture, known as Watchland. Located in Genthod, near Geneva, this facility brings together the diverse skills required for haute horlogerie under one roof. From initial design sketches and movement engineering to case production, dial creation, assembly, and gem-setting, every step is meticulously managed in-house. This vertical integration allows for exceptional control over quality and fosters a collaborative environment where engineers, watchmakers, dial makers, and jewelers can work together to realize complex and innovative creations like the Cut Flower.
The Cintrée Curvex case is arguably Franck Muller's most recognizable design element, and it provides the foundational silhouette for the Cut Flower watch. Its distinctive tonneau shape is defined by a complex, three-dimensional curvature. Unlike simpler barrel shapes, the Cintrée Curvex curves not only along its length from top to bottom but also across its width and even the crystal itself follows this contour. Achieving this perfectly balanced form, which flows seamlessly around the wrist, requires a sophisticated manufacturing process that blends precision machinery with highly skilled manual finishing. The case's curves provide a unique canvas for decoration and create a dynamic interplay of light and shadow.
Crafted from lustrous 18k rose gold or the cool sheen of 18k white gold, the Cintrée Curvex case of the Cut Flower measures 31 mm in width and 43 mm in length, with a thickness of 8.8 mm. These dimensions strike a balance, offering substantial presence without becoming overwhelming. The entire case undergoes meticulous hand-polishing, enhancing the inherent beauty of the precious metal and accentuating the fluidity of its curves. This polished frame serves as a protective boundary, drawing the eye inward towards the intricate scene unfolding on the dial, while rows of brilliant-cut diamonds line the bezel, adding a frame of fire around the central display.
Within the embrace of the Cintrée Curvex case lies the heart of the watch's visual appeal: the openwork dial. Rather than a solid surface, the dial reveals the intricate architecture of the movement beneath. Gears, meticulously finished bridges, and springs are exposed, creating a captivating mechanical landscape that is constantly in motion when the watch is running. This skeletonization transforms the functional components of the watch into key elements of its aesthetic, inviting the observer to appreciate the complexity and precision involved in keeping time. It forms a dynamic backdrop for the watch's main decorative motif.
Courtesy of Franck Muller
Scattered across this mechanical architecture are the eponymous "Cut Flowers," blooming with remarkable brilliance. These are not merely painted or applied decorations; they are three-dimensional floral forms meticulously crafted from diamonds. The petals, in particular, utilize Franck Muller's specialized Curvex Cut Diamond technique. This innovative gem-setting approach involves shaping each individual diamond to precisely follow the intended curvature of the petal design. The result is a sense of organic softness, depth, and movement that static setting methods cannot achieve. As light interacts with the numerous facets, the diamond flowers seem to sparkle with an inner vitality.
The Curvex Cut® diamond is a proprietary innovation born from the brand's signature case shape. Inspired by the unique silhouette of the Cintrée Curvex, this special diamond cut features 73 precisely polished facets. This complex faceting pattern is designed to maximize the stone's brilliance and fire, reportedly surpassing the radiance achieved by conventional diamond cuts. Its distinctive shape makes it instantly recognizable as a Franck Muller signature. Protected internationally, each Curvex Cut® diamond comes with a GIA (Gemological Institute of America) certificate, assuring its origin and authenticity. This cut represents a significant achievement in diamond craftsmanship and is a cornerstone of Franck Muller's high jewelry watch collections.
Visually, the Cintrée Curvex Cut Flower presents a stunning tableau. The polished gold case, itself glittering with diamonds along the bezel and lugs, frames a dial bursting with color and mechanical intricacy. Diamond flowers, seemingly rendered in gemstones of various hues like ruby red, sapphire blue, emerald green, amethyst purple, and sunny yellow citrine, are intricately arranged across the skeletonized movement bridges. These vibrant floral clusters contrast beautifully with the metallic finish of the underlying gears and plates. The openwork design allows glimpses into the mechanical heart, revealing the careful finishing even on components partially obscured by the floral motifs. Blued steel hands track the hours and minutes, while a small seconds subdial, often indicated by a simpler hand or rotating element, resides at the 6 o'clock position, integrated harmoniously within the overall composition.
Courtesy of Franck Muller
Powering this intricate display is the in-house calibre MVT FM 1540-CS1. This manually wound movement is specifically designed to support the openworked construction, ensuring mechanical integrity while allowing maximum visual access to its components. Composed of 153 individual parts, it demonstrates Franck Muller's capacity for movement development and production. Its dimensions (27.6 mm wide, 32.5 mm long, and 5.1 mm thick) are tailored to fit perfectly within the Cintrée Curvex case. The movement operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), a standard beat rate ensuring reliable timekeeping.
A notable feature of the MVT FM 1540-CS1 is its substantial 4-day power reserve. This extended running time, achieved through the use of two barrels working in series, means the watch can run for approximately 96 hours continuously when fully wound before needing attention. This practical advantage enhances the user experience, reducing the frequency of winding compared to movements with shorter reserves. The manual winding nature connects the wearer directly to the mechanism, requiring interaction via the crown to replenish its energy.
Franck Muller places significant emphasis on the finishing and decoration of its movements, even in skeletonized designs where components are highly visible. The MVT FM 1540-CS1 receives meticulous attention, showcasing traditional haute horlogerie techniques. Beveling, or chamfering, is applied to the edges of the mainplate and bridges, creating polished angles that catch the light. The regulator assembly boasts mirror polishing (poli noir), achieving a flawless, black-like reflection. Circular satin brushing adorns the wheels, drums, and barrel covers, while flank drawing adds texture to the mainplate and bridges. Sinks (countersinks for screws or jewels) are diamond polished for extra sparkle. This extensive hand-decoration underscores the quality of the craftsmanship.
Operating the Cintrée Curvex Cut Flower is straightforward. The crown, located at the traditional 3 o'clock position, features two operational positions. In the first position (pushed in), turning the crown winds the mainsprings, replenishing the 4-day power reserve. Pulling the crown out to the second position engages the time-setting mechanism, allowing the wearer to precisely adjust the hour and minute hands. The small seconds display at 6 o'clock provides a continuous indication that the movement is running.
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The case construction ensures a degree of protection against daily hazards. A scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects the intricate dial and movement, shaped to match the unique curvature of the Cintrée Curvex case. While primarily a high jewelry piece, the watch offers a water resistance rating of up to 30 meters. This doesn't mean it's suitable for swimming or diving, but it does provide protection against accidental splashes, rain, or washing hands, adding a measure of practicality for everyday wear.
Completing the ensemble is a high-quality strap made from alligator leather, known for its durability and distinctive pattern. Franck Muller offers these straps in a variety of colors, allowing the owner to personalize the watch's appearance or choose a hue that perfectly complements the specific gold tone and dial elements. For instance, a crisp white strap pairs naturally with the white gold model, while a vibrant orange strap might accentuate the warmth of the rose gold version.
The strap is secured to the wrist with a buckle crafted from the same 18k rose or white gold as the case. This ensures material consistency and maintains the luxurious feel throughout the watch. The buckle is typically a traditional ardillon (pin) style, designed for ease of use and security, ensuring the precious timepiece remains comfortably fastened. The integration of the strap and buckle design is carefully considered to flow with the curves of the Cintrée Curvex case.
The Cintrée Curvex Cut Flower is a remarkable example of métiers d'art in watchmaking, where different artistic crafts converge. It requires not only the precision of watchmakers assembling the 153 components of the movement but also the artistry of the gem-setter meticulously shaping and setting each diamond, especially the uniquely demanding Curvex Cut® stones used for the petals. The dial maker's skill in creating the openwork structure and the case maker's expertise in achieving the perfect Cintrée Curvex form are equally crucial. It's this synergy of skills, cultivated at Watchland, that brings such a complex piece to life.
Courtesy of Franck Muller
Within the extensive Cintrée Curvex family, the Cut Flower represents a specific high-jewelry interpretation. While sharing the fundamental case shape that defines the collection, its execution – with the skeletonized movement, the unique Curvex Cut® diamonds, and the elaborate floral motif – sets it apart. It demonstrates the versatility of the Cintrée Curvex platform, capable of housing everything from grand complications to elaborate artistic creations like this one.
As is common with high-jewelry timepieces featuring precious metals and significant diamond setting, Franck Muller lists the price as "Upon Request." This indicates a significant investment, reflective of the materials, the complexity of the in-house movement, the intricate gem-setting, and the specialized Curvex Cut® diamonds. Prospective buyers would typically inquire through authorized Franck Muller boutiques or directly with the manufacturer to learn the specific pricing and availability details for either the 18k rose gold or 18k white gold version.
Case: 18k rose or white gold Cintrée Curvex case, hand polished. Dimensions: Width 31 mm, Length 43 mm, Thickness 8.8 mm. Sapphire crystal. Water resistant up to 30 meters.
Movement: In-House MVT FM 1540-CS1, manually wound skeleton movement. Features 153 components, two barrels, 4-day power reserve, 21,600 vibrations per hour. Dimensions: Width 27.6 mm, Length 32.5 mm, Thickness 5.1 mm. Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds at 6 o'clock. Extensive decoration including beveling, mirror polishing, satin brushing, flank drawing, and diamond polishing.
Dial: Openwork design revealing the movement. Adorned with diamond flowers, featuring petals crafted using the specialized Curvex Cut Diamond technique.
Strap: Alligator strap available in various colors. Buckle made from matching 18k rose or white gold.
Price: Upon Request
Reference Number: 2850 S6 SQT CURVEX CUT FLOWER
Notes: Utilizes the unique, internationally protected Curvex Cut® diamond with 73 facets for exceptional brilliance, shaped specifically for the floral design. Combines high-jewelry gem-setting artistry with in-house mechanical watchmaking.