Formex Essence Space Glacier

Formex, an independent Swiss watchmaker operating out of Biel/Bienne, has introduced its latest creation, the Essence Space Glacier. Building on the interest generated by previous meteorite dial watches like the Space Rock and Space Gold, this new model utilizes a unique finishing process to present a distinct ice-blue aesthetic derived from actual meteorite material. The watch is offered in the brand's popular Essence line, available in both 39mm and 43mm case sizes, integrating established Formex technical features with this novel dial execution.



The story of Formex began around the turn of the millennium, officially founded in 2000, though roots trace back to 1999. The name itself, a portmanteau of the French words "FORMe EXtrême" (Extreme Shape), hints at the brand's origins and initial focus. Early inspirations were drawn from the world of high-performance engineering, particularly racing cars and bikes, leading to the development of features designed for durability and comfort under demanding conditions. Formex prides itself on its independence; it remains a family-owned and operated business, a status reinforced in 2016 when Raphael Granito took the helm. Granito's family background, owning both Dexel (a component supplier) and Cadranor (a high-end dial manufacturer), brought significant technical expertise and vertical integration capabilities to the brand, further shaping its path.



Since its inception, Formex has cultivated a reputation for integrating innovative engineering solutions into its timepieces. One of the most notable and enduring examples is the patented Case Suspension System, a feature present since the early days. This system, inspired by vehicle suspension, aims to protect the mechanical movement from shocks while simultaneously enhancing wearer comfort by allowing the case to adapt subtly to wrist movements. This dedication to functional innovation, combined with Swiss manufacturing based in Biel/Bienne, defines the brand's approach to watchmaking.



The Essence collection represents a core offering for Formex, blending the brand's technical DNA with versatile design. The introduction of meteorite dials in the "Space Rock" and "Space Gold" variants proved successful, paving the way for this new iteration. The Essence Space Glacier seeks to explore a different facet of this extraterrestrial material, moving towards cooler tones and utilizing a distinct finishing method to achieve its unique character. It represents an evolution of the meteorite concept within the Formex catalog.



Central to the Space Glacier is its dial, crafted from a slice of the Muonionalusta meteorite. This specific meteorite is remarkable for its age, estimated at over 4.5 billion years, making it one of the oldest known materials on Earth. Its journey began in the asteroid belt before it eventually impacted Earth over a million years ago in a remote region north of the Arctic Circle, now part of northern Scandinavia. Buried in permafrost for millennia, fragments of this iron meteorite hold a tangible connection to the early solar system.



What makes the Muonionalusta meteorite visually distinctive is its Widmanstätten pattern. This intricate, geometric structure of interlocking nickel-iron crystals is the result of incredibly slow cooling over millions of years as the parent asteroid traversed the frigid vacuum of space, where temperatures average around -270°C. This natural formation process means that the pattern is unique to each piece of the meteorite; consequently, no two Space Glacier dials are identical. The pattern is not merely surface decoration but the inherent crystalline structure of the material itself.



Formex developed a specific two-stage process to treat the meteorite dial for the Space Glacier, aiming to enhance rather than obscure its natural features. The first step involves electroplating a bright layer of 98% pure silver directly onto the meteorite slice. This choice of silver was deliberate; initial prototypes using rhodium resulted in a more subdued appearance under the final lacquer. Silver, however, provided the desired level of clarity and contrast, allowing the underlying meteorite structure to shine through more vividly. This builds upon techniques Formex developed for the earlier Space Gold model, which featured electroplated 18k rose gold.



Following the silver plating, the second stage involves the careful hand-application of six distinct layers of zapon teintée. This is a traditional transparent cellulose-based lacquer, but for the Space Glacier, it's infused with a subtle hint of blue pigment. Applying it in multiple ultra-thin layers creates the characteristic translucent ice-blue hue while preserving the visibility and texture of the Widmanstätten pattern beneath. This combination of modern electroplating and traditional lacquering techniques aims to bring out the meteorite's inherent qualities.



Several technical challenges were overcome in the construction of the Space Glacier dial. The meteorite slice itself is remarkably thin, measuring just 0.5mm. Unlike many stone or meteorite dials used in watchmaking, Formex eschews the common practice of gluing the slice to a brass backing plate for stability. Leveraging the meteorite's natural electrical conductivity, the technicians were able to directly solder the dial's feet onto the meteorite base. This allows for a thinner overall construction and a more direct use of the material.



Furthermore, Formex incorporated its signature beveled date window directly into the meteorite dial. Machining this angled aperture into the inherently brittle meteorite material required precision and expertise developed through prototyping and leveraging the company's in-house manufacturing capabilities. The beveled edge is designed to improve legibility and interact with light. Complementing this, the date wheel beneath uses a color tone chosen to harmonize with the ice-blue dial rather than opting for a standard high-contrast black-on-white display, adding a subtle layer of visual integration.



Visually, the dial presents a cool, shimmering surface. The ice-blue tint provided by the lacquer overlay interacts with the bright silver plating and the intricate, metallic lines of the Widmanstätten pattern. Depending on the angle and lighting, the pattern can appear more or less prominent, creating a dynamic look. The applied hour indices and the Formex logo are precisely machined with vertically brushed top surfaces and mirror-polished bevels, catching the light differently. These elements, along with the hands, feature a rhodium finish for clear contrast against the complex dial background.



For low-light visibility, the hands and the deep-filled indices utilize BGW9 Super-LumiNova. This compound emits a blue-green glow when charged, ensuring readability in dim conditions. The overall effect is a dial that is both texturally complex due to the meteorite and visually clean thanks to the applied elements and careful finishing choices.



Powering the Essence Space Glacier is the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, specified in its highest "Chronometer" grade. This Swiss-made caliber is known for its reliability and is widely used in the industry. The Chronometer designation signifies that each movement has been independently certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC). This involves a rigorous 15-day testing procedure in various positions and temperatures to ensure it meets strict standards for accuracy and precision (typically within -4/+6 seconds per day).



Formex utilizes the Chronometer grade because it includes premium components, such as a Glucydur balance wheel. Glucydur is a beryllium bronze alloy known for its hardness, stability across temperatures, resistance to deformation, and non-magnetic and non-corrosive properties, all contributing to consistent timekeeping. The movement features 26 jewels, operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), and provides a power reserve of approximately 41 hours. Formex further enhances the movement visually with decoration and fits it with a custom-built skeletonized rotor, featuring thermally blued screws, visible through the case back. The brand also notes that they perform their own rate tests after assembly to confirm performance relative to COSC standards.



The Space Glacier dial is housed within the Formex Essence case, constructed primarily from 316L stainless steel. This case design is available in two sizes to accommodate different wrist preferences: a 39mm diameter version and a 43mm diameter version. The case architecture incorporates a titanium grade 2 container for the movement, contributing to the overall structure and potentially reducing weight slightly. The design language draws inspiration from performance engineering, aiming for a balance between robustness and refined aesthetics.



A defining feature of the Essence case, and indeed many Formex watches since 1999, is the patented Case Suspension System. This system involves integrating four small springs positioned between the upper bezel/case section and the lower case/lugs section. Functionally, it serves two purposes: shock absorption to help protect the automatic movement from impacts, and enhanced comfort by allowing the case to subtly shift and adapt to the wearer's wrist movements. It's a visible element of the case design, often noticeable via small gaps or visible spring housings near the lugs.



The finishing of the stainless steel case involves a mix of brushed and polished surfaces. On the 43mm model, the primary finish is brushed, accented by hand-finished, mirror-polished bevels along the edges of the case and bezel. This interplay of finishes adds visual depth. The case measures 10.6mm in height and has a lug-to-lug distance of 49mm, with curved lugs designed to help the watch conform to the wrist. The lug width is 22mm.



The 39mm version shares the same design principles but with adjusted proportions. It features a slightly slimmer profile at 10mm in height and a more compact 45mm lug-to-lug distance. The lug width is 20mm. This version features a vertical brushing pattern on the case and bezel, again contrasted with hand-finished polished chamfers. The finishing details are carried over consistently to the optional stainless steel bracelet and the deployant buckle used with straps. For the 39mm model specifically, the hands and applied dial elements receive a gun-metal finish which differs slightly from the rhodium finish on the 43mm, aiming for heightened contrast against the dial in this size format.



Looking at the case, the combination of brushed planes and gleaming polished edges creates a dynamic visual. The lines are clean and somewhat angular, reflecting the "FORMe EXtrême" influence, but refined for everyday wear. The bezel is relatively narrow, allowing the intricate dial to take center stage. The integration of the Case Suspension System adds a technical look, with visible structural elements hinting at the internal mechanism. Protecting the dial is a flat sapphire crystal with an anti-reflection coating applied to minimize glare and maximize clarity.



A transparent case back, also fitted with an anti-reflection treated sapphire crystal, allows viewing of the COSC-certified Sellita SW200-1 movement. This includes the decorated bridges and the custom Formex skeletonized rotor with its blued screws in action. This exhibition back provides insight into the mechanical heart of the watch.



Both the 39mm and 43mm Essence Space Glacier models boast a water resistance rating of 10 bar, equivalent to 100 meters or 330 feet. This level of resistance makes the watch suitable for everyday activities, including surface swimming, though it's not intended as a dedicated dive watch.



Formex offers the Essence Space Glacier with several strap and bracelet choices. Options include Italian calf leather straps, a black rubber strap, or a solid stainless steel bracelet. The leather straps feature curved spring bars, which help the strap integrate more closely with the round shape of the case between the lugs, minimizing unsightly gaps.



A key convenience feature across all options is the patented Quick Release system. This allows the wearer to swap between the bracelet and any compatible strap easily and quickly, without needing any tools. Small tabs on the underside of the spring bars enable simple removal and attachment, offering versatility in styling.



For the leather and rubber strap options, Formex utilizes a deployant clasp made from a proprietary carbon fiber composite material. This clasp is lightweight yet durable and features a patented fine-adjustment system. This allows the wearer to make small, gradual adjustments to the strap length (up to 7mm) on the fly, without removing the watch, accommodating changes in wrist size due to temperature or activity. The operation is designed to be intuitive.



The stainless steel bracelet option is engineered for a precise fit and comfort as well. It features solid links connected by screws (rather than pins) for secure sizing adjustment. The bracelet includes a 1.5x sized half-link to help achieve a more exact fit. Integrated into the bracelet's clasp is a hidden micro-extension system, providing 4mm of quick adjustment, similar in concept to the fine-adjustment on the strap clasp. The bracelet also incorporates the tool-free Quick Release system for easy removal.



The combination of features like the Case Suspension System, the relatively slim case profiles (10mm for the 39mm, 10.6mm for the 43mm), the ergonomically curved lugs, and the highly adjustable clasps on both straps and the bracelet are all intended to maximize wearing comfort for various wrist sizes and conditions throughout the day. The case weights are 65g for the 39mm and 80g for the 43mm (case only), indicating a substantial but not overly heavy presence.



The Formex Essence Space Glacier is positioned with pricing starting at $1,870.00 / €1,880.00 / £1,680.00 / CHF 1,850.00 when configured with a leather or rubber strap. On the stainless steel bracelet, the price is $1,990.00 / €1,990.00 / £1,790.00 / CHF 1,950.00. These prices include international shipping, a 30-day free return policy, and a 3-year international warranty. Formex also notes that taxes and duties are included for shipping addresses within the USA, UK, Australia/NZ, Switzerland, and the European Union, and specifically reassures US customers that current pricing absorbs any potential tariffs.



Availability begins with pre-orders opening on April 24th, 2025, at 9:00 AM Swiss time (UTC+1). The initial production run is limited to 100 pieces for the 39mm size and 100 pieces for the 43mm size. Shipping for these pre-orders is anticipated to commence by the end of April 2025. The watches can be purchased directly through the Formex online boutique.



Case: Stainless steel 316L with titanium grade 2 container; Patented Case Suspension System; 39mm diameter, 10mm height, 45mm lug-to-lug, 20mm lug width, 65g weight OR 43mm diameter, 10.6mm height, 49mm lug-to-lug, 22mm lug width, 80g weight; Sapphire crystal front and back with anti-reflection treatment; Water resistance 10 bar (100 meters / 330 feet).

Movement: Sellita SW200-1 Automatic (Chronometer grade), COSC-certified; 26 jewels, Glucydur balance wheel, 28,800 A/h (4 Hz), 41 hours power reserve; Date display; Custom-built skeleton rotor with thermally blued screws.

Dial: Muonionalusta meteorite; Plated with 98% pure silver, coated with six hand-applied layers of translucent blue zapon lacquer; Unique Widmanstätten pattern visible; Beveled date window machined directly into meteorite; Applied indices and logo; BGW9 Super-LumiNova on hands and indices.

Strap: Italian calf leather or rubber strap with carbon fiber composite deployant clasp featuring patented 7mm gradual fine-adjustment system; OR Stainless steel 316L bracelet with screwed links and buckle featuring patented 4mm micro-extension; All options feature patented Quick Release system for tool-free changes.

Price: $1,870.00 / €1,880.00 / £1,680.00 / CHF 1,850.00 (Leather/Rubber); $1,990.00 / €1,990.00 / £1,790.00 / CHF 1,950.00 (Stainless Steel Bracelet).

Reference Number: 0333.1.6698 (39mm); 0330.1.6698 (43mm).

Notes: Unique ice-blue meteorite dial using silver plating and zapon lacquer, enhancing the natural Widmanstätten pattern; Each dial is unique; Patented Case Suspension System for shock absorption and comfort; Dial feet soldered directly to meteorite, no brass backing; Limited production (100 pieces per size for 2025). Pre-orders open April 24, 2025, shipping end of April 2025.