Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 1RES.3 Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition

Technical Mastery

Words by: Hourstriker Staff
November 14, 2024
Ferdinand Berthoud, resurrected from the annals of watchmaking history by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-president of the Chopard Group, carries forward the legacy of the esteemed 18th-century master horologist, Ferdinand Berthoud. With a dedication to crafting timepieces that embody both technical prowess and aesthetic refinement, Ferdinand Berthoud has once again captured the attention of collectors and connoisseurs with the unveiling of the Chronometre FB 1RES.3 Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition.



This exceptional timepiece, limited to a mere three pieces worldwide, commemorates the 70th anniversary of Sincere Fine Watches, a renowned purveyor of luxury timepieces. The collaboration between these two esteemed houses has resulted in a watch that not only celebrates a milestone but also encapsulates the shared values of horological tradition, innovation, and exquisite craftsmanship.

Courtesy of Ferdinand Berthoud


To fully appreciate the significance of this limited edition, it's essential to delve into the rich history of both Ferdinand Berthoud and Sincere Fine Watches. Ferdinand Berthoud, born in 1727 in the Val-de-Travers region of Switzerland, was a celebrated watchmaker and scientist who made significant contributions to the field of horology. His marine chronometers, renowned for their accuracy and reliability, played a crucial role in maritime navigation during the Age of Exploration. Berthoud's dedication to precision and his pursuit of horological perfection earned him the title of "Horloger Mécanicien du Roi et de la Marine" (Clockmaker-Mechanic to the King and Navy) by King Louis XV of France.



Berthoud's legacy extends beyond his technical achievements. He was also a prolific writer and scholar, publishing numerous treatises on horology and contributing to the advancement of watchmaking knowledge. His most famous work, "Essai sur l'horlogerie," published in 1763, remains a seminal text in the field.



The modern-day Ferdinand Berthoud manufacture, established in Fleurier, Switzerland, draws inspiration from the master's historical creations while embracing contemporary watchmaking techniques. The maison's timepieces are characterized by their distinctive octagonal cases, a nod to Berthoud's marine chronometers, and their intricate movements, which showcase the brand's commitment to technical innovation and traditional craftsmanship.



Sincere Fine Watches, founded in 1954, has established itself as a leading retailer of luxury timepieces in Asia. With a focus on curating a selection of exceptional watches from renowned brands, Sincere has earned a reputation for its discerning taste and commitment to providing its clientele with the finest examples of horological artistry. The company's 70th anniversary marks a significant milestone, representing decades of dedication to the world of fine watchmaking.



The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 1RES.3 Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition serves as a fitting tribute to this milestone. This exclusive timepiece embodies the shared values of both brands, combining Ferdinand Berthoud's technical mastery with Sincere's appreciation for horological excellence.

Courtesy of Ferdinand Berthoud


The watch's 44mm platinum case immediately commands attention with its distinctive octagonal shape, a hallmark of Ferdinand Berthoud's design language. The choice of platinum, a noble metal renowned for its rarity and durability, further enhances the watch's exclusivity and prestige. The satin-brushed finish of the case adds a subtle touch of refinement, while the two sapphire crystal portholes on the case sides offer a glimpse into the intricate movement within.



The dial of the Chronometre FB 1RES.3 Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition is a masterpiece of understated elegance. Crafted from gilded 4N nickel-silver, the dial features a unique satin-brushed salmon hue that exudes warmth and sophistication. The choice of this particular color palette is a departure from the more traditional silver or black dials often seen in haute horlogerie, adding a touch of individuality to the timepiece.



The dial's layout is both technically informative and aesthetically balanced. The hours and minutes are indicated by elegant dagger-shaped hands in 18-carat gold, while a prominent central seconds hand, crafted from bronze and coated in blue CVD, tracks the passage of time with precision. A power reserve indicator, positioned at 9 o'clock, provides a subtle reminder of the watch's impressive 50-hour power reserve.



One of the most captivating aspects of the dial is its openness, which allows for a glimpse into the intricate movement beneath. Three bridges, extending from the mainplate and converging at the center of the dial, create a sense of architectural balance while showcasing the watch's mechanical complexity. The bridges, along with the mainplate, have been skeletonized and decorated, further enhancing the visual appeal of the movement.



The true heart of the Chronometre FB 1RES.3 Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition lies in its exceptional movement, the Calibre FB-RES.FC. This manually wound movement represents the pinnacle of Ferdinand Berthoud's technical expertise, combining a fusee-and-chain transmission with a one-second remontoire. This sophisticated combination of complications ensures a constant force to the escapement, resulting in exceptional accuracy and chronometric performance.



The fusee-and-chain transmission, a historical mechanism dating back to the 16th century, compensates for the diminishing torque of the mainspring as it unwinds. By using a cone-shaped fusee and a miniature chain, the force delivered to the escapement remains constant, ensuring consistent timekeeping throughout the watch's power reserve.



The one-second remontoire further enhances the watch's precision by isolating the escapement from the mainspring's variable force. This mechanism stores a small amount of energy and releases it in one-second intervals, providing a consistent impulse to the balance wheel and resulting in a "deadbeat" or "true-beat" seconds hand.

Courtesy of Ferdinand Berthoud


The Calibre FB-RES.FC is not only a technical marvel but also a work of art. Each component has been meticulously hand-decorated, showcasing the brand's dedication to traditional craftsmanship. The bridges and mainplate feature hand-bevelled and polished angles, requiring over 250 hours of finishing. The intricate details of the movement are visible through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback, inviting the wearer to appreciate the artistry and precision that have gone into its creation.



At the heart of this commemorative edition beats the Calibre FB-RES.FC, a manually wound movement that exemplifies Ferdinand Berthoud's commitment to precision and chronometric performance. This exceptional calibre combines two horological feats: a fusee-and-chain transmission and a one-second remontoire, both of which contribute to the watch's remarkable accuracy and stability.



The fusee-and-chain transmission, a mechanism with historical roots dating back to the 16th century, addresses a fundamental challenge in watchmaking: the diminishing torque of the mainspring as it unwinds. In a traditional watch movement, the force delivered to the escapement, the regulating organ that governs the watch's timekeeping, decreases as the mainspring unwinds. This can lead to variations in the watch's rate, affecting its accuracy.



The fusee-and-chain transmission solves this problem by introducing a cone-shaped pulley, known as the fusee, and a miniature chain that connects the fusee to the mainspring barrel. As the mainspring unwinds, the chain wraps around the fusee, moving from the larger diameter at the base to the smaller diameter at the top. This ingenious mechanism compensates for the decreasing torque of the mainspring, ensuring that a constant force is delivered to the escapement throughout the watch's power reserve.



The one-second remontoire further enhances the watch's precision by isolating the escapement from the mainspring's variable force. This mechanism acts as a secondary power source for the escapement, storing a small amount of energy from the mainspring and releasing it in precise one-second intervals. This ensures that the balance wheel, the heart of the watch's timekeeping, receives a consistent impulse, resulting in exceptional accuracy and a "deadbeat" seconds hand that advances in crisp, one-second jumps.

Courtesy of Ferdinand Berthoud


The Calibre FB-RES.FC is not only a technical marvel but also a testament to the artistry of hand-decoration. Each component of the movement has been meticulously finished by skilled artisans, showcasing the brand's dedication to traditional watchmaking techniques. The bridges and mainplate are adorned with hand-bevelled and polished angles, adding a touch of refinement to the movement's architecture. The intricate details of the movement are visible through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback, inviting the wearer to appreciate the craftsmanship and precision that have gone into its creation.



Encasing this exceptional movement is a 44mm octagonal case crafted from platinum, a noble metal renowned for its rarity, durability, and lustrous sheen. The octagonal shape, a hallmark of Ferdinand Berthoud's design language, is inspired by the marine chronometers created by the master horologist in the 18th century. The choice of platinum further elevates the watch's exclusivity and prestige, befitting its limited-edition status.



The case's satin-brushed finish adds a subtle touch of refinement, contrasting with the polished bezel and lugs. Two sapphire crystal portholes on the case sides offer a glimpse into the intricate movement within, while the case side at 9 o'clock is laser-engraved with the Sincere Platinum Jubilee emblem, commemorating the partnership between these two esteemed houses.



The dial of the Chronometre FB 1RES.3 Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition is a study in understated elegance. Crafted from gilded 4N nickel-silver, the dial features a unique satin-brushed salmon hue that exudes warmth and sophistication. This unusual color choice sets it apart from the more traditional silver or black dials often seen in haute horlogerie, adding a touch of individuality to the timepiece.



The dial's layout is both technically informative and aesthetically balanced. The hours and minutes are indicated by elegant dagger-shaped hands in 18-carat gold, while a prominent central seconds hand, crafted from bronze and coated in blue CVD, tracks the passage of time with precision. A power reserve indicator, positioned at 9 o'clock, provides a subtle reminder of the watch's impressive 50-hour power reserve.



One of the most captivating aspects of the dial is its openness, which allows for a glimpse into the intricate movement beneath. Three bridges, extending from the mainplate and converging at the center of the dial, create a sense of architectural balance while showcasing the watch's mechanical complexity. The bridges, along with the mainplate, have been skeletonized and decorated, further enhancing the visual appeal of the movement.



Completing the watch's refined aesthetic is a beige alligator leather strap with an 18-carat white gold folding clasp and a platinum top cover. The strap's understated color complements the salmon dial and platinum case, creating a harmonious and sophisticated overall look.

Courtesy of Ferdinand Berthoud


The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 1RES.3 Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition is not merely a watch; it's a horological masterpiece that encapsulates the essence of haute horlogerie. Its combination of technical ingenuity, artistic craftsmanship, and historical significance makes it a fitting tribute to the 70th anniversary of Sincere Fine Watches and a testament to the enduring legacy of Ferdinand Berthoud.



With its limited production of only three pieces worldwide, this exclusive timepiece is destined to become a coveted collector's item. Its retail price of SG$452,800 reflects the rarity, complexity, and craftsmanship that define this exceptional watch.
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